Tomak

r33 GTR - combustion knockings, burning oil smell?? Hello, I am experiencing sometimes combustion knockings in my r33 GTR especially on cold weather on heavy load during the night When i drive during the day on sun i dont have that problem but my car goes way slower at high temps, i think this is normal... On the night it accelerates much faster getting cold air and then i have that problem, hear the knockings (not always but sometimes ) My car was tuned up to 500HP on dyno at profi garage. On the dyno we did not heard any knocking, it got more than 20 dyno tests. So it looks like my engine is living its own life. Why is that happening and should i worry about it? When i hear this knocking sound sometimes i take my foot of the gas pedal immediately ofcourse, everybody tells me this. But i want to race my car hard on the track soon so what can i do with that problem? I was already at 3 different tuners and always have knocking at high HP between 450-500Hp. Below 450hp there is no knocking problem even during the night ;///// My engine is rebuilded, forged pistons and rods, OEM head. custom exhaust manifold with Borg Warner EFR 7064 T4 A/R 1.05 Twin scroll turbo. Tuned on LINK G4+, siemens injectors 650cc, Everything was bought brand new, invested shit load of money in that car and i dont know what to do with that. I already did 50 000 km after rebuild so the engine is still running very good for almost 3 years now..... Also i am experiencing lately big engine oil consumption. it takes 1 liter per 1000km. And i dont see anywhere any oil leaks. f**k! I have checked pressure on cylinders, its ok.... Maybe head gasket.....i dont know, i dont see any leaks on the block etc.... Maybe the seals on my turbine got messed up already? I can smell the burning oil on heavy load. When i dont go on boost and drive at stable speeds i dont smell that strong oil burn..... What do you think about all this. Any ideas? The smell is so heavy that driving with open windows is really pain on my ass. My car is getting on my nerves lately and seriously thinking about selling it after all my hard work i done to this car. Three f**king years struggling with everyf**kingthing and end up burning oil somwhere and knockings i dont know why. What the f**k! Oh yeah o forget to tell, my friend told me to sell this f**king RB26 engine and change it to RB25 NEO. What do you think about that? Its also AWD and he said much better with maitenance and once is build for a track purposes, about 500hp is a one strong matherf**ker. I am thinking to give a try with that maybe during the winter.... I went for a night drive tonight and guess what, no a single knock....yesterday big knocking like in the row one after another. how do you explained that?

Yes LHD and brake booster on hot side.... I hope this is the only a clamp not holding, its good to hear is not a head cracked. Thanks for suggestions.

R33 GTR coolant leaking I found out lately coolant leaking at the back of the engine under intake manifold. There is a pain on the ass to check this, cant see anything. I think i will have to take out my intake manifold I tracked day my car on hot weather and after 10 minutes of hard driving on the track all coolant leaked out under high pressure. After next 15 minutes all cooland was out, about 4 liters. Something is not holding right on big pressure inside the cooling system. I did not had problems like this before and have done around 50 000km after single turbo convertion. Never experineced single cooland leaking before. I am planning to do it myself with some random shop and try to fix the problem. What seals should i change or can be the thermostat? Where is the thermostat located in the r33 GTR? I am thinking also about the turbo water lines, what else should i check or change? I have only one shot after i take this intake manifold so i want to change everything i can and all the seals. I attached the photo where this cooland leaking occurs. Also this leaking is no all the time, most of the time i drive there is no leaking at all, on normal daily driving or during the night. Anybody experienced such a problem?

I didnt check it so i dont know. I just got my second fan back working, so i am done with one thing. I try to bleed it the way you said. I also notice that my spal fans were the weekest on the market from the series. I just bought a new one with bigger engine and the air sucking is much stronger. Anyway, i had a lot ot things to improve about the cooling.... everything i guess... Cooling breather tank is also good advice i think, thanks! I am going back on track next week so will see how my car performs.

