GILTY

Guys I changed my clutch on my 32 2 weeks ago. The flywheel must be machined if it is 2nd hand as this is 1 of the parts that grips onto the clutch pucks. I made the mistake of not knowing that the standard 32 flywheel that I purchased from www.justjap.com.au had to be machined, it then took 1.5 hours and $44 inc GST to get the thing machined. I had a heavily (very expensive) flywheel in the car. I now have spares (Exceedy twin spring button clutch and expensive lightened flywheel as spares.) Make sure the clutch you are putting in can be re-pucked as it will save you a lot next time you change it, and lets face it...it wont be that far down the track (I know mine wont) Also, make sure the clutch comes with the 'throw-out' bearing replacement. If you have any further questions, PM me and I will be more than glad to help, I also have pics of the chewed out clutch and my lightened flywheel...

Buy a Button Clutch from Just Jap www.justjap.com.au Cost is $550 and comes with 5-Puck Button Clutch Plate, clamped up pressure plate. Good for my 32 with 200 Ponies at the rears. You will need to either get another flywheel (or machine your current one too- cost os between $40 to $50 and will take about an hour). I payed $805 including freight from Sydney to Brisbane for the clutch and 2nd Hand Flywheel ($550 clutch, $225 Fly Wheel & $30 freight) I am lucky enought to have some great mates from Cyber Motorsports Inc who helped me swap the units over, takes a good weekend as long as you have everything ready to go (I had to get the flywheel machined which took up some extra time. You also need at least 2-3 people to help take out the box etc. If you have to pay for it look at somewhere around $400-$500 in labour on top of the parts. PM me if you have any other questions and I will give you my number (I learn't so much about my car doing the change with my mates, it was great)

If I am not mistakn that is a Cusco, 'cos it is the same colour, and of the 2 x 3 puck version. It has plenty of meat left...at least 7 or 8 7K RPM launches (burnout)

I love the sound of my RB20DET, I have a 3 inch from the dump to the tip, (except a 2.5 inch CAT which it was complied with). And a MAGNAFLOW 3" Stainless Muffler on the DRIFT angle. The sound in this guise was unmistakeably RB Series, yet I wanted a little more of the signature sound. I therefore had the muffler before the diff deleted and a 3" piece of pipe put in its' place on Tuesday. The resulting sound is amazing, albeit a little hard on the ears in the 1700-2500RPM range. VERY BASSY and somewhat annoying. Any sugestions as to what I can do about this, all I want to do is quieten it about 10% between 1700 and 2500RPM, I love it otherwise. I think I will give it a week and see if it settles down and then change it if I have to. Thanks for any sugestions! :burnout: PS Should have seen my drift down the coast this morning, SWEET;)

Yes, I had the same problem over the weekend when I changed my clutch, we used a Air Compressed Rattle Gun and we had to keep upping the pressure to get them off. You also definately need an impact socket as we destroyed a normal socket (CRACKED)

Saw one of those on a 33 down the Gold Coast last week, all I can say is: WANK

how in gods name did those guys not hit anything in those 5 vids??? I am amazed! Crazy Mothers!

Guys, it is just the engine warming up, I have exactly the same on my 32 in the morning. Just don't rev over 2500 for the first 3-5 mins of warm up and you're away! Boosting when cold is murder on your engine/turbo, like when you put hot water into a frezing glass or vise versa, CRACKS!!! And you don't want to crack your exhaust housing or any other part of your engine...

I think NOT, but if it is fitted, I'll have 3!

anythings possible for the right price!!! I have a lowered 32 and my shocks in the rear are rooted!!!!! Back Left especially! Need to change asap, all the fluid has sprayed out everywhere! Very uncomfortable to drive. Save yourself some heart-ache and do the best suss work you can, it is worth it!

Just an observation, but someone who would like to cut the springs is hardly going to be able to afford coil-overs... Don't cut the springs, just save up for some new ones, maybe $600 odd for all 4 corners. Good luck

Look at this thread...explains exactly what you are talking about! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...s=&threadid=408

If you could supply that cooler for the prices you are talking, you would sell more that you could stock, seriously!!! Sell volume direct to the public and you will win. Wholesale is not the ket as prices then are dictated by how much profit the assholes want to make, therefore inflating prices to levels we currently have (NOT GOOD!) What do you think?

I drive my car way too hard, but I love it so f**k it!

