igor

Does a cruise need to be registered with cops or anything? I heard one dude saying that cruises are illegal. I was thinking along the lines of working with the local cops and notify them of the cruises, they like that. But i m sure a lot of people would be opposed to that...

Seeing most of you people have a POSTWHORE image in your sig, do you all turn into RADIOWHOREs on a cruise?

That sounds more like it. Normally if a thermostat is broken it lets all the water through the radiator, so the car takes longer to warm up. This is also the case with the nismo thermostat, except it opens earlier.

ive been on that ferry in my line (just over an inch lowered, kings springs, Series 2 front) with no worries at all, plenty of room to spare.

Must be REALLY fast with the "FULLY SIK ON" mod. How much is it and where can i get it done?

Ive never seen cops on that stretch before. Sometimes there is the Wisemans local cop cruising around the picninc area in his Land Cruiser but not on Old Northern. Not that i m saying we should be flooring it all the way there, just saying that people shouldn't worry about speed cameras, rbts and other random nuisances from the blues boys.

Aah the Thornleigh maccas.... Put me as a yes. My woman said shes cool as long a its not a race...

Against a Zonda on tarmac? No way. It just wouldnt have the response needed to corner. Read this: http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.p...15&pagenumber=6 Quite interesting seeing all the Evo boys creaming over the 400.

Finished...... :jump: What i did was actually re-wiring the whole thing - high and low beams. Staff i used: 2 core Figure 8 speaker cable - approximately 14 gauge - 6 metres 2 core figure 8 cable - approximately 16 gauge - 2 metres 2 30A 4 contact relays 2 Relay holders. 2 15A fuses 2 Fuse holders 3 diodes (just asked the guy at jaycar for something that can handle 1 watt) A bunch of terminals and o-terminals (make sure there are two that can go onto M8 bolt, another two for M6 bolt). Vague instructions - schematics to come later when its not 1:30 in the morning. 1. Run the thick cable (2core) to the LH light. 3. Cut the low beam and high beam wires - green and pink respectively. That is the wires that come out of the light globe, not the three pin connector that comes in with all the stripy wires. 2. Connect the your wires to the light wires 3. Insulate the remainder of the wire that you cut (green and pink) 4. Do the same for the RH lights. BUT DO NOT INSULATE the remainder of the cut-off wire 5 Run these wires to the relay box. 5. Run the thinner wire out of the relay box and connect those to the other side of the pink and green wires that you cut off. This is is your signal wire. Now you have all the wires you need in the relay box. 6. Some literature on the world wyld web suggest that you run a diode across the 85 and 86 pins on the relay. Sometimes these relays are known to turn on momentarily after you turn them off. The polarity is very important here. The side of the diode with the stripe should be on the positive side. What i did is I cut off about 5 mm on each side of the diode, folder both legs in half and shoved those in the relay holder across 85 and 86. For more info on this read http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm 7. Now you end up with six wires in the relay box and four wires in the fuse holder. Short the two high beam power wires and attach those to either 87 or 30. 87 is the convention i believe. Connect the 30 to hard positive through the fuse holder with 15A fuse. 8. Connect your ground (85 or 86 )on the holder to the chassis. The ground is determined by the orientation of the diode. Connect the other wire on the relay holder to the low beam signal wire. In this joint put another diode - stripe to the joint. This doide will feed the low beam relay when high beam is on and will not let the high beam relay turn on when the low beam is on. 9. At this stage i would make sure all the wires are insulated, you can leave the high beam wires sticking out, just make sure you dont accidentally ground them. Turn the battery back on and make sure nothing is smoking. If you have a multimeter go over all the contacts to make sure they are right. And of course your low beams should be working now. 10. Repeat the same procedure to the other relay. On the positive coil wire (85 or 86) I stripped a couple of mm and connected the signal wire to that. Then i conencted the end of it to the diode on the low beam signal wire. 11. Another edit. You will need to change the headlights fuses - in the relay box under the bonnet. I put 1A fuses in both LH and RH. 1A is enough to power the two relays. The other 1A fuse will protest the unused wire in the LH side. Should work now. Tips: you need to unscrew the washer tank and the radiator excess tank - 5 bolts. You also need to unscrew the relay holder - 2 bolts. Youd dont need to disconnect the water pipes from the washer tank, should have enough room to move. Tools I used: Wire stripper/cutter - cant leave without that thing Flathead screwdriver - to undo the bottom on the relay box. Soldering iron Solder Rust Converter - thats what i use for flusing the wires - beautiful stuff Crimper for the conencters 10mm socket rachet 12mm socket rachet for the hard positive nut Multimeter You can probably do without a multimeter and the rust converter, not worth getting those just for this. Wire stripper - get it and dont even think about it. It ll drive you up the wall trying to work with the headlight wires without it. 30 bucks from Dick Smith. You can do without the crimper too, as long as you solder properly. Alright, bed time, need to get my 4 hours of sleep. [EDIT] I slept in for an hour, lucky i always leave early, still got to work on time Acknowledgements and References: GTS 33 - For initial design http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/re...elay_basics.htm - Relay stuff http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/re...ays/relays.html - The other half of my design

