HarrisRacing

I know nothing about Sydney, but this is a universal trend: chasing a dyno number over all else. 2 things: 1) The 8374 is very responsive but yes it still comes on around 4k on pump which may be "laggy" for some. 2) The 7670 may be the better choice for pump powerband but I would really be scared of overspinning it. A road rage gauge may be mandatory on that setup. I thought long and hard about the 7670. Ultimately I'm glad I went 8374 because it's still super responsive for what I'm doing with the car and I've got room to grow if I build a 3 or 3.4 later

Wow!

Thank you! This is at a solid 17 psi boost, but the heat was SO bad on this trip and event. EASILY 80-90% humidity and track temp was likely 120 F. Yes...that hot. When this car first cranks up in the mornings and just after coolant and oil temp come up it is INSANELY fast!!! I am REALLY liking the setup so far. Also one of the HKS coilovers wouldn't adjust (broken nut on top I dunno), so I left them on 4 clicks from full soft (and I think they have 13 or 14 total clicks). Also broke a fluid-filled subframe bushing but that's OK I have new ones to go in soon. I LOVE the NISMO front diff. After the 500 miles breakin you can't even tell it's there until you start pushing gas. Even on this surface (bumpy, not that nice of pavement) the diff really worked well. It pushed a tiny bit, but when heading straight even stabbing throttle from 6k the front just PULLS the car up. Very impressed for sure. Managed to beat the New Z06, New Z/28, Hellcats (tanks with HP), and many other purpose-built tube-chassis autox / race cars. Everyone was absolutely shocked at the GT-R's performance and honestly it will be much better. All this on 255/40/17 hankook RS-3's.

Ran across this street on some backwoods of texas.

I did at the very end when I actually could use it.

My brother and I took a road trip for the Hot Rod Power Tour and entered the car in the autox event at the Circuit of The Americas in Austin Texas. You'd never believe we took Fastest time of the day with only 2 runs! Yeah....that happened. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5CSFrnP_GU Thanks to the Dose Pipe we were able clench the victory!

I thought that too at first...And yes I wish it was about double the size but if does have let's say 5 seconds of 100% fuel supply by itself with the assumption of 100% injector fuel usage.The pump can't access the very bottom of the tank so you lose about 15% available fuel there. The pump uses about 25% of the total volume as well so really you're left with about 1 liter. Assuming no return from the rail with a 380lph pump you end up draining at a rate of .101 liters per second...giving me about 10 seconds before my listed safety factors. Engineering factor says 5 seconds should be solid. Sneaky, make sure you are lifting in the tank somehow...any air sent up front was totally detrimental to my setup.

Ok so I was tired of losing fuel supply and strange starvation at low fuel levels. Here is my solution. Integrated engineering sump with AEM 380LPH pump. Mounted under car and all plumbing is under car to/from factory fuel lines. I will add the check valve later and run a line to the front of the car, but I was missing a few things to do that. So far ZERO fuel issues. I actually changed the fuel map after resetting the regulator and it started coming in nicely. This is a much better pump choice than what I had IMO. Also added about 5 deg timing so far and the car is just waking up! I'll try to get back on the dyno soon enough.

Removed carbon cannister (where my ps pump reservoir is now) and just ran a new line from the intake manifold using the factory metal line located behind the cam gears

Fyi the high boost borg warner EFR cannister will yield 17 psi right at 4k rpms rolling in 3rd straight off the cannister and settles at 16.5 or so. But this is as low as it goes in the midrange at 3 turns in (lowest recommended setting). After 7k, however, boost will drop steadily down to 13 psi at 8000. This is with NO BOOST CONTROL. I started with boost control yesterday and found that with closed loop starting to bleed 100% up until the control point (3 psi before target for me), the boost will hit 17 psi at 3750! I'm going to start tweaking that today on top end to get solid boost control. Should be easier to trim that now and I'm going to closed loop boost control as well.

Very funny writeup. This is the solution though. There's no way in hell I would attempt to pull all that mess down with the engine in the car!!! To add fuel to the fire, I can remove my BW 8374 EFR completely in about 45 minutes. There are 4 nuts, 1 V-band clamp, 1 hose clamp, 1 vacuum/boost line, and 4 AN fittings to/from it. All very very accessible. But in all honesty I did contemplate staying twin for a long time. But I DEFINITELY would convert to speed density (Haltech or other) by removing the MAF's remove ALL BOV piping spanning from the driver's side of the car over to the intake piping and change them for BOV's that don't open under part throttle, and just simplify the inlet / outlet piping in general. I think half the hassle is simply getting TO the turbos. I can't imagine trying to find a boost leak in that mess.

I need an R32 RIGHT side reverse light socket and wiring pigtail. It's the socket that rotates to fit into the plastic housing and contains wires to plug into the car harness. I'm not sure left and right are different, but this is the right or driver side on my car. I need someone willing to ship to the USA. I sourced some reverse lights, but only had one pigtail in the set. Thanks Patrick

Patrick Harris In Lafayette Louisiana. My brother owns a shop in Scott Louisiana about 3 minutes off of I-10. I'm SURE he or I could help fix your skyline after doing mine! His shop is Harris Automotive Services, Scott, LA.

Yeah my brother has the two 044 on his turbo Mustang and damn you can't hear yourself think in that thing. I did just get in the tank and found the cap had popped off the end of the factory fuel "sump". So there is my starvation issue for sure since the cap keeps the fuel from just rushing to the left. I put an industrial zip tie around it to hold it on (hey, they work). Also reset my fuel pump angle in the cradle to give a better angle on the fuel feed lines (perhaps some kinking going on here?). I will do the boost a pump before going sump at this point because I feel the car will likely top only 520 or so whp on pump. Yes one walbro 460 would be perfect.

