HarrisRacing

Drat! One big thing. Oil pan has about 6 pin holes in the welds. Slow drips of oil out of them. This will surely get worse when it heats up. This is a pretty major issue as of now but... Haltech setup and wiring went very well. Went through menus and setup everything and I'm having an issue with my crank / cam pickups. I am getting voltage changes at my GAPS in the harmonic balancer when rotating by hand, and I get voltage changes in my TOOTH in my cam trigger as well when rotating by hand, but the count is wrong in my computer and it won't give an rpm signal. After reading about the honeywell GT101 sensor it will read GAPS And TEETH but they are reversed on the low / high voltages. What I mean is that I think the haltech is expecting a short-timed LOW voltage on the crankshaft and I'm not giving it that. It is likely staying LOW so long that it times out? I have an open query to Haltech about it. I'd like to at least hear it run before getting to that oil pan! AND this thing took 9 quarts of oil from dry! 9!!! crazy.

Oh I'm sooooo close!! Shame I have to be out of town again this weekend or surely there would be video of it running!

Honestly I never measured and compared to the factory harmonic balancer (I guess I could because I still have it), But here is a picture I snapped of the belt identification and you can see that it adjusted pretty much in the middle of the alternator adjustment, so it's definitely close and gives room to adjust for any stretch. I am willing to bet 1/2" wouldn't hurt anything though because it's pretty adjustable there. The PS belt had much less room for error for my setup. (78 was too long and 65 was too short).

Installed KOYO radiator Installed belts - Part numbers for the Fluidampr are: Alternator - GATES K040340 A/C - GATES K040365 Power Steering - GATES K040372 Started Tidying more wiring and made a bracket for the coolant manifold to bolt to (Simple bracket welded to strut brace for now - I'll get it powdercoated this week). Checked my injector card and arranged injectors from lowest to highest flows in the 70-80% range from cylinder 1 to 6. GETTING CLOSER!!!!

This is true. The large pulsation dampener would be touching one of the runners. I slightly bent mine around a bit and then cut the ends and had my AC shop install 2' of rubber AC hose and swivel fittings between them. Forgot to add that. Thanks for reminding me. FYI the full-race was my first choice but doesn't work with R32 AC compressor NOR the R32 Power Steering...that was out for me since I don't have access to these parts easily in the states and my stuff should work fine.

That or a data log with a pull from 3k rpms to redline in 4th gear. If speed is calibrated correctly you could easily determine HP with car weight. Anyone claiming "highest HP" surely would have an ECU they could data log with.

Oh wow. Working nearly every night of the week despite having social engagements nearly every weekend and I'm still knocking out my list. Finished my GT101 sensor install in my CAS. I ended up cutting a window so I can set the gap by shimming the bolt and it looks great. Also finished crank bolt installation and set the gap on my crank sensor. Extended the TPS wiring, finished everything under the intake manifold (extended IAC wiring), wrapped down pipe and installed final. FINAL INSTALLATION OF HYPERTUNE MANIFOLD!!!! Had a few "out of body" experiences putting all of the lock washers and nuts on...serious pain. As if I dug into a nest of porcupines surrounded by cacti while resembling a circus contortionist...BUT IT IS DONE (by the grace of God). This should all go very quickly now!!

It's not hard to pull off the solenoid. There are 3 Allen head bolts and a flared line coming in from the top. There are 3 o-rings sealing connections from the solenoid to the rack. You can take it down and check it off the car. I supplied 9V to mine (it didn't seem to care of polarity) and it blocks flow through 2 of the holes (they are drilled at an angle). Blow through them and make sure they are flowing freely when not energized and also sealed totally when energized. The hicas computer sends a pulsed voltage to this solenoid. Maybe just air? Did you put the correct fluid back in? I am going to use the haltech to control mine as I have removed most all of hicas. Could be capacitors going bad in the hicas ecu

