burn4005

20psi for a while should do it.

my setup is using a 50mm turbosmart progate, I'm only using a 7psi spring which should be more than adequate as the diaphragm to valve ratio is very high. I looked at using the progate lite version but in my opinion the effective area of the actuator is far too small for the 50mm valve if a moderate amount of backpressure is present. the full size progate50 will hold a backpressure exceeding 200% of the boost pressure, plus of course the spring pressure. the progate 50 lite will only hold 128% of the boost pressure, plus the spring pressure.

You want to use a 12 watt solenoid version of the MAC 46a 4 port. It has a slightly longer piston travel than a 3 port so the effective duty cycle with the standard 5.4watt coil is quite low. 20 to 60% at 30hz from memory. The boost change that comes with a 1% change in duty can be very large so you want the maximum effective range possible with the 4 port. The 12watt version running at 20hz has an operating range of about 10-80% duty. So a much better control resolution. See this page http://circuitse7en.net/page26.php And buy from here. They are a special order from MAC as there is no order code for a 12w coil on a 46a in the Mac catalogue http://www.ebay.com/itm/231871863736

Are you having a stroke?

You have f**ked up. Get a PayPal refund and buy an emtron KV8 right now.

Would it not be more efficient to leave timing at MBT but ramp boost instead?

yea that's going to be out of puff at 25psi at 7500rpm, and out of speed not much later. but jesus it'll come on early.

calm down and get back to talking about turbos. only reason you wouldn't be happy about the 8374 is if you wanted more than 600ish hp at the wheels. its spinning too fast above that and won't last, not to mention compressor efficiency hits the floor, along with VE when the EMAP skyrockets.

i think the most interesting part of that comparison is the transient response, which a dyno isn't very good at showing. boost threshold graph need to start at same load (Id say completely off the thottle at 2500rpm, then WOT. and use similar ramp rate) transient boost needs time on the X axis rather than speed. you want to be falling to 5000rpm completely off the throttle, then WOT. outright power is more difficult if the dynos are totally different, and to me, far less important.

its not a billet chra, it is cast alloy with the necessary machining. going on a revvy 2.7L nitto engine with a big flowing head. have an 8374 but its close to max speed. not very keen for the turbine wheel to remove itself from the shaft. Its a simple (and relatively cheap) supercore swap. all external dimensions remain identical. a few 9174 results in FG falcons seem to handle 800 hub horsepower at ~5600rpm on a 4 litre at 26psi, so i think it should be ok on a 2.7 @ 8500rpm. matchbot reckons I'll have to delay boost onset for about 300rpm later than the 8374 was happy at to keep it out of surge but it's worth it for the extra legs of the compressor. the 8374 was over in the 65% efficiency area where the 9174 will be around 74% for the same flow. this alleviates back pressure by some margin, without having to go to a larger A/R turbine so VE should be improved also. from my calculations we can run 45kPa more boost to achieve the same pressure delta accross the engine at the very top end. I had some concerns about the strength of the alloy cartridge really.. on a racettrack with a 105 degree water temp and a 900 degree exhaust side pumping in the heat. (this is obviously worst case scenario) yield stress of some aluminium alloys really drop away in the 120-140 degree range (especially 7075). I'm not sure what this CHRA is made of but that was my concern. it will obviously be water cooled in this application.

pulling the trigger on an EFR9174. Fullrace Geoff, maybe you could chime in here. should I be going an alloy or cast iron bearing housing? need a $80usd kit for a retainer ring for the alloy housing to turbine flange otherwise costs are the same. thanks! Alex

Disconnect the injector so it doesn't foul the plug and run it at idle on 5 cyl when warm. Use a cloth to dry the area and you'll see where it's coming from.

That's a bummer... If you mean coolant is in the valley around the spark plug and not in the cylinder itself... I'm going to say head is cracked. If it was cyl 1, 4 or 5 there is a grub screw that may be leaking through the thread but cylinder 2 doesn't have one. No other way for coolant to get in there other than through a. Crack in the head. I'm assuming all other spark plug areas are dry except for cyl 2?

Does anyone know about the alloy chra 9174? Mates car is going to bigger numbers than an 8374 can pump and we have the option of the steel or aluminium chra 9174. Any downsides to running the alloy one as far as reliability goes? Only thing I've seen is you need a new flange kit (80 bucks) to attach the turbine housing to the chra as the softer alloy needs more surface area to grab than the 6 little keepers of the steel one provide, obviously water cooling is a must. Alloy one will be much lighter too (2.85kg in fact). Factoring in the turbine flange kit the price is the same for both options. Cheers

righto so I've convinced myself to throw the 1.05a/r 8374 I have sitting in my garage on the car and need to work out how the f**k you're supposed to plumb back twin gates without spending a billion dollars on fab work. I need to have the gates plumbed in. that Sinco manifold with the divider plate may be the go... anyone recommend someone in brisbane for exhaust/intake fab work? ive had bad experiences with several workshops in the past so i'm quite shy about who to go to. I've found the following manifolds: garage whifbitz: this looks ideal, but the design of the manifold has very different runner lengths and the cars sounds like a WRX. going from an equal length mines pipe, i can't deal with it. unfortunate because it looks very neat. Sydney motorsport engineering/fullrace etc.: these have one gate out the front, but how do you route the piping back to the dump pipe from here? anyone have any pics of what they've done? [ or this setup: unknown manifold (looks like 6boost) with both wastegate runners pointing backwards (by scotty on this forum I believe)

using Bosch 1650s (which actually flow 1500 @ 3 bar) I rate them, but I have spent a bit of time getting the low pulse linarisation table and deadtimes right. other guys i know have used the 1400cc Delphis or a modified bosch 970cc injector that flows ~1250 @ 3 bar and they seem to be a good thing, but I have no personal experience with them. 2200 bosch's are shithouse, only designed for Natural Gas and have f**king appalling performance at low pulse widths on 98. that is 1450HP worth of E85 on a 6 cylinder at 90% duty so they're pointless. the CNG only 1700s are a no-go as well. the ID1700 injectors are good but beware, an older revision from last year had a poor design that had them totally fail but I think that has been fixed earlier this year, and their injector data for the ECU is second to none, which makes setup easy but they are as dear as poison. same with the ID1300s.

my thoughts: a) you have one or more blocked/bad injectors b) your ACTUAL timing is not what the ecu thinks it is. check both base (locked) timing, and actual timing while revving the engine up with a timing light.

