HarrisRacing

HOLY SMOKES! Need to bring plug gap down because It's breaking up at 24-25 psig but DAMN!!! I'm SO close to 700! It was 41 deg F tonight and I think the cold air was making it break up where it didn't the other day (was 67 deg F). But wow when the weather clears up I can not wait to drive it!

Getting there on power. 24-25 psi boost. Still have turbo left! Speed sensor says 105k rpms on the 8374

And some more.

More progress

More progress

Looking at EVO dynos is cheating. Especially USA ones. That being said here are some things to consider. I am running on a calibrated dynocomm dyno. We used 5 stock cars to get the corrections accurate. The issue is, however, that it is an inertia dyno. My car actually spools MUCH lower on the street than this chart looks so it's not really fair to use dyno's across each other for spoolup comparison. I like to use street logs in 3rd or 4th gear from a 2k punch for that. I don't have any logs on my new setup from 2k punch in 3rd yet, but I do have one from a cruising 2600 rpm punch (which should be worse actually). It hits 15.3 psig at 3636 rpms in 3rd. Then I attached my OOPS of the high boost test which happened on the dyno when I fat-fingered a boost duty cycle. It shows 35.8 psig at 4700 rpms on the dyno in 3rd! It would come on waaay faster on the street under load. I attached my old haltech log for a 2k punch as well. To support some more of your theory: The low boost numbers don't tell all of the story. The bigger turbos REALLY shine at high pressures and you are right a 7670 compared to an 8374 will likely not diverge all that much (aside from better boost threshold of the 7670) in overall power from 15-17 psig. This is because at those pressures the 7670 can still SUPPLY air to the engine and EMAP of the turbine is really not that detrimental to exhaust out of the car. But when you get to 20-24 psig that turbo is DONE and dying fast ( and EMAP will rise fast on top end and choke power) and the 8374 is still shining. My 8374 made 504 rwhp on 15.5 psig on pure 93 octane (your RON 98). It made 633 whp at only 21 still on 93 with a touch of water meth for protection. However, it didn't make much more POWER than this at 23-24 psi indicating that the EMAP is keeping my exhaust from exiting the turbine at the higher boost levels (or my cams are too overlapped).

I'm running 8374 EFR .92 on a 2.75L stroker and it's ALL IN at 3600 rpms. Actually on the new EMU Black (just switched from Haltech Platinum) I accidentally setup the boost wrong and it made 36 psi at 4700 rpms!! Anyway I do like the .92 IWG for simplicity and I think 2.6L guys pass them up for some reason, but I think it is a good fit on a 2.6L. That being said...I'd still go with an external gated solution because of exhaust housing options. That .92 housing looks like a "catch-all" housing and my ONLY upgrade from here is a 9180 .92...which seems counter productive at my level. About matchbot - Fuel is a HUGE driver on it. Look hard between pumpgas and E85...I have recently considered the jump to E85 (actually redoing all of my fuel now in preparation for it), but ALL of these turbos really take off and stretch further on it. They are better in the compressor maps as well if you pay close attention to what they are changing. I am at 636 whp on 21 psig with 93 octane and a *little* water meth just to fight knock on the street (since I haven't installed my giant intercooler yet) and I get an extremely responsive fullboost at 3600 rpms. If you really plan on running 30 psi you will likely need to taper off boost as fast as it onsets to keep speeds down. On pumpgas at 21 psi I'm already at the limit on the 8374 .92 on top end. E85 will stretch this a good margin, but 30 is just going to blow tires or break things for sure as hard as the car already pulls.

More work on the fuel system. I found a level gauge that is the same range as stock and only 1" shorter in height so I'm good with the level being off a bit. New design will have a 460 sucking off bottom and filling the new sump. This new sump has the 2 PWM fuel pumps in it and now everything in the tank is pulse width modulated.

so twin gates....I can weld that up in a weekend. really thinking twins though...the smallest efr are looking strong out to 88lbs min

Ok...so Twins? All I need to know is the answer..I'll do it.

Things are going well! EMU black is up and running very well. I ended up cutting 36 notches and doing a -1 on the crank pulley for better resolution and a crank HOME signal. I also machined a new GT101 sensor holder for the camshaft on my home CNC machine and TIG'd it up. Drive by wire works perfectly! Never thought I would like it as much as I do, but the idle...high idle while cold until it warms ups, etc all works GREAT. Got some new numbers on the tune but I think the limits of this .92 housing is about 640 whp. Only could get 636 whp and 515 TQ out of it this time. I think my old numbers are bad. That or my cams are now too overlapped from the tighter shims. I will be dynoing more to get an idea, but full race thinks I should go dual EFR's or slap the 9180 .92 on and see what it does. Not that I'm not happy with 636 whp and the car FLIES, but it made NO more power going from 21-24 psi boost...it's too choked on top end...only gained in midrange...even after more timing and Water+Meth. Cool thing is on pumpgas and WASTEGATE pressure of 15.5 psi it runs 504 whp! and it REALLY hauls at 21 psi now (AND I GET SOLID BOOST!!!). Also started on a new sump design that drops in the tank from the top. 2x 460 walbros and a 3rd feeding this sealed sump. It's coming together nicely! ENJOY!

