HarrisRacing

LOL...exactly. Trust me I felt bad grinding and chopping on such a nicely machined part, but hey it's working and feels totally solid. And I left my spacer short so I can shim under it and move the sensor closer to the crank pulley if needed after I really torque it on the crank.

Long time, no reply and I'm sure this will likely only help a few people but here is what I did to solve the tomei oil pump interference and smaller diameter fluidampr issue. Modified Murrayis's mount, rotated the mount, added a cylindrical spacer, tapped the actual sensor and I'll be cutting notches in my crank balancer. I'm going to go with (12x) .300" wide x .300" long and about .100" deep. The sensor is based on changes in magnetic field and should still pick them up even though the notches won't be totally through. Range on the sensor is .018-.080" inch. My .100" or so shouldn't affect it. I don't want to have a belt have the chance of getting freyed on notches.

Sorry for the slow updates. Not much has happened. My job is very "oil price dependent" and I've been scrambling to keep things going at work. I have done a few things on the GT-R, but haven't really made much progress. There are some issues with the Hypertune manifold which is making it a pretty slow installation and setup. I have been working on that for some time now, and still don't have it 100% finished. One thing is the manifold actually TOUCHES the water inlet (neck where the thermostat is). I had to file the neck down, figure out the plumbing, and am currently designing the swirl pot / outlet manifold. Just wanted to update that I'm still alive. Sorry some of my "GTR money" is tied up at the moment.

FINALLY! Shippers lost my package for over a month. Long enough for Kyle at 6boost to build another and almost ship to me before it arrived at my doorstep unannounced. So yes the 6boost manifold is a PERFECT fit in this setup! Incredible manifold. I love it! To note, I am rerouting my PS return line from the rack, and I am making an AC line for this setup. I am not actually sure if the stock R32 AC line won't fit, but it was far easier to cut and have my guys fit up a new hose for me than to mess with it's location. More updates will come quickly.

Yes this is the case as well...only where the sensor is (I believe). I will try to dig around for pictures or get more for clarity for all. I've been down in the dumps lately...this car simply CAN NOT be finished!!! But this will give me some nick-nack issues to work on while I wait yet again for more parts from overseas (the last package was totally lost by international shipper).

Yes the bolt heads would protrude into the factory timing cover. I will try to get some pictures next time I am at the shop, but I'm going hunting for a week, so it will be a while. The parts he made are for countersunk bolt heads...but 7mm countersunk hex bolts are extremely hard to find.

I wouldn't want a 9180, I would want an 8380. The 9180 has an 80mm turbine...it's a lot higher flow than the 74mm turbine even in the same AR housings (according to match-bot). Basically the .92 IWG housing coupled with the larger 80mm turbine and their 83mm (exducer) compressor. According to match-bot, this combo would be higher flowing than even the 1.45 AR housing on the 74mm turbine. But then again, it may push the map to the point that the turbine simply wouldn't spool the compressor on low-end anyway so therefore going with the larger compressor may still be the best option.

thanks for the update. I have the koyo, but it is not installed as of yet. I will likely fiberglass a part in at the shroud and trim it out where yours touched.

I do have E85 available about an hour away from me. Most of my buddies fill 55 gal drums when traveling around so there is a bit around for tuning and playing. I did see that haltech offers the ethanol kit and i'll likely go that way after my initial tuning. Funny thing is the manifold arrived in the states...oh a couple thousand miles away from me. Apparently there was a mixup with my address. No worries the guy was kind enough to call me and ship it to me. I should have it this week and expect BIG updates next week as I get this thing together. My plans are to keep the medium boost canister on the 8374 IWG for now and tune for pumpgas. Since this AND my on-board MAP sensor limit at ~22 psig I think it is a good stopping point until I get the E85 sensor ordered and plumbed, as well as swap out to larger injectors and fuel pump. After that I will start the E85 tuning in 10% increments until it is 100%. I bet it will be a frigging monster then. Lots of time before that point though as my plans are a fun street car and E85 still isn't very local yet. No plans to externally gate. I would likely just go straight to 9180 EFR if that were the case OR if they start making an IWG hybrid with the .92 housing on the larger turbine wheel while keeping the same intake wheel (are you listening BW?!).

Here's the build thread. You may not recall helping me previously (emails and such). I really tried to use your manifold, but the PS pump and AC compressor change required eliminated it for me. FYI the RAW brokerage one didn't fit either. 6boost is the one on the way now and Kyle assures me it will fit. Hopefully one day we will cross paths! I'm a big fan of your work. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447384-r32-gtr-build-in-usa/

Man I appreciate it but I ended up finding a full set of belts off of ebay. Thank you very much for the consideration.

My turbo manifold shipped today. I should have results of a pretty stout stroker 2.75L with ported head, +.5mm valves, springs, cams, hypertune V2, etc shortly on a 6boost manifold and 8374 EFR with .92 IWG setup. I'd say I should have dyno results within 2 months max. I have had the "two steps forward, one back" constantly on my project so it's taken me forever waiting on new parts and fabbing stuff.

