baron_von_bootsector

Can absolutely be done without too many problems, I run 450KW through a 100 cell cat at the moment (twin 3" dumps into a 100 cell cat on a 3.5" system with mufflers) without any issues. A 4"+ front pipe from the dump to your cat would be a great idea and definitely recommended with the system necking down to a 3.5" system after the cat. Doing it in 4" the whole way would flow better but will be significantly more expensive (decent quality, non "Alibaba special" mufflers cost $$$), possibly be a bit of a pain to package under the car and can be difficult to get to non cop baiting noise levels.

They are available and in stock with Nissan Australia at the moment for the low, low price of ~$430 a side. Getting a set in decent condition second hand is getting near impossible now due to most cracking on removal and being very difficult to ship. Any decent detail service / paint restorer should be able to remove the glue using a gentle abrasive and polisher if you are looking to get rid of it.

A decent in tank pump (something like a Walbro 450 would be a good choice) and 725cc-750cc injectors would fine or 1000cc if you want plenty of headroom and the ability to go for E85 at a later date.

People will need a little more info to be able to help out: How much boost are you planning on running / what is your power target? Are you planning on running E85? Are you planning on an external inline pump / pot or just an in tank pump upgrade?

Just getting the car back on the road after a long period of rebuild and decided to replace the craptastic factory gauges in my 260RS with something a little more accurate and informative... Left to right: oil pressure & oil temp, boost & fuel pressure, voltage & water temp

Best to decide where you are going to get it tuned and what you are going to be doing to the car before you buy an ECU as this will decide what ECU you should be getting. No point getting it now and finding that you need something different later on.

Checkout www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/neo_manual.pdf I have never used one personally but I am well aware of how it works. The sort of modifications that you are looking at is well beyond what this would be able to handle as it is really only meant to be able to manage fueling on a relatively stock engine and not deal with massively different injectors and a much larger turbo etc. With what you are doing the nistune is an absolute minimum and really the engine management path you take is sort of dictated by who you are getting to tune it - you will get a better result using what they suggest / prefer rather than one they dont know / can't tune properly.

The AFC is a nice bit of kit when turning up the boost a little on a standard car but at ~450hp at the wheels you are going to be asking for a lot more than what the AFC is capable of safely / sanely doing. The plug in will give you much more flexibility and safety in the tune, not to mention being far easier to tune and a better base to build modifications off.

Trex is on the money, read up on some of the other build threads or dyno results threads under "Forced Induction Performance" to see what others have done and it will prove invaluable to see what needs to be done and gives you an idea of the sort of costs / parts involved to get to that power level. At an absolute minimum you'd be looking at: $800 to $1.5k+ for a turbo (depending on what you want + extra if you decide to go for a better manifold) $1250+ for a plug in like an adaptronic / nistune / link etc plug in $600 for decent injectors $200 for a better fuel pump at a minimum $500-$1.5K for misc crap for making the above work correctly or fix other problems you come across while doing it $1k - $2k for a clutch to handle the increased output (if required) $??? for any workshop work to fit the above (if not swinging spanners yourself) $??? for tuning - highly dependent on who you go with

Post up what you'd like to achieve (and the budget!) and we can offer some advice. Try to set out what you want to do with the car and set a reasonable / specific goal for what you want to achieve - what you need to do / buy then flows from that.

Most of the reason would be that Plazmaman (and PWR as well) are some of the best of the "locally" made ones. They perform very well, have top quality finish, are light and fit without having to hack the car up or perform dodgy piping if you purchase the normal thickness models. They perform as well or better than while costing similar to a unit from one of the top Japanese brands but you get the ease of purchasing plus warranty locally from a well known company.

You have to remember that they are more than happy to recommend & sell you a set of wet race tyres as well. I am guessing that you are correct - they probably are trying to cover their butts from people who want to use them on the street too as they really are more than a bit of of a handful in the wet on craptastic public roads due to water pooling and massive quantities of contaminants (oil, diesel etc) that come up during wet weather. This combined with the random on road behaviour of overly caffeinated, distracted people participating in food/coffee/cigarette/phone juggling contests makes for some white knuckle moments when running track focused rubber. Its sort of the same experience you'd have with really, really nasty cheap tyres but is made much more surprising as you get used to having amazing grip normally!

Have seen a few people doing it over in the states with Z32 and S series cars (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151930459693296.1073741843.296402898295) but do be careful with the adapters on GTR's as the front hub design is different to the rear wheel only models. On the rears you will probably be looking at having to get a custom set of adapters made as its not a common swap. I have no idea what the piston sizes are on those calipers, you will need to find out in order to figure out the piston area so you can have an idea of just how different both sets are to your current setup and it will dictate if you need a new master cylinder / balance adjustment. An excellent calculator for this can be found at http://brakepower.com/help_abc_27_PAC_t.htm On the the subject of rotors you might be able to get away with the 354.6mm ones off a 350Z track model as they are direct bolt on (DBA42314S for example) or even better getting a custom set of hats made up for a two piece style rotor and then you can pretty much pick and choose your best size. It costs a bit to get a set of hats turned up but the weight difference is huge and the cost of the friction areas only is normally less than decent performance 1 piece rotors.

