datmoo

411 is cheaper.

27th for me with the 13th being the long weekend.

This is not a bad run: https://www.google.com.au/maps/dir/Tooborac,+Victoria/Gisborne+VIC+3437/@-37.2662297,144.5553533,11z/data=!4m19!4m18!1m10!1m1!1s0x6ad79ececdb4a429:0x40579a430a08500!2m2!1d144.7988571!2d-37.0441747!3m4!1m2!1d144.6097789!2d-37.3734435!3s0x6ad71cd54d7c1a31:0x130579a40ed87c80!1m5!1m1!1s0x6ad6e4e9033be931:0x5045675218ccdd0!2m2!1d144.5918839!2d-37.4880339!3e0 With a nice pub and brewery at the end. http://tooborachotel.com.au/

I'd be happy with that coming from Bendigo.

I think they are R34 but non turbo.

Yep.

Stagea. Now with 10% more awesome!

Did some calculations when I was looking at tyres when going from my stock 17's to 18's. Total diameters: 235/45 17" 537.55mm ⍉ 225/45 18" 558.45mm ⍉ 235/40 18" 551.20mm ⍉ 235/45 18" 562.95mm ⍉ 235/50 18" 574.70mm ⍉ 245/40 18" 555.20mm ⍉ 245/45 18" 567.45mm ⍉ Went with 235/45, sits nice and flush on 8.5" wide rims and makes the speedo more accurate.

Not too difficult. Probably the most time consuming thing was working out where to mount things, how to route the hoses/cables and getting them through the firewall grommet. Got mine through www.kadespeedandmarine.com.au in QLD, you'll be able to save on postage when you move.

Spot on Nathan. Took it from number 1 injector (easiest to get to) red/black wire. Set the SCG-1 to 10230 RPM scale and 2 pulses per rotation even though the Innovate software says 3 pulses for 6 cylinder. Shows 630 RPM at idle and stays very close to the factory tach needle. Shift light all good. Still playing around with all the fine adjustments; duty, gain, spring pressure and boost cut by pressure and AFR. Easy enough to adjust with the gauge but also downloaded the programming and logging software and had a play around using the laptop. Nice bit of kit, think I'll get another one for my Datto and get rid of the boost T.

Here's some install pics of my Innovate SCG-1 EBC and wideband. MAP sensor and manifold hose I used: Boost control solenoid, hose routing and O2 cable: I did already have a bung in my front pipe but ended up using the longer one in the kit. A bit further away from the turbo, gets the sensor sitting flush with the inside of the exhaust to prolong life and angled up a bit for clearance (looks tight put just the angle of the photo). Still getting used to my lift TIG, not pretty but no leaks. Shows the wire I tapped for the headlight dimming function (white dot). Looking good at idle but haven't taken it for a spin yet. Going to hit up Scotty for the wastegate actuator mod now that I can see what she's doing............

Not sure what happened to your pic in my reply, looks like a glitch in the matrix.

Are all the shocks dodgy? If not then just replace the unroadworthy ones with "good" second hand ones and then put the MCAs on after you get roadworthy.

That's a familiar looking colour....

^Nice job! Looks awesome! Was it an exhaust shop or the same place that did your manual conversion?

Just fitted an Innovate SCG-1 and wanting to know the best place to pick up a tach signal for the shift light/rpm log function. Waiting to hear back from Innovate regarding what voltage/pulse/frequency it needs to see. Here's the spiel from the manual: Optionally, the PURPLE wire can be connected to a tach signal to log engine RPM and to use the shift light function. A tach signal can be acquired from the negative lead of a coil, ECU, negative lead of an injector, or directly from the ignition box if running a multi-spark (i.e. MSD 6AL). Note: A tach signal can not be acquired from the negative lead of the coil on vehicles running CDI ignitions. For these applications use the negative lead of an injector or a tach adapter (if available for your model ignition). I had to use an Autometer tach adapter in my SR 1600 to get the VDO tach to work but my Gizzmo shift light worked fine off the ECU tach wire. I did find pin 34 on the M35 ECU is "Engine Revolution Output Signal (to Hicas C/U)".

VK56DETT AWD M35? (with MCA coilovers )

Gives more accurate toe adjustment rather than slotting the subframe. Thought this was pretty cool if you want to keep the separate spring and shock.

G35 and 350z with purdy adjustable arms and a Datto 1600 all deleting the factory spring to run a true coilover and they all run more of a shock tower rather than having the mount incorporated into the base of the c pillar. Just sayin'. I wish I had found these damper adjuster extensions (so you don't need to remove the trim) earlier in my research so I could have got away with a smaller access hole in the already weak, flimsy mount.

Fair enough. Only time will tell. Just trying to support local and hoping that people don't confuse opinion with fact when deciding on their purchase. All good.

"I don't believe" = fact? Interesting. Show me the evidence.

Been trying to find all these failed shock mounts on MCA equiped M35's. No luck yet. I did find this though: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440310-coilover-issue/Both ARX, one with stock suspension, one with aftermarket, both look like the bolts pulled out rather than a problem with compression forces. One due to incorrect adjustment of the shock and one due to loose mounting nuts by the sound of it. You can also see the damper adjuster in one pic exposed to the elements and covered in road grime. If you pull away the interior trim you will see a very strong, reinforced, well engineered C pillar which by chance is what the shock mount forces are applied to. I'll go with an expert, say like someone who builds suspension for a living rather than speculation of what might happen. I'm sure Mr Nissan knew what he was doing but if they got it right from the factory then why would we bother modifying our cars at all. On another note you can specify what springs you want at no extra cost with MCA and don't have to change the large spring again which is a PITA. If you are happy with your BCs, awesome but don't bash the MCAs just because you reckon.

Did an oil and filter change and fitted NGK Iridium LFR7AIX plugs. Played around with the MCA blue heights and damper settings (to get 100mm clearance from exhaust and front crossmember). Also drilled 30mm access holes to adjust damper settings from the top. Started modding the cargo barrier by cutting out the lower section. And just a random pic of a nice clean Crown wagon I saw at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410876-m35-coolant-bypass-kit/

^Next on my to do list.