Tomak

Link G4+ topic Hi, Cant find any topic regarding ECU maps, need a help with my maps on LINKG4+ ecu

Yo, i am running my car for 2 weeks now with Patrol y61 gearset. Feels no difference almost, just need to change gears faster from 1 up to 4, the 5th gear i have from Skyline so can go top speed. So it was worth the money, i just saved lots of money from buying new from Japan. But i have a bad luck and need to take my gearbox out 4th time cuz the synchro from 5th gear grinds and nothing getting better after 2 weeks hahahahaha..... I put all new synchros to my gearbox the first time the shop rebuild my gearbox so this is a joke and this is how it goes ;/ At least i am driving...need to take my gearbox out next week again. They are claiming now that the synchro got f**ked after taking out several times. Its funny that from 1-4 works good then, so what is the point?

This all went wrong from the beginning, i just lost 1500 USD and 6 months of my time and all this just to buy new gearbox from Japan ;/ Damn it! This mechanic was trusted one, refered by my friend. I did not came to him from the street to a random shop.......and said hey buddy fix my gearbox from Skyline GTR.....they specializes in Nissan gearboxes for drift mode too. Now i can only cry and accept my next lesson about Skyline hard way as usual. The first rule with this type of car should be. Alwas buy OEM new parts and thats it. One simple rule and life would be much easier. And now i can only blame the shop not the horse power or torque. I just dont know.....

Hi, Just the question about input shaft for gearbox for r33 GTR. Is this input shaft the same for GTR AWD and GTS RWD ? I am wondering now if my mechanics put inside the input shaft from GTS as used part because i dont think that they had used parts from GTR So if this fits no problem maybe the input shaft from GTS is less stronger so it broke so easy. I have done only 3000km after changing this input shaft and check this out what happened on the picture. I paid them already once to change for me all synchros and bearings and main shaft almost 1000 USD Then second time they changed form me this input shaft for used one for another 250 USD and now they are saying that it was used so it could broke any time..... So actually i could buy maybe new input shaft OEM for GTR and had my gearbox run for long time and this way they f**ked up my gearbox. I told them before it was 500hp not stock So now they are building for me the gearbox for 3rd time for another 250 USD but free labor. Should i pay them this 250 USD or tell them to go f**k yourself that i want this gearbox for free this time. I have invoices for both labors and parts issued from this company for the 1st and 2nd rebuilding. I am really mad now for this what had happened. If this gearbox will break again on Patrol gearset i will tel them to go f**k yourself anyway and buy new one what else i can do? Also what interesting is when i asked them if this input shaft could not fit correctly. They said it would be not possible to drive that long and i would destroy this gearbox much faster but i have done 3000km accelerating really hard sometimes on the highway. Whats funny is that this broke on stable driving without almost any acceleration. Just put slightly pressure on the gas pedal on 4th gear. So what do you think about this? And just one more question. Does all this could happened because of light flywheel or not? I had OEM flywheel before. Thanks for advice, and here is my picture:

if i had only such a money to spend without fear of breaking it again.....sure no problem. Ok lets test the Patrol option then and see how it goes from there. thanks!

So as far as i understood Os Giken makes ratio for 1st gear 2.695 so you can probably do about 60mph at 8000rpm at have higher speed on first gear. So what speed i will have on Patrol gearset with ratio 4.556 on 1st gear? For me it means that i will have to change gears more often because gears are shorter now than from OEM gearbox now. Can sombody confirm this please.?

Yes, Patrol Navara Y61 RD2.8. Maybe i wrote incorrect gearbox model i dont know. He said just input shaft need to be modified and cut because is too long and thats it. I am all lost in gear ratios. Can sobody explain what difference in car response can i get in Os Giken ratios and Patrol ratios? I want to focus only on 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Os Giken close ratio 1st - 2.695 2nd - 1.703 3rd - 1.236. http://www.neweraparts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=54&CategoryID=141&List=0&Level=a&productid=42 So the Patrol ratios goes in different direction than Os Giken so the car probably will have worse performance......? I thought the Os Giken ratios are shorten for better acceleration so the Patrol has longer gears. Maybe in drift mode this does not have big difference but what in daily driving or track use? I just put inside Nismo Copper Clutch with light flywheel for better car response so i dont want to go back now for worse response on 1,2 and 3 gears...... I dont think to do any diff modifications for now, this is too much for me and i dont know where to do this anyway. The OEM Skyline ratios are 1st - 3.214 2nd-1.925 3-1.302 1.000 0.752 ) Os Giken close ratio 1st - 2.695 2nd - 1.703 3rd - 1.236. Patrol Gearbox ratios 1st 4.556 2nd 2.625 3rd 1.519 4th 1.000 5th 0,836 rev 4.245