How much air needs to come out and how would i know there is no more air in the system? So i start my car and open a bleed screw and what else? Wait 10-15 minutes? How much coolant needs to come out over this bleeding screw? Also do i have to keep the main valve of the water radiator close or open during this bleeding process? I have read somewhere that i need to drive first and worm up car good then open bleed screw and ll the air goes up... no?

Anybody know the OEM part number for this part? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-BCNR33-GTR-Rear-Driveshaft-Tailshaft-Shaft-7-/142298091619?hash=item2121a09063:g:8DwAAOSwSlBYt2rQ I am looking to buy new one, is it still possible, anybody knows the shop where i can buy one?

One of my spal fan stoped working, i did not expect that.... . Some shitty spal fans. What fans are you guys using? Are the mishimoto fans with the shroud way to go? I am actually using spal va10-ap10/c-61a 12v x 2 By the way the cooling bleeding was ok, i did not noticed any air inside the cooling system after 20 minutes of driving. But thanks anyway for letting me know.

Aftermarket Spal fans. Maybe i should get better fans first. That is a good idea. How to bleed properly cooling system in aftermarket Radiator MIshimoto? I thought it bleeds itself...no? I had to take out the cooling radiator some time ago so maybe i done something wrong i dont know. My car also has a new map so it can be everything now

R33 GTR engine overheating issue - low boost Hello, Just come back from a track and tested my car in high temp weather, around 25-28 Celcius My actual set up is 1.4 bar and around 500hp. Upgrades: - Mishimoto 50mm radiator - Mocal oil cooler My car actually lasted one full lap on full boost, around 4 km of the track. I am experiencing big overheating issues, then my boost drops down rapidly to around 0.8-1.0 bar. The water temperature hits the H mark. I still have AC radiator and thinking to remove it if necessary and also move the oil cooler to the side of the front bumper so the water radiator can have better air flow. Maybe there are any smaller AC radiators on the market so can be used instead of OEM ones? What else i can do to reduce the overheating issue? You guys in Australia experiencing hot weather, how do you race your cars in such a high temperatures? I need my car last around 10-15 minutes one session on full boost so i can use my 500hp not one lap....;/

R33 GTR tailshaft - Oem number Hello, Do you know where i can purchase the new one. OEM? Are these still available? What is the OEM part number?

ok, thanks

ok, ok, thanks for advices. But i really didint get the answer to my question. What is the safe milage for the bearings since you can not use them for ever...

Crank bearings - safe mileage Hello, I have rebuild my engine some time ago in R33 GTR and done already 60 000km putting new nominal crankshaft and ACl bearings. I was visiting lately one drift shop with lots of experience in Rb26 engines. They say its already time to change the bearings cuz they like to spun. True or not true and when to change them? I am using my car for daily driving and 2-3 times track days a year. Can i go up to 100 000km without any fears or should i change them now.?

That is the sound i am looking for. This one has sinco manifold but Garrett turbo. Sounds so cool. So i guess i need to work out my manifold one more time.....

Regarding my Turbo is not that responsive yet because my maps are not good, i am planning to hit next tuner in two weeks so i let you know. This guy is one of the top drifters and he already lost his teeth on RB26 engines so will see what he can do. Check out this two videos so you know what i am talking about. I used to have that howling sound in middle and high rpms on stock twin turbos from first video. The second video is my car acceleration, with my smartphone xperia but i guess the recording device does not have anything to do with that. That magic sound is just gone in my r33 GTR after convertion to Single. What i mean is that the sound is basicly flat from low rpms to hight rpms, its not increasing dractically but just a little bit. This sound ot stock GTR always used to remaind me the sound of the a cow graze on a pasture, it sounds like muuuuuuuuuuu and i am missing that a lot LOL. I dont think this was because of the muffler cus i have the same all the time. HKS dragster and other one i used is HKS silencer hi power with middle muffler also then and now. So i think the biggest impact on that sound must have a manifold design. What other good sounding manifold can you recommend for better turbo response and better sound ?. The problem with my manifold is that its not dedicated to r33 GTR but just a random tuning company has produce this to me. I have a picture of this manifold also so you can see yourself. I just want to have that big fat cow back in my car (howling sound), i dont care how loud is the exhaust or to have 10 screamers pipes all around the car. I bet that this sound was coming from the engine bay not from the end exhaust system. Is that possible? Just watch both videos so you understand.