Appreciate your input guys. Used to run the hks actuators but one was leaking so went the turbonetics dual ports.. but unfortunately the actuators shaft seal is a token effort and the spring pressure is around the 7psi mark so they're just not up to it and blow open dropping to 0.9 bar at redline. The turbo smart dual port IWG-75 units would be much better suited and I may investigate making them fit as I'm in for 130 bucks for a garret actuator or 200 for the turbo smart dual port with the option of adding more springs down the track. Engine is a JHH built 2.6 with headwork, hks2530s proper 3 inch dumps, equal length front pipe and 85mm exhaust, 260 x 10mm cams and PAC beehive springs. Has made 550whp at 23psi in the past. Full boost about 4600rpm. Want to see how far these hks snails will go for fun really. A big Efr is a few years down the road if I still have the car

High boost (~28psi) with -5s/2530s. what actuator needed for stable boost? Hi Guys, Got a question for those of you that have pushed big boost through low mounts (-5s/2530s etc) I was using some dual port actuators from turbonetics with a 4 port solenoid in the hope they would provide a large control range for boost control, but they leak on the underside of the diaphram through the shaft hole so cannot hold the wastegate closed at significant boost and they also have a weak spring so are not suitable to just use as a single port. on closer inspection they're not going to work so I'm ditching them for some normal single port actuator cans. the question is, what spring pressure will I need to use to hold 28psi on E85? is the 15.6psi spring of the garrett -5 actuators enough to not have them blow open at high exhaust manifold pressures or do I need to go to a garrett 19psi spring actuator to hold them? it is a flex fuel car so on 98 I would like to be running around 20-22psi and up to 28-ish psi on E85 if possible. the other option would be going to dual port turbosmart IWG-75s but they're quite a bit more expensive so would rather not and I'm not sure if they'll fit as they're pretty big. thanks!

I'm using a couple of those cyclone things inside my catch can as a vapour recovery system. seem to work well. Im using plastic OEM BMW ones from a BMW V8 X5 engine.. alternatively, there are ones from an M5 S62 V8 engine,part number is 11151406788 but they're MUCH more expensive for a little plastic thing (///M Car Tax) cheap from Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Oil-Separator-Crankcase-Ventilation-Valve-for-E52-E53-X5-Z8-4-4i-4-6is-Alpina-11151705237/32695549568.html

wobble in the radial dimension when spinning. like if you spun a shaft that was slightly bent. thanks hypergear, I'll check for leaks first before I am prepared to entertain the thought of a bad brand new turbo core. once it's warm its perfect. hopefully I'm just shit at doing up bolts.

Hi Guys, We've put in a couple of freshly rebuilt and balanced -5s in a mates car and we are getting this whining sound during spool with light load pitch follows load with a bit of a lag. During boost and high load I can't hear it, it may go away but also may be drowned out by other noise. also it only does it when the car is cold. after 10 minutes running it's completely gone. theories are: a) Turbine outlet flange exhuast leak (heats up and seals properly) or somewhere else? b) Inadequate bearing lubrication (oil warms up and it comes good) c) Turbo is out of balance/excessive bearing play (turbo warms up and comes good, but I'd expect it to be loud during boost as well, unlikely to be play, they are brand new cartridges and felt perfect) anyone seen this before or is it normal? If it was a T51R-SPL I wouldn't be worried but it sounds like a big turbo spooling from low down. sounds like this but fainter. in our case you have to listen for it: another example: anyone had this before? Videos don't say what it ended up being or how they fixed it.

Lol. I have done EXACTLY this. haven't fitted it yet but have literally all the bits, except i didn't buy the nismo installation bracket kit as i was going to fab them out of steel instead, they wanted like 300 bucks just for a few bits of metal. I have a Setrab series 6 25 row cooler, and it is slightly too tall to fit into the nismo ducting but was planning to cut and fibreglass the duct to fit it correctly. I will get some pictures tonight to show you what the issue is. the setrab rows are much shorter than the older greddy style coolers, so 25 row setrab is slightly taller and longer than a 13 row Greddy/Trust one (which is basically the same core as the nismo one) the greddy core is the same as the nismo one and I think would fit the duct perfectly. there are lots of 13 row coolers on the market with this older design so its an easier option. I went the setrab as I wanted the best cooler I could fit in there. here is the genuine kit. the cooler is a 13 row one same as basically all the japanese brands, and now china copies. and here is what the nismo bracket kit looks like (21308-RNR45):

Blue Nissan relay base for OEM engine bay fusebox (R34) Hi Guys, wanting to wire in a new relay for a direct feed to my ignition coils in my R34 and keep it looking neat. anyone know where i can source a relay base that installs in the OEM fusebox neatly? I'm after one of these: Thanks!

holy cow thats a lot on 2530s! how much boost did you need to hit those numbers on 98 and E85?