I just visited my mechanic today and my gearbox is totally f**ked, the 4th gear is messed up on both shafts, so i need the advice. My actuall options: 1. Buy another used one, check it, and have a hope that nothing breaks. - 1000 USD. 2. Wait a while around 2-3 months and build new one on Os Giken internals - around 3000-5000 USD and i dont have any shop in Poland who can do this for me with experience anyway. My mechanic can build it, but first time in his life ;/ Would you risk that kind of money? 3. My mechanic said he can build another one on Nissan Patrol internals gearbox model FS5R50A which is more stronger and has thicker gears teeth. They actually build three of them in Skyline drift cars so have experience in this modification already. Cost only 250 USD in this option and can have it in one week. I can use the rest of my unbroken parts from my Skyline gerbox, shafts and synchros. The only problem are the gear rations ( The OEM Skyline ratios are 3.214 1.925 1.302 1.000 0.752 ) So it looks like only the 4th is the same. What do you think about this patrol ratios. Is it going to be less responsive and has less power at red line on 1,2 3 gear or what other problem can i have with longer gear ratios?...., less power or torque, problem with starting to drive from 1st gear etc...? Patrol Gearbox ratios 1st 4.556 2nd 2.625 3rd 1.519 4th 1.000 5th 0,836 rev 4.245

How about the 6spd gerbox from r34 GTR? Does it have stronger internals or not?

redline lightweight shockproof gear oil - this is interesting, thanks for the advice. I have seen this lately online....so anybody run this set up in the car? The price is not that horrible for something that will last for long time http://www.neweraparts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=54&CategoryID=141&List=0&Level=a&productid=42 What do you think about that?

So far it look like every two races i need to fix the gearbox. I went one time for track pushing my car hard and this time just went for long trip for holidays about 3000km of constant driving on highway but not pushing my car very hard at all.;/ So the best option is to have another used gearbox in the garage for quick replacement and then fix the other one. But seriously i havent push my car hard yet at all. So if this gearbox breaks so easily what other options do i have? Is it possible to put different better gearbox for any reasonable money? So why you not put different gearbox for example sequential quaife. I guess you are racing all the time if you breaks so many?? Its not worth the money or what is the problem?

Wow, nice...its good to know ;/ My gearbox is old so i dont know if there is any sense to replace parts again and have a hope nothing breaks. What other options do i have to fix that problem so i can drive my car without damaging the gearbox for at least two seasons? I am considering buying now genuine new gearbox. Is it going to fix my problem or not with actual setup: Car is pushing 500hp with Nismo Coppermix twin plate clutch with light flywheel. I use this car for daily driving and occasional track days, 1-2 a year. I am not planning to do any 1/4 mile launches etc. New gearbox cost around $3000, is it worth it or not? Does anybody has any experience with new gearboxes and how fast they breaks?

When this shit happened i was doing about 100km/h and the 4th gear dropped suddenly to neutral itself when i started to accelerate from stable driving. I know i should stoped imediately but its not easy to do when driving with loud exhaust and you dont know what is going on. Actually i put 4th gear back again and continue to drive about 2km so i was on the highway anyway and need to find parking space. Making this video wont make things worse i guess. Gearbox was actually 10 000km after rebuilding. Some shop done the rebuilding for me specializing in skyline gearboxes. Question is what type of bearings they used OEM or aftermarket. I think the bearing inside the gearbox got messed up like input shaft bearing or something. Is this possible? I wont get my answer for 2 weeks now because of holidays. My car is back in shop again. Next week i get gearbox fluid out to see if there are some iron fillings inside.

Gearbox loud knocking sound r33 GTR Hello, Have done about 4000km after gearbox rebuild and putting new Nismo clutch Coppermix twin plate, something broke again just today during slight acceleration on 4th gear. It was not even hard acceleration. My gearbox was fully rebuild on new bearing, synchros etc. Horrible loud knocking sound that goes away when clutch pedal depressed. You can hear this here. Dont know really what to do next with all this. This is devastating for me and will have to take my gearbox out again for the 6th time this year. ;/ What could possible went wrong this time? Enybody experience something like this before?

It happened to be only release bearing not placed at the right position inside the clutch. Only one side was inside, i dont know how this is possible but had to take everything out again. We used more force this time to hooked up the release bearing with the clutch. It looks like all is ok now. I got paranoid yesterday and still learning about my car the hard way as always.

