the stink

do you still have the turbos? tried to pm but you box is full...

i started to do something similar but was going to use a full ecu. i bought and installed a shift kit valve body but after driving the car for about half an hour i took the shift kit back off because i found it too harsh and rather irritating to drive around normally. my understanding is that it does remove the need to have the auto computer retard the timing on the gear change but i would suggest having a ride in a car with the kit before you jump in.

I hooked up a datalogger to my 4 speed auto in my R33 and found 4 wires of interest Pin56 - Throttle position sensor signal to gbox (variable voltage) Pin5 - Was some sort of decelleration signal that seemed to trigger when decelleration was above a certain level. Signal from gbox to main ecu (goes low on activation) Pin 14 - Power upshift signal which activated on 1-2 or 2-3 upshifts at high throttle. From gbox to main ECU (goes low on activation) Pin 15 - Was some sort of acceleration signal that seemed to trigger above a certain throttle position but this varied a little. Main ecu to gbox (goes high on activation) Might be similar in the 5 speeds but i don't know for sure... I would be interested to find out more about what is happening in the computers but there doesn't appear to be much info around. neil

If you decide you want the stage 2 i have a MV valve body for sale at the moment for $250. Did about 20k on my car before i decided it was too firm and i changed it back to stock.

Was fitted to my car for about 2 weeks but have decided it wasn't what i was after. This is the one in the ongoing group buy which costs $385 if you want to keep the original valavebody like you can with this one. Will supply new brass plugs as came with it originally. Located in WA but will cost approx $30 to post. asking $280 PM me for details neil

It may reduce the wear to the friction surfaces but the shock loads on the drivetrain are now a lot higher. From what i hear the diff and gearsets in the transmission are pretty strong but i'm sure it would reduce the life of these to some extent. Uni joints would be the things to keep an eye on. But in the end i guess this is no different to any other mod you do to your car, there is always a longevity penalty to be paid for performance.

did it my self...

My problem is mostly the 1st - 2nd shift and to a lesser extent the 2nd - 3rd shift, 3rd - 4th seems unchanged. When it changes i just feels like the gear is engaged too quickly. At modest throttle levels (what i would call normal acceleration) the change jerks your head back even though you arent really going that quick. At full throttle i can feel the tyres break traction for a little bit and the car has a short burst of acceleration. Apart from being quite irritating i think this puts a lot of extra stress on the drivetrain. Keep in mind my engine is dead stock so i can't imagine what it would be like on some thing with a bit more poke. I have spoken to MV automatics about it and he has offered the 'next level down' which is supposed to be 30-40% of what i have, however he has said the brass plugs that replace the springs and modify the overlap stay. I'm thinking it may be the overlap change which is the source of my irritation. Anyway i have decided to go back to stock. This was in part something i wanted to try to reduce stress on the tranny when i get an aftermarket ECU, but i think it will just spend more time making sure its electronically interfaced and doing what it should. This isn't a slight against MV Automatics or there product it just wasn't what i am after.

Its a stage 2 kit which he said is the one he normally supplies... I think it's the same as everyone else in this thread has been getting but couldn't find a mention on the first page.

I bought one of these and think the shifts are way too hard... as a result mine is up for sale if anyone is interested. Link here. I'm in WA.

