burn4005

Platinum racing do a kit. The stalks are replaced with shorter ones so the coils sit lower. They sell all the pieces individually too. Spoke to them about it at WTAC.

Pump works, I haven't got it to a track yet to see. Am logging fuel pressure with a engine protection function on injector delta so I'm not worried about my engine. I haven't changed any of the venting. The charcoal canister line is still in place which is for fumes leaving the tank. The fuel cap is the vacuum relief and I've tested it is working correctly, are you saying it is inadequate? It allows air in to the tank once it gets to between to -3.3 to -6 kPA of vacuum according to the manual. The 2200 is a natural gas injector and hopeless on liquid fuel. The 1650 is a Bosch Motorsport injector designed for liquid fuel and is all stainless steel inside. (Really only flows ~1500 at 3 bar)

here is a test to check they worked as advertised.

This is my setup. There is a boost a pump unit that does 17.5v when active and a continental pump control module. these sit where the stock fuel pump resistor module lived under the ABS/atessa ecus. Tested at 20v/20a for a few hours 100% duty no problems. The relays are for power and the normal/high voltage signal for boost a pump. pump is a Pierburg L3LM screw pump. Was a bitch to get into the r34 saddle tank but I have magnets to hold the hydramats in place. the hydramats cover basically all of the driver side saddle floor. The sard jet pump return line (not shown here) is pointed right onto both the hydramats to keep them wet. Notice the split hydramats feeding the pump. If the mats were damp (hence the jet pump return flowing directly onto both mats) there is enough surface tension to only suck from submerged sections of hydramat. You can have one corner of only one of the mats submerged in fuel and it sucks up no air. The t-piece join is only 5cm vertical from the mats so very little suction head difference.

I'm the tuner. have never seen results of EMAP from an EFR so was a sanity check. will start with a 5 bar sensor and see how we go with that. using one of these with a honeywell PX2 sensor and stainless tubing to the T04 collector of cyl1-3: http://fullfunctioneng.com/product/ffe-emap-canister/

no, its the lack of surge port in the original -5 housings pushing the surge line too far to the right when using the GTX wheels the only place a 2860-5 compressor will surge before the GTX2863 in the correct housing is between 14-18psi, and there is only maybe 2lb/min in it. as already established, the lack of surge ports is the problem. whether they've designed these retrofit antisurge covers correctly is anyone's guess, and if they haven't tried them on an RB26 why are they selling them as a bolt on kit as it would appear they have done no testing. even the A/R of the comp housings match.

is anyone using an Emap sensor with these turbos? I'm going an emtron KV8 and the fuel model has EMAP compensation calculated from compression ratio, so I'm adding an EMAP sensor. I have a single turbo 2.6l rb26, running an EFR8374 with a 1.05 rear and boost up to maybe 32-33psi depending where top speed is. what kind of peak emap am I likely to see at sea level on a cool day? i want to use a sensor that has the span but don't want to lose too much resolution if possible. being conservitive im guessing 2.5x is a possibility? 5 bar abs sensor? 7 bar abs sensor? thanks. matchbot is telling me for 32psi of boost at redline its only 40psi EMAP. that seems very low considering its way off its efficiency there (compressor is at stonewall)

Space, smell, noise, legality, safety, keep the car looking stock, keep fuel isolated from cabin area, the challenge. It's an r34 gtr so didn't want to butcher it.

people seen these? https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-4/turbochargers-bolt-on-upgrade/nissan-rb26dett-bolt-on-turbo-set-gtx28r-series-detail

Bilk, you're running twin walbro 460's down a stock hardline using the quick connect fittings at the tank hat? the internal diameter of the hardline is probably only 6.5mm. that sounds extremely restrictive to me also, the only time I'd use staged pumps is with a fuel pressure sensor with an ECU that did injector delta pressure correction and a cutout function if it got too low. I've got a bit of a frankenstein setup, running the following holley boostapump runs normal voltage on 98 fuel, switches to 17.5v under boost when ethanol >10% continental FPCM pump controller (from range rover/aston martin) takes a 100hz pwm control signal from ecu and produces a 20khz pwm pump driver Pierburg L3LM screw pump (flows 430lph at 80psi - 17.5v) powerhouse racing fuel tank hat with speedflow -8 supply and -6 return Sard Jet Pump for saddle tank (much higher flow capacity to stock one) dual holley hydramats in the tank, with magnets holding to floor, one is 15x3" straight (located where stock sock goes) and a 15x8" cross located in drivers side saddle. this covers most of the drivers side saddle floor. rail return splits and flows back onto both hydramats to keep them wet. I am HOPING this totally eliminates needing a surge setup, looks totally stock, pump is quieter than the nismo due to being a screw instead of a vane and will do 500awkw, but we shall see!