They are road (barely!) legal when brand new but will very quickly get down to the wear indicators on the tread. If they are brand new you shouldn't get much grief over them but if they do raise eyebrows then expect to have the rest of the car gone over with a fine tooth comb... Nitto "strongly recommends" that these are a dry weather competition tyre only, they are street legal in the sense that they are designed for being able to drive to the track without having to swap wheels / rubber but can be like iceskates in the wet. If you are worried about the inspection then a cheap set of Bridgestone RE003's (they are on sale - 4 for the price of 3 currently) or similar would be a great idea and you can get the NT01's swapped back on when you want the better grip after the inspection or when heading to the track.

I can completely recommend a Nismo Coppermix twin - after getting one fitted to my car when I did the engine replacement I can safely say that I am extremely happy with it as is everyone else who has tried out the car. Drives and feels like a stock clutch (infinitely better than the Xtreme clutch that was in it when I got it) but handles a whole lot more torque, the only real disadvantage it has compared its competition is the Nismo tax ($$$).

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Primo (slightly modified to fit huge board) Motherboard: Lenovo D30 dual socket LGA2011 board (brand new, surplus spare) CPU & CPU Cooler: 2x Xeon E5-2667v2 (8 cores, 3.3Ghz), 2x Coolermaster Nepton 140XL RAM: 16x 8GB low profile 1866 ECC DDR3 modules Monitor: Dell WFP 30” Graphics Card: Powercolor R390x (temporary stand in) HDD(s): 250gb Samsung 850 EVO mSATA (system), 256GB Samsung 950 Pro (data) OS Used: Debian / Windows 10 / vSphere Peripherals: Logitech G15, Logitech G500, Razer Megalodon In the spare time while I was getting my car back on the road… Built using some surplus server gear I got for bargain prices, needed a decent WS for VM work and thought I’d kill two birds with one stone. Case required some alterations to fit the board but it turned up a treat.

Might be a little late to this but if you are looking at the premium end of the spectrum check out http://www.glossgarage.com.au/ Michael knows his stuff and has an almost frightening focus on getting things perfect, he took 3 weeks (it was a side project) to restore the finish on my 260RS and the job was nothing less than spectacular. https://www.facebook.com/glossgarage.com.au/posts/825072117539572?

^^ Whoops - just checked and its actually 18psi

Piggaz - Its heading in for the final tune in just over over week but on the run in tune (standard 98, wastegate pressure (~15psi) and zip in terms of timing) it knocks out 342KW at the treads @ 4600rpm. Will post up a full build post when its tuned as my previous build post got rejected / deleted...

I had something similar done with my -5's by Procharge and they turned out pretty well, its a very cost effective path forward if you want to stick with stock looking low mount twins. They upgraded the compressor housing to a .60 (from .42) and put in GTX2687 wheels, while porting out the turbine housing to get the best possible flow as they are a little small for what a lot of people try to push through them. I have been very happy with the results so far but due to the displacement bump on my car (2.6 -> 3.4) its not possible to do a fair back to back...

I found the response to be OK considering the weight of the car and that there is only 2.6L before you start to build boost. The GT2860R-5's are probably about as big as you can go twin wise on a 2.6 and still considered easily drivable, they used to start to boost at about 3300rpm and were well on song by 4200rpm. The only real issue is that the Stag weighs in at around 1700Kg so it is carrying a good 220kg more than an R33 so it does blunt the low down performance a little. I think that going to a 3.4L bottom end will give it a much more perky manner and mean that I wont have to spin it stupidly hard to make power.

Thanks! No pics on the PC at the moment but I see if I can dig some up for you. I will be posting up a more detailed overview of the build but the gist of the rather long story: The car had some significant work done to it by the previous owner: GT2860R-5 turbos Walbro intank pump, 2x Bosch 044's and swirlpot in an enclosure in the boot 1000cc injectors and dual entry rail Forged pistons, prepped factory rods, ACL bearings etc EMS8860 ECU and eBoost2 running on E85 The car was in getting the ECU swapped out for something that was a little easier to get tuned and played with in Canberra as the EMS unit had been starting to play up and refuse to run or even connect to a computer.The replacement Adaptronic unit was installed and working flawlessly with a full flex fuel setup when the tuner noticed something wrong with the oil pressure on the final run and then a knock from the big end This resulted in the motor being pulled out and ended up with a handful of toasted bearings and a roughed up crank - looks like I am a another victim of the infamous N1 oil pump... At the moment I am gathering up the various bits and pieces for an overhaul, seeing that the Stag is a heavy beast I was leaning towards getting a spool 3.4L stroker bottom end.

Hello Everyone Been a long time lurker on the forums for a while now and decided it was time to join up! I have owned a 1997 Stagea 260RS for about 3 years now (actually found it for sale on this board,,,),I live in the ACT and have run into a few of the SAU regulars around the place from time to time. Keen to meet some people and get some advice on a rebuild that I have going on at the moment.