krush

Hello all, HKS BOV - $25 Cleaning out the garage, I had an older style HKS blow off valve. It was originally on my r32 when i first imported it but had taken it all as i didn't want the police attention. It has been sitting around for a number of years, was working at the time but after 5+ years of sitting around you may want to pull it apart and be sure its still functioning right. TurboTech T piece - Practically new - $20 Fitted it to the car cause I was too eager, took it off again as I was only running a normal rb20 turbo on the engine and this thing has it up around 14psi with little difference, so I took it back off so not to ruin the turbo. Old Holden 6 turbo manifolds - $250 I know it's not skyline, but you never know who knows who that is looking for something like these. Bought them probably 10yrs ago when i had a Holden Torana, but never fitted them. I think they are from a Strata kit, but can't be certain. Both in decent condition. Couldn't really say anything about them, it's been that long. They were to go on my Red186 engine at the time, if that helps. All items in Logan City, Queensland. Will post at buyers expense. Might wanna think twice about those manifolds though, they're quite heavy! Thanks! Shaun [email protected] 0431 805 464

Hello, I've decided it's time to sell my 1989 R32 GTS4t. I imported it myself back around late 2004, have been the only owner since. It has been sitting around for most of the time I have had it, as 12 months after I imported it I got a motorcycle and that was pretty much the end of the car's use. It had been deregistered for a number of years, until recently I had it registered for only six months while my motorcycle had been stolen and recently recovered, now it is' deregistered again. It's quite a 'normal' car, it had been my daily driver so ride height and exhaust loudness is all normal. At the end of it's use before I got the motorcycle, it had gone over the Pits and passed. I hadn't modified it since. the good, - turbo back exhaust (downpipe and cat was bought new off this forum long time ago) - exceedy heavy duty clutch (put in at ABS slacks creek, again a 'deal' from a fella on this forum that worked there..) - GTR front suspension, have the rears to go in also - interior is complete, even with skyline floor mats. although, time has taken its toll on it here and there - sun roof - mechanicals work though needs a helping push to get it moved. switch could do with a clean i think too. - generic ebay brand FMIC - comes with RCA and power wiring for subs in the boot (parcel shelf speakers in the pics have been taken out also). has my kenwood headunit in it still. - greedy boost gauge - some turbo time. all hooked up expect the bit that keeps the car running. has voltmeter, set minutes and an auto count depending how long you're revving it high - comes bits of body kit, m-type side skirts, some rear pods, gtr front bar (though damaged and bad paint), and gtr rear spoiler to go with it - Nizmo five spoke 16" mags, not perfect but I'm sure someone could make them look nicer. - I do have an RB25 turbo that can go with the car. the bad, - paint is fading and peeling in places. - has random scratches and paint blemishes here and there - it's got some hail damage, its not real noticeable but there are dents here and there if you look at the right angles. - rust coming through in rear wheel arches and sun roof area. - no sun visors inside, they broke off and never got replaced - grey bonnet - i tapped someone at a set of lights, i took off when the arrow went green but my light was still red, smashed my front bar and bet the original black bonnet. no other damage resulted. - speedo is not working anymore. It was up until my last stint with it. I know this makes the kilometers seem a bit dodgy, but come on, it's an import, who knows how many km's it's really done anyhow. - proof of a service history is sketchy, I've got a folder of random papers from when I originally imported it, but I did all the oil, fluids and sparkplug changes myself. Receipts have since gone here and there as I've moved houses over the last few years. - reverse lights switch on gearbox has died. Had it replaced when the h/d clutch went in, but it died again. I've since hooked it upto a rocker switch that sits just near the gearstick boot. - I think one of the coil's is slowly dying. Car runs fine, but when boosted at higher rev's is starts to miss fire. I just drive casually so it's never caused me hassle. the really bad, there is rust coming through the passenger foot well. when I last got this registered the inspector said he was on the fence about passing it but as I was keeping it and my situation of having my bike stolen and my pleading, he let me have it. This would need to be replaced in order to have it pass a safety cert again. Whether this is simply welding in a new plate or what, I don't know. I'm sure someone else would. Anyhow, any questions can be emailed, PM'ed, responded to here, and I'll get back to you. Alternatively, a phone call on the number below will be quickest. Could probably do a search for my posts on this forum and find more info on it's life, I've been posting here since before I bought it. no rego $5300 ono Car is located Logan City, Queensland. Shaun [email protected] 0431 805 464

im a bike commuter rider for three years. its true theyre dangerous but like the dude above said you can be cautious and stay away from danger best you can and you live to see another day. start riding like everythings gonna be fine and you start putting yourself at risk. its the same old arguments from both sides of the fence. people will tell you how dangerous they are and others with tell you how to make it safer for yourself. statistics dont lie and at the end of the day you might just be another. you know whats more crazy? scooters. those 50cc ones. they are down right ridiculous in my opinion. theyre too slow to get out of trouble and too slow to be on any real road. as for what bike to get, my first was a vfr400. roughly same size as the cbr250's. it felt alright for me an im 6'2, though i think i have more torso size then dangly arms and legs get something cheaper rather then a brand new 600/1000 straight away as youll soon learn if its really for you or not, and if it is youre likely to have a prang of some sort in the first year. not to be a personal insult, but if you drive like a tool in the car then a bike is probably going to be a step in the right direction to being dead. that or youre realise it is and sell it. s.

