MacGuyver

Nintendo will never lose their grip on the hand held market! Plus the DS is backwards compatible with GBA games. That's gotta be a pretty good incentive for GBA owners to upgrade. Plus Nintendo is INNOVATIVE, the DS could really change the way or create new ways for games to be played.... as soon as developers figure out how to take advantage of the features and provided they put them to good use. And Resident Evil being the only mature game on the Cube? What about Eternal Darkness, Metroid Prime 1 & 2, Splinter Cell, Ghost Recon, Soul Calibur 2... and yeah Resident Evil 4 will rock!

Can you damage anything by having the light come on and doing nothing about it? My light also comes on but only if I'm on a long drive. I've been told that it's a sensor issue, but as I don't have any steering dramas when it comes on and rarely go on long drives I haven't bothered fixing it. "Gonna get paaaaaaaaanched!"

I'd also like to see a return of the S2000, DC2 and DC5 Integra (and not just in the American version!) And I personally wouldn't care if they decide to 'lose' all those SUV's and the American rice culture. Don't like my chances tho.

I reckon the DS will kick bottom as well. I heard the PSP has a very limited battery life compared to the DS having 10 hours. I also wouldn't be surprised if Microsoft decide to release a handheld system of their own in the future if Sony can do well with the PSP.

Problem solvered! One of the intercooler hoses popped off! Easy fix, now I can stop crying thinking the turbo had gone!

Hey does anyone know what this problem sounds like? While I was driving I put my foot down so to speak to over take someone. When I did this, there was kind of a pop sound and I lost all power to my steering, my brakes and the engine just died! No other warning lights came on when this happened apart from the HICAS light. When I started the car again it was struggling to idle, and after a while would just die again. My car is an automatic, and the mods I have on it are a FMIC, pod filter and a bleed style boost controller. Any ideas guys?

Hey does anyone here know of a place in WA that can repair carbon fibre bonnets? One of the arms that joins the bonnet on to the car has broken off and some of the supporting structure has come apart. Will it be costly to repair?

I think they are black. Mine are anyways and I have a s1 94 R33 GTST. Not sure about how to tell the difference in sizes tho.

I got my exhaust from D & T performance exhaust which I thought was pretty good. Got a 3 inch stainless system from turbo back with a 3 inch dump pipe, hi flow cat and 5 inch cannon for $1595. Genie was charging me way more than this when I asked them for a quote on the same system.

Anyone tried GFX masters? I think they're in Malaga..... I've been there a few times enquiring about a 400R kit and they sounded pretty good. Been to Extreme Machines as well; they were a bit more expensive than GFX masters but the process for preparing the kit sounded pretty professional. "Look guys, what's happened to us guys? 5 days on a sprout diet with a wallpapering video and a crochet magazine and we've all turned to crazies!"

I reckon knore's on the money with getting the indicators elsewhere. I was told it would cost me like $400 or something for the genuine GTR front indicators. Poor value! "Look guys, what's happened to us guys? 5 days on a sprout diet with a wall papering video and a crochet magazine and we've all turned to crazies!"

I have that problem also: after long drives the light comes on and goes off after I turn the car off. I noticed the problem first started happening when I installed my MOMO steeing wheel but I also got a HKB boss kit that is suited for HICAS cars. In anycase when the light comes on I don't notice any handling dramas. "If it's brown, drink it down. If it's black send it back"

I hate the outrun races! Maybe I'm just crap at the moment, but some of the outrun races I've been in take me like 7 mins.... all for a measly $100 (that's what I got the last time, haven't raced since)

After driving round a bit, noticed that the car starts OK but after a while it idles rough and sort of 'chugs' a little. While taking off it chugs a little too, but when I go over about 60 it seems to be fine. Does this sound like a boost issue? Keeping in mind I changed my timing belt before I installed the intercooler. Car doesn't stall or seem difficult to drive, no whining sounds from loose belt either. Maybe I'll just weld a pipe onto the inlet pipe and make things easier. "Wow, this is the best game ever and I have only entered my name! THRILLHOUSE!"