Oh yes that. LOUISIANA

I understand from previous replies that the power steering solenoid on the rack acts in such a way as follows: 1) At no voltage applied a plunger is retracted via internal spring and this opens a port that releases pressure from the input of the rack to make steering feel heavy (bleeds off pressure supply). I confirmed this on mine. 2) When applying voltage It worked the plunger at as little as a 9V battery and polarity was not a factor (swapping poles made no difference to operation). I did NOT try lower voltages (sorry). When this is energized, the bleed hole is plugged off and all pressure goes through the rack for very light steering feel. 3) The HICAS computer sends a squar(ish) 123 Hz wave of varying voltages to this solenoid under different modes of operation (found in another thread here). This is basically changing duty cycle of the wave depending on vehicle speed. at 0 km/hr the solenoid sends roughly 4.4-6V which is approximately 32-47% duty cycle (at 14V). at 100 km/hr the solenoid sends roughly 1.5-2.2V which is approximately 11-16% duty cycle (at 14V). 4) When removing Hicas parts (or if something in the system is bad) the HICAS computer may disable this function (de-energize the solenoid) and leave the solenoid in constant bleed state (see #1 above). Here's my plan: Use a spare Digital Pulsed Output (DPO) from my Haltech PnP Platinum pro (R32) to control the output based on speed of the vehicle. I will need a digital relay for this and use one output from the aux harness. I added a DPO as an output and called it "Generic Duty Cycle Output" set at 123 HZ in the software and then made a table with 0-200 mph (yes mine is set to mph), and used 50% duty cycle for 0 mph and 0% for 70mph and up and then just linearized the table in between these values. This way I am going to run high duty on low speeds and linearly decrease duty until hitting 0% steering assist at all speeds over 70mph (so when I'm cruising on the highway my solenoid gets a break totally). Has ANYONE tried this before? I'm going to be getting my car running soon and am currently setting up the Haltech wiring and I/O's. I just wanted to see if anyone has tried this yet. Thank you, Patrick

Would love to go, but that's 30 hours of driving one way for me. I'm in Lafayette, LA Something more central (heck even COTA or NOLAmotorsport) would be great choices as well.

BW EFR 8374 DID NOT FIT IN R32 AT ALL. Serious hood clearance problems.

I won't run E85 because I work in the OIL FIELD not the CORN FIELDS. But honestly the only E85 station is an hour away one way. I'd have to fill drums up and truck it here to store...which I'm not 100% sure is legal without certain permits. Dang missed the free exhaust cam Oh well next time I guess. I have bigger issues worried about my stock transmission living through the current Torque and HP expectations so I should probably invest in beefing up the trans before adding more torque! At this point, I just want to hear my car run!

How much was it?

Great results! I wonder what the increase in fuel mileage is on these setups?Also step 2 is on sale on rhdjapan.com looks like substantial savings over the others. I did have my head machined and have valve-relieved pistons. Damnit you make me spend money!! Anyone want some brand new poncam A's?!

I am wondering what the oil flow is if you have the factory exchanger in place. I have mine laying around and may want to see what the flow is doing before you decide to leave it. If it's first in line the temp reading won't be what's actually going back into the engine and if it's last in line the work from your external cooler would be undone from the exchanger reheating it. Just a thought. Oil flows out from the block on the outside of the oil boss and back into the engine through the center bolt FYI.

I'm in Lafayette, LA. My brother lives in new orleans which is only 2 hours away (great french/Spanish creole culture). Let me know I'm sure I can meet up / give suggestions.

1) I don't think the hole from the block that sends oil is 1/2" in diameter but it's been a while since I looked at it. -10AN is approximately .5" in diameter and is AMPLE (IMO) for the oil flow in most engines unless you are running something crazy I don't know about. 2) The Greddy kit fittings are -10AN fittings. I'd assume they would send -12AN if it were required for our engines.

