edizio
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Everything posted by edizio
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Take a look at http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/51082-cylinder-6-rb26dett.html
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I will link the post later for you xgtrx when I'm not on my phone. The recommendation I was told was to add 3% to 6 by using settings 5. So with 1000cc injectors I have 45.0 as the base and then 46.35 in 6. important to flow test injectors though.
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In response to xgtrx's response, I run my boosted afrs at 11.5. Regardless though, surely all gtrs with the std plenum will go lean on 6 and surely that percentage is the same no matter what injectors you use. So id1000 should be no different.
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GTRNUR, if I'm running 440cc injectors and at WOT, cylinder 6 requires 3% more fuelling, surely with an engine tuned and requiring 1000cc injectors at WOT would still require 3% more fuelling. I wouldn't have thought that it would matter what injectors are used; if you're fuelling and the rear cylinders are running lean, then wouldn't the coefficient remain the same, no matter what injectors you use? I use 3%,2% & 1% because I was under the impression that every GTR engine that uses the standard intake plenum will run lean on 4, 5 and 6. I'm concerned about EGTs but since I run water meth injection, the exhaust temperatures, shouldn't be that high.
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Infact, sorry, surely that temperature gun is pointless: - Temperature range: -32 to 350degree
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That external temperature sensor looks really good! I might purchase one of those for when it goes on the dyno. Can anyone tell me why my ignition timing drops down when I release the throttle? Is this something to do with overrun?
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I never touch the car without monitoring for knock and I listen with my det cans but I'm still, by no means, good enough to fully understand it all. My highest knock count is 11 but I don't trust the sensors as they can be largely inaccurate as well as measuring engine/transmission noise. I tuned WOT fairly well by increasing the timing steadily until I could detect the pitch of the engine changing and then pulled back 3 degrees of timing and then used the temperature sensor to retard timing if the value went over the temperature at which I was tuning at. It's quite fun actually but not having a dyno handy, I have to do this on private roads with friends willing to drive whilst I tune. Advanced logging is always on but admittedly, I've never probed EGTs; is this common amongst tuners then? how exactly do they probe the individual outlets?
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Using ID1000 injectors; idle is generally ok except after boost it tends to be fairly rich for about 5 seconds and then stabilises to 13.9-14.2 which is where I have it set on my 264 cams. I've got cylinder 6 at 3%, 5 at 2% and 4 at 1% additional fuelling as I believe the plenum on the GTR to be rather poor but I can't be 100% certain that this is perfect as I don't have EGT sensors/widebands on each of the 6 pipes. I'm getting the part throttle issue sorted a little more now but it's taking a good amount of time and I have to be quite careful with slight adjustments. That's definitely a shame about atmospheric correction, I run on high 10s on high boost and have a custom temp sensor which updates really fast so I can make fairly decent tweeks. A bit clueless when it comes to the ignition timing though, I feel like that is an air I don't want to touch, even though I have a set of det cans that I made.
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Hi, I've been playing around with tuning my car for a while on top of the base map that I have and it's been quite successful. Full throttle is perfect, but of course, the problem is part throttle. From what I have been told, the PFC d-jetro is incapable of ever getting good results for part throttle on a GTR due to the multiple throttle bodies plennum. I've been told that the problem can be solved, using TPS/INJ corrections and although this will never get perfect results, it will, at least, give drivable ones. Currently, at about 5000rpm+ the AFRs drop into the low 10s and then into 9, at which point, I just have to give up or risk flooding. My question is, what should the curve of the TPS graph look like? I'm guessing it's more complex than just a linear line but I wonder if there is any calculations I can do that will allow me to get an accurate 'estimation' Furthermore, how do ECUs like LINK/SYVECS allow a better tune? (like I appreciate they have more tables for fuelling, but what are these?)
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Well, unfortunately, upon inspection at the weekend, I found a small, almost incision like, cut on the kevlar belt; it's only a 1mm nick that doesn't even go deep past the surface but it's enough to bother me. It's probably been there since the belt went on, in all honesty, as it doesn't look like a wear and tear rip. Probably just going to go with just replacing the belt with an OEM one as the HKS belt hasn't been on long, maybe 10,000km so no need to replace the tensioners, unless anyone thinks otherwise?
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Thanks for that! So if I change my HKS kevlar belt to an OEM, I'll need to tweak the ignition timing? I can do most of that stuff, I've got the equipment and some experience tuning on my d-jet PFC. Still using the standard CAS.