how are high mounts forcing more air exactly? how can they dispute that? fwiw, i had my 32 over the pits in qld recently and they had me 'reinforce' the hole i cut for the intercooler piping. noone knew exactly what reinforcing was though, and let me tell you i saw ever mechanic and panel beater around here. its only the splash guard i cut for the normal intercooler kits, and everyone i saw said it was a joke for something non-structural. it really gets on my nerves the things they come up with.

I don't get what you're saying Jenkies? Factory specs are quite restrictive and don't allow the turbo to perform as it's meant to. I dont see what's wrong witg quicker spool up and better performance? If anything you DO want a turbo back, as it will be less restrictive, the turbo will spool up quicker and possilbe gain a psi or two due to the turbo being able to spin more freely. Think like, the turbo can't get in more then it can put out, so if the exhaust is restrictive and the turbo can't spin those gases out, its only going to spin as fast as your exhaust will allow, so it won't be working as best it can. shaun.

Hi all, I'm just curions if there's a known boss kit out there for r32's (owning a 32 gts4t myself) that will make the steering wheel come out that little bit further? say two inch more? I'd like to keep the stock steering wheel as, well i just got defected once and knowing the new laws in QLD I'm not taking any chances with ANYthing. Next is to get a H pattern gearnob Even with the factory adjustability all the way out, theres only a one inch gap from the wheel and my thigh, not to mention my arms dont seem to be so long and stretched out a little anyway. Thanks, Shaun.

you mean it like leaves a puddle under the car like its coming from the centre of the bay? could be a pin prick hole in one of your hoses, i had a similar thing. would only leak once the car was warmed up, building enough pressure to make the coolent seep outta the tiny hole. was one of the heater hoses located under the plenum. yours could be the same, maybe only the hole is smaller then mine was and needing more pressure to make it leak? turn the car off, the coolent sits in the still hot engine block with no circulation, boils that little bit more making the extra bit of pressure, leaks, then cools down sucking coolent back in from your overflow bottle/coolent tank and youre none the wiser.. just a thought anyway.. :S i could run my car without the radiator cap screwed on tightly, allowing no pressure to build up and it wouldnt leak the coolent out the small hole. not recommened for driving but only just a test on the spot. maybe you could do something similar? shaun.

hey all, my reverse lights switch is on the brink of dying, to the point it hardly works ever. just curious what the legislation on reverse light operation is, and if i could hook up my own manual in cabin switch for it? i did this when i first imported the car with a button switch and even told the complience dude and he said it was ok, but they never tested it down at qld transport so dunno theyre opinion on it. rang them and they said as a mechanic, thought id ask here first. the first button switch was taken out when i got a new clutch and asked them to fix it, the wired it back up with the same dying reverse switch and it worked for a month, but has lost all credability as working. thanks, shaun.

id just go the cbr dude. theyre so common theres parts everywhere, well known, and dont go too bad for 250. wouldnt say the quickest of smaller bikes, but learner legal and still more fun then a car like the dude up above said, spend money on gear, cos its only a matter of time til you move onto bigger things in which case spending too much on a smaller cc bike is pointless. not only that, itll save your ass. look on bike forums and a lot of people will say the old two types of bikers those that have gone down and those that will. myself and many friends are on 600's and we've all had a prang for some reason, and seriously we're all pretty sensible with our lives... my own prang from a fella not looking when pulling out. i had a vfr400 for my first bike, learnt lots but was over it after 3months. in qld you can get open bike if you have open car licence which i had. if 6months is all your state needs for learner restrictions id say youre gonna be getting something bigger at that time, if you havent gone down or not scared after you have. bottom line, dont waste money on a small bike youre just gonna get rid of. anything cheap enough will do for the time being.

dont forget peak rwkw (or 4wkw) isnt that only thing. his gts4 (i own one too) weighs a bit more and despite having peak power, midrange and lowdown torque is gonna be needed moreso.. who's gonna be up in the 5000rpm+ range their whole trip..

dude my 32 has more induction sound then i can poke a stick at. its almost annoying. even light throttle so its only boosting like 1psi will have a slight sucking sound more then able to be heard in the cabin. nothing out the ordinary either, normal pod/cooler/exhaust mods.

i think rally rego would be ok, as its not on the road and neednt be, well safety etc for general road use, only rally satey ie. roll cages seat belt harrnesses and such as opposed to rda approved bonnets and ride heights or full interiors and such. road and track/rally rego's are different in a respect. hope that helps, s.

