endless

Bend valves back with multigrips...??!!! f**k i love these forums lol

Was removing the rest of the HICAS crap from my car last week and noticed a plug underneath the plenum right next to the oil filter & IACV hanging loose. It's a small single wire plug, grey with a red stripe. Everything seems to be in order though? I'm thinking maybe a leftover from the stock boost solenoid. Can anyone tell me where it should go?

I would be much much more concerned about the motors health rather than the turbos! Crazy

Well i'll be damned.. pulled the bov line off while the car was on & no vacuum! Hooked up a vac source and went for spin, boost shooting up like it should. Strangest thing is that i literally have not touched these lines since i bought the car. Cheers guys

Thanks for the replies. Yes the pre-load was checked, not cracking open until about 11/12psi which i double checked was correct with a Garrett rebuilder here. I did find a small leak in the exact spot you mentioned - this has since been fixed but only made a difference to cold start RPM (was a very small leak) Will double check bov line but i'm sure other spare lines around the area are either blocked / removed. I'm running a PFC. It shows 20 degrees on my H/C but the timing on the balancer reads 15 degrees.

I think setting the timing to 15 degrees then going for a blat would be a bad idea seeing as it has been tuned out 5 degrees, also with the turbo response like shit (which has now been solved) think i'll just take it in for tune to be safe.

Well checked the timing ..& it's out 5 degrees.

I do remember having a look before installing and they were sealed flush. I'd imagine it would be quite obvious to the eye if one wasn't sealed correctly? I'll try to check the timing tonight as i think i can get a steady idle from cold start & go from there. I appreciate the help guys.

Please re-read what i have done already. I went to the trouble of swapping on BRAND NEW garret 1 bar actuators. I have the same problem!!!!!!

Drives just as well as with it connected. I am starting to wonder if my base timing is out. I did ask the tuner to set it originally, obviously he should of before the tune... but i am running out of things to try here as you can see. I swapped my engine covers when i swapped the turbos and was unable to set the timing right as it would hunt at idle post injector install. In fact i tried last night and it is still hunting? Setting the pre-load up on the gates made a HUGE difference to low end, but it was tuned without this.. and possibly with timing out also. Hence suspecting tune.

Well update time... STILL no good! I have installed brand new 1 bar actuators and i am still having the same problem. Really thought it was solved as the actuator arms i pulled off the turbos were much much easier to pull on than the new ones. In 4th at ~4k it will only make 0.6 - 0.7 bar... if i rev it more it continues to rise very slowly before i back off. So... - I have disconnected the actuator lines and had a run = exactly the same. So it is certainly NOT the ebc. - Oil pissed out of both lines when the feeds were taken off to change the actuators so turbos are getting oil. - There are NO leaks in the cooler piping & definitely no blockage/rags in there. Basically there is nothing left but the tune..? I was under the impression i should be able to make the boost spike using the previous method regardless as its mechanical? Could incorrectly set up nismo AFM's cause this somehow? Injectors were also upgraded pre-tune. Starting to really regret not just slapping a single on!

I've always heard that term but never needed to put it into practice until now. How do i wire them shut tighter than the tension the actuator is already holding the flap closed?

Thanks for the pic. Well certainly near the same amount of adjustment left on yours as i have. The springs in my actuators must just be weak. Will look at replacing them, although i may look into shortening the arms for a little more adjustment.

Having a problem with the actuators on my car, would probably be upgrading to HKS actuators (onto R34 N1's) what i am wondering is can they be swapped without removing the turbos from the motor? From what i can see it looks like once the bolts are unscrewed a bit they will foul on the compressor outlet / water & oil lines (front turbo) unless i'm mistaken and the bolts are really really short.

Looking through a few other dyno results, although they are done in 4th looks like i should be able to make 18-20psi by ~4300rpm. If i was able to pre-load the actuators more i think this would help. What is stopping me from shortening the arms slightly for more adjustment?

That is very innovative scotty! Not sure if i would trust it as a long term solution though.. Need to go check 4th to compare now i'll have a look at a few more dyno results with these. MrStabby by any chance have you got a photo of how your actuators are adjusted? I am also running an old greddy profec b.

Cheers for the advice. I set the pre-load higher however i was only able to equally set the actuators to 11psi. Reason being is the sleeve fitting that screws on ran out of adjustment, even though there is more thread left on the arm! Took it for a spin and it definitely felt more punchy like it should. Did a run in 3rd and boost was going a little higher now 0.8bar (about 12psi) i turned the boost up and was heading for 1bar @ 5k before i backed off. Correct me if i am wrong but i should have more boost at this point? I suppose this tells me it is certainly the actuators / pre-load adjustment. Does this mean the actuators need replacing? I want to run 1bar low boost, hmmm perhaps i could shorten the actuator arms to use up more of the thread?

BUMP

I didn't mention but i've since had a decat put in - same result. While we had it on the dyno the EBC vac line was disconnected completely so the gates would keep shut, resulted in same problem! You can see why i am lost on this now...

I meant if you were to sit the actuator arm over the mount so it slips on and off, use the length of the hole that the mount goes through worth of tension - if that makes sense. Doesn't hit 10 until about 5k, which is ridiculous.

Well i've since rechecked all my cooler piping and replaced any clamps that looked a bit worn - this made little to no difference. Bought a compressor & checked the wastegate line pressure just then. Both don't crack open until 0.6 - 0.7bar (9psi) Really at a loss at what to do now?!

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Bump

No used HPI bellmouth dumps, wastegate flaps move freely. I did use the actuators that i got with the N1's.. will have to test them. I watched the rear turbo actuator arm whilst doing a dyno run and it didn't move at all - front one obviously a bit harder to see!