mark morris

with adaptor ? do you mean for the dump ect.. cos i need somthing just to bolt straight on, how old is it and what sort of capasity is that as i dont have any thing to support more boost YET, ie stock boost controler, ecm ect.

dosnt any one have a second hand stocko sittin around out there?

Thanks "drkside" they over east arnt they, Im really looking for some thing local as im in a rush cos I need the car going to get to work.

Hello Every one, Just shat me stock turbo and want to buy a replacement. Now I am looking for a turbo to replace ASAP as I need the car on the road. I will go for a good stock one if need be, but I woud like to replace it with pretty much any bolt on steel wheeled replacment to avoid the problem in the future. so if any one has somthing laying arround and want to get rid of it let me know! Even if some one knows of a resonably cheep new upgrade turbo (around 1.5k). Your thoughs would be appreciated. Kind Regards, M.M.

got my parts finally! and that little clip thingy, the part no is 32609-70L20, gonna slpap it together over the week end. thanks for all your help with this one guys, espesially "steveL" mate your a LEGEND!

ordered parts today, none in the contry ex japan 14 days to a month, no complete gear boxes in aus. either.

sounds like a 6 puk is pretty good value, dose some one have a number for adilaide cluch so I can give em a ring? whats a jim berry race clutch?(ie twin or single and whats it worth) regards, Mark

Thanks, ill let ya know how I go on Monday, when I order it.

Ok, for those of you who have read my other post in this section you would know, Im re-installing my gear box in the near future, and as I have it out and my old clutch was slipping under "mild abuse" Im gonna install a new cluch. now the cluch is not that old and still has plenty of meat on it, but it looks to be a ceramic button single plate I think it says 3700 pounds on it( havent got it off yet, will be tonight though). Anyway, I was just wondering what clutch you have put in your gtr, cost and if it performs well? trying to find best value for money but dont want slippage. and I dont really want to go and spend 3k on a friggen exedy twin plate or somthing! oh, and I just want to go down the track and quarter occasinally, no big mods just usual big exauts intake boost 1.2 bar stock turbos ect....

damn! you rite ya have to remove the counter shaft, I think im just gonna replace the fork (like one wise person told me from the start) and give it hell, if it breaks before I have enough money, ill just have to get a larger limit on the old credit card and buy an up dated box, im gonna order the fork on monday if anyone has a part no. handy I would be keen to get that off ya, just that every time I mention a r33gtr to a nissan dealer I just get a funny look and they have no Idea how to sorse part numbers for em! regards, Mark.

damn!, would it be cheeper for me to buy the updated 3rd gear, 4th gear, 3/4 sinchro assy., 3/4 fork, complete bearing kit and w/s manual. Probably as dear and more hassel yea. dont spose you know of some one with a second hand broken g/b or 4th gear that they want to sell? im not to woried about the clip, i dont think it will go any where. also, in your manual dose it say you can remove the 4th gear with out dis-assembling the main shaft? regards, mark

All right I have it striped, and see what you mean about cassette g/box. That sandwedge plate just supports everthing "Awsome" and jees that reverse/5 linkage set up looks over complicated, but can now see why I had trouble getting 5th. It dosent look to bad inside, and yep the 3/4 shift fork is broken in two as suspected, all bearings are fine the small amount of debris on plug was from the 4th gear clutching teeth, as I spose the collar was pushed on crocked after the fork lost one side of it self, it has just slightly chiped the leading edges of the teeth but as they are so small (smallest clutching teeth in the whole box) and I have the thing apart, Im thinking of changing forth gear (just wondering if it can be removed with out striping the main shaft, and if it is one piece with the imput shaft). and if it is removed dose it have timed when re-installed the second gear has a small chip on the out side edge of one tooth which I will just clean up with a burr bit. on the 3/4 sinchro one of the clips is broken. its one of the three little clips like on all the sinchros (3 per sinchro that is) where they are visable if you have the collar centralised you can see two tags poking out uderneth the collar on each side, well just one of the clips only has 3tags insted 4(2 either side). It dosentg look like it affects operation in any way but would like to change it any way. what I really need help with is part numbers and where I could get: *w/s manual *3/4 shift fork *4th gear/imput shaft? *little tin clip for sinchro *input shaft seal housing gasket the other gaskets and input seal I will make or get from C.B.C. thanks for all the help! regards, Mark

