the stink

I like the matte/satin look.... very stealth bomber. Would make it look like it was made for business, especially if you could fit some laser guided bombs or something :lol: But like someone else has mentioned you would probably get raped when it came time to sell. It's interesting too see everyone’s comments, but given the number of hideous skylines I’ve seen with awful bodykits/spoilers/mags or with neons its hard to tell with the internet if the person giving the advice has even the slightest clue themselves.

No i'm afraid we cant... there isn't any excuse to own one of these... ever.

i would go a new turbo diesel hatch, but they are priced aroung the high 20's low 30's so probably out of your price range. diesel is more expensive but diesel engines are more efficient so they end up costing less to run assuming difference between the price of diesel and petrol doesn't get too extreme. or you can go to the local truck stop with a jerry can peugeot 307 1.6 HDi $30k 6.1 l/100km city 4.3l/100km highway VW golf 1.9 trendline TDi $28k economy is slightly worse than peugeot i think only thing with these might be the cost of servicing/spares.... at least you would save on spark plugs.

I don't think mr nissan would go to the trouble of including these rails just for cosmetic purposes as they are under the car where only your mechanic will see them ... sure they might not be true chassis rails like on ye olde cars, but they still are a structural part of the monocoque chassis and they look to add a lot of strength to the floor. I think the vehicle examination people are quite right to expect it to be in good condition and its a bit of a worry that chassis specialists dismiss a big dent like that so lightly. The other thing you need to make sure is that it hasn't twisted or bent the rest of the chassis. its a 99% probablility the rail is spot welded and to remove it the easist thing to do is buy a special spot weld removing drill bit and drill them out. you are then left with a hole one side (in this case in the floor pan) that you can plug weld from inside the car to attach the new rail. The bigger problem i think you will have is getting access to the rail where it looks to sit inside another rail section and no doubt there will be access problems elsewhere. Unpicking spot welds is time consuming and fiddly work. like someone else said 2k sounds about right to do the job properly....

easiest and probably cheapest thing to do is sell it and and get a factory turbo version of the same model... imports 101 have 2 reasonable looking R34 4 door turbos for around the 21k mark imported and on the road. Add 1000 to get the inevitable scratchs/dents fixed and your probably still ahead of what it would cost to get someone to do a turbo conversion.

sims metal in welshpool let you dump the pieces for free.... actually they will probably give you about 5c depending on how much it weighs...

hey ive got an idea. why dont we make fun of the person who speaks english as a second language.... you know break the monotony of getting pissed and beating the missus.

a mechanical clicking from behind the dash when you turn on the ignition could be a fault with one of the vent solenoid drive mechanisms. i have this problem with my car depending on how the climate control zones are set. from what i can gather its a common problem with the 33's... do a search you will find a few threads about it. if this is your prob then i have read its just easier to live with as you have to remove the entire dash to get access to replace it.

Please stop saying you need some back pressure on the exhaust of NA engines... As was mentioned earlier you don't need any back pressure, as this is just wasted energy, what you actually want is a small enough pipe to allow exhaust scanvenging. This is where the momentum of the flow of exhaust gas in the exhaust effectively helps suck the gases out of the cylinders. This is of benefit at lower RPM where the volumetric efficiency of the engine is low. Putting a bigger pipe will help peak power at higher RPM where volumetric effieciency is higher but at lower RPm you will loose out and have a less driveable engine. Again as has been said there is a big difference between a drivable engine that feels fast and strong and one which makes a higher number on a dyno.

Are you selling the wheels? What size, do you have a photo and how much?

I'm looking for the front right plastic inner guard thing that goes from the underside of the bumper and protects the inside of the bumper from stuff thrown off the tyre. Its for a R33 series 2 Cheers

I imported my R33 S2 4 door thru danny last month. Everythink went smooth, he's a top bloke.