HarrisRacing

Ran at the track last weekend. Still pumpgas and 18-19 psi boost on the 255 Hankook RS3 street tires. Only got two runs in: Run 1 (straight off the highway still hot): 1.781 60' [email protected] 1/8 mile [email protected] 1/4 mile Run 2 (only got two runs temp was 70 deg F) 1.695 60' [email protected] 1/8 mile 11.19@ 121.7 1/4 mile

Do you have any 11.1 sec timeslips on pumpgas and small street tires (notice not even drag radials) in a full size GT-R that you want to share on your turbo setup? Don't forget I'm still on the stock R32 gearbox! I mean say what you want but the car is out-accelerating a LOT of other full size GT-Rs that put down much more power so far. I've got more left in this setup even on pumpgas...I know it's got a 10 sec pass on pumpgas in it!. It does not mean my car isn't very fast and very responsive for a street car. Again we are all here waiting on data for comparison instead of just words. I'm providing LOTS of data!

***** EDIT. Observe strikethroughs below. I proved this incorrect later with an EXTENSIVE dyno session. My car LOVES overlap on powerband. Was able to go 6deg intake advance and 4 deg exhaust retard (CRANK DEGREES...NOT CAM), and the car picked up BIG power in midrange. It does, unfortunately, sound like a cammed out racecar at idle now :). ************************************************************* From what I've read the only changes that Nissan made on the N1 cams are the timing...not with the actual profile. They moved the exhaust cam retarded 5 degree which makes for 5 deg of overlap vs. the factory set 0 for non-N1 cars..but they did this on the cam and not with the gear. So in a sense everyone has N1 cams if you buy an exhaust cam gear and retard it 5 deg at the crank (or 2.5 on the cam). If you think about it, I think this alone is likely where everyone gets the idea of the cam timing set at "-4 EX, +2 IN" which puts your overlap at 6 deg...when the N1 was 5 deg overlap (all done with the exhaust cam) from the factory. 6 one, half-dozen the other. But when you add aftermarket cams, I found that going further on overlap started hurting my car's power. For example, my Tomei Poncam A's are 31 deg overlap when set at 0,0. When I tried the typical "-4 EX, +2 IN" It was too aggressive in the mid range and started losing on top. I'm currently at 0, 0 with Tomei Poncam A's. With factory I would have induced some overlap like most people do though. I'm shortly going to hit the dyno and try to advance the exhaust cam to go LESS overlap which should make for a smoother idling car and more power on top end (<---THIS MADE LESS TQ BUT SIMILAR POWER - WAS BETTER POWERBAND WITH OVERLAP!). But really I see no reason to ever be 0 overlap on such a high-revving engine. I have attached a screenshot of my excel spreadsheet for looking at cam timing changes w/ respect to overall valve opening and closing as well as the spreadsheet. Cam timing overlap changes.xlsx

Standard intercooler, 3" exhaust, terrible AEM 380 lph fuel pump (that STILL can't keep up!), Too rich tune, add excuses here! But really the car doesn't feel like it noses over at all. In fact, I had a run-in with a new Z06 with the Z07 package with the A-8 trans and I'll be honest it was a pretty dang dead-heat race for gears 2 and 3 (I'd guess 40 mph to 110). So I dunno, but I'm still getting there and soon to start making changes to go for more power. I'd still like comparison data to more people with pumpgas and street tires (non drag-radials) to see how I'm falling out on power.

And E85 @29 psi vs my 18-19 on 93 octane. I'd like comparisons to other people on pumpgas (I think your comparison is not fair). On E85 and 30 psi i think I'll have no problem getting deep in the 10's in a car setup for road course work! [emoji106]

In these for sure. But what I'm saying is compare these with my new 11.1 and then compare that to usmair's run (on high boost). In still 99 mph in the 1/8 mile and only gaining to 122 in 1/4? Doesn't make sense to me because the car feels strong all the way up (see video) and it seems to be inline with others videos for similar times.

To be honest i was thinking that i need to go to another track as insane as that sounds just for good measure. I mean it could just be hooking that good but I'm only on 255 hankook RS3 tires (yes 200 treadwear sport tires) and HKS's stiffest coilovers. How about the 1/8 mile time and mph? Perhaps it's just falling on it's face on top? It sure doesn't feel like it! Also I attached my old time slip from this summer. I find it odd that i could have gained 5mph in the 1/8 and less than 2 in the 1/4?!