Rezz must be crying...

I might come along. Not too far from me. Whare is everyone meeting?

Alrite, i didnt find any relays. Looks like the power comes straight out of the switch. I ll be going with the GTS 33's design. I can make a suggestion though. You dont need to run two wires to feed the relays. Since it's a high impedance device you can run one wire to the LH low beam and two to the RH low and high. Then hook up the two relays in parallel to the RH high beam, leaving the rest as you suggested.

Well it was a good ponder... I cant find it so far. Doesnt look like there are ANY relays controling the lights.... Very weird.

See, i ve been pondering lately that there might be an easier solution to this. There are likely to be two relays for the high and low beams (or 4 - one for each light). When the high beam is turned on a low power signal from the switch goes into high beam relay and turns it on. At the same time this signal goes into perhaps another relay which grounds through an appropriate resistor the low beam, ie turns it off. So there might be a solution that will disconnect the low beam relay from the high beam signal. On the other hand they could have put a funky switch on the steering column that has two outputs and does the selection mechanically. This IMHO is unlikely since Nissan is more likely to have a standard switch for all cars. I m going to poke around with the multimeter tonight and see if i can find it.

There is a bloke at work who wouldnt shut up about it. He s totally in love with it. He reckons he read an article which said that they took it for a spin on the track and it won against the Zonda. With that horrible torque curve i doubt it is worth anything on the track. Unless its got antilag its only good for drags.

LOL Just had a mental picture of that. Thats hillarious.

To bring the analogy further: mallet = kimono (spelling) VB = sake going to the pub = caraoke lol

We were at my mates place and his g/f brought a proper brethalyzer from work. I did a mouthful of bourbon and blew 0.670. After that the machine said: WARNING!!! YOUR ALCOHOL LEVEL IS DANGEROUSLY HIGH!!! YOU HAVE EXCEEDED THE MEASURING CAPACITY OF THIS MACHINE!!! And then: RECOVERING FROM THE LAST SAMPLE! Which it sat on for about 5 minutes. Normally its like half a minute... Hehehe, good fun. Another thing we did was joined up about hmmm 20 or so straws and blow through that. We were all blue

I bettter sort out my moddhip then, the playstation has been a ruin for the last month, my amateur efforts must not have been right ) And then - I looooove torrents ))))

Bad publicity.... Bad bad bad. Some people just have way too much testosterone.

Hehe, there is my list, from mine and my g/f's family: - Car wash set - shampoo, sponge, all the chemicals. - Car polish buffer x 2 ) - Car polish - Pneumatic jack + stands + wheel chops - Steam cleaner for my wheels - Chocolates Spent 5 hours cleaning and polishing the car on sunday, rained the next day, stormed today, ended up having the whole car covered in salt ( Washed it again today... shiny )))

Daily Telegraph, our most favorite paper yesterday: "...Nissan Skyline GTR, the same as the one involved in a crash in Wyoming". Geeez, they are pretty bad aren't they. RIP

And the front guards are wider too. Inside - the three gauges in the center of a dash. Never seen gtst's have those.

I know Powerplay chip R34 ecu's. They said they would do R33 as well. Not sure about R32 though. Not sure if they have a dyno either.

45kW????????????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My god, thats way too fast.