burn4005

yep just a JIC vs ISO insulator height. old coils are for JIC, new coils are for ISO

does anyone know the specs of the R35 master cylinder, rear ratio and knee point? the BM57 is a 0.4 rear ratio with a 435psi knee. I'm looking for someone with a much lower knee pressure. the piston area of the R35 brakes isnt that big so might not work for me but this is interesting.. the other option for me is a GU patrol master cylinder and booster and do the prop valve externally.

8370 Only makes sense to me at altitude where you need the extra PR on the compressor and gain it on The turbine. The 8374 turbine is restrictive enough at sea level.

it was 8 years ago who f**king knows

nice to see a tuner ramping in power instead of having the 5000rpm torque mound. would be a hoot to drive. For context, I have 490rwkw at 27psi on a 2.6 8374 and that was doing 126,000rpm on the turbo (maxed) so there would still be a bit left in the 8474 for sure.

Confirmed. I work in LNG and when we are assessing mechanical designs from vendors for compressors we are supplied compressor maps (also radial/centrifugal due to pressure ratios required, but shaft powers of around 10MW) for a range of design inlet pressures and they are markedly different. unforunately i can't share them to illustrate my point. A restricted inlet effectively puts an upper limit on the mass flow to the engine. you can suck harder at lower pressures but this eventually crosses over into not being worth it as your velocity vs density isnt worth it any more and a turbo can't do anything an NA engine can do in that respect.

are 8474s hens teeth or are they generally available?

did you say your car was NA? and you want to spend 25k on a sequential? must be school holidays again.....

interesting. at that boost (3.4 comp ratio) you're overspeeding it at 145krpm @ 75lb/min which that certainly would be. My EFR8374 makes 500rwkw on a 2.6 with the 1.05 rear and it is all in at 128krpm at 580g/s (77lb/min)

I use Denso IK01-24/NGK R7434-8 as I have R35 coils RB26 coils use IQ01-24/NGK R7436-8 they are platinum iridium and make an excellent spark and last a long time as the ground strap is pure platinum can be had for reasonable money from rhdjapan. they're VERY expensive in australia.

what were you expecting? the Turbo was pushing 85lb/min at about 60% compressor efficiency at that operating point and you made 720hp after drivetrain losses? 28psi isn't that much Emap though, I thought you'd be able to drive it harder even though it was pretending to be a heat gun by that point. what wastegate spring were you using and how were the pneumatics plumbed? but really, if you were after much more power than that you picked the wrong turbo. my test procedure for cars doing this is connect the boost line straight to the top port of the actuator, make sure my boost cut is set properly and go do gentle roll-ons down the highway (I mean on the dyno)

other option is radium do an in-tank surge setup for the R34 tank. hides it all away and very neat. not a huge surge capacity but you can't use that much fuel around corners anyway.

this ^^ artec with bungs

a 3.5" plumbed back exhaust with an 8474 on kill would have had sky high EMAP. screamers would add loads of power through VE improvement and pumping loss reduction. at that kind of compressor power you'd be at expansion ratios of 3.5:1 or more on the turbine, so every PSI of backpressure would be 3.5+psi in the manifold.

We're you running a screamer or plumbed back? These turbos need to wastegate like 25-30% of the exhaust flow so it can make quite a big difference once you factor in expansion ratio -> emap -> VE

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade. only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

yep same turbine. only compressor is different

had same experience with the 8374/1.05 on an RB26. 665hp@rear wheels at 28psi was full speed (127k rpm). you would have been overspeeding it for sure at 32psi on an RB28. for me it just nosed over. "what does front shaft out" mean?

10 year thread dig. is this a record?

Thats a GTST. I've never seen an AWD HGT box actually built.

All good carry on then! Had a mate learn an expensive lesson buying a used clutch that needed new carbon plates. Luckily He was sitting down when I told him the price. Best clutch ever though.

