HarrisRacing

FINALLY received the cylinder head. Machine work looks good, and they definitely did finish cleaning up my port work. The head is on and the engine is getting better! I couldn't mount the turbo and manifold because the shop forgot to send my studs back after the machine work. They sent out a brand new set! Also showed how I did the mine's triple baffle covers. (instructions in Japanese, but English converted instructions are available on this forum). It should be noted that the cam cap covers need to be moved to the rear of the head. Observe pictures. And the color for the valve covers looks GREAT. More like GOLDZYLA. Also I'm going to use Murrays timing pickup conversion, but I didn't have bolts. From what I measured last night, I will need 7mmx1.00 thread x 43mm long bolts (or somewhere thereabout). I'll have pictures of that setup bolted in place by the end of the week.

Yes there are 5 places to grind. 4 of them allow the diff to be installed. (Mine simply would NOT go without these ground clear). The 5th place needs to be relieved so the LSD can rotate. It is the boss for the bolt threads next to the oil pan side. I didn't grind this one enough in the pictures below and the next group of pictures didn't come out clear after I ground it later...but had the same exact issue your mechanic had. You'll see some marking and grinding in the pictures below...the bolt boss wasn't ground enough and the wider diameter of the new LSD wouldn't clear in 4 places of rotation. When you fit it, you can easily see clearance issue (as your mechanic did). What...you don't have a japanese mechanic? The instructions were very clear (if you know Japanese!) Make sure he gets his shims and preload right! The preload on this front diff is so low it's laughable (AND HARD TO GET RIGHT).

Hell yeah. I'm in the USA too. Here I am thinking of seeing 550 whp on pumpgas and I'm at sea level and I'm on a stroker motor. Heck I may see 650 whp on pump after seeing this !

Not sure on your specific engine (as I have never seen that engine in person), but I did this exact job on a 2JZ Supra. It's not easy working valve stem seals all day laying on the engine, and depending on miles you may want to take the valves out and lap them / clean / port the head while you are at it for not much more expense than a new head gasket...which isn't a lot of money. But if you are talking valve stem seals, then I can assume it's got some miles. I would be pulling the head unless you just want it to stop smoking on startup and off idle. Also I'm sure the studs could be changed while the engine is in the car, but you may want someone to cofirm. My .02.

Trying not to hijack your thread, but wanted to add. Bought mine for $16,5k already in the states with title in my state of residence knowing it had rod knock. I went totally over the top on my build and spent WAY too much, but my budget was initially $27k. I'll be touching $40k soon I'm sure. But this car will be a rocket with all brand new parts. I will still need to go through the transmission though.

New plate finally arrived. STILL WAITING ON CYLINDER HEAD !!!!! 4 and a half Months!!!

Absolutely. I'm a Professional Mechanical Engineer. Been doing oilfield project management and design for 15 years now. Everything from the wellhead all the way through refining. Did quite a few mid-stream projects for various pipeline companies. You'd be dealing with my CWI's for most projects. Small world! If you end up in Lafayette drop me a line. We'll drink beers and 'play skylines'

Looks like a great project! Where are you located? I'm in Louisiana. My project spiraled out of control as well (check my build thread here). Hopefully mine will be on the road soon!

My apologies. You are correct about the 6262. Gen 2 added a lot of power. I edited my response. Thanks.

Depends on the engine build, max RPM, fuel used, and purpose of the car - but I would look into the 6062 Gen2 for a street 2.6L. Rated at 750HP, the 6262 is 705HP [edited], 6266 is 800HP, and the 6466 is 900HP. I wish precision published compressor maps...It would make it easier to help pick a turbo that matches your goals. FYI I went with BW 8374 EFR and divided internal wastegated .92 housing and I'm on a stroker 2.75L with milder cams for a better powerband for the street. I'll have dyno information soon, but if you search some of my threads I posted some 2.6L vs. 2.75L stroker match-bot (BW's turbo selection software) potential power graphs to show what the turbos do differently on these engines. If only we could compare them to the precisions. http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/600-800HP/details/Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---GEN2-PT6062-CEA%C2%AE/582

Oh there are always worries at 10k rpms of boosted rotating mass at your heels! But yes, everything I have picked for my setup is to keep the rpms lower and powerband more responsive. Cams, turbo, stroker, etc. I honestly think my bottom end will handle anything this turbo can give it. I have calculated that the 8374 EFR on my 2.75L stroker will start dropping boost sustainability (only 22 psi) at 8,500 rpms (max air flow of 79 lbs/min) but will be dropping power earlier at 7,500 rpms. Maybe I'll set the boost drop threshold as redline, but after seeing videos of how well the RB28 in the Z-tune responds (and from what it looks like an 8250 rpm limit), I'm thinking I'll be right there with their response level which will be fine with me. And thank you for your input...it is appreciated. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all. After pulling an engine that suffered such massive rod bearing failure from my car, I'm thinking lower rpms and more displacement is what I wanted to go for - IE reliability. Of course I do not know the circumstances under which this engine failed as I purchased it with a rod knock.

sorry to keep steering this away from turbos, but BC (and myself as a mechanical engineer) feel that a billet chromoly crankshaft is considerably stronger than stock based on materials selection alone. The marginal increase in stroke (73.7mm stock to 79mm BC) therefore does NOT reduce overall usable powerband on the RB26 (ie I will not have to LOWER the rev limiter over stock when using this crankshaft). This is one reason you don't lose RPM with a GOOD stroker crankshaft in these engines. I think I will see how the car acts on the dyno and will likely still be keeping mine at the 8250 factory redline, but after talking to BC (prior to ordering mine) I'm pretty sure I recall discussing a figure in the 9k-9,500 on the crank with an insane HP rating...and I went with the lower duty "sportsman" rods...because I wasn't going to make more than 200HP per rod. The only difference between their sportsman and +625 rods is the fasteners. Rods are exactly the same.