It actually simplifies a lot of things. No more idle air control motor external of my intake manifold. When I overlapped the cams real hard I lost vacuum signal and it made the car not be able to idle in full range with all of my accessories and air conditioning going. So the other idea is that now I will have a position knob that I can change sport mode on the throttle pedal on the car as I drive it. I will also have rolling anti lag. I will also have Cruise control!

Yes to speed sensor. No to turbine. I'm running my cams pretty overlapped...going for bottom end HP.

Getting there! New dyno and drivability coming soon! Anyone intrested in the EMU black should not buy the RB26 adapter. It is for a standard EMU and caused nothing but issues when trying to Wire with it. That being said the electric throttle body idols incredibly well so far and I haven't even touched it yet. The auto tune feature is extremely handy for getting your base fuel correct and seems to get within 1% on the first try. So soon dyno numbers will be with new Bosch 2 wire knock sensors, water meth injection, and valve lash tightened throughout. Hoping for 700 whp this time.

Got the EMU black almost all wired in but had to test the electronic TB setup. Pretty sweet setup so far!

Getting close. Finished the conversion of pinouts etc in a spreadsheet and in the emu software. Time to get to wiring! Also should be able to change cam gear settings easier now after milling the bracket.

Here is the TB adaptor...made it before I bought the CNC machine. Oh yeah forgot I put SPARCO seats in it.

Prototype sensor holder for now. Will be aluminum soon. Just testing the CNC mill. Have not run the car on the new ecu yet so I can't comment on the pedal yet. But the plan is better idle and drivability. Also may allow for CRUISE CONTROL with later firmware update. Allows for rolling anti-lag. Also can totally map pedal sensitivity with a knob from in car to swap responsiveness on the fly later. Also allows throttle blip on downshift. We shall see.

Been quite a while. New job...working like mad and went to Washington DC for vacation with the wife and kiddos. Also bought a C5 vette that I'm gutting and building a track car out of. And I picked up an Exige with only 5k miles on it in BRITISH RACING GREEN! Anyway back to the skyline... Getting car ready for an event down here called skyline nationals. I finally got shims and redid my valve clearances. I have all of them identical save for 1. Set the intake at .010" and exhaust at .014" (one is .015"). This should net me better compression across cylinders now. Before I had spreads from .021" to .016" on intake and .018" to .014" on exhaust. Cams still look perfect. Motor looks CLEAN. New HKS timing belt while I was at it and I bought a small CNC mill / lathe combo. First part is a prototype CAS replacement that holds GT101 sensor. It's oak wood for now but aluminum coming up soon. Also made an adaptor and installed GM electronic 90mm TB. This will be controlled by new EMU black ecu...so no more haltech. The ecu also allowed me to increase crank trigger resolution. Now I'm at 36 teeth instead of 12 (limit of haltech platinum). I also installed a high rate GT101 sensor on the crank to replace the honeywell part (which was beyond specs at high rpms). Installed Corvette electronic pedal. Machined a small plate adaptor out of like 1/8" thick aluminum plate. You could easily use a drill press and jigsaw/bansaw. Also installed new bosch knock sensors and now moving to electric fans. Last final drag runs were all 126.6-126.2 mph in low 11 range. Still on US93 octane. Also bought water/meth injection and will be trying to push this 8374 EFR .92 IWG a bit harder. Why all the changes? 1) idle quality...with cams overlapped the factory IAC was maxxed...had to set revs too high. The GM TB will now control all air to engine. 2) rolling antilag. Yes the emu black with electronic pedal and TB will run rolling antilag [emoji4] 3) better boost control. The algorithm IS better in the program for sure. 4) bluetooth logging and remote bluetooth gauge app (no more laptop riding in car for passes). Wiring coming up this weekend!

Currently changing from Haltech platinum to EMU Black. Also resetting my out of spec shims (been this way forever), and going to water/meth injection. 20 psi is 126.7 mph now. I can't imagine 27-31!

Damn. Pure pumpgas and no knock at 26 psig!? I knock around 20.5 on my 8374efr on pure 93 octane (RON 98)

Can't really read from the graph (sorry blurry and at an angle), but what power did it make on pumpgas (looks like 620?) and what boost level to achieve that? Same question for E85. Dang...mustang dyno those are STRONG numbers!

Have you you tried inducing overlap in the cams a bit? May car (granted on 8374 .92 IWG) spooled 5-600 rpms sooner and made 30 more ft-lbs of tq when I rolled the cams in. HUGE difference on boost threshold and mid range. I did lose 10 hp on top but the car overall is def faster and easier to drive

I'm on 2.75l stroker on 8374 EFR .92 and pushing 515 wtq and 600 whp on super coppermix twin. Holding for drag runs fine so far

Not sure on the wastegates but I would say you are on the correct path with that housing (without knowing your displacement, intended use, etc). My 2.75 L stock bore stroker will hit 21 psi at 3,600 rpms in 3rd gear from a 2k rolling punch on the .92 IWG 8374. I have smaller cams like you and have set them to overlap for more mid range. It is a punchy street car 93 octane setup for sure and I like it (E85 is still not at the pump here), but I know I'm leaving power on the table at top end with cams overlapped and the smaller IWG housing. You being on the 9174 I would say definitely would require more exhaust AR.