HarrisRacing

Thanks for that. I was seeing voltage issue in logs and high rpms were netting only 12.5V and low only 12.9-13V Changed alternator Now with headlights, AC on at idle this thing runs only 11.8V at idle still only 12.5V running. I may have some wiring issue somewhere. Need to check that out.

Yep checked. Ignition soft cut (not fuel) so it's probably acting as antilag from cutting ignition on every other cylinder and then sparking the excess fuel next go round. But I'm not pulling any timing (which is huge on antilag)

Maybe it's because it is a soft cut rev limit? I'll check tonight to see if it's cutting fuel and/or ignition on soft cut.

I totally agree. Can't wait to make the move to E85 and get more out of mine. And the Vcam is on the horizon for sure... I want to note that I removed Anti-lag from my Hatlech tune. I have replaced it with a simple rev-limit table that is set as mph vs. throttle position. I have it set to 5200 rpms under 2 mph at 90% and above throttle. Why is this relevant to this "EFR TURBOS" conversation? Because in 2 seconds (yes two) of boucing off the 5200 rpms launching rev limiter alone (with no anti-lag), my EFR 8374 will make 14 psi boost. So yeah...no anti-lag needed to spool my car for launches! It will make full boost if I just let it bounce a few more seconds.

Just tell him I'm in the US and built and tuned my own car. I'm just looking to see what the strokers like for cam timing. No competition or anything just trying to save some time on the next dyno day. PM with the info would be awesome.

I didn't want to mislead you. I'm spiking when shifting fast rolling through the gears only due to my haltech boost table. It's something I need to work on with my tune. But i have a separate fuel supply problem that is due to low voltage from the alternator. I tested my fuel pump and it's not putting out enough volume at the current voltage (only 260 LPH at the current 12.5V it's getting while the engine is running with FPR set at 44 psi). I couldn't test the pump volume at 65 psi (what it would be at 20 psi boost) but it would only be worse from there. I'm at the limit of this pump on 12.5V. As I run the rpms up at 20 psi boost the fuel pressure starts it's slow decline of supply as rpms climb. I'm seeing a 38 psi injector differential now (6 psi loss in fuel pressure) meaning the pump isn't keeping up. The techs asked a lot of questions and asked why I wasn't seeing 13+V at the pump which showed my aging alternator problem. Let's hope I get one that will output 14+V

If single TB plenum just find a location to "jump around" the throttle body. This will be pressurized under boost and of course the leg from the plenum (vacuum side) will be under vacuum so plan your hose accordingly. My Hypertune came with an adapter that actually could have been threaded directly to the manifold on the vacuum side (but I just used some pretty thick silicone hose I had).

Another quick test is to pull logs of injector duty cycles (or time) at known values to see what it is doing when you run the old way with no IAT vs the new way with IAT mapped. At least this could get you back quasi on target running. Nice thing about a wideband are the added protection in the engine protection menu. I set my car so that it will protect the engine (raise fuel % and lower boost) when I'm 12.5 AFR or higher over 15 psi. This will eliminate any potential fuel pump failures from giving me issues there. I'm quite confident it's changing the map somehow.

Do you mind sharing which cams and what the cam gear settings are? I would appreciate it greatly.

25 psi on pumpgas?! This begs the question on my car then... I have seen 22 psi spikes on shifts (3rd to 4th at track) and zero knock there, but I'm so far scared to get out of the 18-19 psi comfort zone. I know every engine is different, but I am now assuming I'm leaving lots of power on the table on 93 octane (USA pumpgas) with the 8374 EFR? Now that I have the high boost actuator I'll try to push the boost up higher, but currently I'm having alternator voltage issues (new one should be here tomorrow) which is hurting my fuel supply (battery voltage is only 12.44V on high rpms).

Does pipe is correct (see #3 below) but I wanted to add two other things: 1) Get a wideband - ASAP. I am running their CANBUS. In all honesty it makes no sense to have spent this much on a Haltech and not have the wideband. It opens SO many more tuning and safety options that you don't have now and I would say this is CRITICAL for any standalone. 2) I also used a AFM wire back to the ecu for one of my sensors and just repinned at the ECU so there is not an issue there unless you crossed some voltage (but it sounds like you didn't because you are at least getting "normal" values). 3) Did the R33 GTST not have an air temp sensor? If not, then surely the ECU was assuming some value for this input in it's calculations of air density (air temp is one of the calculations). Basically they were assuming air temp didn't change I guess? If this is the case and you ADDED a sensor where one didn't previously exist, and you added it as an input (properly) and scaled it (properly) then you will need to retune the car for sure to match the ACTUAL air temp. A final FYI. My air temp sensor is zero mapped up until around 120-130F and down to 50F. Meaning it only changes the tune on fuel % added above or below those values respectively.

