HarrisRacing

7670 would be great on RB25, but on RB26 i think too small for anything other than bone stock engine for autox events imo. Maybe if you were limited to low boosthe or wanted to keep revs down for some reason?

You guys inspired me. Pulled the wastegate hose and ran a log. Check my build thread 2.75L stroker. Ported head, ss .5mm valves Tomei poncam A, hypertune V2, stock fmic 10 psi 3300 rpms 15 psi 3888 rpms 20.5 psi at 4105 rpms 6boost manifold 8374 EFR .92 IWG This is on medium wastegate cannister at 3 turns in (can go more and likely get in boost quicker). Third gear Car is barely tuned so far (I'm doing it). Haltech isn't controlling boost though I'm pretty sure it's all setup right)

Totally. I still haven't touched my timing maps yet and I'm still on only 10 psi boost and the turbo just wants to spool. I can leave it in 5th and pass anyone on the highway that I need to (of course 75mph is somewhere around 3k). Drivability is truly incredible I'll get videos of inside the car later today hopefully.

I'm going to try to dyno this weekend for you guys

Fyi...effing bad brand new deatschwerks 800cc injector! I'm now running EV14 style 850cc. Set new resistor setting (gotta love Haltech) and tweaked dead times. Car runs awesome again

Ok maybe not!

It should compare very closely to the 8374 EFR with slightly less response and slightly less power since it has the same compressor wheel, but will have less response and slightly less power due to the exhaust turbine differences and oil-only journal bearing (which really isn't that big of a deal to most anyway). On pumpgas it would likely be a perfect turbo choice for a stock displacement or drop-in camshaft RB26. And for the money ($760 USD!)...wow it's got to be one of the best turbos on the market especially if you have the turbo manifold and wastegate already. Also if used on a stock displacement RB26 I would stick with the .91 twin scroll housing for better boost threshold.

Fyi it's definitely on no. 6. Pulling injector wire doesn't make much difference. May be the ignitor. I'm going to check that first. So ignition checks: 1) Ignitor / PTU bench tested all three circuits at both polarities (easy work) = PASS 2) Check harness connections from the ignitor/PTU back to the ECU pins to make sure there is continuity there = PASS 3) Check coils on bench, then swap coils to see if it moves = PASS 4) Check harness from PTU to coils for continuity = PASS 5) Check coils for spark by disabling injectors and doing spark gap testing as rolling engine over = PASS Then Fuel check: 1) Check harness from ECU pin to fuel injector to verify continuity = PASS 2) Check fuel injector resistance = PASS 3) Swap fuel injector and see if problem chases injector = FAIL EDIT - FOUND PROBLEM!!! Problem was a bad brand new deatschwerks 800cc injector in no. 6. Passed resistance tests, just didn't flow like the others (pretty much no flow). No clue how that happened. Swapped to a new set of the EV14's (actually used from my brother's LS project, but whatever they run GREAT.

as soon as I get my other issues sorted I'll move to a 0W-20 oil and see what it does. My idea is that my clearances are nice and tight and that the lower viscosity will linearize the oil pressure curve a bit as well as to reduce drag and also increase circulation rate of oil back to the pan. An experiment for a bit later though!

Thanks for that. I pulled the datalogs for the oil pressure when warm (198 deg F) 30 psi at idle 1k rpms 65 psi at 2400 rpms 80 psi pretty much everything above 4k. So I see what you are saying it's not linear at all. Again on 10-40 oil. I will go to thinner oil since this pump is apparently stupid high pressure and flow right now.

oh and to clarify. It ran REALLY well for quite some time. But I honestly hadn't driven it long enough to really heat things up. I will be pulling parts of the ignition harness and looking more closely at it shortly. Looking into trouble-shooting information now.

exactly. I'll grab my hand-held laser thermometer from the shop tomorrow and see which cylinder isn't firing correctly. I'll gun them all at different times of running (start, 5 min, 20 min) and see if there is a defined difference. This could very well be ignitor / coil related or related factory wiring related. Wiring wasn't crispy, so I didn't think it could be that, but I'll start there tomorrow then play the "coil swap game". Also none of the plugs or cylinders looked wet / dry compared to others. Plugs looked all the same. I guess there is a potential that I have a dead injector as well. I guess with new motor and all I just erred with mechanical components.