I'm sure you are aware but that ATS isn't a new clutch. It's worth measuring the plates in addition to the pressure plate clamping distance (stack up clutch without screwing in pressure plate and measure the gap. The ATS site has an inspection form with tolerances.

HKS suggest upgrading the valve springs for the Vcam Step 2 or step pro kits. anyone know what the seat pressure of the HKS springs are? I can't find any info. I've got kelford beehives at 105lb seat so it would be interesting to know if this rules out Vcam for me.

If you are buying a New N1 block, I would go billet provided you don't live in Darwin. main Caveat with billet is the pump must be external, and the car should be fully warmed up before driving it due to Bearing clearances being very tight cold and quite loose hot (hence a lot of oil flow needed to achieve pressure)

I have a 655whp r34 gtr that i track a bit so I have a bit of experience here. my engine setup is: forged 2.6 with sump vented to catch can along with cam cover ports, 1.3mm restrictor for head Crank Trigger (THIS IS A MUST to get the most out of the engine) Stock fan is best, it just makes it sound like a landcruiser, deal with it. 85mm HKS super turbo exhaust with a 3.5" dump. I had the Cat flange cut off which is 76mm and replaced with a 3.5" one at it flows the power fine with the wastegate plumbed in. would shit it in with a screamer pipe 1650cc bosch injectors (these really flow 1420cc at 3 bar for me, but are at ~80%DC Tomei Pump and a 9L baffled sump (this doesn't work well even over-filled with sticky tyres, so much so I have a loud warning alarm to tell me its getting low and to back off before it becomes a problem that engine protection functions activate. EFR8374 1.05A/R with a 6 boost divided manifold and 50mm progate (perfect track turbo. very responsive. I am at 127k rpm max speed at 8300rpm and 26psi at 492wkw. ATS carbon twin plate. I love this thing. not very strong when cold which means it slips nice when warming car up but amazing once its hot and you are on it and holds the power fine. extremely light plates (190g) so easy on your syncros. 4" thick G-reddy tube-fin intercooler. works fine 25 row setrab 625 cooler ducted in wheel arch (lasts 5 laps of QR before overheating) Kelford beehive springs (these are the springs you should be using) Tomei 9.15mm 260 cams (these have done the job, but I would be using Kelford 182-B or 182-S if its a new build. my head has been clearanced to allow larger cams in future if needed. 48mm Koyo Radiator with a (swirl pot tank connected to top of radiator and head bleed point, and down into lower rad hose) a Peirburg E3LM fuel pump in tank running at 17.5v with a range rover FPCM for speed control and boost-a-pump voltage booster with a large hydromat on the floor as pickup and the return flowing onto it (don't do this, the hydramat helps but below 1/4 I still get fuel surge on track. street is however fine. the correct solution to be neat these days is a Radium in-tank surge tank kit. the lessons for me are: if you want to circuit drive on semi slicks, a dry sump and a surge tank are a must. you will get oil pressure problems. I have a tomei pump and a 9L gated sump and I have oil pressure issues (with ECU power cuts if it gets low. an accusump is a bandaid and as hard to install neatly as a dry sump tank. if you're going all out then dry sump it. I have a 25 row setrab in the passenger wheel well using the Nismo ducting. the car gets hot (120c+) after 4 or 5 laps at QR. you need a bigger cooler if you want to go longer, but you're tyres will give up around this point so its fine for me. unless you run slicks your tyres (and probably brakes) will be shot after 4 or 5 laps and need to cool down. you will 100% need a fuel surge tank. a coolant swirl pot is a very very good idea. removes any air/vapour from the engine constantly. Castrol SRF fluid for the brakes. its expensive but you'll never go back. you will actually drive like a bitch on the track now your car is worth $200-300k and isn't really designed to do it, and 500kw at the wheels is a real handful despite how good you think you can steer, especially after lap 3 when your semi slicks start to complain. a Porsche GT3 is a much better tool.