Tomak

Here is the complete info about my car with 20 video clips The Story of My 500 HP Skyline R33 GTR LHD Project. The car was purchased 100% original in the UK. The steering conversion to LHD was done in Poland using components from a 1995 Nissan Maxima. An entire second car was purchased for spare parts to ensure no shortages. All air vents and the dashboard were transferred, including the air conditioning controls. The power steering unit was sourced from a Nissan 200SX LHD, and a custom universal joint was fabricated by a lathe operator to connect everything. The front lights were adjusted to meet EU standards and converted to xenon as they were originally standard. The conversion process, along with registration and engine overhaul, took nearly 2 years. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I had a total of 3 setups in the car 1. Factory RB26DETT Twin-Turbo 350 HP on original turbines 2. Tuned RB26DETT Single Turbo 500 HP Borg Warner 179391 EFR 7064 + custom manifold 3. Engine Swap RB25DET AWD Single Turbo 500 HP Garrett GTX3071r + manifold 6 boost v-band -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Among the major additional modifications I made were installing Recaro CS seats with custom mounts, Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 wheels, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin Clutch Kit with a lightweight flywheel, Nismo white gauges, an additional display with sensors and alarms to monitor exhaust temperature and turbocharger pressure, Tein Flex dampers, car was tuned on LINK G4 ECU -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Feel free to check out the videos documenting my project and restoration: Photo Gallery: https://youtu.be/5xA3hsVlJ6s Day of Car Purchase in the UK...100% OEM: https://youtu.be/2U3jR_GX-M4 Engine Overhaul (photo gallery): https://youtu.be/ombYhG19nhw Factory RB26DETT Twin-Turbo 350 HP FlyBy: https://youtu.be/s1eIhDbHCqw Dyno Run RB26DETT Single Turbo 500 HP Borg Warner 179391 EFR 7064: https://youtu.be/VkwqWndQyLc https://youtu.be/9q-TCF8TMMw Flyby RB26DETT Single Turbo 500 HP Borg Warner 179391 EFR 7064: https://youtu.be/H4kv6y10xJs https://youtu.be/D4fh2t51wCc https://youtu.be/vZM_bMbtEhM https://youtu.be/azjPCYtANRI Nurburgring Onboard: https://youtu.be/Ly0sgUsh6Iw Autobahn Onboard: https://youtu.be/BOfZrwQV3K0 https://youtu.be/9LtgiuV1AK4 https://youtu.be/XvxzSSBnfz4 https://youtu.be/gzANxbqHhBw https://youtu.be/VwRzFwsrqNM Onboard: https://youtu.be/itvnK1-WPoU https://youtu.be/E0Mpb_Jd9pI https://youtu.be/SXdJBzZLhMs RB25DET AWD Single Turbo 500 HP Garrett GTX3071r Engine Swap: https://youtu.be/q_U2rYnFUAc https://youtu.be/kYNdsKnXsJY https://youtu.be/doNbmL78Pk0 Additional Clips: 3 x Skyline R34GTR Nurburgring: https://youtu.be/iCpSXk1nFRg Snow Drift AWD RB26dett: https://youtu.be/901jVImAqio NISSAN GT-R 550 HP Ring Taxi Nurburgring Onboard: https://youtu.be/e_-XYcw3Qic --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello, i am posting some videos, will post some info about my project soon https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LtgiuV1AK4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvxzSSBnfz4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzANxbqHhBw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwRzFwsrqNM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZM_bMbtEhM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azjPCYtANRI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2U3jR_GX-M4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4kv6y10xJs

Hello, There is too much noise in my Skyline GTR at 250 km / h ....Maybe old and worn door seals to be replaced. ... I don't know what else it could be? I hear the whistle of air above my ear, somewhere from 200 km / h upwards. Car is from 1995 Sending the link to my video so you can hear yourself

i mean how to set up the crank angle sensor, what deegrees it should be on crank pulley using strobe light.....? That was my question

Hello, My car shows in Link G4 ignition angle parameter BTDC around 5-6 on idling (around 1000 rpm) What correct timing angle should be in rb25det then. Is there any corelation to this what Link g4 shows? How to set up the correct timing angle?

Hello, What parts do i need to buy for r33 gtr getrag 6spd conversion? 2 x r34 prompt shaft for rear and front + r34 rear differential? I am looking to buy whole r34 set engine + getrag but also consider buying seperately. What ratio has a front r33 and r32 differential and does it matters with this 6spd convertion? Do i need to have also front differential from r34 gtr? What in the situation when i use front and rear differential from r33 with r34 6spd getrag. is it going to work this way or not?

Hello, Looking for this parts 1. rb26dett r34 gtr + 6sp getrag gearbox ( i want to buy complete set with clutch and flywheel ) 2. r34 gtr rear differential 3. r34 front and rear prop shaft.