I read the following post on the perthstreetbikes site a few years ago when i started riding and found it very useful for making sure my head was in the right place when i got on my bike. keep safe peeps. Perthstreetbikes The text for those that can't be bothered signing up ----------------------------------------- Motorbikes are dangerous. Everything that old lady says to you under her breath at the traffic lights is true. Everything your mother said to you when you first got your bike is true. Do we do it because it’s an inexpensive method of transport? Hell no. Dont kid yourself. Take depreciation, insurance, maintenance cost, protective clothing costs, modifications, all those ….. ‘bits’ that you buy just because its your baby…. my bike would cost me way more each year than the Jaguar in the garage. Is it because its convenient? If you call not being able to store or carry anything and have to walk around carrying a helmet, jacket, gloves, whilst wearing boots that aren’t made for walking convenient. I own a Vespa. I can store two helmets in it, it has a shopping bag hook, costs nothing to insure, run, maintain and doesn’t depreciate. It has small brakes, tiny wheels, crappy rubber, no power and yet I consider it safer than my Gixer. The only reason for this is because I cant speed on it and I cant do 115kph around the Mill Point Road off ramp on it, and I cant wheelie it (yet) and the chances are if I come off, I am not going to be going that quick. I don’t own a GSX-R1000 arguably one of the fastest out of the box bikes on this planet for fuel economy, for parking convenience, to get through peak-hour traffic, to be good to the environment. The thing will go 25kph faster than the highest Western Australian posted speed limit.... in 1st gear..... and get there faster than you can say “two all beef patties”. Is that really necessary?. No. I own it because of the feeling I get when I twist my wrist on the freeway onramp to merge with traffic and within a fraction of a second I am doing the same speed as the cages. I do it because of the rush when you really nail your favourite corner and are on the gas half hanging off your bike and you leave a big blacky to look at next time. I do it because of the pure unadulterated selfishness of just you and your thoughts. I do it because I am uncontactable and dont have to answer my mobile phone for a little while. I do it because I am sitting on a machine whose mechanical ability is far greater than my talents.. but kriky I am going to have a try. I do it because I am happy to sit at 80kph on the freeway and look at cars (and bikes) that go past and think to myself. … “yeah I can beat him”. I do it because of the feeling you get when you nail a nice wheelie, and I do it because of the comradeship of riding and hanging with my buddies…who cares where. Do I do it because it’s dangerous? No. Not intentionally. Is it dangerous? Absolutely, undeniably, you bet it is. Would I go for a ride on my bike tonight if I knew that tomorrow my wife would be widowed or just like our good friend Aza there was a real chance that I could suffer a life changing injury? Hell no I would not. None of us would. But this risk is present EVERY TIME we put our leg over it. And this is the quandary as a semi intelligent individual that I constantly consider. Every time I get off my bike when I get home and go through the actions of locking it to its wall plate, and throwing the bike cover over it I consciously think to myself “a good ride, Im still intact”. Just like you guys, I am not going to go through life not doing these things just because there is a high probability of you getting hurt. Some of you may think that when your numbers up, its up. You could go to work one day in a building in New York a few years ago, sit down at your PC and start drinking your morning coffee and someone decides to intentionally fly a 737 into the side of it. The fact of the matter is, the chances of probability of this happening to any of us is low, but if you ride a bike, these chances change… dramatically. The statistics show it. Its undeniable and plain as day. Every time your odometer clicks over one more klm, the sooner one of our numbers is going to come up - small drop or life threatening fall. Unfortunately, the statistics are also now becoming obvious to us all as PSB forum users. Back when we had 20 registered users, we never knew anyone that had an accident. You would just read about it in the paper, but now there are 400 users and growing daily, the statistics begin to show. We all now either know someone personally or know of someone indirectly that has had an accident. The reality is, as the forum continues to grow, statistics say this will get worse not better. If we want to continue to do what it is we all enjoy we have to be smarter than regular road users and try to bend the statistics to be a little more in our favour: Don’t speed on busy roads with lots of cross streets. Look left and right at the lights before you ride through them. Limit the use of your bike if possible for just enjoyment so that you don’t ride in ‘auto pilot’ mode whilst riding too and from work, take your cage instead. Choose your locations for fun carefully. Consider every car you approach as a threat. Consider every car that stops at a stop sign and looks in your direction as not being able to see you. Think yourself invisible. Look for an escape route in every situation and have that locked in ready to use. Always over indicate your intentions. Lane split stationary cars at lights so that your not the meat in the sandwich for that car behind you that isn’t going to stop in time (sorry Jellyback). Keep your distance from people you don’t normally ride with. Wear as much protective gear as the circumstances and climate will allow in order - head, hands, feet, torso, pants. Position yourself on the road where everyone can see you and where you have as much time to react as possible. Most importantly, understand you and your bike’s limits, ride to within them and not someone else’s. If you feel uncomfortable or feel that you are being dragged beyond your skills – Back the Hell Off ! Listen to that voice in your head. The human body has an amazing ability to tell you when you are on the edge. Everyone will wait for you up the road or the next meeting point. We can’t stop the unpredictable and the real danger we put ourselves in every time we press 'start', but we can sure help make the odds better in our favour. Be safe people. Choose your time. Deej

