HarrisRacing

Simple genius there! Would save all several bucks on the home trigger.

Supposedly the data logs in high rpms (above 5k) show a drastic vibration of rpms (basically 900 rpm swings up and down). The higher the revs the more the swings...I do recall seeing a thread where this was datalogged clearly. I do see merits of crank pickup vs. cam pickup for rpm for sure so I'm planning that and actually I found a GREAT spot for the honeywell sensor to bolt straight on yesterday, just didn't get to sort out a wheel yet. I am planning on designing / modifying something like motec's 12 tooth trigger wheel (may need to be larger diameter since the OD of the fluidampr harmonic balancer is 6.125"). as for the clear cover...yeah it's a novelty. I just figured something had to be chopped up to fit Murrayis setup and I didn't want to cut my stock one up since it's also powdercoated gold like the cam and top covers. This is kinda why I'm leaning back towards the AEM wheel in the CAS so I can run that again. This website has been a great help. Thanks for the comments and feedback.

FYI... (while I'm keeping notes on my build) I called Haltech. The Haltech Platinum Pro (plug and play) for R32 can either use the factory CAS optical circuit OR use an AEM "24 and 1" trigger wheel in the CAS. The drop down menu selector for the trigger applies to the '24 and 1' setup. This setup would still retain the factory cam rpm "noise" due to the timing belt fluctuations. OR... You could use a hall trigger on the crank with a 12 tooth trigger wheel (or machine the crank balancer to have 12 slots) and this works as well with 24 and 1 setup due to the fact that the crank rotates 2x as fast as the cams (and 24 refers to cam rotation spots). you must use a Hall trigger or VR (reluctor) if you do this method (according to Haltech) and use either the AEM trigger wheel's '1' marker or the Murrayis single hall trigger for the "home" location on the camshaft. In the software you can lock the timing and use a timing light to tell the ECU where to start timing AFTER the 'home' cam trigger is fired to get to base TDC.

FYI this is 100% true. I called Haltech. Also in regards to the Haltech Platinum Pro Series on an RB26: You can use the "24 + 1" drop down option to: 1) Use Murrayis' cam angle sensor and honeywell hall trigger as the HOME sensor (the '1' in the "24 + 1") 2) Use 12 teeth on the crank with the honeywell sensor. IF YOU USE A WHEEL ON THE CRANK-You must use Hall-effect trigger or VR (reluctor) trigger!! (this is fine since this particular kit is designed around the honeywheel HALL trigger). I hate to say in this particular thread...but all this being said, you can use the factory CAS with the AEM 24+1 trigger wheel in it for the CAMSHAFT "HOME" location and Murrayis' CRANKSHAFT sensor with a 12 tooth pickup for the "24" sensor. This would still give you the resolution you need on the crankshaft and appear stock on the camshaft (ie- not cut up any covers). Thanks Patrick

So I've read. like I said the CAS will be replaced prior to tuning. I already have Murrayis kit for the cam as well as the two Honeywell sensors, but his kit for the crank ended up not clearing my Tomei oil pump. I'll be ordering a trigger gear for my crank pulley and machining it prior to turning up any real boost or rpms. The factory CAS will only be to run the engine in for break-in and to put a few miles on it.

Actually I'm going to be going back to the factory CAS until I get the car tuned and a timing pickup gear designed for my setup. Call me impatient, but these things can wait until later and I'd rather not have complications on initial engine run-in. I'd personally like to see the differences that crank-based timing pickup makes regardless. Still have lots to do and Redline shockproof is the best. Used it in all of my racecars so far...good to know! I'm saving my money for the R34 Nismo conversion. I like the fact that it will be all brand new components including driveshafts. This is still a majority street car that will handle some track days.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm aware the rear head "drain" really isn't required...but I had purchased it (as well as the Mines baffles) last year prior to knowing that...and I had welded a fitting into the front of my oil pan already for a return (there are 2 there, one for this, the other for the catch can setup) so what the heck I'll block it off if I really don't see a need for it. I'm running the stock Tomei restrictor and their oil pump on high-flow mode. I also will be running 2 cyclonic separators and then a catch can. I have lots of plumbing to do while I wait on the Hypertune. And yes the turbine speed gauge is high on my list, but not until we get the initial tuning and break-in done. I will be running low boost until I get that based on the fact that I'll be on the Haltech internal sensor (limited to 22 psi) and the Mid-range EFR boost cannister (20.6 psi). I think the car should still be a rocket on pumpgas with those components. Thanks again.