Response for road racing or street car is what you are gaining as well as a very compact package that usually saves money if you add up all other parts. Just price a ball bearing garret or precision, plus a gate, plus BOV, plus piping to route WG back to exhaust and you'll find the BW EFR is very competitive in price and features (if not the best value). If you want a drag car and don't care of bottom end or mid-range response it really doesn't matter and every turbo manufacturer will likely give the same response. Again my car is just one example at only 18 psi boost. But i can tell you that it responds extremely well for a street turbo! EDIT- i priced a BB CEA 6266 with wastegate, bov and came up with around $2250. Full race has the IWG .92 8374 EFR for $2450. You'll die but I got my 8374 EFR .92 IWG for $1640 because it was priced wrong on ebay and they honored it. I'm sure they meant to type $2640 but heck it's on the car now so mine was an absolute no-brainer and probably not repeatable. Also i think a 1.05 housing would be a better choice on my stroker, but I like the simplicity of the IWG. If I feel the 8374 isn't enough (and I'm contemplating it) i may go to the 9180 which is easy swap and I'm sure will have enough turbine flow on the .92.

Also it should be noted that I don't run "antilag" I only have a mapped rev limit vs. speed. At 0 speed I have a 5500 rpms limit that actually is setup to soft cut at 250 rpms before the limit (5250). This limit goes back to 8250 (essentially start soft cut at 8k) everywhere over 2 mph. It's a simple table to make. I found that if I launched with any sort of plus fuel and retarded timing antilag the turbo would spool so fast I would blow tires off the line every time. Just a note...VERY responsive turbo. My brother drove the car home and was just astounded at how well the turbo works with the car for drivability. And to think I'm not on E85 yet and it's likely got 150 more WHP in it!?

Wish me luck! Still trying pumpgas. Vids and logs to follow. UPDATE************************ 11.1 @ 122 Like what with the mph!? Got too aggressive with timing and it knocked at 7k in 3rd and 4th which kinda crushed my mph. Straight off the highway ran 11.47 @ 123.4 everyone was breaking all night so i only got 2 runs. Also this is 100% only 18-19 psi. I'll post logs when i get home.

Oh and here are some "comparisons" of -7 turbo to 8374 EFR. Lol - it's on topic, right?

Khezz et. all. I received a message from a moderator that I was out of line digging on you in the EFR turbos thread - so I'll formally apologize now. I didn't mean for my words to come off as harsh and was really just trying to queue you in that the past history of the other thread was that it went south from some people who made lots of claims about other turbos without accompanying data and started basically running our thread in the ground with those claims. I have tried very hard to stay purely objective because you will find that a lot of the EFR guys respond with "This turbo is super responsive and is just awesome" - a claim that is hard to backup without LOTS of comparing data. On the other hand it apparently triggers emotional responses from other turbo owners as well. So when others like yourself come in and talk about their decision to choose a turbo other than an EFR for a future theoretical rebuild with no other reasoning than brand name the red flag goes up for some us. I truly hope you get your car finished and there is a wealth of information out there for setup advice. I have a HUGE build thread that will help you avoid mistakes that I made over the course of my build and again come back to us with some data when you are done. I can tell you that the precisions are pretty dang good turbos and you likely won't be disappointed - I ran one on my last racecar, but I can also tell you that the EFR I am running is truly un-paralleled in overall available features for the money. My wastegate, turbo, blow-off-vlave, boost control solenoid, and very shortly my turbo rpm sensor are wrapped up into one compact package (comparatively speaking) which has so far been an incredible choice for my engine especially given the price for all of it. The match-bot program is the best I have ever seen and I have helped plan 3 other turbo choices for other engines locally. For me, the decision was easy. I see others are knocking the speed sensor, and it's a totally available option for the EFR. Do I think it's necessity? No. But as a mechanical engineer I will ALWAYS welcome more data and for the sake of the education I am taking the charge and will install it to know EXACTLY where I am at on the compressor map. One HUGE advantage of the EFR is the simplicity of this installation (it's already cast into the compressor housing). Doing this yourself without extensive machine work is a major undertaking on the Precision turbos and even then what would it tell you about where you are on the compressor map? So please ALL posters start taking into consideration what you are saying and it's intentions. Please qualify your statements with actual data. I have provided LOTS of logs, videos, etc from my setup. So if you come here with "I'm loving my 3.0 L -5 setup" please give us some data to show why or how it compares to other data (spool times, dyno graphs, 1/4 mile times, data logs, etc). I'm running Haltech and I'll post any logs you like on my car (well what I can do on pumpgas for now). Also To defend the rpm explosion claim and to further stick on topic: Perhaps Geoff could fill us in, but I haven't heard of it happening yet. They run these turbos on the US INDY car circuit here, so they must be good for something!