RB26 single turbo sound Hello, I was wondering what is the problem that the sound of my r33 GTR after converting from stock twin turbo to single turbo has changed drastically. I used to run a stock ECU and stock Garrett turbos before. Now i have an ECU Link G4+ and Single turbo Borg Warner EFR 7064 T4 A/R 1.05 Twin scroll. The sound of the stock Rb26 with stock twin turbos is totally different and i have tested on the same muffler. What i mean by different is that now my car sounds much softer than it used to sound on twin turbos. I dont know if the problem is with the convertion from twin turbo and single turbo but i prefered the sound of stock twin turbos. It used to be much deeper and heavier and cooler on acceleration. I dont know if only me have that problem or maybe this is something with the maps in my new ECU Link G4+. ? What do you think about it? I am considering to go back to twin turbos someday to see the difference. Or this is just the single turbo sound? Maybe i get better sound when i put back the Garrett single turbo, what do you think about this? Can i get a different sound with different turbo manufacturer? Is it worth the changing? What turbo can you reccoment in this case....?

Not good. I just bought just one used from drivers side and the glass has small cracks. Now i need to live with that what i can do. Its very difficult to buy a headlight in good condition and new once costs too much money. I would need a pair anyway so this is not an option for me. How about headlight covers from gts or gtst r33, Would they fit or not?

R33 GTR front headlight covers - new ones Anybody heard about these ones? Front headlight covers for r33 GTR. Where can i buy them? Is it possible to get them separately or only with complete headlight. Just bought one headlight lately and the glass is cracked. My old one is also cracked. Need a pair of new ones just the glass covers, thanks!

Its very stiff/hard at the end . IN the up position is normal, it works soflty ... im talking about the brake pedal.

I have never messed with the brakes yet. So i think they are totally stock. I have changed only pads one time. Can sombody tell how much is the M/C anyway and what is the part number? I am planning to change the brake disc for now for DBA 4000 t3. My old brake disc looks also worn and probably they are stock. Maybe this helps to get better braking Changing brake fuid is also a good point. I dont know if i ever changed it since bought the car ;/ Its been 3 years now and 50 000km. What fluid do you recommend...? Any DOT5 is good?

R33 GTR brake pump part number Hello, I am guessing that my pump is worn, i need to use lots of force to brake my car, It sounds like the brake assist is not working too good. Anyway i am planning to buy a new pump. Can sombody send me the oem part number for this brake pump please. I think i am talking about master cylinder

OEM radiator for R33 GTR - second hand price Hello, What is the price for second hand used radiator with fan for r33 GTR in Australia?

Thanks, this is what i needed I dont know yet what is damaged looks nasty, i hit the guys towing hook and the radiator almost hit the engine. Thanks God it was low speed because i am after engine rebuilding. Where can i find such a parts catalogue online for r33 GTR?. Can you send me the link?

R33 GTR - need the part number Hello, Just crashed my car yesterday ;/ Need the part number of the front radiator frame. It got twisted and i dont want to repair it. Just want to buy new one or used. PLease see attached picture, the red lines indicate the part i need. What is the name of this part or part number? thanks

R33 GTR LinkG4+ engine knockings Hi, I am experiencing engine knockings on my new maps on Link G4+ in Skyline r33 GTR. Can anybody check my maps and see what possible can be wrong over there? I am using also my old maps that are ok without any knocking. My old maps are password protected so this is my problem. Cant see any settings over there. I dont have a good relationship with that tuning shop and iam strugling now with my new tuner to run new maps but we are experiencing this problems with knockings. ;/ My new tuner cant help it so far....