Fitting up the intake manifold. 6Boost shipped my turbo manifold this week so hopefully next-week's pictures will really be coming together. AS you can see it is BIG. No way of making it to the stock intercooler piping, so more fab work there (which is OK because I need to remove the BOV piping down there anyway as I'm using the EFR internal BOV). I did have to remove the bracket at the rear that holds the clutch master cylinder vacuum line. I may use a straight check valve for the install when I re-route that line. And I "slightly" had to bend the clutch master cylinder hard line to get it past the plenum. Also there are no provisions for the Air temp sensor in this manifold, so I may have to weld some threaded collars to it. Also should be noted that you need Z32 throttle cable. And it should be noted that it doesn't come with studs or fasteners to attach to the head (and for the money it really should). enjoy.

Wow. This hypertune manifold is a work of art. Truly worth every penny. It's FAR lighter than the factory unit as well. I'll try to get some weight comparisons when I put it all together. I'll get more pictures of it soon enough. In the meantime, this should give an idea of what to expect when you order one!

Thanks a ton. This post will help a lot of other crazy people like us!

Man I'm honestly thinking about getting it. What are your thoughts? Mine is a weekend warrior...and it's apparently not much more money than an R34 conversion. What parts came with it? What else is needed? Will my nismo super coppermix twin plate clutch work or do I HAVE to swap to the OS giken unit? Also do you need to run your stock transfer case or do they include one? I think we are going to be similar power levels. AWESOME video car looks super fun.

Dang. You make me think dumping this old wore-out box on the curb and getting a fresher, younger, but more expensive box that may let me thrash it more before complaining. Wait...we aren't talking about wives?

6boost on the way. Kyle was very helpful, informative, and the price was right for sure.

Update. RAWBrokerage offered my money back and offered return shipping, which is extremely fair of them and I appreciate that. Stand up shop, I think they just barely missed the design (or fabrication of THIS particular manifold). I have sent a request to 6boost. If that doesn't go through I will be getting the welding machine fired up.

Damn nice build! Thanks for the info on the Hypertune. IT IS A MONSTER. Mine ships out tomorrow! Didn't expect it to protrude THAT far over! Yet another thing to add to the relocate/fabricate list.

That was my first thought "I could just machine...". My second thought was, "Wait, THEY should machine..." I have a big problem paying $2k USD and then having to redo work I already paid for.

I've contacted RAW Brokerage about this and sent them lots of pictures and dimensions of the issues. Since their collector is CNC'd there may be another solution to this problem as easy as making a new CNC'd collector for this manifold and cutting this one off and welding the new one on. Solution...but not a quick solution. They are concerned for sure and do not want any negative press around their products so I will give them the time to get it right. This clearance issue is avoidable for sure and perhaps we may not need to get into much more. I'm still waiting on my hypertune manifold regardless and have lots of fabrication remaining. But yes I believe the Greddy sump is below the cross member regardless of lowering an additional 1/2". I'll try to get pictures this week for you.

I am building custom engine mounts to lower the engine in order to clearance the turbo from the hood. This was in addition to cutting the hood. It seems the angle of the RAW brokerage manifold just pitches the compressor up too high and it gets in the way quickly. They really could easily make another CNC machined collector to correct for this...but i'm not waiting again. Now I have to reroute the PS return line and build a new AC line...which really isn't that big of a deal but dang I went with the RAW manifold because the Full-Race one had those issues and I didn't want to have to solve them. But the custom mounts are already designed and I'm waiting on purable urethane to get here to finish them. They will go from 1+13/16" height down to 1+1/4" height. Basically drops the engine 1/2", which should help CG other and only hurt with clearance on my already pretty low Greddy Trust oil pan sump. I'll get clearance numbers after I get it all together. I really only need to change the left side (when sitting in car), but I will likely build two of them. I'll keep everyone posted. Big updates should be coming after this coming weekend. I attached pictures of the location of the turbo AFTER lowering the mount by 1/2"! note how tall it still sticks over the fenders. Thanks.

Drat! Somehow I was thinking there would be all kinds of room for that install?! hmmm...Doesn't matter anyway needed to fabricate downpipe, oil cooler lines, intercooler piping. I wasn't about to wait 3 weeks to start all that nasty work. I'm going to hold off on my "this turbo fits great on the RAW Brokerage manifold" for now. Ran into issues last night...not all of which are completely solved as of yet...stay tuned. I did, however, find a GREAT spot to bolt the Honeywell Hall trigger straight to the oil pump cover. I will fabricate a mount to solidify it in it's location, but it sure looked convenient! I will need to machine a 12 tooth gear that will have to be like a flywheel ring gear on the outside of my Fluidampr harmonic balancer. Keep in mind that I am running Tomei pump and Fluidampr. This location may not work for anything else.

You clearly didn't see the pictures from yesterday on page 3! I left the crank bolt loose and the pulley should be easy to access with no radiator / fan in the way. I'm still waiting on my intake manifold anyway.