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I believe that the OEM belts have very little vibration whereas the kevlar belts tend to be more rigid which puts additional stress on the pump. I'd be inclined to suggest that there is a correlation between a vehicle with higher power figures and uprated cams/springs. I certainly have none-standard parts on the vehicle in question which are part of the package for increasing the amount of power that it can produce. I'm not an expert at this and if you're trying to prove me incorrect then I'm more inclined to accept this and listen to what you have to say; if you have anything constructive, that is?
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Well, with power comes the extra stress from non standard cams and valves I've always gone for the kevlar belts but it's just whether or not I'm doing more harm than good by adding additional wear on the water pump and tensioners.
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I'm currently running a HKS kevlar timing belt for my RB26; I started asking around and I'm getting quite poor feedback from non OEM belts. The engine I am running is fairly powerful and I was under the impression that the kevlar belts were required for making big numbers. I'm looking at replacing this belt now and I was thinking about using a tomei kevlar belt but now I'm thinking maybe just go OEM or gates, even though I'm running a lot more than a standard skyline. Thanks!
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I was curious today about diagnosing issues on my car; there's currently nothing I can notice wrong but if I have a powerFC, how do I diagnose what would previously come up as 'check engine light' issues? Currently, the powerfc only flashes the check engine light for knock and injector duty reaching max but what about other issues? On my impreza, I used to be able to connect two wires together and read off the fault codes from the 'morse code like' flashing. I can see the sensors on the PowerFC and see that the voltages are sensible but is there anything else I can do? i.e. how do I know if HICAS/4wd have faults?
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Yes, that was the plan! :-) Hopefully it's not going to give bad results off boost though if it's that far from the plenum.
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So this is the temp sensor that I have ordered: - http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/400 along with a resistor to make the ECU think it's OEM across the range I feel is important.
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GTSBoy, where would you be inclined to place the new sensor? I was hoping to get it away from the plennum as that is getting hot. I was thinking just after the intercooler on one of the connecting pipes. This would give a true indication of the air temp coming from the turbo and wouldn't get any heat soak what so ever but would this give inaccurate results when off boost?
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Yeah so it seems like this is the issue, just out here in England the air temps never get high enough to go over 50 lol. But definitely notice that the temps drop on boost! Quite excited to get this new tmo sensor set up. Actually going to drop it in just after the intercooler and tune the delta so that I measure the true temperature coming from the turbo. The delta should be constant though I believe so shouldn't cause a problem :-)
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I am using map sensors to acquire the volume as opposed to measuring air flow with a MAF so yes, it does apply to me; thanks! Funnily enough, I have never seen the air temp actually go above 45 when monitoring with datalogit, even when this issue is occurring. Anyway, the new temp sensor should be here soon so I'll fit that and report back. I can confirm that when I go onto boost the temps drop considerably though!
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That makes sense to me Scott. I'll make a walk through as I do it, just waiting on the parts now. I ordered the sensor/resistor/electric box with some silicon to make a nice job of it. I don't suppose it could be fuel getting hot? I do have twin bosch 044 fuel pumps to a sard pressure regulator feeding my id1000 injectors. The car is capable of running to around 750hp+ with this setup but for road safety, I've got the wastegate opening at 0.8bar as opposed to 2.2nar which would be somewhat around 850 at close to 100% duty cycle.
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So tonight I had heat soak because I left the car for 30 minutes; got back and the AFR was around 18 when starting.. traditional heatsoak due to the sensor. After a few miles everything was normal again. This is strange and leads me to believe that the issue with driving on the motorway and gradually getting leaner after an hour or so is not the same problem. Any thoughts?
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Yes, well hopefully this will fix the heat soak issues of going lean on long drives without boost. Funnily enough though, the fuel ratios on boost are perfect, even when in this state. Going to order a DEi turbo blanket and some wrapping for my gt4294R. Thinking a T4 size will do!
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Hey GTSBoy, Yeah, I've ordered the GM IAT and the resistors to bring it inline with the nissan one so it 'tricks' it into thinking it's the real one. It's apparently fast reacting and accurate but unfortunately not waterproof so it has to go behind the watermeth nozzle. I run water meth injection too which injects just before the manifold but I was thinking of placing the new IAT just after the intercooler and then compensating the fuelling using my wideband and datalogit. Do you think that it's ok to place the sensor elsewhere?
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Yes, that's the temp sensor I'm on about! Do you think the issue is just that? I was thinking it was but wanted a second opinion.