NIsmo Clutch installation problems Hi, I have another problem. Just come back from new clutch installation Coppermix twin plate clutch pull type for my r33 GTR The first test drive was ok and the clutch and gears worked properly. I test drived my car for about 2-3km come back to my mechanics to pay. When i come back to my car and start driving again the clutch start making big squeaking noise when pushing the clutch pedal and changing geras. I also notice that the clutch pedal got some vibrations when released. I put new NIsmo set, light flywheel with twin clutch plate, new release bearing and new pilot bearing and also new slave cylinder I think i have changed everything about the clutch except the master cylinder or the clutch pump you call it. Can it be the issue with clutch master cylinder or pedal clutch adjustment or something went wrong during the clutch installation?

Has anybody converted the spigot Bush to needle roller type? There should be needle type and there would be not a problem i guess. Most of the cars as far i know have needle type. Is it possible or not?

Hi, Is this normal that during the hard accelerations on weather temperatures around 32 Celsius the smoke coming out from transfer case inside the car? I can actually see the white smoke. The smoke is in white colour and very light and not every time. My mechanic said its just burned oil and its very hard to break transfer case or burn the clutch. I put there Dextron 3 ATF red oil. When the weather is colder i dont have any problems with the smoke.

I am changing input shaft for new one on Monday. Ok i will test the crank with dial indicator also, thanks!

ok, thanks

Poland, Kraków ..... i am going throught hell with this car here. I have never seen Skyline GTR in Poland in my life before i bought one lol. Anybody has the part number for OEM spigot bush please for R33 GTR!? ....as far as i know the spigot bush was not lubricated with anything during last gearbox installation. I dont remember anybody put anything in there. I was watching all procedure. ;/

1. Yes the input shaft is Nissan OEM. It was straight to the and without the step and something eat it. 2. My engine was also completly rebuild with forged rods and pistons. I bought a new crankshaft N1. The engine runs very good and does not have any vibrations. When i put all together the car was running in the perfect way for 2-3 months. Then this input shaft started to break. So i dont think the problem is from the engine. Dont even scare me....it would be the devastating for me when i spend 6000 USD to fix the engine. The input shaft looks like melted at the end and has the step now. I am asking why this material is so week and this can happen? it was perfectly straight to the end when i put my gerbox on 15000km ago. it should not happens something like this in sport cars on this level. I am really frustrated. ;/ The worst thing about it is that you cant drive normally on 3rd gear there are big vibrations. 3. What is the different between auto and manual spigot bush? Can i have any part numbers to correct OEM spigot bush? My mechanic said that in this case what happened the spigot bush shoud get damaged not input shaft. That this is weird to him what happened. But maybe you are right about gearbox alignment Maybe the spigot bush got damaged when bolting up the gearbox.

Gearbox shaft clutch r33 GTR problem - HELP! Hi, I have a big problem with my gerbox. The problem is exactly with the shaft clutch or the sleeve i dont know.... The shaft clutch is damaged again and i can feel the vibrations inside my car usually on 3rd gear. The Sleeve i had was not original Japan but custom made from bronze. Now, i have done only 15 000 km from fixing my gearbox first time. I have changed the shaft clutch for the new one last time so this shit happend second time already. The shaft clutch is broken second time already the same way as you can see on the pictures.(pittings on the end) I was running Spec Clutch all the time Stage 2 and Stage 3+ second time My gearbox was copletly rebuild on OEM bearings and all other parts the first time this happened. I took apart this gearbox again today ( second time ) My mechanic said the gerabox is all ok. So what can be the problem with this shaft clutch? My car is pushing only 450HP and is used only for daily driving. I dont even race this car or launch it on 1/4 mile.....and this shit breaks so easily ;/ Has anyone encountered anything like this before? By the way can anybody send me the part number for the sleeve shaft clutch for r33 GTR? I am planning now to put the OEM sleeve and change the clutch for Nismo Coopermix. Maybe this will solve my problem because i dont have any more ideas what else can be done to fix this problem.... any suggestions?

Yo, Acceleration from 100 to 200km in around 8.5s. Is this good for 500hp or what do you think? Boost 1.4-1.5 OEM weight of the car

It slips and the pressure plate got twisted from the heat. The Spec 2 last only 20 000km and sterted to slip and the disc ended glued together with pressure plate so i could not put any gear ;///// My car was pushing only 400hp They are making really shit disc this days.....You pay lots of money and think you buy a good thing and this is what you get. I have spent almost 1000 USD for this piece of shit.