So now sema has kicked off, has anyone heard anything about the 8474 and 9280 black series turbos?

are you actually monitoring exhaust pressure on each twin scroll bank or just wanted the gates to move a bit quicker?

twin 4-ports is pretty serious! what springs are you running in the gates?

thats getting towards the very upper limit of power for the 67 compressor. but you'd scrape it in before overspeeding. I'd be wanting a larger A/R hotside though on a 2.5 have a play in matchbot and see where your exhaust pressures end up.

just keep a 1.45 housing on your wishlist if you're looking at 775+hp. they 'spensive.

I see you are using a 50mm waste gate. Is that a turbosmart progate or progate lite? The lite version is unsuitable for 4 port boost control in my opinion. I would only consider using it if nothing else would fit. The diaphragm to valve area is only around 1.3 so is more susceptable to manifold pressure differences with a light spring. The real progate 50 has a diaphragm to valve area of around 2 so has much better control.

you need use the combustion energy to turn the turbo rather than provide cylinder pressure. you want more ignition retard to burn the charge later. the PowerFC pro is a piece of shit in 2017. pull it out and use a real ecu. it's "launch control" is only an ignition cut instead of fuel, and an auxillary rev limiter. its not a real launch control system. ideally you want an ecu that can do TPS defined ignition retard activated by low road speed & a clutch switch.

an external gate has to pull on the stem to open valve, an internal actuator has to push to open the flapper.

also I'd recommend finding a 12 watt solenoid version of the 4 port mac valve (made by circuit seven on ebay). they control duty cycle range is much greater (40% greater effective duty range) giving you better control resolution as the 4 ports are sensitive. also a lighter spring in the gate will allow the valve to respond faster. as long as your diaphram to valve area is decent (>1.5), a 4 port will hold it closed with a very light spring. effective duty @ 30hz for the 4 ports: 5.4watt is 22-62% 12watt is 14-70% alve freq approx Duty range % 3port MAC-5.4 watt 10 7-90 15 10-89 20 15-86 25 17-80 31 20-80 40 26-68 3 port MAC-C7-HI-FREQ 31 15-85 40 17-82 4 port 5.4 watt 10 9-87 20 16-70 30 22-62 40 25-40 4 port C7-HI-FREQ 10 6-90 20 10-80 30 14-70

You're hitting a wall and it's mostly the hot side doing it so the 9174 wouldn't help. China cooler at 500kw may be a problem but 120mm should be sufficient if it's decent. But 3" exhaust at 500kw is definitely a problem. That's a lot of cheap power on the table there.

Said like a true precision user! On a serious notw it's great to see the power just flatten and not nose over, even with the boost tapering. Gives me confidence the 1.05 is the right choice for a safe 450-480awwk

I've got a super turbo on an r34. Chopped off the flange where it bolts to the Cat coverter as it's 75mm there. Welded on a 3.5" instead to match the dump pipe Very quiet. Happy with it.

if they're genuine ID2000 injectors then they should be fine. if they're bosch CNG injectors throw them out.

you're right, i was looking at this on my phone on the bus, now I've got it on my monitor to extrapolate, it's all done at 94lb/min no matter how hard you drive it.

you're right, I haven't found anything that explicitly states the 80mm turbine rpm limit is what stops you spinning the 91mm compressor wheel any harder, but Borg Warner saying the 9174 has a higher HP capacity and rpm limit relative to the 9180 shows this is the case. what confuses this is all of borg warner compressors are limited to 560m/s tip speed, and it is definitely the compressor tip speed they're talking about, so why the 91mm compressor is an exception to this is anyone's guess. it appears they have clipped their compressor map at this speed, so the 9180 map stops at the 116krpm line, but it's actually still operating at 70+% efficiency, so if spun harder you could extrapolate that map up and to the right a fair bit further if the compressor can hold itself together. you'll need quite a high pressure ratio to keep it happy though (anything under 4:1 is basically stonewalled).