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Ah right, so it's just because I've got a ridiculous clutch.. that's ok then. It definitely only occurs when slipping the clutch; if I launch or pull of spiritedly, it's like a dream!

Hi, I spent a few minutes after work making this video: - https://vid.me/SsST (very prominent) https://vid.me/TXKc (pulling off a little more quickly) It's reproducing an issue that I'm having with my car right now which sounds horrible. Basically, whenever I pull away in first, it usually (more so when pulling away very very gently), makes that horrible scraping sound. That's a particularly bad sounding one as I attempted about 20 times to get the worst sound one that it makes and tried to prolong it. The clutch is a triple plate clutch greddy and has no problem holding a lot of power, as you would imagine a clutch like this could, and can launch without problems just fine. I hardly ever launch it but I did a few lately just to test for any issues and it was fine. I spoke to one of the guys who's worked on my car before and I was told that it was probably just an unsprung clutch and that the sound was not a problem, as long as I could put up with how horrible it sounds. I'm beginning to think it's a bit more than that though and possibly a throw out bearing? The clutch behaves like most triple plates and makes the funny rattling sound when the pedal is pressed in.. that's cool, I actually like that noise. I think it's getting worse though and I need to take it somewhere but I would love to know what you guys think!

Looking into it, you guys are right, the MTX-L does have a narrowband output. I believe the PFC is expecting 2x inputs so I assume I can just wire it up in parallel?

Hi guys, Thanks for the posts! I've been out of town so haven't had access to my computer. Simulating the narrowband from the MTX-L; I'll have a read up on it and see if I can wire it into the PFC, I think it's slot 29. Regarding self tuning, that's not really what I'm after and when I get the Link ECU, I'll probably be using that but for now, I'm happy with the on boost fuel ratios, just a bit tired at having slightly rich or slightly lean AFRs on cruise and idle with the PFC as I have no O2 sensors. Thanks!

The link ecu is the eventual plan however I have got a few jobs to do first that are more serious. Powerfc does have o2 sensor feedback but not as detailed as the link. Ie, only one target value as opposed to idle/off boost etc. Basically this is a wiring question. Pfc corrections are working great for less than a 100 mile journey but heat soak, lack of fuel temp corrections due to no fuel temp sensor, etc is just sending me a tad lean off boost.

I'd like to have a go at getting O2 closed loop feedback working with datalogit so I can get some stable fuel ratios off boost. I don't have a fuel temperature sensor so on long journeys, it seems like I am getting some small fluctuations when temperatures change. That, I think, is the only explanation I have for my fuelling going slightly lean (0.5 AFR), on a long journey (150+ miles). I've checked air temperature, voltages, fuel pressure and all the corrections available to me to no avail. I've also raised before that I get a lean condition when turning air conditioning on which is annoying again; grounding all seems fine and voltage corrections seem fine. I've been investigating and found that from most tuners, you'll get these problems if you're running everything in open loop because there's just so many things that need correcting, i.e. a small rise in fuel temp changes the amount delivered. I've got a regularly calibrated MTX-L wideband that I use for tuning which is plumbed into AN1-AN2 on datalogit. I've got O2 feedback turned off because I don't have any narrowband sensors on my car but I was thinking that I would be able to turn the MTX-L to provide output in lambda instead of AFR. If I do this, where do I sort the wiring? is it basically wiring the wideband into the loom that goes into PowerFC? Datalogit just shows 0.005 for O2-1 and O2-2 constantly. I would assume that once PFC sees the wideband putting out the voltages it expects for the O2 sensors, it shouldn't care whether it's a wideband or a narrowband and my AFR problems will go away. I can have the MTX-L display gadget just understand the voltages I tell it and to display the AFR accordingly so I shouldn't notice any visual changes.

Ok, so today I've ordered 2 new sytec bullet filters and -6AN braided piping to replace the -6AN stainless piping I had going to my earls. The sytecs are high flowing and have very little pressure loss and should be good with the 8micron filter option. I'm happy to clean these regularly for peace of mind that my injectors are safe. Just out of curiosity, the pre pump filter to pump is -8AN, but the pump to post pump filter is -6AN. I'm not really sure why this is but the car runs nicely so I wasn't going to change anything other than the filters. I appreciate the top end might need a few fuel tweeks so I'm happy to sort that.