updates? I reckon its an alignment issue... I have a 0.5 degree castor difference between sides which i have been told is the cause of a similar issue. I think my castor rod bushes are also flogged out so that doesn't help either.

I would suggest that when you say something is 'better' than something else you should back that up with an explanation of why. Popularity is not neccessarily an indication of superiority... for example VHS vs beta video. I have not had personal experience with either but from what i have seen the new wolfs have a lot of features, and certainly are certainly a lot more capable than the difference in price with a higher end autronic or motec would suggest. The only criticisms with any justification i have heard is a lack of load axis map points and the fact that the software is too complicated because on the number of features. I have played with the software and it seems ok but i can't comment on the load point thing. The PFC seems more popular mostly due to the simplicity of installation and tuning rather than any technical reason, which is definitely something in its favor. Like others have said it really comes down to what the person tuning it is capable and what you are trying to do. I a seriously considering a wolf at the moment and the amount of functionality is a real selling point to me... I like to be able to tinker and i think more features mean more flexibility to try thing later. If i had the money i would go for a motec with all the bells and whistles.

I would have thought that disconnecting a sensor would make the stock computer go into limp home mode... the standard oxygen sensor is only good if your chasing a afr near 14.7 but with a wideband should be able aim higher with a fair amount of accuracy.... i believe you can go as high as 20:1 but i think you would need to keep a close eye on the exhaust temp around there. You are probably right about not needing to be closed loop assuming it is well tuned. I have access to SAFC so perhaps it is something i will try first. thanks

What i want to do is to adjust the fueling to improve fuel economy on the highway which is 90% of what i use my car for. A piggy back won't help when the computer is in closed loop mode. I did think about disabling the oxygen sensor to trying to make it stay in open loop all the time but i suspect it wouldn't work and is not my prefered solution. An added benefit with an aftermarket ECU is the possibilty of using a wide band O2 sensor and possibly implementing a lean cruise closed loop mode. I haven't heard of anyone getting an aftermarket ECU to talk to to the factory auto properly but i suspect that due to limited demand not that many people have really tried. paul are you saying that main ecu decides when the gearbox is going to change? because i would have thought all of this would happen in the auto computer, with a signal back to the main ECU to say 'hey im about to change gear". Obviously the main ECU decides what to do when it gets this signal. The problem i can see is finding the signal and turning it into something an aftermarket ecu recognises. Looking at the info for the wolf v500 it has a provision to modify the ignition and fuel delivery based on user defined aux inputs, so it would just be a matter of configuring however much ignition retard when that "change gear" signal is present. Thinking about it further i don't think it would be overly difficult to use a microcontroller like a PIC to capture the signals you want and turn them into a usable output assuming some information is available on how it works..... I haven't been able to find anything so far

OK... I have done some searching for myself and found the following RB25DET wiring diagram and also Generic nissan ECU register table So it looks like there are 2 wires into the main ECU and 2 wires out (not necessarily all to the auto computer) and the registers for the Auto computer include throttle pos sensor,engine RPM and vehicle speed which may come from the main ECU or directly from the sensors. There is also registers for the throttle closed switch and what i think is Wide open throttle position switch which may or may not come from the main ecu. P,N,D,2,1 and overdrive are all obviously switches and i think 'shift s/v a' and 'shift s/v b' could be the power/snow switch for the auto because nothing else seems to fit. Which leaves kickdown switch - as im guessing the auto comp makes all the shift decisions i would assume this is a signal to the main ecu that the gearbox is going to drop a gear. Powershift switch - same as above except going up a gear. ASCD - od cut - ? ASCD - cruise - ? hold sw - ? overrun/c s/v - ? Can anyone confirm any of this???