I am using actually LINKG4 but never tried to do any temp corrections by myself and i have hard time reaching my tuner right now. He quit his job. Actually i am in position where i can try to fix it myself or need to pay another tuner for complete mapping from scratch again. I just went for a run on cold and it was smooth ride for 15 minutes on full loads at 1.7 bar so i guess all is ok with my car just overheating issues at some point.?? Maybe this is because of stronger turbo and i never do any temp corrections before. I had before gtx3071 gen 1 with max hp 550hp and did not have this issues. The problem start to occur more often on gtx3071r gen 2 max 650hp. I mean this gen 2 turbo feels much stronger even when i go only on 1 bar from spring, it has way more potential and its more aggressive. What corrections should i do in the Link G4 ECU? I need some instructions which parameters to change. Is the log necessary for this operation or not? I need to drive around 1h to get this log saved if this helps with anything. Is this engine temp overheating limiter?

Hi guys, I have this problem in my new setup like turbo overboosting but its not overboosting...its just cutting my turbo off for some reasons at high and low rpms at different boost at heavy load. Like its living its own life. One night i dont have issues and can go for 1 hour without problems accelerate all the time on different gears at heavy load about 1.6 bar and after 1 hour of drving the turbo cuts again. Like i dont have a fck clue what it can be.... How is this possible that car accelerates one time clean and other time turbo is failing, like the boost is unstable or something, ?? I put new GTX3071 gen2 two weeks ago because i thought my turbo failured but the new one has the same issues. It only goes clean every time at low boosts from 1 to 1.3bars. When i hit 1.5-1.7 it feels like overboosting at some point. So i have changed the turbo already. On my manual turbo display i have overboosting set up limits to 2.0 bars, i run external westgate precision turbo 45mm with 1.0 bar spring. My turbo housing is 0.83 A/R v band and 6boost exhaust manifold. Rb25det engine IS OEM did not any mods to it.

Yes you are right, not rich = hot. I remember having a hole in my turbo pressure hose and EGT was 950 C one time on my other setup i used to have.. So i think i know everything now. I need to check my fuel injections and to check all cylinders seperately because something is wrong here. I may have a mechanical problem with injections or its just bad mapping. My new tuner is going to take care of this issue i hope because i dont have contact to my old one and dont have any info about AFR.

OK, thanks will fix it and do the new mapping so i can go lower with egt temp. Maybe i run too rich as my last tuner always said rich is better to protect engine damage. Is that normal that the pipes on the right are more overheated and more red on the picture? It looks like more exhaust gases flowing to the pipes on the right.....is that possible? The center of the pipes splitter is melted more to the right side. i marked this spot on blue. May be this a case why the pipes on right side cracked? As you can see the pipes on left side are in black color.....

EGT sensor is where the crack is on other side manifold, after turbine. Well i will try to fix it myself since my mechanic do the custom exhaust systems. Never heard about this heat wrapping issue...so i will take it out if this helps.

Damn...i am not to happy because i spent ton of money to build new setup and this manifold cost me 1000 pounds with lifetime warranty. They said its strong and one of best on the market. This is a joke or something.....Cant handle 2 months of driving

Heat wrap? yes with Dei heat tape. But i am not sure if i left some spots without the tape. May be this be the issue?

Hello, I have a new setup installed about June 2020 last year. It has about 5000km milage and the manifold crack open. You can see that there is more heat around the crack and its more red?? My EGT was around 850 celcius max when pushing hard on the max boost. I have a new turbine also GTX3071r gen 2 pushing around 450-500hp righ now. My boost is around 1.5bar max. Question1: Does it have anything with bad mapping my car? Question2: May be the issue with hitting the max rpm too often on gears from 1-3 and cutting off my engine at 7500rpm like crazy maniac? Since i got this new turbine i love the sound of this turbo when it hits max rpm so whats what i did a lot.... this crack on the picture looks really bad, its bend out, around 3cm long. Any ideas ? Here is the picture, i used this brand new manifold for arounf 2-3 months from installation. ;/

I will go to my tuner soon so i will ask about this.

OK, Just started normally after installation, did like this with every garrett turbo. Actually my mechanic did it. Never told me about special starting procedure for new turbo.

No first time hear this, what is this about? I will be in my mechanic shop next week so i do it. I am not able to disconnect the oil return line at the bottom of the block by myself and on the top i dont have a space even to move it. Everything is so tight that i would have to disconnect all the turbo installation again. Is there a specific oil flow ratio through the turbine? How i am suppose to calculate this? Like check it on idling how much oil goes through the turbine per soconds ? The oil pressure is way higher at 6000rpms so what this test will tell me on idling?