Grrrr.. Drove to car show. No leaks. Good power, decent mileage. The longer this car runs the worse it feels on ONE certain dead spot in either ignition or a mechanical issue. It's a well defined BUMP in the idle that is very consistent...and worse and worse as it warms up and you drive it. Sitting in traffic the car starts to get very hard to drive. Fuel pressure is perfect, so is oil, air temp, etc. Checked compression: 1 - 165 2 - 170 3 - 165 4 - 172 5 - 170 6 - 170 Then pulled cam covers and checked cams: I measured: Intake: (Tomei target is .018" +/- .001") 1a .018" 1b .016" out tight 2a .016" out tight 2b .016" out tight 3a .018" 3b .017" 4a .020" out loose 4b .021" out loose 5a .018" 5b .017" 6a .020" out loose 6b .016" out tight Exhaust: (Tomei target is .015" +/- .001") 1a .012" out tight 1b .011" out tight 2a .014" 2b .014" 3a .013" out tight 3b .013" out tight 4a .012" out tight 4b .014" 5a .014" 5b .014" 6a .011" out tight 6b .013" out tight I still can not figure it out. pretty rough idle...but constant miss. After you run the car up to temp it just starts missing at part and low load cells (has a lean-ish backfire at 2500-3500 getting on boost. Sounds like ONE specific cylinder too. I thought for sure it would have been a tight valve. These valves aren't THAT tight IMO. Coils are new splitfires (hey maybe one is bad?) plugs are new NGK 8's. I also threw 7's and 6's in there to see what the deal was. Car still pulls like a freight train after you get it going at full throttle but the stop and go traffic I look / sound like an idiot driver...especially after it heat soaks and starts breaking up. I put a ground on the igniter just to make sure. Possible I melted part of a valve? Acting like an intake valve if so? I'll do leakdown check later this week. WTH guys any advice on this? Haltech seems to be responding very well to changes...logs on pulls look good and AFR's at part throttle seem reasonable. It idles way too rough for these small cams with defined burble.

I think I defaulted to 2 or 3 turns (wrote it down in my notebook at the shop), just for breaking in the engine. It did creep to about 11 psi the other night at 7500 rpms but again I need to check boost settings. STAY TUNED! But the turbo is hyper responsive...I LOVE IT.

I have the medium cannister for now since I'm going to be strictly pump gas and wanted to tune the bottom of the map for road course racing (potentially on lower boost). He's talking about setting the tension on the wastegate cannister by turning the nut in and out to tighten the wastegate spring. The procedure is in the BW EFR manual and on Full Race's site. I actually forgot that I ZERO'd the boost tables for break in so this is totally on the wastegate spring with boost signal to it right now. I will set the boost today or tomorrow and get it to spool faster. Haltech boost control is pretty dang detailed. There is DEFINITELY more spool in this thing I assure you.

Yes. I'm going to be running thinner oil as well but it's setup for high pressure. I have an additional haltech oil pressure sensor I'll pull off that log to see exactly what it was. FYI the Tomei pump is adjustable. And in the instructions they tell you that you should have additional oiling capacity (ie- deep sump) if you run their higher settings. A thinner oil will give me a little lower pressures and allow the oil to drain back to the pan faster (ie-less crankcase ventilation issues potentially). I think I'm running 10-40 for break-in. Also I did install a brand new pressure sensor when I built the motor and the Haltech is really neat in it's engine protection funtions. I have the 0-150psi haltech pressure sensors on my fuel rail and my oil system. Both of them can be set up to do all kinds of things to the engine (limit rpms, illuminate lights, etc) when certain conditions are met (which are also editable).

4WD works for a while then light comes on for TPS (21 blinks). I'm sure it has to do with the fact that I adjusted the tps to read about .5% on the TPS in the Haltech. I'll adjust it out in the tune to remove that 1% on the output and I will bet it will be fixed.