Has anyone tried to get an aftermarket ECU to talk to an auto trans computer in an r33. I would like to be able to fiddle with the fuel loops particularly in closed loop mode but i still want the engine/trans to behave like they do from the factory. I have been looking at the wolf v500 and it seems to have the capability to retard ignition or cut fuel based on an eternal signal (say power upshift) assuming thats how the 2 computers communicate . Can anyone tell me the signals between the computers are as simple as a wire for power upshift, downshift, etc or if there is more to it. cheers neil

I would be interested to find out what is required to remap an R33 ECU... Any chance of that other thread or maybe a few links?

Saying a filter is a filter is like saying a lada is essentially the same as a porshe... like any other manufactured product the difference between products always comes down to the quality of materials used and the workmanship. Its hard to gauge the quality of an oil filter because you can’t see the size of particles it lets past and the implications of it not working don’t become apparent for a long time. I know the other generic stuff like light globes supercheap sell (where you can get a fair idea of quality just by looking at it) are the crappiest looking things I have seen. Branded stuff is different because it’s a known quantity most of the time and I haven’t always found supercheap to be the best priced for this stuff anyway. As they say you get what you pay for so in the end and if I am going to spend $60-70 on oil I don’t mind spending more than 3 bucks on a filter I know will work. On a different note the other reasons I so strongly dislike this chain of stores is because I know how good it used to be when it was marlows in term of having knowlegable staff, good prices and decent gear…. And their farking ads now make me want to take to the TV with a hammer.

I would rather slam my balls in a door than buy generic parts from supercheap... The reason the stuff there is cheaper is because its complete shite!

im after the front right plastic undertray thingo that goes from under the spoiler halfway up the wheel arch is you still have it... to suit a S2.

sounds like the float in the carby isn't shutting properly... this will cause extra fuel to leak into the engine when its running and has fuel pressure, or when the fuel level in the tank is higher than the carb (ie full tank or parked on a hill). You can check it by taking the air filter off and having a look down the carby when you in a situation where it normally won't start... if you can see fuel running out this is the problem. also the oil will be thin and smell very petroly. normally this is caused by crap being sucked up from the fuel tank. normally you can just pull the carby apart and clean it and all will be good, or go crazy and buy a carby kit. make sure you install an inline fuel filter if it doesn't already have one.

A CBR1000RR fireblade doing low 10's for $19000 new from the dealer Had my R33 for over a year... cost $18k imported and on the road $40 to replace the buggered rear speakers $15 for new wiper blades

it is a waste but whatever floats your boat i guess... the problem i see is you spend money on the components, then again to get them fitted and working, then fairly regularly to upgrade or repair all the other little things that go wrong or can't cut it when you bump the power up significantly only to make the car less attractive to the majority of potential buyers when it comes time to sell. heavily modified cars only really appeal to a small segment of the population and even then a lot of tinkerers seem to prefer to start with a stock car too. Rather than spend money on my car i would rather get another toy... like a sportsbike :lol:

My engine is a RB25DET in a 96 R33 S2. I first noticed it was making a noise near the timing cover about 5000kms ago but recently after changing the timing belt it appears to have got a lot worse. The noise is worst when the engine is cold and fast idling at around 1000RPM, over 1500 RPM it disappears completely and once the engine warms up and the idle revs drop it quietens down a lot too. The noise is a strange sort of rattling like something is loose. I have done a search and found a post which describes a similar noise and someone suggested it might be failing timing belt idler or tensioner bearings, and while the noise does sort of match with this, when i changed the timing belt i checked these bearings and they didn't feel at all loose. I was thinking it may be something to do with the VCT solenoid on the intake cam pulley but i don't know enough about whats inside to say if this is possible. I did read the cam timing solenoid switches on at 1200 and off at 5000 rpm which may have some significance. Anyone have any possible explanations?