"ahah wananbe gtr???" nice contribution to the thread. imho gtr bars suit the 32 best. all other aftermarket ones look bulky or dont suit the soft box like lines the 32 has.

thanks for the responses guys. adam, yeh the price is a bit lower then yours. im under the impression most gtr guys take them out to put in new stuff and have noone but us gts4 guys to hand me down to im just after some not so shagged suspension to replace my sloppy stuff. im not much of a boy racer, just dont like being throw about on bumpy roads and ive never heard that that heller. good luck with the koni's though shaun.

hey all, ive got a gts4 which seems the suspension has gotten quite sloppy over the last year. all stock stuff im guessing as it was never great and defo not coil overs or anything. theres a fella on here selling some stock gtr springs/shocks which he says is in good condition which im hoping to purchase this weekend. now ive read how itll fit from the suspension layout, but im wondering the type of specs the gtr would have over the gts4? after searching and reading a lot, i only really worked out that a higher spring rate is stiffer, and too stiff is bad for the road, as my car is a daily driver. if the gtr stuff going to be stiffer? lower? better in general? i guess anything would be better then my sloppy stuff at the moment.. cheers, shaun.

this is like the mint where its just ghey guessing until the times up

hey all recently a coolant hose somewhere under the rb20 plenum has got brittle and split and loses its coolant once its warmed up and under pressure. i can only assume its a pipe at least as i cant see it. SO, i have plans to take the plenum off and get at it easily, prob replace all the rubber pipes just to be safe it wont happen again. so has anyone done this before, and have any pointers on possible problems? anyone got pics with the plenum off so i could see what pipes are where? its in a gts4 and its packed engine bay sucks for room to move. i guess id just like any tips on doing it before i go pulling it all apart. i did search, found a post with a guy installing a greddy copy onto his rb25 which was really helpfully detailed, but i suspect the pipes may be different to the rb20. will defo be using it as a rough guide though, thanks to the guy for the write up thanks, s.

im with owgasm.. looks the same as the old one. just, very angular. i reckon itd have looked better with only a few of the new angles, could do without the ones of the bonnet come to mind.

i think hes talking about the gts4 being heavy for a small car. the stageas are 4wd drive i think? the rb25 in them would have the front drive shafts/sump that would suit the gts4s. an rb25 from an r33 would need a modified sump and bits to go with it. that what i *think* at least. i own a gts4, also. good car. great in the wet. sure not the quickest, but like the dude up top said its a compromise. even then, its fine to drive daily and unless youre really looking to have a race every set of lights does it really matter being that much slower? i like my 4wd.

"dont bother with a cbr250rr u will get bored in like 3 - 4 days trust me step it straight up to a gsxr750 or 1000 there pretty cool bikes" ya kidding me? sure they arent super quick but to say a 750/1000 is a joke. cbr will be fine to start with, get used to the two wheels and possbily sell it again for what you bought it for providing you dont drop it. get a new bike and drop it, hello paying out the bum for parts.

cool thanks for the replies, those pics will no doubt come in handy, v.much appreciated. time for some yoga *grumble grumble* cheers, shaun.

hey all, clutch pedal gave way the other day while driving. ive taken out most the dash and figure that its broken on the weld (as i found has happened with other people here after a good old search), and just wondering how many bolts there are to taking it out. ive looked through the service manual thing, the diagrams arent that great nor is my view up behind there. its gotta be one of the most aweful positions to be laying in to get a good enough view up under there. can anyone thats done it lend a few suggestions? thanks very much, shaun.

hello all, i searched, but couldnt come up with the goods a few weeks ago my car sprung a leak in one of the rubber pipes that is up behind the engine. under pressure, this little split in the hose would squirt out all my water. the day it happened, the temperature guage got pretty damn high, dare i say to the top i waited and waited for the engine to cool down before putting more water in the radiator, leaving the cap not quite locked (so no pressure would build) and limped it home. so to now, ive replaced that hose, filled the water, started the car, upto temperature, give it a rev, check for leaks, and everything seems ok. took it for a run, temp gauge looks normal, no hissing, no steam, no drips or leaks on the ground after parking it.. everything seems good. took it for a drive to my friends house, and back home (20-30mins of driving total) and when i checked the radiator, it was lookin empty. let it cool down for awhile, then topped it up, took about 750ml outta my bottle. drove again, checked again, same deal. checked the dipstick, the oil looks fine and oil like (not creamy like oil+water gets), and i see no condensation or water drips outta my exhaust. where is it going? a friend of mine says he had the same problem, and undid this bolt valve thing on the top of his inlet manifold, it made a sucking sound, then he put it back in and all was good. does anyone have any ideas, or know what this valve hes talkin about is? thanks muchly shaun.

are they a straight bolt in kinda mod? and how much do a set go for? i gotta sunroof too and am quite tall

"mounted slighty forward to accomodate the etra two cylidners"? i dont know the actual dimensions for the gen3 or rb25, but im quite certain the v8 (having two banks for four cylinders) would be slightly *shorter* then an rb25, having one long six cylinder bank. i would have thought they could sit it slightly *back* rather then forward.