I completely bled it when I did the overhaul. Followed the "pull the white plug in kickpanel" and all that. Seems all good there. I keep forgetting to check the led light on the box when I finish driving.

little stuff today. Washed the car, fitted front air dam (forgot to get pics after), mounted battery permanent with the lightest battery hold down EVER, finished a few other odds and ends. Got the car cranking and idling pretty dang good, going to start boost tuning tomorrow (I hadn't read the haltech on boost tuning, I just turned it all off for now). So tomorrow I'm hoping to build maps up to 14 psi boost (my goal anyway). Still likely going to limit to 7500 rpms and be weak on timing. Went through haltech software and also setup a few other things I had overlooked (or had cut out for now). It was a pain getting the car to start up at all temp settings. They all kind of layer on each other and I was seeing WAY too much fuel on cranking (causing flooding when hot) I'll be in touch more soon!! Also I'm writing this here because I keep forgetting to do it. adjust clutch fix seatbelt latch find reverse lights! (JDM apparently). catch can vents (car hasn't puked a DROP of oil with the Mine's triple-baffle covers in it...of course I'm not on a road course yet). Also 4wd light is on and feels like rear diff is loose. Gonna need a better one there.

Also I wanted to share that the Borg Warner Match bot program with the VE numbers I used HERE in post #9 look like they are reflecting my boost threshold PERFECTLY. Maybe missed the threshold by 100 rpms. My low rpm matchbot prediction @ 21 psi: here My high rpm matchbot prediction @ 21 psi: here My low rpm matchbot prediction @ 10 psi: here My high rpm matchbot prediction @ 10 psi: here This is the screenshot of my latest log showing boost threshold. It's a punch from 2800 rpms in 3rd gear and just riding boost up. 5 psi by 3,000 rpms 9 psi by 3,600 rpms Also added a simple excel graph of what the matchbot software says my flywheel horsepower should be in these cases.

It does. The bottom port is Tee'd into the fittings behind the water pump (the one that circulates all the time no matter the thermostat position. The cap to the radiator is a fixed cap that allows fluid to overflow the radiator and head to the swirl pot. The three fittings in the hypertune head vent out the gases and into the swirl pot. When you rev the car at all it spins pretty violently...like over revving makes a vortex launch out of the top (which goes everywhere!)

a few things left to tidy up but it's sure looking sexxxy!!

still really slow to start? I'm wondering if it's my crank trigger design but it takes a few engine rotations for sure

BW 8374 EFR .92 iwg on 93 octane pump on Tomei poncam A cams, ported head, SS valves, hypertune V2 manifold, 8.5:1 CR, stock bores, 79mm stroker BC crank, 6 boost divided IWG manifold, Day 2 of tune...still not 100% by any means, cams not set at all (straight up zero on both)... 3rd gear pull from 2800 rpms: 5.0 psi boost at 3,077 rpms. 9.0 psi boost at 3,555 rpms per Haltech log I just pulled. I'm sure there is more room here for better spool. I'm only set to 10 psi boost in haltech right now for break in and simple map tuning. I would tell you where it goes to 10 but clearly ecu is sending signal and causing slow rise around 9.5 psi. Just thought I would share. stock intercooler for now

Hey I know what you mean about the mean comments. Read my build thread it's full of some ridiculous mistakes. My questions were honest questions and here is what I would recommend. Ahhh I forgot we talked about your haltech offline a while back and I see now that you are not on that yet....in the meantime I would: 1) Buy a boost pressure switch and run a separate relay for one of your pumps. Make sure the "switched" pump has check valve on the outlet to prevent the first from backflowing into it. Make this pump come on at 15 or 20 psi boost. I say this because I don't know any turbo setup that can outflow a single 044 on only 20 psi boost on an RB. This way only one pump is running most of the time which will cut flow and regulator work in half (thus reducing friction-causing heat transfer and other heat transfer from the intake / fuel rail). Then when the boost goes over 15-20 it gives you the ultimate flow. As an engineer, I like an adequate design...as a hot rodder I like overkill! My car is a single Deatschwerks in tank DW300 and an aeromotive A1000 regulator with only -6 lines and 800cc injectors...I'm pretty sure it will keep up with my 8374 on stroker motor on pumpgas. Also I am running a pressure sensor to the fuel rail for my Haltech to sense a loss in pressure and protect the engine under boost. You will love that haltech!