HarrisRacing

I have two -10 fittings welded to the oil pan on the front right side of the engine (under intake manifold).Since I'm single turbo I also modified the front factory turbocharger oil drain line (behind AC compressor on exhaust side of the block) with a -10 steel AN fitting as well. I like your idea of tying the left side to the right on the vent for the catch can. But yes if you can go single you can free up another port on the exhaust side.

This is true. 2 of my factory guides had chipped and broken off previously in my R32 (which had Rod knock when I bought it). As a mechanical engineer I see no issue with high strength / hardness aluminum bronzes. Remember not all bronzes are created equal just like not all cast irons are created equal. BC guides I have used in past builds have had excellent performance for me personally. The mistu 4g63 as well as the Toyota 3sgte engines i built for my past racecars are both still living healthy lives after many seasons of racing. I would really have to spec an alloy for me to send the job to just any machine shop. A bronze is an alloy of copper and other metals, most often tin, but also aluminium and silicon. Aluminium bronzes are alloys of copper and aluminium. The content of aluminium ranges mostly between 5-11%. Iron, nickel, manganese and silicon are sometimes added. They have higher strength and corrosion resistance than other bronzes, especially in marine environment, and have low reactivity to sulfur compounds. Aluminium forms a thin passivation layer on the surface of the metal. About BC guides: RB26 VALVE GUIDES BC premium valves guides are made from Manganese Silicon Aluminum Bronze alloy and CNC machined to exacting tolerances. BC guides are resistant to cracking and corrosion, while reducing friction and insures high lubrication even at elevated engine temperatures and rpm's. The perfect replacement to worn or damaged guides and 100% compatible with BC's lineup of stainless steel valves.

WOW! Heck of a build! Def would have gone single though on that build.

Yep. ARP 2000. If you look at the string of values where the initial costs differ from final they are all from one order where the guy knocked off some more money for such a large order. I found that when spending more than $2k at a time people would almost instantly offer 10% discount. Sometimes more.

Also the two additional fittings they send are blanked. They also sell some that are tapped 1/8 but this is NOT NPT, it's PT (Japanese). I drilled and tapped my blank ones for my temp and pressure sensor pickups.

Information. http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1404-fuel-pump-shootout/ http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1405-fuel-pump-shootout-part-2/ I think this testing was done in the US so I believe these pumps might not flow as much as they indicate on their test bench ( ) I am going to be running my car very soon on a DW 300 and from the tests above with a base pressure of 43.5 psig and @ 20 more psig boost should be good for approximately 750 BHP. I have the Haltech pressure sensor on my fuel regulator so I can see pressure at the regulator in my logs. This is also going to my Haltech for engine protection in the event that I drop FP for any reason. One thing I haven't seen talked about much is fuel flow through filters. I would highly recommend using GOOD (aftermarket) fuel filters on these cars. I don't believe the factory filters flow all that well (my "non scientific" tests just blowing air through a 40 micron and the factory filters was VASTLY different).

Pictures and information in my build thread on page 6. NO CLUE about factory manifold and such, but I'm sure it's possible. I had mine in several different arrangements starting with your idea, and then moving to the final idea of relocating the oil filter as well... Note where my temp pickup is located, this is on the RETURN side from the oil cooler so that you know what the temp of the oil is going into the engine.

GETTING CLOSER EVERY DAY! Lots of little things this weekend. Finished the heater / coolant returns from the back of the block, heater, and swirl pot. The swirl pot is an ebay unit and is mounted where the factory boost solenoid / injector resisters would be. I removed the factory injector resistor pack and wired it together (since the Haltech can run either high or low resistance injectors by simply selecting in the software. I cut the center nipple off of the rear block coolant port and flipped it over and welded it back so that I could rotate this fitting 180 degrees to fit my plumbing better. This will give me more room under the Hypertune manifold. So my routing to the water pump recirculating hose (fitting on block behind water pump housing that ALWAYS circulates back into the water pump regardless of thermostat position) is such that this will always be 1) drawing coolant from back of block (just like factory), and 2) will be drawing from the bottom of my swirl pot (which will be drawing on my head coolant vents and top of my radiator to remove any air in the system). Mounted PS reservoir! Removed factory EVAP cannister, but used it's bottom mount (modified) to fit the power steering reservoir! Pretty happy this worked, UGLIEST MOUNT EVER though. I plan to remake this later, was just tacking metal to it to get fitment and decided to slap paint on it for now. Since I have removed ALL of the engine bay Hicas plumbing so I only have one return from the steering rack that will go to one of the entry ports on the canister and will use hicas side of the PS pump to circulate fluid through a cooler and then back into the PS reservoir. Yes I can still remove and install the air filter without removing it. The feed hose is actually a coolant hose (one that comes off back of waterpump bypass from the factory - I'm not using it) that came in my Autobahn 88 kit that I didn't end up using! I trimmed about 1/2" off of this hose and voila - perfect feed hose! welded out exhaust, also welded another -10 AN fitting where the factory front oil drain flange was for future use in the even that I need even more block drain / venting. I just stock a -10 cap on there for now. More wiring routing, also changed the IAT to the quick responding ones and installed this in the bottom of the intake manifold. I ran a wire in the sub-harness for this. Also finished all turbo outlet / intercooler piping on the turbo side. I cut the factory pipe and added a mount to it for that "factory" look. At this point I see no reason to change the piping to hard piping as my bends and such seem to flow well so far (and that piping is 3"!). Installed GREX / GREDDY oil filter relocation as well. I did NOT use their hoses NOR their mounting position as the Hypertune V2 would surely make changing oil difficult. So I modified the mount, welded it to the subframe and put it down next to the oil drain plug! Should make for EASY oil changes. May be able to hear this baby run this weekend!