All Garrett turbos i owned have something inside the connection hole. Maybe a restrictor but i dont know what size is this. My old GT3076r also has it and turbos from gen1 also. I used double restrictors so far i know, something like this in this topic below My screw had a tiny restrictor that was glued at some point. My mechanic said this is no problem because high oil pressure will make the oil keeps going. I checked oil pressure on the oil line by disconnecting from the turbo and its ok. So i decided to take a drill and make this restrictor much bigger from 1mm to 2.5mm. When i connected back together the metal noises from the turbo went away. Actually the turbo is way more responsive and has better boost with better oil flow. So can i drive like this? I hope i did not killed my turbo by driving some time with this metal grindings. When it got good oiling it runs like new so far. Maybe i saved my second turbo i dont know yet. Also found this in google If there is too much oil in the pan or if the turbocharger in your car is relatively lower, then oil can get through the seals and begin to blow out. ... This happens because the restrictor will starve the turbo of oil, which will cause all of the internals of the turbo (including all of the seals) to wear out. E

Hello, I have a problem with my recent setup. After installing new turbo its failing after 500km of driving, so pretty fast. My last GTX3071r gen2 survieved just 2 months also new one, around 2000km Just driving on highways, no trackdays, racing etc. My actual setup is RB25det with 6boost manifold, vband Garrett turbo housing ar 0.83. First thing I am planning to change is all water and oil hoses connected to the turbo, i have no idea what the other problem my be. I have a question regarding water and oil hoses. There are two water hoses connected to the turbo, should it be connected in the right direction or it does not matter ? Does the water flows through the turbine just in one direction? May be this a problem or not? I mean the first hose comming from the engine block can be connected on right side of the turbo and also on left side? Also the say to use oil restrictors for Garrett turbos so i use 0.9mm screw with the oil restrictor to connect oil hose to the turbo. Is this ok or not? Any ideas? My actual turbo starts metal grinding today so i know its going to fail soon. THe first one started exactly the same, metal grindings comming from the air filer and next day, the turbine rotor was bend and stuck, no boost at all. ;/

Guys i remember now that the only part i have changed in my car before swapping to Rb25 motor was the rear differential. Before killing my RB26DET my rear diff also died and i have replaced it with different one. I am not sure about the source where i bought this rear diff, i got it from some local garage shop that does not have good feedback on forums. It was very cheap too, around 200 USD, this is why i took a risk and bought it. So my car suffers vibration right after the rb25 swap and this rear differential. Can such a vibrations be from this rear differential? When my old differential died i could hear loud howling sound like siren this is why i changed it. But i dont remember such a harsh vibrations, it was 2 years ago. Actually i have my old differential in my house so i can put it back to check if also vibrates. Maybe this way i can at last check the rear differential. The prices of rear diff on ebay are killing me, 1500 pound from UK ;/ If this is the issue what do you suggest? Get the third one used OEM or maybe change the diff internals for new one some brand like Quaife? https://shop.quaife.co.uk/nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-r33-r34-rear-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential

Thanks for great ideas. I have cut my rear spoiler already because i found it is to heavy and too big and also cut front lower spoiler lip. It looks like shit now but at last i can go to the supermarket to pick up some patatos. I plan no further modifications between GTR - GTS so far. The front from GTR r34 would be nice by the way, maybe i think about this conversion one day. It will be GTR/GTS NEO/R34/ converted also forget to add its already left hand drive converted for EU roads with cockpit from Maxima 1995. LOL My mechanic was a pro drifter swaping rb25 to S14 and he said there are some advantages over rb26 but i dont remember now what he was talkign about LOL. He is deep inside these engines and run the store with parts to Rb's I also rebuilded my Rb26 once with forged pistons and rods. after spun bearing. It cost me around 8k USD and then i spun the bearing again after 3 years of driving. THis engines has problems with oiling and high revs. So in this case i changed setup to RB25. I spun bearing again in Rb25 after 1 month and got another Rb25 at 2k with labor. Driving like gold now for one year on stock internals. I dont mind spunning bearing again pretty soon LOL

Yeah i was thinking about this for some time now. I think this is the only way to take apart everything and check every part and joint. I am pretty sure its coming from the front, cus i can hear this rubber noise when i brake and accelerate. I hope i will find something finally.

Because Rb25 is 10 times cheaper in my country than RB26 and more accessible and i like to kill the engines, so that was the decision. Rb25 is not bad at all i dont see any differences except lower revs limit 7500.

So you are saying i may need to buy next gearbox? Thats what i was wondering and left this for last part to change eventually, .... LOL, they dont use sirens in my country anymore, they try to race undercover with BMW's so i need to be cereful when i see any BMW on my tail now....;/