I will find out all details soon and post the here...looks the goods tho! I want a cooler so bad but other things keep coming up (tyres/clutch/rear shocks etc etc)

YBSLO4...sounds great to me champ...I would be happy paying upto around $700 but that would be an upper limit. I have friends that have bought the core off EBAY for $870. It is quite large and very nice, the pipework was knocked up for $200 in parts. Labour was a carton (can't get cheaper than that!!!) It is not just the cooler cost, it is the pipeing as well. As a side you may consider a cost effective option for mounting these coolers. As I will thoroughly enjoy the process of hands on install of the cooler into my car. As well as the fact I will learn more about my car. What do you think? I will send pics of this cooler tomorrow from the office.

Yes, interested, cost vs quality is the question. I would like to see decent sized FMICs available for my R32 @ around the $400-$600 mark. I am not looking for a HUGE core, just one that dosen't look gay behind my Front Bar, whilst also providing a worthwhile performance gain over stock. I am looking to upgrade this in the next 2 months...

I have a HKS Filter and Blitz BOV...they are a great match. Sorry, but I love the spooling up woosh of the flter, it sounds like a turbo should, and the BOV is bloddy loud, scaring unsuspecting people on the street all the time.

I have the same st. wheel mount Carbon gauge pod with a GREDDY Boost PRESS Gauge on my R32, I also have another GREDDY Oil PRESS gauge mounted on the top of the dash to the left of the little buttons controlling the Radio (Which don't work). And an Autometer Monster Tacho on the other side of my dash mounted on my A-Pillar. When I got defected for ride height about 6 months ago, the cop looked through my car under the engine bay, remarked that the 'only' mods were the BOV and FILTER, then closed the bonnet. He then went and had a look inside the car and remarked at the gauges and said 'OK', that's all-get your ride height fixed and there will be no more problems. Interestingly enough, I am endevouring to relocate my 2 PRESS Gauges to my A-Pillar soon and mount the Monster Tach rice style in the middle of my dash, like the AUTOSTYLE R32 GTR (DEXTER) and their other TOP SECRET R33 GTR

Wait until you can insure a turbo as you will be well dissapointed with a NA R32 + you'll get wasted and raced by every turbo car around! That will make you feel inadequate, possibly leading to life long implications... Seriously, look for something else or wait! Sorry for the bad news. Maybe an old ET Turbo to thrash around might be the Key...look at FUL11, mid 12 sec 1/4 miles...not bad for 5K buy and about 5k spend. Put in a good alarm and don't worry about full comp insurance. I have contemplated buying an old ET and spending 5k on it to cut it up but I like the style and chick pulling ability of the Line + the luxury fittings...

Hey 51IDE... Welcome, I used to see you in your Red Supra...the Skyline will certainly do those plates a little more justice! Nice to see you over to the right team! When I see you, I will say Hi, I think you have seen my car (If you were paying attention) C-Ya Round Clinton.

I have exactly the same problem with my Steering Wheel, Apparently we can get them recovered for about $50 at any Auto-Retrimmer. It is a pain in the ass to change the steering wheel because of the HICAS sensor, therefore retrimming the factory wheel is the best option. (And it is a pretty good wheel anyway) I like your style, and for a stop-gap measure, just take the offending wing off and plug up the holes with wine red electrical tape. My boot still has white tape over the 4 holes, I just never seem to get around to getting them fixed. Have clutch to fix next weekend, and that is about 1K, so holes have to wait again!

Nice work! Very impressed with your efforts... I aspire to do what both you and Keir do, albiet on a much lesser budget, HOWEVER we all have the same passion, racing and Skylines. You are an inspiration to all us on Skylines Australia. Good luck with your ever dominating efforts on Street Rubber! Are you using Nitto 555's (I am guessing so)

That is a bit harsh and blown out of proportion. What I would call "Not spot on" Have you had a bad experience with cars/accidents or something because I sence a bit of hostility? I am an enthusiast and a rev-head...generalise me if you must. I go to Willowbank and drag my Skyline because I like to do it. I don't however go out and drive over the speed limit because : "I am out hunting for 2 entire families to kill" Again...calm down and re-read what you have been typing. 1)I do not condone any form of dangerous driving on public roads that puts innocent peoples lives at risk. 2)Every day you drive your car you put innocent lives at risk. Shit happens and that is life. Driving responsibly will always safe-guard you from accidents but will never fully protect you. It is all a part of growing up, and mistakes are such for a reason, they teach lessons.

1) Sorry but in my opinion that wing has to go, go nude... 2) Your steering wheel is probably peeling like mine, but that wheel cover is not the answer (SORRY)