OK I know a lot of people wouldn't publish such information, but for the sake of clarity to those planning on building their own RB26 I'll share my ACTUAL costs. I am not even sure that everyone can get the deals on the parts I did, but my brother owns a shop AND the AUD is down to the USD so some things I was offered significant discount for over list pricing. I am NOT advertising prices for these parts, nor do I intend cut any shops throats on the deal so I'll leave WHERE I got them from out of it. This is ME doing ALL of the work and on my brand new N1 block the bores were so perfect that they literally did not even require honing even for the CP pistons (ordered at my bore size and they made them with the correct clearance). A couple more caveats about the build and "rebuilding your RB26". My block had 120k on it, but a rough life clearly - the crank was DESTROYED like the whole engine was starved for oil. And the block had the hairline cracks on in the top of the deck from the water jacket to the head stud holes (maybe not a serious issue, but this did give me the idea that this was too brittle for High HP use. So I would factor in a new block and a new crank no matter what unless you have the time to have yours taken down, magnafluxed and checked over very well. Also I was DEFINITELY factor in new valve bronze valve guides. One of mine was chipped off completely! So if you are going this far then you already know I'm going to recommend at least a factory SS replacement valve and head porting as well (no sense in spending all this money and effort not to get some increase in performance). Ok there's your slippery slope...There are other various fittings, parts, etc to make this work. I would say EASILY detract $2800 if not going with the Hypertune manifold. All of my prices are in USD! All engine controls, injectors, fuel pump, wiring, fuel lines, regulator etc not on this list.

Would DEFINITELY have done this had I seen it before doing mine myself. They have the pistons to match their cnc combustion chamber as well. http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-3491-phr-cnc-ported-race-head-complete-for-rb26.aspx

I'll share mine when I get back to the house. Still working on it and have done all the work myself save for machining the head for the valves and installing valve guides. Yes it's expensive. The hypertune V2 was by far my biggest adder of costs and potential headaches so far. Haven't touched the trans yet!

I'm with you. My injector set had a sheet with all the flows. I'm putting the higher ones in the rear. I'll do a few top end pulls and cut power to check plugs to make sure everything is still good.

Haltech Platinum Pro plugin factory basemap for R32 GT-R fuel injector trim tables. Injectors 1-3 are zero trim Injectors 4,5 and 6 are all different and increase in fuel added percentage on top end of tables. The highest realistic is around 2% for cylinder 6.

It's in their base map tunes. I'll screenshot the tables in a min

Finished product after gloss black powdercoating. Doesn't look too bad!

I'm almost done with my 2.75L stroker single-tubo build. I am planning on breaking in and tuning the initial setup with 3" mandrel exhaust (I had a lot of the stuff already and NONE for 3.5"), and the factory FMIC. I'm pretty sure I'll be past the 500 whp mark on pump gas and will be running before and after IAT sensors in the intercooler just to check to see how it handles the boost / temps of the EFR 8374 turbo. My setup is based around response and for now will be limited to pumpgas and only 21 psi boost. I am thinking that the stock FMIC will keep up with this demand with such an efficient turbo especially plumbed in single (ie - less radiant and conductive heat on piping, etc). That being said, I will need an upgrade because this turbo is capable of 750-800 HP later at higher boost. What is available to BOLT IN and fit up in the factory location for piping and which is the best for the money? I'm in the USA. Patrick

I have these on my Greddy thermostat plate at the block and they required drilling and tapping. I used 1/8" NPT for one to TEE into my factory oil pressure sender, and added a hose attachment for the Haltech oil pressure sensor hose since they instruct you to relocate them. On the other one it is tapped M12x1.5 for my GM oil temp sensor which is an ATI to my Haltech platinum pro plug-in. Haltech recommends remotely locating the pressure sensor. The GM fitting was M12x1.5, the haltech hose was JIC (or -3 AN) on one side and 1/8" NPT on the other for the sensor. My stock oil TEMP gauge will no longer work at the expense of me having the Haltech read this constantly and I will be able to set my tune up with their "ENGINE PROTECTION" portion which will allow me to put safeguards in for low oil pressure and/or high oil temps (reduced boost, reduced RPM, check-engine light ON, etc). Which will be more useful to me than a gauge. The final idea being that I will use their GAUGE ART box to display my custom gauge information on a VGA screen in the dash later.

If you BC stroker you can get to 2.9L especially if you are already planning on cutting your stock block. You don't have to deal with the headache of taller deck height. If I were going 3.0 block I would plan on getting that into the 3.3 or 3.4L zone anyway...I mean using your logic, why stop there? (And trust me I'm all about cubes!). http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-stroker-kits/nissan/nissan-rb34/spool-nissan-rb30-stroker-crank-kit

Yep. Here.

I have had the raw brokerage in my hand and on my car. It is gorgeous but yes short radius turns and it didn't fit in my R32 with the 8374! I sent it back.

Also the EFR are literally the fastest responding turbos on the market right now. Geoff at full race made 704whp through the 8374 EFR on a stock bottom 2.6 with lots of headwork on E85 through a cat.

Initial fitment done. Had to make it to a crawfish boil at a friend's so I couldn't weld it out. Tomorrow is shooting Guns all day with friends.

That's the plan honestly.

More work tonight. Oil drain flange modified (-10 AN steel fitting welded on) and downpipe tacked up. Downpipe fits perfectly. I'm going to put the flex and vband in it tomorrow and weld it out.

Extremely classy looking install there! I want your cam setup! I had my factory cover powdercoated the same as my top covers and would really like to install it. The clear cover is because I couldn't fit the sensor arrangement I have now in there and needed to cut the cover.