Ok, I have got the thing out, finally damn it was hard to get the bell housing past the fire wall, "I think it might have been the crappy non adjustable cradle I made for my trollie jack" think i will make a different one for putting it back in. "SteveL" do you have a manual for one of these with torque settings bearing adjustments ect.. or know where I might get one? "Quote(SteveL)" "Once you get the gb out, it's just a matter of dropping the bell-housing to get to the shift forks - no special tools required to replace those. If it were me I'd be looking to just replace the broken fork and be done with it, unless there's other obvious damage to gears, bearings, etc. - especially if the geabox was working OK up 'til the time the fork broke. 3/4 shift fork is around the $120 mark. A set of bearings is about $250, then there's gaskets, seals and sealants." By just dropping the bell housing wont I have to re-set bearing preloads ect. um.. will i be able to inspect all gears ect. its just that i found a bit of furr on one of the magnets, would it be best to stand it on its end before removing the bell housing so counter shaft dose not come out of mesh with main shaft? sorry for all of the dumb questions, just dont know what to expect, ive only done twin and tripple counter shaft, non sincro boxes before!. (If you know anything to look out for or to mark before removing please tell me!) anyway im gonna attack it after work this arvo.

Ha! just found a screw in the inside wall of one of my brand new 275/35/x 18s. Just not my day man!

hello fellow west ausys, Im just wondering, dose anyone in perth re-build gtr boxes, just wondering cos mines claped, broke a shift fork.

Ok, I droped the oil and found nothing on the plug! Upon further inspection(poking around inside the drain hole, I found that there is half of a complete shif fork in the bottem of the box! (sounds like you were right on the money "SteveL" SHEEEEET! So I have started to pull it out. Im doing it on jack stands, its a big sucker and think im gonna have to make up a cradle at work to hook on the trolly jack, rather than man handeling it! When I get it out, I dont think ill have a go at striping it myself (no speacial tools, manual ect...) what do you guys think is the best way to go about it just find a local transmition reconditioner and get the fork and what ever else is broken replaced(or complete over haul, ie. dose the main shaft, c/shaft ect have to be removed destroying bearings ect..) Or, just buy a second hand box or new box? "ferni" is that 3.3k for a complete box if so is their any one that could give me the correct part no. for a r33 box? or possibly r34 6spd hmmm. would it fit? could I afford it? dose the r34 have the same diff ratios? I hope the answer to the last 3 questions is NO!! thanks in advance for your advice.

hello all, I just broke my poor r33 gtr gear box :goddam: . I was just going from 3rd to 4th (accelerating hard) and it just was'nt there, so I went back to third and it also was'nt their (just free wheeling like in nutral) so I stoped. I worked out that I could use 1st, 2nd and 5th to limp it home on the way home I could only get 5th some of the time the rest of the time it free wheeled like 3rd and 4th!! (By the way, there was no noises, vibrations ect. coming from the box at any time.) Now i'm thinking it the linkages or selectors, but not to sure about gtr boxes, most of the work ive done g'boxes is trucks ie, roadrangers 18, spicers 21, ect.. I havent investigated yet, too hot to touch. just wondering if you can get to selectors with out removing the box ect.. as i havent a car hoist, i might just drop the oil anyway to make sure there is no gear food on the plug. :Paranoid: any advice would be great! kind regards, mark

hello all, i have a mate going to tokyo for work,(lucky barstard!!) and while hes there i thought he could get me a p.f.c. with hand controler for my 33gtr and hopfully save some money. Just wondering if any one knows where to get one of these thats close to the city(dont want to put him out too much). And possibly if some one knows what the part number for the right e.c.m. so he dosnt get sold the wrong one or somthing. :Bang: cheers, mark

heres that spec sheet.

Hello every one, just a question on racing fuel, i got hold of some elf turbo max fuel and have a r33 gtr (rb26) stock computer just an e.b.c and was thinking of using it at the drags so i can run a little higher boost safely, any one know this product? and if i can just use it straight up, or if i need to change a/f mixes, timing, dyno ect.. also, what sort of boost would be safe (keeping in mind i have stock ceramic turbines). i found a spec sheet on the net says it was primaraly developed for super charged rally cars, any advice would be great(lil bit frightened!) :Paranoid: .

well, im with just car, am 22, have a r33 gtr and i pay $3700, ouch, unless it goes down quite a bit i aint gonna re-new it next year, mybe 3rd party.

Rest in peace to the victims. And to all affected, I am deeply sory for your losses.

hello every one, if you saw my last thread in here you would know stuffed up and drilled a curb (not funny). any way, as a result i need a set of rims, im lookin to use the same size tyres so looking for a set of 18"x9.5"s to suit r33gtr, (new, or as new). so far the best i can get is those r.o.h. modular rims wich are made to order, and i wouldnt see them for at least 6 weeks, and i cant go through the christmas break with out crusin in the line. so if any one can help me on this, they would be a fuggen champ

gwpo21, yeah they should all be those slanted ones, ya can just drive up,....................................then again maybe i would of hit that power pole insted!

gav, nope i got 33 last i looked, it looked motorised not hydrolic, well didnt see any hydrolic lines going to it, could be mistaken though, new to hicas and didnt look that hard either. bit of a contridiction i know