baron_von_bootsector

Damn it looks nice, can't wait to see it all put together!

The 3.4 is damn nice but a lot of work when going straight from a 2.6 and trying to keep everything looking semi stock... To give you an idea of the effort involved with the 1000HP figure - mine pumps out an honest 450kw (just over 600HP) at the treads at 7000 revs. I have a similar fuel system to the one you are planning (A walbro 450 and 2x 044's under the car with a surge tank), ID1300 injectors, Autronic ECU and a twin GTX2867's. I could go to 8000 revs but really given how it drives now the extra stress on the bottom end just isn't worth the bragging rights. The torque is huge, the power is nice and linear as it comes on steam and the coppermix twin clutch makes it incredibly nice to drive. It sounds like you are in the same sort of "rather drive it than dyno it" frame of mind as me, good luck with the mods and let us know how you get on with it

I don't think you will find anybody (well anyone sane...) who would leap to defend the Windows 8 UI changes and the way they were unleashed! You are completely correct - the cause of the problem was Microsoft trying for a unified OS that worked across multiple platforms (they saw what Apple was doing with IOS and the iPad / iPhone) and wanted to get onboard. The biggest issue they had was trying to impose such a radical UI change very suddenly on a large population of users who had grown very used to small incremental and easy to get used to changes to the same UI they had experienced since windows 95. Users almost universally hated the dramatic and unexpected change when they purchased new machines and let Microsoft know it in no uncertain terms. The whole new coke like misdirection conspiracy theory with the change glosses over the simplest explanation - that Microsoft just screwed up and massively misunderstood what their users wanted. I'd love to believe that Redmond did it deliberately but given the way they were shocked by the reaction and the rush to push Windows 8.1 / 10 out it was not their plan!

My favorite was running across a Sun server running Solaris and hosting critical services at a federal department in 2012 - the best bit was that the box had an uptime of over 2700 days when it was shut down for the last time. They don't build them like that anymore!

You aren't alone on that - it may be all off those things for a lot of people but its also a massive security issue (nothing but absolutely critical fixes), not supported on any recent hardware and also starting to be unsupported by major software vendors too. Unfortunately its had its time in the sun and Microsoft has made it very clear that Windows 10 is the option it prefers for desktops moving forward. Implementing it on new hardware now is a *very* painful experience for both user and admin. If Windows 10 is unappealing, you should see what they are doing with new versions of Windows Server - its beginning to look more than a little like a Unix OS (not that I am complaining but a lot of the "more grizzled" windows admins i know have!).

Just saw the original request come up on the activity page, thought I could inject something useful as I work in the sector.

They have fixed that mostly - I know one of the guys that led the charge when they were still trying to cram XP onto brand new MacBook airs! XP was still a big step from the OS2 warp based ATM's that were still getting around until a few years ago

And here I was expecting someone to suggest Windows ME or Vista!

Careful with installing Win7 on modern hardware as MS have pushed hard to get the big manufacturers to stop providing Windows 7 compatible drivers for brand new hardware, if the box comes with Windows 10 you might be better off trying to enable compatibility mode for the app you are worried about.

A bigger cam will definitely be required with the numbers you are seeking and the extra capacity / stroke of the 30 bottom end does address some of the low down shortcomings (debatable depending on which part of the tach you like to live in!) of throwing big cams on an RB26. I run 278 cams on my 3.4 and find they are grumpy sounding but still reasonable to drive gently due to the bigger bottom end. My compression is ~9.5:1 so its in the same ballpark as your setup but I am using twins. You are going to need significant revs, big cams, headwork etc on that motor to get anywhere near what you are seeking so the daily drive ability is really going to come down to your definition of what is fun / acceptable to drive in traffic.

Nismo Coppermix - checkout the driveline forum and you can see that these clutches are well loved by more than a few members here. Well worth the $$$, feel like a factory model to use and are proven to hold up to plenty of power and abuse.

You definitely wont regret going for the Coppermix twin, hands down the nicest high performance clutch I have ever used - factory like to drive, holds power easily, minimal noise and just keeps taking abuse.

They should bolt up to a stock set of manifolds by the look of them but I would really suggest grabbing the 6boost manifolds with them if you are thinking about getting them. I have a very similar setup in my car and ended up scouring around for almost 12 months to find a decent set of twin manifolds but ended up with a set of really nice cast ones from Artec. 6 boost were definitely on the list quality wise but Kyle was not making anything for twins on an RB off the shelf at the time.

Best bet is to go over your requirements / wants with whoever you are looking to get it tuned by, this will identify what features you need and that dictates what ECU's would suit the build. As Dose highlights above - the big advantages of a higher end ECU is in things like additional sensor inputs and outputs, traction control, antilag, effective knock sensor capability etc but you might not need or want any of those.