Wow... I'm embarrassed to say this but I feel like I should be clear to keep clarity with my build etc. 1) Don't EVER think the factory fuel voltage to the FPCM is going to keep up with ANY kind of uprated fuel pump. I have no idea why I didn't just hardwire a new relay in to start with, but I'm ashamed to say how much difference there was in flow. My car steadily dropped from 5500 rpms up (yes that low). No wonder why I thought I was running out of injectors. The drop was linear so I had actually tuned around it (not knowing), but at 6k it was 9.8 psi LOWER than it should have been and -20 psi lower at 7500!!! Even after rewire the pump is done at 7500 and is dropping 4.5 psi there and 8.3 psi at 7750. Some of this could just be the fact that I'm using the factory lines and some -6AN fittings at the ends. Perhaps running a straight -6AN to the rail would help...but I need to install a sump anyway. EDIT - I am going to be testing more of this pump. I think my main feed from it was slightly kinked. I bet it will make 500 whp on pump no problem now. 2) Don't trust published fuel pump numbers. These are absolute limitations taking into account NO friction losses, etc. My DW300 pump is falling off after 7,500 rpms even after the rewire...again it could be from friction losses. I bet it's capable at the RAGGED EDGE of supporting 500 whp. It will be a lift pump from here on out and going to a sump with a real pump (walbro 460). 3) Be careful how you setup your Haltech engine protection. I had mine setup to let me know if I had seen 12.2 AFR (or leaner) after 10 psi boost. This way it's only limiting me from leaning out on top. It did NOT, however, catch the fuel pump issue! Meaning I was running 93% injector duty cycle due to the lower fuel pressure and still not touching 12.2 AFR. Since the rewire AFR's went to the 10's AFTER removing 15% out of the fuel map! I will now also have the fuel pressure set in my engine protection to give me advanced notice that I dropped fuel pressure below my target.

Add a trim knob. Not sure how it works on those models but in closed loop on platinum the trim knob can lower the target boost (and resultant tables). In open loop it drops duty cycle by a certain percent.

Will do. Thanks. I wired in a relay to the pump today (lol didn't do that yet) so we will see what happens there. But yes starvation under right handers less than half tank.

Fuel pressure dropping on top end. Looks like I have maxed the DW 300 pump. Time to add another pump to my setup (dang). I also found out why everyone adds a fuel sump to these cars as well. Right hand turns at 1/2 tank or less suck even at low rpms and speeds...total starvation there. Already time for upgrade . Time to see if I have any fuel pumps laying around.

FYI I've started working on timing. WOW...BIG changes! Be prepared for new dyno numbers! Haltech is super conservative! This car just picked up a definite seat of the pants increase at only 2 deg advance...and NO KNOCK. EDIT - just reviewed log and Fuel pressure is dropping off on top end. I'm betting I've maxed the DW300 pump. It hung in there pretty well...any clue on what -6 AN lines and stock fuel lines will do? Am I limited there as well while I'm making changes?

Totally true!Didn't want to make TOO many changes. This would be closer to racegas.

This is exactly right. That 6266 makes serious top end (I would think compares better to the air works 8376 s300sxe I posted). Only problem is there isn't s lick of data on precision turbos and I'm a mechanical engineer. I like designing before I commit my money!

8374 EFR low RPM here 8374 EFR high rpm here The dyno in BHP is like this: 3000 5 psi - 124 hp 3500 10 psi - 172 hp 4000 25 psi - 360 hp 4500 25 psi - 406 hp 5000 25 psi - 463 hp 5500 25 psi - 535 hp 6000 25 psi - 586 hp 6500 25 psi - 611 hp 7000 25 psi - 644 hp 7500 25 psi - 668 hp 8000 22.5 psi - 608 hp 8500 22.5 psi - 567 hp don't forget to remove 15% for drivetrain losses if estimating WHP. Of course my car may just be low on power (I'm sure it is because I'm on super conservative timing so far) and my VE estimates could be off, but you get the idea. This bitch is humping at 25 psi!

high rpm 8374 EFR at 20 psi boost using my VE numbers: here RPM, Boost pressure - Exhaust manifold back pressures (psi): 6000, 20 psi - 22.2 6500, 20 psi - 24.7 7000, 20 psi - 27.1 7500, 20 psi - 29 8000, 20 psi - 30.8 8500, 20 psi - 32.5 high rpm 7670 EFR at 20 psi boost (except where compressor won't do it) using my VE numbers: here RPM, Boost pressure - Exhaust manifold back pressures (psi): 6000, 20 psi - 28.3 6500, 20 psi - 32.1 7000, 19.5 psi - 35.2 7500, 18 psi - 34.2 8000, 16 psi - 32.4 8500, 14 psi - 29.1 The 8374 EFR will make closer to it's theoretical output from 6k on up for sure and is definitely still the better choice on turbo. Heck the journal bearing version S300SXE 8376 may make a nasty top end turbo as well if you don't need the EFR bells and whistles and would be staying external gate. http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-airwerks/borgwarner-s300sxe-8376-62mm.html

100% true and excellent point. Of course all dependent on the turbine housing selection as well. I know we were talking IWG for both, but yes I'll pull the numbers off the matchbot for that as well because it's 100% relevant. I was talking all in on compressor (one way or another).

You are (and were) right. I know I am blowing it open because I have it turned almost all the way in. Be ready to send me one tomorrow. I'll call in the morning.