There's a website that reckons you can modify the stock BOV to be able to handle 30psi without leaking. Not 100% sure if it's the same BOV as the stock one in a Skyline but it looks very similar, maybe you could try the same thing?. Go to http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

Well the kit came with Japanese instructions and it looks like they are suggesting to 'T' into the carbon canister manifold line like rep003 suggested. The line they are suggesting I tap into is a small line at the front of the plenum on the left hand side. Didn't wanna try to see what happens when I leave it off; the instructions of the boost controller lead me to believe the boost will soar to dangerous levels if I left the boost controller unplugged. If I'm using the line they are suggesting, it can't be bad right?

Isn't there a Mitsubishi GTO in there? It's called a 3000GT tho. And yes there is a WRX STI, which is heaps cooler than the Imprezza RX in the first game. I've just brought a Supra as well and was puzzled why it didn't come with a turbo from the start; I had to put one in. The GTR, WRX and RX7 will come with turbos from the start, right?

Hey I've just installed a new intercooler myself and have a bit of a problem. The question is this: on the stock pipe that goes from the inlet plenum to the stock intercooler there is a small 'barb' on the side that the factory boost controller is attached to (I think). But the new intercooler I have just put in doesn't have this attachment on the pipe, and I had an aftermarket mechanical boost controller attached to this 'barb' on the stock pipe before the install. I was thinking of joining a similar nozzle to the new pipe, is this safe or will it blow up? Any suggestions? "My eyes, the goggles, they do nothing!"

I"ve just installed one into mine, had to mangle it a bit but you can see the pipes sticking out and also the bottom of the cooler and it looks pretty awesome. The silicon hoses joining the pipes to the core bulge a bit so there'll be some difficulty trying to fit them neatly. Gonna get a new front bar at a later stage anyway so I'm not too fussed for the time being.

Hey guys, I'm installing a Trust V-SPL intercooler and was wandering if anyone can help me with something. The problem is this: the original piping coming from the inlet plenum has a 'little barb' on the side which my mechanical boost controller was connected to. But the new piping with the kit has no such connection. So does anyone know where else I can connect the boost controller to? Or is it easy enough just to fit a barbed connection to the new piping? "Smoke me a kipper skipper, I'll be back for breakfast."

What sucks about all that extra 'American rice' mods (like those spinning rims... bleagh!) is that in order to get max presentation for your cars you'll need to put them on, even if you don't like them. I didn't really like the roof scoops or crazy vinyls in the first game but had to put them on in order to get max respect points. And you can get the GTO as soon as you start the game (well in the customise vehicle option anyway) I've only just got this game and now find out there's no S2000? Noooo! Please tell me there's an S15 this time? "My feet are wet, but my cuffs are bone dry! Everything's coming up Millhouse!"

I don't think there's really much of a muchness between bar & plate VS tube & fin on the street. If you're into competitions/drags then you would probably look into which is more suited for a particular application but just for street driving either is fine. I've got a Greddy one (tube & fin) and it rocks!

My brother has the limited edition copy: came with a XL shirt, a copy of Counter Strike: Source (beefed up Counter Strike), Half Life Source (beefed up Half Life) and also a book with artwork and info on the game 'n stuff. He only got it yesterday but has a feeling he's half way thru it. Looks wikkid! And the buggy is cool!

I'm sure that I'll come out on the PC later on with beefed up graphics 'n stuff. Increased multiplayer modes maybe?

I heard that bar & plate coolers have better cooling properties, where as tube and fin coolers have better flow properties. (or is it the other way around?) A lot of jap drag cars use the tube and fin ones (HKS and other jap coolers have names like 'drag spec') where as cars that compete in endurance events apparently use mostly bar and plate ones. The GTR ones are tube and fin.