HarrisRacing

damnit just went to get you guys some logs + videos and popped the axle out hammering around the first turn. Gets violent with the 3 wheel drive. need to change the circlip on the axle.

Also my tach isn't reading correctly. It needs to be adjusted. My redline is solid 8k rpm but tach reads about 8700

6boost IWG divided T4 for EFR. no clue on diameters but I'm sure I could ask Kyle.

Some of my videos if you guys haven't seen them.

Yeah man run that -5 on the track and get us some 1/4 mile results with logs. It's an exceptionally hot and humid summer here this year but when it cools I'll run the car some more.

Not upset at all guys. Just adding clarity to my information for all. When it made 371 whp on 10.5 psi I was actually kind of jaw dropped eager to turn the boost up to pump out 550 whp on pump...but it didn't go up as much as I thought it was going to. I'm still on factory intercooler, still on 3" exhaust and slowly but surely fixing bottlenecks. I think the next dyno trip I'll have 3.5" exhaust ready to go as well as water meth to get my setup really making power. I think on stock bores the stroker isn't doing much especially at lower boost levels but maybe after high lift cams (yes I had the head relieved for larger cams while I was at it) and another 1k rpms this setup will start shining. Still going at it!

Boost is on the graph and is straight off of haltech log. Spikes at 19 psi and drops to 17.5 psi on top end (for most of the pull past 6k). I also have the dyno for 10-10.5 psi and it's 371 whp. I have attached the comparison from first pull of the day to last. This turbo made 100 whp increase going from 10.5 psi to 17.5 psi. I think it would be reasonable to see it hit 500 whp at 20 psi on pumpgas. This turbo is just getting into its efficiency island as well. This is all still on the factory haltech timing basemap. I want to note that my car doesn't make as much power as most but it kinda have a backwards build. 1) stroker with small cams yet huge intake manifold and high flow turbo and only 3" exhaust with internal wastegate. 2) cut squish pads and low comp valves relieved pistons yet still on pumpgas (low boost) and small cams. 3) hey I built it all myself, tuned it all myself, ported the head myself, drove it myself, and on this 17-18 psi the car still ran a respectable 11.70@120 on pumpgas and 255 street tires like I drive it everyday. When I get my fuel issue sorted get ready for a water meth injection setup and another 6-7 psi boost still on pumpgas. This should net me around 550-600 whp and I think the car will be in the 10s on complete street trim. It will still be in strong competition with R35 GTR'S for less money invested and a good bit more "wow" factor over here in the states.

That was old badly configured boost control on the medium wastegate cannister it spools better now.

Clearly the server crash hurt us all...and I'm on tapatalk for the weekend on vacation so surely my threads are different. We will sort it tomorrow. My tps is linked to my boost control output. I think it was the white line that goes to 100% as soon as I press throttle so it's really where throttle input starts. Easy enough to just pop the tps in there but the real idea is the overall power capability vs. Real world pumpgas boostthreshold. Meaning my boost threshold is very livable, car is clearly making decent power, and I've still got tons of room to grow. Trust me in time it will start showing the potential...I'm still new on my setup and solving other issues.

245

Post 2442 has my first dyno on stock haltech timing map. Also only 17 or so psi. 464 rwhp fyi.

Just tell me what you want. I'll do it when I get back from vacation. I was just showing overall boost threshold on the street in 2 gears. And yes just shy of 10 seconds to reach 18 psi from only 2k rpms is still real data that may be useful to some. I think what most of the single EFR supporters are saying is that: 1) A BW 8374 EFR definitely is within the realm of a very driveable street car that is looking to make anywhere 600-800 HP. 2) 8374 will likely beat the very commonly used -5 turbos in spool and response even given their significantly higher max HP capability. I think these people are correct from data i have seen so far and from driving my own car. In all honesty I think a 7670 is a more direct comparison to the -5s and i think it would paint a significantly different picture for you. Remember at only 11 psi my car still dyno'd 375 rwhp. On 17 it did 464 on stock haltech base timing. As soon as I get my fuel problem sorted I'm going back for solid 20-21 psi (yes still on 93 octane pumpgas) and more timing advance to see what it does. Does my car beat the -5s in threshold so far on the street? Please provide data for comparison and we will all know. I am pretty sure at 24 psi the 8374 will easily start to walk away from them. And I'm not taking anything personal at this point. Lots of things I would have done differently on my car so far and I'm still learning, but to lay down fastest time of the day with only 2 runs of the last autox I attended should tell you this turbo is NOT unresponsive.

BC 79mm stroker crank. Stock 86mm bores. Forged pistons stock compression. Squish pads mostly removed. Tomei poncam A's at 0 and 0 cam settings. 6 boost manifold divided T4 internal wastegate 8374 .92 housing hypertune V2 intake manifold and yes 93 octane fuel in the US

Ran some more boost threshold tests: Temp = 91 F, 70% humidity. 1) Third gear from 2k rpms. Graph attached - NOTE that my closed loop boost control is starting to compensate at 3390 rpms (ie starting to give supply pressure to the wastegate). 10 psi @ 3430 rpms 14 psi @ 3712 rpms 16.5 psi @ 3909 rpms 2) 5th gear from 2k rpms. Graph attached. 10 psi @ 3059 rpms 14 psi @ 3200 rpms 16.5 psi @ 3278 rpms 18.1 psi @ 3329 rpms So this goes to show that the EFR will spool soon when loaded for long amounts of time, but that it still has a good bit of inertia with it to get it to respond on extreme low end. As stated previously with my setup, the gear greatly affects threshold. Granted, it's still hyper responsive and the low boost threshold in 5th is nice for passing on the highways because I'm still at those rpms while cruising so there is no need for downshifting.