More progress. Still working all by myself and I don't know what I was thinking stabbing that motor and trans in there without an extra set of hands. That engine and trans is LONG! My brother had the lifts all tied up at the shop, but I wanted to get the engine and trans in so I could plan where and how to route my turbo and exhaust piping. I should have removed the hood I should have purchased a load-leveling device I should have gone in from the bottom (but the lifts were taken up) But despite all of that...I did it! Anyway it's in there! The NIsmo Super coppermix twin Clutch is a work of art. The vented center plate really sets it apart from other multi's that I have used in the past on other cars. I did decide to use ARP flywheel bolts instead of stock Nissan (I had them from the first clutch swap I planned). Turbo does NOT clear the underhood supports...bummer! I was so hoping it would. Also the power steering return line is in a bind and will need to be rerouted, but the AC lines look perfect! I'll be waiting on the hypertune V2 manifold for a couple of weeks, but for now it will be Oil catch can piping, coolant piping, and turbo / interecooler piping. There is LOTS of unsaid work when going single turbo. BUT it cleans up the engine bay to no end compared to the twins! Especially where the downpipe and turbo discharge areas are.

I agree that it can be done. Rotating the crank to the correct location to slack-out the belt and setting some "moderate" tension on it is what the idea behind it is. Too tight will wear belt fast, too loose may cause jump (which would have to be obviously too loose IMO). Remember to watch the tensioner as you rotate, you'll be surprised by it's movement by nothing other than cams / crank loading up. IIRC they are using the most slacked point in the rotation (ie-most slack taken up by tensioner), so if you set too hard of tension there, it's only going to get tighter from there. I see how it can be done your way...belt life may be diminished though. I'll trust the Nissan engineers got it right. Either way this timing belt is EASY compared to most other OHV engines I have done.

Pulled my thermostat to get good pics. I'll update with great pics and info shortly.

Specifically looking for the INSIDE of the thermostat housing block casting. This is where the water INLET neck bolts on and traps the thermostat. I know there is a freeze plug under it, just trying to gather a touch more information before deciding to writeup my cooling system explanation thread. Found what I was looking for thanks.

This timing belt is simple. The "tensioner spring" is only used to SET the timing belt tension the first time. There is NO MECHANISM on the RB26 to maintain tension during operation. This mechanical simplicity is fine due to the fact that these cars use short and simple timing belts. ALSO there is a very important step of checking the spring operation. They show a range of motion for it in the manual to make sure that you are getting enough tension on the belt where you are hooking the end of the spring on the stud. Line up marks: cams and crank pulleys Make sure tensioner spring is hooked on stud and in place and tensioner pulley is free to rotate Use crank bolt to rotate crank clockwise at least 2 turns and SLOWLY and evenly bring timing marks back into spot (watch the tensioner as you do this...it should move around a bit and you will see how the "tensioner" is taking up slack as you rotate the engine through). Note the position of the hex key slot on the tensioner and carefully insert hex key wrench. while holding the hex key in position, torque nut down on tensioner.

You'd be the coolest buy ever if you could get some fine graph paper and trace/etch out the shape to some sort of scale. You know, the indiana jones trick with the charcoal on top of the paper on top of the head. It would give everyone solid dimensions of the ports and resultant thickness. Also the full half-cut of the eshaust port would be great as well.

FYI you shouldn't have to worry about this any longer. I called CP and they are opening discussions with BC about these pistons. Said they totally see the crash after comparing them with other RB26dett custom pistons and considering stroke looks like it was overlooked somewhere somehow. You're welcome whoever you are... And for the record. The BC stroker 8.5:1 CR pistons with valve reliefs are 15.77cc of added dome...Need to take that into account if cutting head, running thin head gasket, etc. I think it's about 8.62:1 if running stock bores on a 1mm thick head gasket, and stock 70cc's in the head. Patrick

Oh and I agree with this. If you think about it, with the high pressure that is required to run 680kw, the runner diameter and flow starts to be less important. That is if you can keep from blowing the TB seals and manifold gaskets out of it. But on something like I'm building (street car with relatively low boost pressure and high rpm flow) the plenum and runner volume become more important at high rpms where the turbo starts to fall off of boost.

Do you have any pictures of how you routed the coolant back to the radiator?

Wow...no clue how I didn't notice this, but the main coolant OUTLET for the engine is located on the intake manifold. DUH. Your setup looks super easy (retaining that part that you took at all that time to port) for maintaining coolant outlet lines, but the Hypertune V2 Has AN fittings on bottom and top for coolant outlets. I now know that i'll have to build a manifold to collect the heater return, turbo water outlet, and the lower 4 AN fittings and make a hose connection to the radiator in addition to adding a swirl pot for the top 3 AN fittings. IMO the Hypertune should come with that for the money. Good news is, it has the GT cooling mod built in as the AN fittings are at the top point vs factory (where it turns down, thus creating a pocket), but I'm sure I could have had some fittings welded up to do the same if needed. Anyway, figured this applied to this conversation in the event that anyone was looking at doing it.

They asked what colors I wanted. I went with clear anodizing on the runners and plenum, with purple rails and purple accessories on TB. I'm curious, why black? I was thinking anything other than anodizing would reduce how sexxxy the welds are since powdercoating is a bit thicker!? Is is hard to keep clean? I think it came down to aesthetics this time...I was having a hard time thinking of redoing all of the TB seals, etc. and after getting the engine primarily together I started thinking of how "out of place" a stock manifold would look on this engine. The hypertune will greatly increase if nothing else, simplicity and that "race car" look...and it doesn't hurt that it's pretty much full-tilt-racecar parts.