Ordered my 6 boost on August 27th. He didn't make me pay until the date it was done and ready for shipping on September 15th. He shipped the next day. The shipper delivered the manifold to the wrong person (in another state in the USA) on September 29th. Due to shipper error and the fact that the tracking information no longer worked since they checked it off as "delivered", Kyle started making a new one. The DAY before the new one was going to be shipped, the original one showed up at my house on October 22nd. Notice that there was likely only 1 month from date of order to date of arrival with exception of the shipper error (and actually it wasn't the international shipper, it was labelled incorrectly when it arrived in the states by the USA shipper). I had approximately 40 emails in exchange throughout the entire process including questions prior to order, updates, and the shipping issues. HYPERTUNE is the one that turned me on to 6boost originally. Since I'm in the USA I figured this was exceptional communication and delivery. The product is INCREDIBLE for the money for sure! Not all of the emails were responded to immediately, but 95% of the 40 or so emails were responded to within 24 hours. My experience at the end of last year. Patrick

Finished PS plumbing. Completed all turbo oil lines and AC lines install. All left on that side is to install downpipe. Driveshaft, speedo, center diff lines all attached and done. Worked on wiring on the front which lead to removing CAS guts and installing my Hall trigger (GT101) sensor in there. It should look like stock, but won't be. I used a M7x1.0x30mm bolt with 2 extra washers under it for the spacing. This was found to be good by unscrewing the bolt and rotating the cam to check where it touched, then seeing how many turns to turn the bolt back in. I DID cut some of the bolt off so you can't just use a M7x1.0x30mm bolt without cutting it, but I wouldn't use a factory bolt there. I did hook a 9v to the sensor and ran a voltmeter from the sensor line to see if it was going to pick up the other bolts but it doesn't. Notice also I ground the heads of the bolts all flat (didn't want raised numbers giving false triggers just in case). Torqued crank pulley (couldn't do this without driveshaft installed), and bought new belts. So here's my final punch list: 1) Relocate battery 2) Finish relooming wiring for the new sensors and those locations on the intake side. Plus install Haltech CANBUS wideband. 3) Install intake manifold for final time (been looking at how to get to all of the studs / nuts for this for awhile and I think in this final arrangement it's doable). 4) install alternator 5A) Install front acc belts 5B) install radiator + fan 6) Finish all fuel plumbing (easy) 7) Make mount bracket for coolant tube. (weld onto strut brace). 8) Finish swirl pot plumbing (all there, just not plumbed up yet). 9) Fill with fluids 10) install haltech and program it 11) Prime engine with oils, recheck fluids 12) Install spark plugs and splitfire coils. 13) Hear this sucker RUN!!!!

Thank you all for the pics of the insides. I REALLY like that Hypertune and the ARC after seeing them. ARC will be what I order next. Thanks.

^ That. Thanks.

! How did I not know this?! Thanks...learn something everyday

Looking GOOD brother! I like how they ran your piping. Mine is out to the side to make room for the PS reservoir and such, but I like yours a lot. Hypertune is top-notch stuff! I am always leary of 100% solid connections to the coolers because it seems they might induce stress on the piping and turbo manifolds when the engine torques around, but they don't have anything that looks as sexy as that to be honest!

I've actually NEVER seen an American hub dyno in person! This being said, I have personally seen skewed dyno numbers at a roller dyno before where the dyno was calibrated incorrectly. Some guy had a stock-ish 2013 gt500 and it supposedly made 625 or so RWHP which I thought was ridiculous. I was the next car inline for the dyno and when we put my old 1994 Twin turbo Supra on it (boost control and downpipe only - I mean it all other parts bone stock down to the stock paper toyota filter) and it made 515 whp!! I told them something was WAY wrong and they recalibrated and my car did 366 whp which is WAY more on target. The Mustang guy, on the other hand, bragged for months about his being the highest stock GT500 in the country...I lol'd. I agree - we will have dyno numbers coupled with Haltech logs from my car (street pulls in let's say 4th gear) which is a great indicator of available horsepower soon enough. A log with time v velocity should be a pretty universal comparison assuming it's the same gearing and tire diameters. Heck I'd even film it and give a GPS speed if that would help.