burn4005

i just set mine to 50% TPS OR 4000rpm with a 5 second re-activation delay. to stop it cycling.

if you've got plans for reasonably high power its worth going the 1000.. the 750hp damper is a 5.5" model so for me the recommended rebuild schedule make the 1000hp model a more attractive proposition for an engine making reasonable power. you need an ECU that will turn off the air conditioning clutch above a certain rpm as its 25% overdriven so you don't kill it. rebuild information from ATI's manual: http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf Recommended Maintenance Schedules For street and drag race motors and dampers greater than 5.5": up to 800 HP: damper should be rebuilt every 10 years Above 800 HP, Blown or Nitrous racing: damper should be rebuilt annually Circle Track / Endurance: dampers should be rebuilt during each engine rebuild For 5.5" dampers: 400 HP rebuild every 5 years • 400-600 HP rebuild every 2 to 3 years • 600+ HP rebuild every year

coates hire lift and shift will rent you a big f**k off warren and brown deflecting beam wrench and a 12 point socket (no ratchet on a W&B so a 6 point might not give you enough angular freedom) for about $60 bucks for 1/2 a day. I drove there, rented it, drove home *click*, took it back about 1 hr later. the 1" Drive Wrench is so long is reasonably easy to get the required torque. you only need to pull on it from the passenger side of the engine bay with about ~35-40kg of force depending where you grip it. my clutch will hold about double the bolt torque so i just put it in gear with the handbrake on and had no issues with the engine in car (radiator removed) and bonnet open.

329-344 ft lb

If you're talking side feed you're fighting with one hand tied behind you back.

Very nice! first 8474 result on SAU. those are some stout numbers and plenty of speed headroom, looking at 117k at 2.65:1 pressure ratio you're pretty close to dropping off the lower efficiency limit of the map (60%) so more boost would certainly keep making power. for comparisons sake, I made about 650whp at 127k RPM and 27psi with an 8374. when does it reach full boost? do you have any plots or logs?

i wouldn't just bend it from the ferrule, you will have a stress concentration and risk tearing or folding it. I would remove it and bend it around something like a bit of pipe with a radius. this will make the bend more progressive instead of a "kink"

great news well done on finding it! seriously, turbo speed sensors are so under rated. they tell you LOTS about an engine. (unless you have a precision, then f**k you don't ask questions it a 900hp turbo haha)

The other possibility, albeit unlikely is a pre turbo inlet restriction causing your compressors operating pressure ratio to be much higher than normal. You've got a big inlet filter on there?

for reference, I was talking about the stock twin BOVs on my setup leaking, I have a blanking plate on the turbo housing bov, I swapped out the stock ones for 2x GFB mach 2 plumb backs which bolted onto the stock bov pipe and wound them up pretty tight. I wasn't happy with the oriface size on the comp cover bov for the high flowing turbos (83 and 91mm versions). was still getting loud choof (comp surge) with it. no such issue with the mach 2s.

my BOVs were leaking and the turbo was doing about 8000rpm more than it should have been based on the compressor map / VE mass flow calc and Pressure ratio from the ECU. put in new BOVs and it was back down where it should have been.

thats pretty serious. 4" dump and 1.45 A/R rear. that is going to haul.

interesting. I remember borg had their own prototype on display a few years ago. was on an EFR turbo starting with a 7 though. would be cool to see this in action. I wonder if they're buying EFR housings from Borg to modify or if they are casting their own (investment casting stainless is no small feat!)

that looks like a much friendlier torque curve as far as drivability goes. looks more like a supercharger delivery.

yea it was specifically the 8474 i was talking about lack of results, I had assumed they weren't performing as nobody seemed to be bragging, I hadn't considered people being coy about good results (ie Papadakis posting about getting one but then hearing nothing further about how it went). Ive still only seen a dyno plot of RT/Ernies one from 2016 I think, otherwise i would have pulled the trigger already! Anecdotally it looks like they're proving to be a solid performer over the 8374 (and reading between the lines of your post they are definately meeting expectations amounst the hush-hush crowd). looks like I need to get off my ass and order one then!

im starting to worry about these turbos, not a single result anywhere on the internet for over 6 months! lots of gunnas though! (including me lol)

inconel studs, copper nuts and nordlock washers. never think about it again.

man im running 500awkw of e85 through stock 5/16" line so anything better than that will be fine.

whats a power FC?

I think that's a safe assumption.

this is the perfect use case for a V-cam system. you can purposely run shitty cam timing to keep VE low on lower octane fuels.

also, note that the L5LM original TI Automotive pump is now available from Ti Automotive aftermarket. the kit is called BKS1000, and comes with a speed controller, but note that it only runs at full speed as there is no speed control input available. Link below: https://walbrofuelpumps.com/catalog/product/view/id/5399/s/ti-automotive-bks1000-brushless-in-tank-fuel-pump/ but the same pump is available from Holley cheaper in this kit https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-767

nah I've got a 100mm greddy unit. dont really have much useful data as I havent got any track data for full boost as I'm getting the chassis happy first. and at 10psi from the last test day there is very little heat being added to the air, making around 300awkw. but a 7 second dyno pull at 28psi went from 26 to 34 degrees C. but thats more heat sinking than cooler efficiency, Dyno fan not an accurate test.

I would run a much softer spring. you are clamping the lower effective control range of the boost control output as its just more preload for the boost control pressure to overcome for no reason. I am using a 5psi spring in a progate 50 and it holds 28psi no problems, in saying that it has an excellent diaphram to valve area ratio (~2:1) so even a 1psi spring would work. I also recommend the 12watt mac solenoid instead of the 5.4. its deadtime is significantly shorter giving you a broader effective control range.

Is your ecu doing the boost control? You could try backing off the proportional gain a bit as the proportional error seems to be too high. Alternatively you may need a bit more derivative to back it off if you think the prop gain is correct (output gain matches process gain)