This is one of the big questions I was looking for initially as well. I have a new N1 block on stock bores and a BC stroker (makes it 2.75L)...I decided NOT to grout my block because I too am limiting myself with turbo size (BW 8374 EFR)...where should I stop? I was assuming I could max this turbo out on my setup if I wanted to and the block would be fine. Again street car with some lapping days in it's future so I was erring on the low end / reliable side of things.

Oh man that car is FAST!!! Any clue on the build?!

Things are finally going together. They will be done with my cylinder head and it will be shipped out in 3 days! This is good news. I also received the manifold from RAW BROKERAGE. It's their internally wastegated, divided manifold for the BW EFR 8374 turbo that I have. I'm liking the simplicity of IWG design and setup and this manifold is truly a work of art. The collector is absolutely sexy inside and out. Spent some time setting up the NISMO LSD in the front diff. I went with the 1.5 way kit. It came with new bearings, seals, etc. I did have to change the side cover shim and luckily everything else fell right in spec after I got that shim correct. The gear blueing, preloads, etc worked great. Expect some REALLY cool pictures as soon as I get that head, because it should start looking like a complete engine very shortly after.

I was going to be able to get one from the UK, but it was going to be more than double what I paid for the NISMO unit from Japan. Nismo came with bearings, races, and seals, but not any shims and for the $895 USD I paid for it, I am very impressed with quality so far. I should be done with setup today. I made some shims last night and after I get preload and gear bedding checked I'll be in business. FYI...while we are talking about it, this is THE BEST video for rear end and differential setup I have ever seen (link below). Answers every single question and is similar to our units once you read the shop manual. Get in your mind the fact that you will be putting it together and taking apart and reshimming several times before you start so you won't be disappointed with the amount of work. And don't EVER let anyone tell you you can just swap the diff and keep the same shims. That would be pure dumb luck. I am hoping the only thing that works out in that regard is the pinion depth since I didn't pull that connection apart during all of my build. My diff shims didn't work out at all (so far). AND this is a picture of the tool that I made for pulling the races. I used a 2-jaw puller and ground some bolts into little hooks thin enough to fit into the grooves. To push (and this is the risky part) I used a flat piece of steel (1/4" thick) and drileld a hole in it to center the puller tool (not really "centered", but you get the idea) It worked perfectly. I know there is a tool for this and found it for $85, but delivery was like 10 days and I'm cheap. Two bolts plus a puller I had already.

I went GT Pro 1.5 way NISMO for my front diff on my build. I won't be able to say anything to compare to even stock as I never drove the car before installing the NISMO unit (rod knock when I got it so it's pretty much full build everything once). It should be noted that QUAIFE will not offer this diff to the USA unless an order of 10 or more is placed. Trust me I called every shop imaginable here to try to get it and would have preferred the unit over a clutch type. In my experience with something like a GTR where the front is intermittently used the Quaife TORSEN would be a great application. Geoff from full-race is a believer for sure from his usage on EVO's, etc. I will have track and street information about the NISMO unit hopefully by the end of the year.

Heard back from BC technical. They say that the BC single spring retainers are a direct dimensional copy of the factory retainer, except in Titanium. I didn't get so far as the valves, but he said he had talked to the shop the day before and explained the rest to them. So, per his advice we shouldn't be seeing any issues. I'll wait to see what the shop says. Patrick

Greetings, I'm hearing from my head shop that there is some issue with the Brian Crower single springs + Ti retainers with the factory shims and buckets. Apparently the retainers to not have a recess to keep the shims in place under the buckets (centered on top of valve stems) OR the valve stem extends too high up from the locks and retainers for the factory shims to be retained (he wasn't totally clear). I have SS BC valves, BC valve guides, BC single springs, BC Ti Retainers, BC locks, factory shims, factory buckets. Basically ALL BC parts in the valvetrain...Has anyone had this issue before? Does anyone have any of these parts installed currently? If so, what was the solution? I'm curious and I left a message with BC technical and I do believe the shop is working with BC for a solution, but I'm just questioning that this could be the case or what else could be the issue with this installation. Thanks in advance. Patrick

I'll mirror the same question and ask specifically what you are doing with the oil fill cap vapors?

I have one, but I am still waiting on my cylinder head and my manifold for my 83/74 .91 AR IWG turbo now from RAW Brokerage. I will have pumpgas dyno numbers hopefully before summer, but it will be on a BC stroker motor w/ ported head and mild cams.

Still chugging alot while waiting for the cylinder head to come back from the shop. So I did the oil pan sump and -10 AN fittings. I used the Summitracing weld-on fittings and it worked great. Still just waiting on head and the RAW BROKERAGE manifold for the internal gate to arrive. I'm going back with a NISMO LSD diff in the front.

Mine arrived and look perfect! VERY VERY impressed with the kit! This is a no-brainer compared to the other options out there and is extremely professional. Don't worry pictures are coming as soon as I get the head on my engine.

Yes...yes we do! Thank You

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/i467/mach-schnell/M5OS.jpg http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/cyclone_plan.cfm Basic cyclonic separator design. Seen them used and designed in the oilfield as well.