Everyone loves pictures of progress! Decided on Hypertune V2 6 injector intake manifold with 90mm TB....ordered. 3 or so weeks out. Turbo is fit up (did not use gasket for now just in case there were issues). Looks great! everything is very accessible so far. Also fitted Murrayis cam timing components on the cam and it worked great. I had to cut my nitto timing cover to fit, but that's fine...I'll design / fabricate an additional cover to this one. FYI - they ARE m7 bolts! The Murrayis crank trigger didn't work with Tomei oil pump. The external adjustability simply is too thick of a casting for clearance for the sensor. I'll make something work here soon. Enjoy!

Murrayis, No sweat. The effort was valiant. As I like to say, "The credit belongs to the gladiator in the arena...not the critic in the stands". You've done great aside from pick an odd ball cap screw that I'll need to probably have machined, but i figure thats more of Nissan's fault than yours. To be fair I figured I was on my own with the crank dampener regardless...now we know. Now we are both gladiators in the arena. Send me the drawings, I am a mechanical engineer with the ability to get our problems solved and likely cap screws made! What is the bevel angle and diameter?

Sensor will bottom on oil pump before crank is all the way pulled in. So issue is the location.

OK helpful advice coming down the pipe. About the Cam wheel and trigger: 1) The flat head cap screws that the trigger is apparently designed for are near impossible to find. I will be making some myself by machining normal M7 cap screws. The cams have M7x1.00 pitch threads...yes M7x1.00. Should have known when I had to get the 11mm socket out that something was funny. With my Tomei cam gears (and Tomei cams) I needed 43mm of depth for a NORMAL headed bolt to go on. a flat head screws should be similar length...Flat head cap screws are a great idea though because the countersinking will allow more room under the top timing cover (I'll get to that in #3 below). I have attached a picture showing NORMAL BOLTS M7x1.00 (50mm cut down to 43mm length). I also am using the factory plate and added lock washers. 2) Be Prepared to cut your timing cover. Thank goodness I had this gaudy Nitto clear cover and it trimmed out very easily. The sensor still SLIGHTLY protrudes into the flat plane of the cover, but I bet I could lightly file it (1/8" or so). I will be making a new plate to rivet on to my Nitto cover in the shape of the (sorry to say) Alien-head-shaped hole. Again see pictures for clarification. Not much about the design could be changed to rectify this. 3) The bolts from #1 above will definitely break the plane unless I find some flat head (countersunk) M7x1.00 cap screws. I'm telling you they are impossible to find...I'll be making some. Crank pulley trigger: 1) I have the Tomei oil pump and it's cast differently than the factory oil pump. The pressure adjusting part of the Tomei oil pump makes the installation of the lower trigger impossible. I will have to make another option. Also It looks like my Fluidampr harmonic balancer won't work either. I will be making another tooth and pickup arrangement for my setup, but I kinda suspected that before ordering (and now we know!). Also note in my pictures that the harmonic balancer is not pulled very far onto the crankshaft yet. Overall very pleased. WE need to find a solution for the cap screws on the cams and I believe this should be included in future kits. Thanks!!

I received clarification from Pete at Hypertune and figured I would pass on the knowledge to all. The original hypertune manifold is pictured above by Rbdirty30. Removes the factory individual TBs and replaces from there up. Keeps the factory coolant / injector plate between manifold and head. The new V2 manifold goes all the way up to the head. It replaces all of the parts including the TBs, coolant /injector plate. They are ALL machined as if 12 injectors would be installed, but if you order the 6 injector model the final injector holes are not drilled and you will not receive the additional fuel rail. You can upgrade to 12 later simply by drilling the holes and ordering the additional fuel rail. I do believe they offer 90 and 105mm TB as options. The kit includes fittings for fuel, coolant and air bleed, as well as adapter kit for TPS and IAC. I am definitely going with the V2 on my setup. I have attached pictures of the 12 injector setup that they sent me. The 6 just removes one fuel rail.

Ahh thanks for the repy...but V2 replaces the complete setup back to the cylinder head including the coolant manifold. Again this is part of the confusion with what models they offer.

I'm contemplating dumping the stock intake / tb's on my build project (2.75L stroker, ported head, cams, BW 8374EFR) and going to single TB manifold setup for a number of reasons and would like to get your feedback input on the hypertune manifold My search indicated that I will likely be at or around the power level that one would imagine a bigger manifold / tb swap will make more HP, but that's not all I'm after. For the same reason I went single turbo with internal wastegate...I like simplicity...I would like to stick with the plan. The Hypertune V2, from my understanding offers: 1) lighter weight, less cluttered setup 2) Less possible leak points and easier tuning with my Haltech 3) higher flowing setup ultimately (ok arguably after the 450-500kw level) 4) the ability to perform the GT cooling mod straight off of the manifold bosses Am I correct in the assumptions above? Would you guys go with this setup and why / why not? What other options are there? I did search, didn't find much on the V2 anywhere. Also not sure about the 12/6 injector setups so I emailed them and am awaiting response. Thanks! Patrick