Thanks! Really useful advice. I'm going to go such the fine paper solution after the pumps. It seems I'm probably being a bit over cautious by not driving the car until I get the new solution though

So apparently 20 micron absolute is ryco. Seems like a really unclear area when it comes to filtering fuel. Just can't really be affording to replace injectors on the slight chance a bit of crap gets through. For sure the car is fueling very consistently now but that's with only 55 micron pre pump. Car is garaged until I sort this. I'd hate to fit the 10s and end up having fuelling problems again like when I had paper filters behind the pumps.

That quote I posted from the injector dynamics website was a quote from Bosch. I do believe that your injectors are running great after 5+ years but I've just been reading in so many places now that 10micron is recommended before the injectors. I was well and truly sold by what you said but then I got the e-mail back from before I asked this question. I'm aware ID1000s are just rebranded bosch injectors but I'm curious at how they can be misguided when it comes to their product. Apologies if I've caused offence; that wasn't my intention. I'm looking at getting 2x http://www.glencoeltd.co.uk/sytec-fuel-filters-swirl-pots-water-separators/sytec-motorsport-fuel-filters-bullet/bullet-motorsport-fuel-filter-jic6-jic6-filter-blue/with the 8 micron filters to replace the 35micron earls because I think the earls are pretty poor flowing too. I've already got 2 of these before the pumps with the 55micron filters so I'm sold on their quality and ease of fitting.

Beginning to think that I should just bite the bullet and put 2 more bullet filters at 10micron in after the pumps and be done with worrying about whether or not the injectors are safe

So I've had word back from an e-mail I sent to injector dynamics and they have stated that 35micron post pump filters are not enough to protect the injectors even though the article below says anything OVER 35micron will cause injector damage. I do have the blue adapters but I can't be sure whether or not they contain the 7micron basket filters. I suppose my safest option is to take the fuel rail off and inspect the adapter personally. http://i.imgur.com/XwgVgfm.jpg It does seem, upon reading, http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/131145-fuel-system-filtration, that they do recommend very fine filters before the injectors. "Recommended filter quality: nominal rating 5µ, minimum 82% capture efficiency according to ISO/TR 19438; dirt particles >35µ are not permissible. The basket filter in the injector serves only to catch residual particles. Nonconformance of the recommended filter quality can cause damage to and failure of the components" Thoughts?

Very nice setup status. My system is in the boot although I can see the cooling benefits. I've just ordered some Earls 35 micron filters for after the pumps. Going to keep the 55 micron filters before the pumps to see if that helps. Do you think 55 micron stainless steel filters before the pumps will cause cavitation?

The 55 micron filters are now before the pump. I have some Earls filters after the pumps but the cartridges were removed because apparently they were restricting the flow. This could have been due to the paper filters that used to be in the previous filters. I expect the issue I saw on the dyno was indeed cavitation. I was reading that bosch recommend 10 micron and anything over 30 can damage the injectors.

Hi, So, I spent some time replacing the pre filters in my sytec bullet filters This is the state of the paper filter that came out: - Disgusting.. I replaced with: - This could be the reason why the fuel pressure was dropping at high rpm/boost on the dyno after there was some residual heat in the system but I'll keep track of it because there could be a number of other reasons. I didn't bother changing the lift pump filter as I think that these don't tend to get that dirty and it's not been in long. Literally, 7000rpm @ 1.8bar after about 8 pulls on the dyno and fuel pressure was dropping from 8bar to 5bar and going lean which meant stopping for the day; I needed to get this fixed so it didn't get worse. It could still be a problem or the problem could just have been vapourising due to the pressure and heat from having an 8micron filter before the pump. So that paper filter in the image is 8 microns which was sitting before the 044 bosch pump. This isn't really ideal, as I've subsequently found out that it can cause the pump to work quite a lot harder and could limit life (probably causing some level of vapour lock as well). What I've done is dropped in a stainless steel 55micron pre filter into the sytec bullets I've checked with a few other sources and I'm getting some conflicting responses; some people are saying that 55micron filtering of fuel is sufficient and most modern cars don't even have fuel filters! Others are saying that you need to filter further to reduce the risk of damaging the injectors. I don't really think I should be filtering pre pumps at 8micron though, that's for sure. The current setup is: - 450lph walbro lift pump into swirl pot which feeds 2x bosch 044 fuel pumps (both pre filtered by sytec bullet filters - now 55 micron/was 8), which then goes to the greddy injector rail and feeds both sides. The injectors are ID1000s and do not have the adapters which filter at 7micron per injector. Any advice would be appreciated; I'd also be really interested to know how some of the other big power cars support fuelling and where the filtering is performed. I guess the point probably is that race cars break and get repaired and thus it's outweighing the costs with the safety measures. Thanks!