endless

Decided to download FAST myself and get it! Just in case anyone would like to replace in the future as the tensioner & idler bearing bolts / studs have been known to fail - lunching your entire motor.. Idler bolt - 08041-07010 Tensioner stud - 13073-V5001

????

Anyone know? Need it pretty urgently as currently got front of motor off!!

I have been looking at an older thread as i am about to be doing this myself, but no one in the thread states what the actual torque should be set to.. Nissan have 2 different values stated in the workshop manual it seems! Thread is here : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...an-t226987.html Surely a few people around that know for sure? Cheers

Have done a search but couldn't find anything.. Just doing waterpump change on my RB26 so going to do the timing belt, tensioner and idler bearings and stud / bolts at the same time. I have the part number for the tensioner stud but not the idler bolt. Can someone help me out? Cheers

Need part number for 1990 RB26 non n1 waterpump.. Searched but i have found like 3 - 4 different part numbers! I think 21010-58S25- may be correct can someone confirm for me?

Nah on a 1JZ

Yeah i have to comply to emissions due to big single turbo conversion.

Your biggest problem will be if you are asked to do an emissions test, engineer will guide you with the rest of the stuff once you have chosen one & payed a fee. I'm in this shit atm, such a PITA!!

I'm needing to change the inner driveshaft boot on the drivers side in my 32.. Just wondering what the process is in removal of parts etc, can you take the shaft out of the diff and slip it on that way, or does the hub / cv and all the rest need to come off then it slid down the shaft? Wasn't able to find any info / service manual guide for this!!

As per title chasing part number for an R32 GTS-4 front drivers side driveshaft boot. I assume genuine is the only option here? PS - have searched and couldn't find sheeeeiit

Thanks for that mate.. i would say your definately right about the longer bolts & them probably coming as a kit originally. I did source some longer bolts & got the rears installed now, very niaaace!!

I did manage to get the fronts in by slightly bending that metal tab out a few mm with an adjustable spanner - all good. Upon installing the rears i have found the standard bolt that connects the bottom isn't long enough for thread to poke out the other side. Anyone installed these into a 32 GTR/GTS4 before and had these issues? I'm almost certain they are meant for another nissan unless the GTS4 chassis is slightly different to the GTR..

Received set of JIC coilovers today i scored off yahoo japan, tried to install them tonight & found out doesn't look like they are to suit a GTS4/GTR/Z32 at all as they were advertised. They are JUST fouling on the metal tab that comes off the suspension arm which the swaybar attaches to.. It's actually so close that i'm even tempted to get the hammer out and give it a mm or 2 of love - but i'm guessing that's enough of a sign they aren't to suit the 32. Does anyone know what nissan they suit as i now need to sell them!

Well some news that one of the members on Antilag posted up this evening. Good news..

Thanks for the help guys.. Drained transfer case on weekend and refilled, also took the drain off the gearbox to see if any fluid was left in there and luckily there still was about half a liter in there as when i originally drained the box it was only jacked up on one side. Stoked as my 3rd to 4th crunching is almost completely gone! Only crunches if it's hard shifted to 4th above 5.5k RPM, may try some Redline LW shockproof down the track.

Had a bit of test on the weekend and mine is making 10 pound by 4k and creeps to 12 pound a few hundred RPM afterward maybe 4.2k or thereabouts. I'm using one of those GFB bleed valves. Sounds like i may have to find a stock RB20 actuator and swap it over?

Leave screamer pipes for actual external gates! Nothing worse than hearing an internally gated car with a screamer pipe going absolutely nowhere on boost but making a whole lot of noise..

There's a massive discussion on antilag on this exact subject, a couple of people on there that work/worked at Kosteckis and have commented also.. http://www.antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25851 Username & Password "viewonly" if you don't have an account. I am going over the pits soon with a twin > single turbo conversion and will see how i go. But from what i have heard first hand it's very much so under the discretion of the inspector as it is ultimately their decision.

I'm only running 12 pound atm on a S2 25 turbo, will let you know when it hits full boost when i get it going on the weekend again. I think it may be similar to yours though and i am running a bleed valve.

Does the transfer case have a drain plug like the gearbox does? I recall seeing something similar to the drain on the box on the back side of the transfer case where the front driveshaft goes in - is that where you fill it? Or should i just fill through the shifter..

Will the box be alright? Didn't do too much driving on it & it certainly didn't feel abnormal at all, or make any strange noises surprisingly?

Drained it and put in about 4 liters But i have just realized i am a cock-end as i filled it through the shifter.

Last weekend i decided to change the fluid on the 32 to see if it solved my 3rd > 4th crunching issue.. Filled the box up with some castrol VMX80 as recommended, took it out for a spin and ended up smelling gearbox fluid. Returned home and pulled the shifter assembly off and found the shifter boot was cracked - has now been replaced. However the box still seems to be leaking after changing the fluid, the bottom of the car is covered in oil. Going to have a look this weekend but thought i'd get some ideas on where i should be looking. Also - what is the fluid capacity for a GTS4 gearbox? Hopefully i've just overfilled it or something!

Absolute legend! Cheers mate.. Forgot to mention it was for a '32