Simink

Started again today in ACC first, perfect start. But noticed if i gave it a rev up to about 3500rpm it would drop to about 400 and nearly stall before catching itself. Called out RACQ just in case the battery needed replacing, he said it's a little lower than it should be and thinks it just needs a charge. Bought a charger off him, plugged it in when I got home, within 3min the fully charged light is on. I'm going to leave it for a few hours cause I'm hoping the charger is telling porkies and that it's going to be the issue fixed. RACQ guy also said that the battery is a bit smaller than you'd expect in a car of that size, but not uncommon. It is the battery that was in the car when I bought it from the dealer. Can't get specs on it without taking it out. No visible markings or labels anywhere with it in. If I'm still getting issues after charging the battery I might just bite the bullet and put a new battery in it and see how it goes. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Fingers crossed.

Throttle body and MAF are spotless. Clean them both regularly, and I don't let them build up much carbon. Good call. Last service he mentioned one terminal was a bit loose and will need replacing. Battery itself was brand new July '14. Would have thought if it was the battery it'd be more than just an inconsistent fuel pump feed. I'll put new terminals on this weekend and see how I go. --- FYI: Started this morning with letting the pump prime in ACC first, started up perfectly. 1800rpm, then slowly dropped to idle.

This is exactly what I'm getting. Took it for a 300km cruise a few months back and it got rid of the stuttering for about 3 weeks. I only drive a short distance to work, and mostly 60kph zones. In saying that, is it possibly just the computer recalibrating incorrectly from doing short trips?

I'll post a video in the morning. It's not as bad as it must sound to you. Turns over fine second time. It's got to either be fuel pressure in the line, pump not getting clean voltage, pump dying, or needs the intakes cleaned (which i doubt is the issue). Reason I think it could be pump dying is cause at driveway speed it doesn't have a smooth power input. Somewhat like the pump is turning on and off randomly, or just not producing a consistent flow. Some days it's perfect, others it has minor power cuts. Thanks for the input though. I'll put it in A/C first to see what happens regardless. Will be a good test.

Straight start. You thinking put it into A/C first, see if the pump gets charge, then start? Worth a shot. I'll try in the morning.

Hey guys, I've started having an intermittent recurring problem over the past 6 months. When I cold start the car in the morning, 9 times out of 10 it will struggle to get an idle and often stall out completely. Second attempt it fires up perfectly every time with a peak rev up to around 2000rpm then slowly back down to idle (as per normal). When it first started having the issue it would spend a good 5-10sec "chugging" before finding idle, but over time it has started dying and now it's down to about 2sec before stalling. It's just had a regular 10,000km service, and I had them replace all the spark plugs and give a full mechanical report - no Consult, they refused to touch it (Nissan service centre). The only thing I can think of would be the fuel pump dying. The car hasn't even done 80,000km yet - do the pumps in these die that quickly?

Funny you should say that. It was a Nissan dealer service centre I took it to - which is why I've lost faith in the professionals and asking for advice from the enthusiasts! lol

Looking at that diagram the rubber coupling is the large hexagonal shaped piece at the top end of the shaft. Isn't the rubber coupling there to absorb friction between the shaft and it's connection at both ends? Not sure I understand either, and to be honest I don't have a lot of confidence in the mechanic. He called me first thing in the morning to tell me the rear crossmember was split... when I went into the service centre he said he meant the rubber coupling. Not sure how much stupid you need to mix those up. So I can't take anything from what he meant by this. With any luck it's not something that needs replacing, just remove the oil. In all honesty, if there's someone with a lot of mechanical knowledge on V36's in Brisbane or surrounding areas I'd prefer to get a second opinion on everything they looked at.

Just took my V36 ('07 350GT SP - VQ35HR) for it's first 10,000km service since purchased, and the dealer mechanic flagged a few things I need to draw attention to. He's recommended I find aftermarket parts if I can because the cost of genuine from Japan is ridiculous. The main item I need is a Tailshaft Rubber Coupling - rear coupling, not sure if they differ front and back. Parts suppliers anywhere within Australia, as long as they're willing to post parts. - One other thing I need done, which will need to be from someone locally (Brisbane), is the rear diff bush is filled with oil. The mechanics words were "it will need 'special equipment' to push it out", and that it's not something they can do. Who can I see about getting this done? Thanks in advance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.speedcafe.com/2014/10/27/ambrose-cut-first-djr-v8-laps-lakeside/ Anyone interested in heading out to watch this when they finalise bookings? I just rang them and they haven't confirmed the track booking yet with DJR, but when it does it'll be a free spec event (as long as DJR doesnt request a private session).

Gotcha. I was under the impression it was Lakeside rule more than a club rule. Makes perfect sense.

Do they accept Nordschleife instead? Bit of a weird rule. I wonder what the theory behind it is... "Now that you've tackled a flat race track, prepare yourself for some slight hills (cause public roads don't have those...)"

Not going to make this one guys. Have fun! Next time for sure.

Is this crew still active? If it is can someone please add me? PSN: Nebula-Nyx

Nah, you need to get a QLD GOV approved Driver Authorisation, sit medicals, etc. Same process as a taxi driver. Everything is by the books now. Lots of Uber drivers have been taken off the road in Brisbane which is why it's now prime real estate for anyone wanting to make some extra dosh. Only once you've done all that can you go to their sign up and get registered with them. I understand everyone's speculation, but from everything I've read up on they've done everything by the books. Not banned in QLD anymore. Any driver without the gov auth gets suspended from their Uber driver account. It's a simple system. The PayPal thing is a misunderstanding as well. Uber doesn't pay to your account immediately. They take the money, take their 20% cut, and every Monday at 4am you get paid your weekly total.