Tomak

Hello, I have an issue with my car R33 GTR after swapping Rb26dett (which i killed) to Rb25det neo. Some vibrations has occured. This swap took about 12 months so i did not run my car for 12 months and i have no idea what issue can be. i have light flywheel dedicated to rb26dett with the clutch NIsmo Super Coppermix Twin Plate that i am using now with rb25det neo I am strugling with big vibrations that starts over 160km/h and go away when car accelerate faster, I can feel smaller vibrations also from 120km/h. From the range 0 -120km/h fell no vibrations almosts at all. At 250km/h can hear weird howling metal noise and i am affraid to accelerate faster. When i stop my car on traffic lights and i start drivin again i can hear one metal knock sometimes and weird rubber grinding noise. Any ideas what it can be? I am strugling with this issue for some time now, changed some parts in my drivetrain already and put a new set of tires but nothing helped. So far i checked all things related to the wheels, gearbox and engine pillows and driveshafts but all changes i have done did not helped so far. Can be this related to light flywheel not being balanced properly with rb25det neo?

47970-23U00 - where i can buy these abs rings in Australia or Japan? I found only one seller in USA but he wont ship to Europe ;/

Thats for sure, my last tuner said running rich is better, it protect the engine from destroying.....i think i have to visit second tuner anyway soon. I think i start from here. Thanks dude! Never thought about that one...never change mine yet, o_O "Or just close the window." - ...thats impossible for sure when this setup sounds so epic....:P. Just got myself a mask with ffp3 filter, i hope it helps for now. Maybe i try this Venom Catalyzer then one day, thanks guys!

No leaks, its just daily driven car no side or front pipes lol. Little wind from behind with open widnows on traffic lights and the car is full of smell, makes me sick....

Hello, I just build a new setup Rb25det + 6boost + GTX3071r gen2. Car is crazy fast and responsive on stock interenals. Gasoline smell is so nasty makes me puke, cant drive with open windows for long time. What catalyzer can i use for this setup that will last for 1-2 years at last? I dont want to blow up my engine or new turbo.... so if this is a bad idea just tell me and i will drive with the mask on my face LOL. Nengun have in the offer Apexi Catalyzer but i dont know if this one handles powers up to 500hp and will be good for my setup and wont damage anything.....what can you recommend? I just want to reduce the gasoline smell and not blow my engine. I dont care about passing the emissions....etc... Here is the link to the catalyzer i was planning to buy https://www.nengun.com/apexi/super-catalyzer

OK, thanks a lot!

ok thats a good news, my mechanic said it cant be changed. So i will find the shop that can change this in my city then

The h No i did not yet but i have only bad experiences rebulding skyline parts in my country locally because we dont have this cars here. Car is vibrating at hight speeds, some losses on joints. Never changed shafts yet but i already changed everything else in drivetriain including gearbox over past 5 years. And it happens to me again even from Japan i got bad product rebuild. I was always happy from used OEM parts, all rebuilds are trash.Was planning to buy from England used shafts at the same price so will buy used.

Yes i know this already, the ABS sensor rings are different. Too bad the seller from Japan posted the products online with correct sensor rings and sold me different ones. I really want this axles but i am affraid i will have to put a case on paypal then and send it back to him and get my money back. What else i can do? I heard these rings are not changable.... any ideas? I was thinking to take out mines and put on his axles..... I am waiting for his response regarding this issue what he can tell me about this.

How about disconnecting ABS sensors? I read these are ABS sensor rings. I dont use ABS in my car for long time and the pump is out already, maybe i shoud take out the sensors from my wheels?

Hello, I bought some time ago rebuild axle shafts for r33 gtr from one seller from Japan. We fit them yesterday and they are very harsh when turning left or right on slow speeds to stop, like parking at the supermarket etc... Driving streight at high speeds no problem, but turning is a hell. So i take them out from fear of damaging my gearbox or differentials. What is going on with this? Is my Atessa going nuts? We check them out and the axes look different at the marked red spots. So i guess the wheel sensors are getting nuts because of this? By the way what is this thing in red spot and what is this for? I am thinking maybe axes are from different model r32 or r34 or non vspec? My car is vspec with a-LSD.

I think my r33 GTR gearbox is ending cuz i can hear grinding sometimes on gears 4 and 3 ;/ I have a chance to buy gearbox from r34 GTR and do the conversion. Is this worth the money to do this? The complete swap with the gearbox will cost around 10k euro and the used gearbox from r33 gtr can buy for around 1.5k euro I heard that this r34 gtr gearboxes are stronger from r33 and r32. Is this true or not worth the money?

Hello, My front windscreen wiper mode ( the slowest periodic mode ) stoped working today. I have only normal mode and fast mode left. Whats funny is that when i put the wiper on normal mode i cant shut it down. I put the wiper switch back on off position and the wiper is still going. I need to stop my car and turn the ignition off to stop the wiper. Can this issue be related to any fuse or relay or should i look for second hand wiper switch or wiper engine maybe? Any ideas? Regards

Which bearing? I have done some more tests today with sharp launching and quick braking. When i start driving streight and release my clutch fast i can hear one loud knock or the same thing happens under heavy load when boost kicking in. It looks like something is getting loose in my chassis or drivetrian. The same thing happens with hard braking hear this one knock. This is not like squealing from bushings, thats totally different sound. Its just one loud heavy knock Anybody has this problem bofore and what parts in the car can make such a nasty sound?