FWIW - I haven't used them on an M35 but I have used the H4 Philips for low and high beam on my daily and was happy with the results and its a similar reflector type to an M35 - there is a nice review with comparison pics on http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-lighting-electrical/603282-h4-philips-x-treme-ultinon-led-headlight-bulb-review.html and http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-tacoma-2nd-generation-2005-2015/1254065-my-opinion-philips-x-treme-ultinon-led-h4-headlight-bulb-review.html I have found in the past from experience with a few kits that cheap LED kits give great light but its reliability where they fall over with a number of the kits I have played with either dying quickly or the lights working on a intermittent basis (although not nearly as bad as arc discharge ones). Your mileage may vary of course!

Most of the fleabay H4 LED (and more than a few of the arc discharge) retrofit kits are pretty much as good as their price would lead you to believe - terrible... There are a few LED ones that I have seen for other vehicles that are actually decent performers but these are built using the same gear that you see used on a lot of high end Porsche / Audi vehicles and have the price tag to match. My suggestion would be to go for one of the quality brands - The Philips Ultinon ones appear to be be decent but as you have seen the from the wildly varying prices and claimed specifications that it is definitely a minefield and completely unregulated.

Both of those Koyo rads will work well, the copper one will be more expensive and heavier compared to the lighter and cheaper aluminium model but both will get the job done effectively and are quality units (I have a Koyorad aluminium model and love it). Copper is more resistant in terms of galvanic corrosion but they should both see similar service life if you replace your coolant / corrosion inhibitor regularly. Copper is a much better conductor of heat (aluminium is only about ~59% as capable as copper in terms of thermal conduction) but on a radiator the total surface area exposed to airflow has a much larger impact on the ability of the radiator to transfer heat to the environment vs the material used. This combined with the much lower prices / weight of aluminium and improved welding processes have made thicker / larger aluminium radiators the norm in the vehicle industry where copper radiators used to dominate. This is the same reason why you will almost never see a copper intercooler as the additional weight and expense does not make a worthwhile performance difference.. Look at high end PC heatsink designs these days and they are almost universally using copper slugs or heatpipes to transfer heat from the processor to a large collection of aluminium fins for the same reasons. In terms of an intercooler go with a "street" (~70mm) model from a decent Australian manufacturer such as Plazmaman or PWR - both offer world class gear at prices much better than the top overseas brands.

According to the doco - green should be earth, blue is meant to be ignition signal (+12v when ignition on) and red(/white) should be +12v. Try testing it out on the bench by hooking those 3 up to a small 12v supply or battery and see if it powers up - if so you are good to go as you only really need those 3, the solenoid and the manifold pressure line.

The turbo is a bit archaic but it could be that you just are not able to get enough load to get the turbo up on steam? I completely agree with Allan on putting a built auto and transbrake into it - would make launches so much easier / consistent and will put a stop to your exploding gearbox dramas. Going with a more modern turbo and potentially changing cams / timing would likely help if you want to remain torque-converterless. Anti-lag would help the situation but you are right it can be hard on the hot side depending on how you do it - what kind of ECU are you using?

The 260 is different to the GTR compared from the Y pipe back so a kit for the R33 will need some (a lot of) work to fit. In all honesty you are best off heading to an exhaust shop and getting a system built to suit the vehicle - that way you get to choose the size, materials, mufflers and the cat you want for a much better fit to your needs (and cheaper) than a decent brand off the shelf system.

On an NA motor designed for 95/98 it'd be a bit of a waste as you'd be increasing your fuel consumption and cost (in comparison to running 98) for zero / absolutely minimal benefit from the extra octane. There are a few people around that have done this kind of thing on the turbo models but on a stock NA the drawbacks and cost significantly outweigh any benefit that you could expect. On the other hand if you are planning on fitting forced induction or going for big compression at some stage it would be a well worthwhile bit of work!

Yes they certainly are able to be done in 4WD - RIPS had a nice setup a while ago in their MEGAWOT vehicle running into the 7's and there are a few companies who make RB AWD adaptors for the powerglides locally (KEAS and a few others). I only suggest the powerglide as they are fairly cheap to build tough (in comparison to other options) and help with getting the car off the line a lot smoother and more reliably than most people can manage with a manual.

The PPG gearsets are pretty good but rely on the stock housing / shaft sizes and positioning - ultimately this is what limits the strength of the box as material improvements can only take things so far. The feedback from PPG owners is normally positive (and it should be given the price!) but given what you are saying the OS-88 might be the way to go as a "do it right the first time" approach. if you are looking to shave even more time off your timeslips while assuring that you aren't spraying gearbox parts everywhere (and I know I am going to be accused of heresy for this..) a built powerglide and suitable converter might potentially be more suitable for your current & future requirements in the end and for less / similar money as trying to put together a bombproof 5speed or going OS-88.

Nice buy, it looks to be in great condition and you will never risk losing it in a carpark with that colour! For your brakes I would suggest getting the fluid replaced and bled as a start, its a great idea regardless of the problem, while they are at it they can look into the issue and see if you need to get the calipers rebuilt. Getting the calipers cleaned and rebuilt with new seals is not a huge expense at any decent brake shop - hopefully the pistons are in good nick otherwise its an awesome excuse to throw a bigger set of brakes on it

^^This You will get a far better result getting it built by an exhaust shop to suit your needs and the car vs an off the shelf brand name one for about the same price.