Here is why for me. It will cost me $725 (plus shipping) to install the road rage gauge while still using my wideband and other engine protection sensors. I should only need this gauge to protect my turbo when I move to E85. E85 conversion will require the E85 sensor (which I already have, but not wired in because I'll need I/O Expansion to add any more 0-5V inputs). So I'm at a point where this whole integration becomes very expensive. Couple that will the fact that I'll likely need 2 walbro 460's and a new set of at least ID 1400cc injectors to run the E85, and likely move up from my 3" exhaust and stock intercooler and you get the idea that the next 150 whp will cost me easily several thousand USD! Everytime I think about the jump I think of how far I am away. I still think I could run a low 11 second pass on pumpgas here shortly with nicer weather....Not to mention I'm still on a stock trans! Road Rage Gages - TSS (turbo speed scaler) $98.25 $98.25 BorgWarner EFR Turbo Speed Sensor Kit $156.61 $156.61 HT-059991 CAN HUB-Mini 3 Port - for use with up to two CAN devices (includes 1 x White 300mm/12" CAN cable) Edit $67.00 $67.00 Remove item HT-059902 IO 12 Expander Box A - CAN Based 12 Channel inc Plug & Pins (includes Black 600mm CAN Cable) Edit $374.00 $374.00 Remove item HT-040053 Haltech CAN Cable White 150mm Edit $29.00 $29.00 Remove item Again, I could just spend the ~$250 on the scaler and the sensor and temporarily tie it in to check speeds then revert back to my oil temp or oil pressure sensors later.

I'll be running the road rage gauge before the end of the year. I am out of 5v inputs on the Haltech so I need a CAN HUB, and a 12 I/O hub so I can still use my Haltech Wideband as well (It's currently using the CANHUB adaptor), so you could imagine I was dodging the extra expense since I'm still on pumpgas. I could just temporarily swap my oil temp sensor (since winter is approaching) I guess so I'll look into ordering the gauge first to at least get data before I start the E85 conversion. Two E85 stations are being built in my town and target opening is November!!!! SUPER EXCITED to potentially gain another 150 whp.

Khezz...thank you for your input and feedback. But there is an issue that you don't have a Precision or an EFR so if you don't have anything to add regarding your personal experience with either of these turbos please stop cluttering our thread. Stuff like this killed our last thread and I'm sure we (the participants who have run the turbos you are talking about on our cars) would like to keep it concise and to the point. Again, we understand your intentions, but the theoretical differences between the precision and the BW EFR are already documented and anyone can find the data online. We are looking for specific results for comparisons. Not trying to be rude or personal, but the thread is for EFR turbos and emphasis is on ACTUAL comparison and ACTUAL data or if you need help planning on which one to get we can help you model your results in matchbot (but you are TOTALLY on your own with a Precision because no data exists on them). Thank you!

Looking nice! We FINALLY got a sort of cool front in down here and the temp is 69F today. WOW the car gained a BUNCH of power! I see it may be in the 50's this weekend so I'm going to try to get one more pumpgas run at the track this weekend to see what it will do when it's not 100 degrees and 100% humid out. I'm hoping to be in the 11.4 range at 124 or so on pump...let's see what happens!

I would hope! Thats a ton of power. I ran 120 mph on 464 whp and you've got way more midrange.

What about me? Sounds like he's got a cooler. I'm almost tapped on money these days (oilfield sucks here lately). I need a sponsor!

Station is targeting completion in november. I'm hoping to have fuel pumps, 3.5" exhaust, and mega huge injectors done by then. I'm still on stock fmic so we will see what it can flow!

Umair, I took the liberty of converting your results to excel and graphing them vs my pumpgas results (including corresponding boost curves). Looks like my combo of stock-bore 79mm stroker (2.75L) and/or the .92 IWG housing turbo is making a bit more bottom end than yours (below 4500 rpms), but obviously with higher boost and E85 you're crushing me anywhere over that. The boost is x10 for scaling purposes (ie 100 = 10 psi, 200 = 20 psi, etc). I'm willing to bet when converted to E85 and when I start pouring on the boost that I will make more power lower in the rpms, but not significantly so (maybe 250-300 rpms sooner), and with the increased backpressure of the .92 housing I'd bet I'll start dropping sooner as well. Good looking dyno!

Then I'm right on target. 93 pump and 17-18 psi was 464 whp for me. (Your results convert to 510-523 whp). I'm probably 500 wheel now at 20 psi (haven't dyno'd). So I am now more motivated than ever to make the move and crank the boost up! Thanks!

Strong results on the 8374! Any clue what it made on 18-19 psi range? Trying to estimate what i should expect as gains when i move to E85 and 30+ psi.

The slightly extended higher definition version (should be anyway)

Still pretty dang hot and extremely humid here (rains every afternoon), but I wanted to take the car out get some logs and make sure my new dead times were working out (wow that was stupid...no clue how I had them so off!). I must have accidentally loaded the old injector dead times and this voltage issue was showing that like crazy. Seems to be pulling pretty well for a street car on pumpgas (93 octane). These are 18 psi runs with some 20 psi spikes on shifting. That 8374 EFR is very well sized to the motor and makes for a very fun car to drive.

Koyo radiator, factory fan and shroud. No touch. I also installed new radiator bushings and pulled them all the way forward on install. Worn bushings could have caused mine to hit. Another option would be to machine some offest bushings pulling the radiator further forward