Problem is that i dont know if the brake booster works efficiently. What can i expect from the second hand 20 year old booster? I did a test yesterday and disconnected brake booster and try to drive my car and the car had no braking power at all. I mean you could berely brake without booster it was so dangerous to drive, the handbrake was much better without the booster. I guess the booster is working pretty good because the difference is huge. Question is it working efficiently. I wish i could purchase the new brake booster. Do you know if this part is available somewhere in Australia, Japan or maybe USA? The part number i need is 23U11. Its the brake booster from GTS R33 since i have this one after the conversion swap RHD to LHD It can be also refabricated if you know the source where i can get one.

I bought a new tire set one month ago Goodyear Eagle F1 . and put new center rings. Problem with vibration is the same. Checked two different main driveshafts, problem is the same nothing changes. I would feel different type of vibrations i guess on two different sets. But it vibrates exactly the same way on both at the same speeds. So this is not the driveshaft balance problem. Checked the suspension on diagnostics and polly bushes. Checked engine and gearbox pillows, checked the axes and hub bearings. Everything is stiff, cant find anything suspicious. It vibrates the same way at 120km/h after changing the gear to neutral. I noticed today on testing that i can hear a 1 second grinding when i turn the stearing wheel hard to the left. But this happenes only from stop position when i start driving with wheel turn to the left. When i accelerate little bit and going straight the grinding is gone. I cant hear any grinding noise when turning the same way to the right side or turning left or right on reverse from stop position. Maybe front left driveshaft joint is failing.... Can this be related?

I have comparision how the braking works in different cars, I daily drive M5 E60 and Peugeot 407 and i am not using force on the pedal almost at all for hard and quick stopping from low speeds. After going back to my Skyline r33 when i use the same amount of force nothing happens. I need to push pedal really hard to get the same results. This is why i say the stock brakes are pretty bad in Skylines, or brake booster is too small and not doing the job.

Hello, My car is suffering from vibrations lately at 120km/h, when i pass over this speed and go higher it vibrates less and at 200km/h i can feel no vibrations at all. Thats really getting on my nerves because this car was running perfectly some time ago. I can fell the vibrations on entire car, the seat, the gearbox, its not on the stearing wheel from the tires, i have checked everything raleted to wheels including alignment. My mechanic removed tailshaft lately and put it back again but i have checked second one and the problem is the same. Is it possible to put the tailshaft incorrect way like 90 or 180 degrees? Is there any marks on the differential or gearbox how to screw the tailshaft or the position does not matter? Regards

Hello, I have changed lately brake booster (second hand ) and install new braking pump. Bleed the system 5 times. My ABS is disconnected Every time i press the brake pedal i hear one hiss sound, is that nornal or not? ( its not like a constant air leaking, just one short hiss when press ) When i press the pedal and start the engine i can feel the brake pedal is falling a little bit down. This is the only test i have done so far. The braking system is not working too well lately, i need to use a lot of force to stop the front wheels at higher speeds around 100km/h. I heard the braking system is not too good in this cars. What do you recommend to upgrade to improve the braking system? My leg is hurting sometimes from hard braking and i want to track day this car sometimes.

Plugs are in good conditiont, i put new set 3 days ago and check the spark and all 6 plugs. I checked already the coolant and its full to the top so its not burning the coolant.

Hello, I have some issues with my R33 lately. All the symptoms: - Engine knockings under acceleration on higher rpm - High exhaust temperatures EGT reached over 980 lately - White smoke coming from exhaust pipe when i start the motor on cold and dying on idle when i release gas pedal. Actually cant reach over 3000rpm on cold and it sounds weird like working on 4-5 cylinders not 6. - The car died on me 7 days ago also first time and could not start it. so i changed all the spark plugs for new ones and the car was starting like new for 3 days. After another 3 days of driving on new spark plugs the same shit happend. Cant start the motor again from yesterday. - Checked today the spark plugs fire with all coils and put different battery. So from ignition it looks ok. Is my new set of spark plugs cooked again from high EGT or motor is dying, piston rods bad compression? I havent checked that yet. Any suggestions?

GTX3071r gen2 makes up to 650hp.

Hello, I am looking for 550-600hp in my RB25. The engine is 4WD from Stagea I run GTX3071r and custom made intake and exhaust manifold already. I am planing to get forged pistons and rods soon and i have a question about the head gasket and camshafts What thikness of the head gasket should i use? Do I have to change OEM camshafts for this power or not? Can i run OEM head with this setup? Car is dailydriven not for track use thanks

yeah, just the screws from the new turbo gasket, solved, thanks!

Hello, I just got a new setup in my r33 with Garrett GT3076r turbo and stock rb25det engine. I purchased everything new, new turbo, new piping and all the wires. So my car was driving ok for about 2000km and after 1 month the strange sound is coming from the engine bay. I tried to record the sound with my microphone on gopro to diagnose which part of the engine can it be. The sound is coming near the turbo. Around the turbine the sound was the strongest so far. I was checking some components around the engine to look for a boost leak because my mechanic claims that this is from the cold side. We could not find anything for 2 days. Now tomorrow some guy is going to check my turbine and i am expecting the worst that i will have to buy a new turbine that has only 2000km on it. ;/ Is this possible that this sound comes from turbine rotor? Anybody experienced something like this before? The sound is very scratchy and sharp and its getting worst every single day and its very laud from outside. Its so loud inside of the car that i cant hear my exhaust. My tourbine is still loading the boost so far and i have this sound from 2 weeks. Dont know what the hell is this. Here is the link to the 3 videos with that sound on youtube, thanks for any suggestions. I could not find on you tube anything simillar to my case.