Warranty issues is why no heat wrap is present. Thought about doing it anyway but it seems to work well enough. Zero hood clearance issues (that was the problem with the RAW). Remember the 9180 is the same size as the 8374...so there's room enough for a 1,000HP turbo on here.

Here are some pictures I took when I was fitting mine up. You'll see where I had cut the AC line from before.

I have 6 boost on 8374 iwg .92 efr with r32 AC on my car right now. I did make a new AC line because I had cut mine previously trying to get it to fit with the RAW brokerage manifold. The dampener in line would have been close to the bottom of the manifold for sure on the stock line. I cut the ends and just had my shop sweat 2' of line in-between the end fittings and covered with heat wrap. Works perfect

Turns out the nismo diff came with a c clip in it already...hadn't noticed. So when I rebuilt my front CV boots I installed a new one on the axle. I guess neither did the job because both were filling the gaps. Pulled one off the shaft and installed and it's good as gold and clipped in tight. Whew! Was worried for a bit! Will work on new alternator wiring tomorrow.

We'll all hell if it ain't my luck. Found a big puddle of fluid on the ground under the car after driving it to work this morning. Turned out to be differential fluid from the front diff. After a quick check looks like either sheared off the CV shaft in the differential or it popped out somehow or perhaps the differential broke. I was feeling a shimmy when making pulls the last couple of times I drove it but couldn't tell if it was just a center diff coming on or not. I haven't launched the car in a while so I'm not sure what did it but the last time I push the gas the car almost went sideways from so much torque from the front left wheel. It's the right front CV shaft.

6 boost works perfect on R32 accessories. Full race needs smaller AC compressor and lines to work on R32 RAW told me they had no plans to change theirs. WAY too high for RB in a GTR. Deck height change to RB30 would only complicate things. I'm running 6 boost and like it a lot. And about my fuel issue. 12.5V will not net me enough fuel supply on my pump. I noticed the issue because haltech caught my fuel pressure differential and shut the car down. It used to be 13.5 or so. Aeromotive tech says a fuel pump can lose up to 40% flow from 13.5V supply down to 12.0V. I belive him. So far I think it's an old or shorted wire. Starts fine and holds voltage at 13.4 or so then within minutes voltage is plummeting as things heat up. New alternator didn't change anything. I'm thinking old crusty wire is adding resistance as it heats up. But yes it's Handy on checking your dead times in the haltech by turning on AC and watching voltage drop and resetting dead times to maintain AFRs. Then you can go all the way to adding a battery charger to go the other way.

Not stock stroke. BC stroker 79mm. 2.75L on brand new N1 block 86mm pistons. My car is apparently not as responsive as most but then again I have cut squish pads and I'm on hypertune V2 90mm (which is just way overkill until you are over 800HP imo). Also I'm on valve relived pistons and i cut the head for high lift cams as well (everything you need to try to max a 9180 later). For now I'm on tomei poncam A's to top all that off. Mine is all setup for top end but I've got the small IWG turbine...kinda backwards in hindsight. Doing it all over I'd go flat tops and leave squish pads for a street motor. Also I would go higher compression ratio. I also want to note I'm on 3" exhaust right now! As soon as I get my low voltage issues solved I'll be back on tuning. I can't keep my voltages solid so it's hurting my injector timing which is throwing my tune totally out of whack. May be time to run all new wiring off of the alternator because since this issue popped up in chasing all kind of fuel issues. And I think the -5 logging carries merit for comparison purposes...if he's matching my current boost threshold (which he actually is very close) and is putting down similar dyno numbers and speeds on the same boost then I think proposing the other data i requested for comparison would greatly help others decide if and when to make the jump. When I sort this voltage (and resultant fuel) issue out I'll move to meth and see if the -5s keep up then around the 24-26 psi mark. Also regarding the V-cam. Every dyno and sales point says it pretty much adds ANOTHER 500-700 rpms on top of everything and will make more power everywhere. I totally believe it. My next motor will be a VCam 3.2-3.4L stroker...no doubt. I might not even swap turbos and just have a disgustingly fast street car. Limit rpms to 8k and probably have a car that traps 130mph on pumpgas.

Looks really nice! I'm absolutely impressed.

Ahh gotcha. Either way a few tests and pull logs will definitely help everyone know where they stand performance-wise globally. 1) A full 4th gear pull from 2k rpms up (will catch full threshold and powerband) on the road (not dyno) 2) A 2nd gear punch from 5k (roll punch response) 3) gear change from 3-4 under boost (transient response) 4) Maybe a punch in 3rd from 5500 then lift at full boost and re-punch just to see the road race or autox response? I may try to get some logs this weekend to check it out.

I'll hook you up 3rd or 4th? Let's set some parameters to the tests. Say full threshold test 2000 rpms up in 4th? Then stabs starting at certain rpms from a roll in certain gears? Then gear changes on boost? We need to establish on the log an amount of time at certain cruise speeds before stabbing.