Makes sense...I did pedal it on that run. It was my fastest run of the night and 2nd best 60'.

I went to the track this weekend for my first shakedown runs on pumpgas and street tires and was a victim of wheel hop which hurt my launches pretty badly. I was still feeling like the car was significantly faster on the street 0-60 but my brother said I was crazy so I went out and tested again on the street and here are the logs from the Haltech. 0 mph in first to 7460 rpms in 3rd: At the track with antilag at 5,250 rpms= 8.495 sec on [email protected] mph.(0-60 mph is 4.01 sec) On the street no antilag just 5,250 rpms limiter until 2 mph= 8.474 sec (0-60 mph is 3.71 sec) <--also note that I actually shifted SLOWER going into 3rd!) So 11.70 @ 120 on the track is likely quicker on the street in my car. It's strange, without the wheel hop it spins a tiny bit then just ROCKETS out of the hole. For some reason this is just faster in every way.Also the front NISMO LSD is the only NON-stock part in my entire drivetrain downstream of the Super coppermix twin clutch. I will be changing rear subframe bushings because one is oozing goo out of it now. Also the coilovers are old school HKS Hyper D (read EXTREMELY STIFF).

Here is a 3rd gear sweep in my car. Note the TACH is wrong. Redline is at 8k in the haltech so adjust accordingly. Pumpgas and 17 psi boost on the street and 93 octane fuel. Car ran 120 mph in the 1/4 on Friday with this tune.

I guess my point is: with all the parts I have, good compression numbers, stroker motor, .5mm SS valves, ported head, etc I figured the car would be faster at 17-18 psi on this turbo. Perhaps the 3" exhaust, or smaller cams, or removed squish pads are hurting me? Then again it was disgustingly hot and humid outside. So if this is as slow as it goes I am going to be OK with the numbers

This is true. Apparently our cars are slower and make more power but hookup better...half joke half serious. Can't tell you why this setup doesn't put numbers down like others do. I expected it to have more mph than it does now. If you guys have anything else I can try please let me know. I have checked a lot of stuff on this car but when I look at things like the latest motive DVD episode on YouTube where they run the piss out of his stock bottom 26 I see that I'm still hanging in there with pumpgas and street tune. I mean 120 isn't "slow" but not as fast as I expected. Maybe cutting squish pads hurt me?

Yes I did...but I really need to get back to the dyno I've made so many changes. That was older injectors, different fuel setup (actually changed it again today) and then I played with cams for seemingly ever. I'm going to get back and check it again and find some dead spots. But first I am actually going to install a water/meth injection setup so I can play with that on the dyno as well

Outside view of run 2.

Ran the car in the quarter on 17 psi and total street trim (full weight) Not bad at [email protected] IT was extremely humid (100%) and about 90-85 deg F. Not much time between runs since I was late and not many cars there (was supposed to rain...just didn't hit the track).

SETUP: 255 17" Hankook RS3 93 octane pumpgas (US = to RON98) 2.75L BC stroker Ported head Tomei poncam A SS valves Hypertune V2 BW 8374EFR IWG .92 divided 6 boost divided manifold Nismo front LSD stock rear. 3176 lbs without me in it NEW DATA: 93 octane (US) pumpgas (contains up to 10% ethanol) 60' = 1.772 330 = 4.837 1/8 mile = 7.363 @ 99.14 1/4 mile = 11.288 @ 126.26 OLDER DATA: 19 psi (20/sept/2016 Run 2 temp 72 degF 1.695 60' [email protected] 1/8 mile 11.19@ 121.7 1/4 mile

Finally got a chance to try this. 1) checked base timing. It was off by 1 degree maybe. Just wanted to remove this as a potential issue. 2) put cams back to 0 and 0 (my car just likes this better for some reason) and reset base timing again. 3) reloaded the factory haltech timing basemap (well my modified higher resolution version). 4) got the fuel right on boost (11.8:1) car definitely spooled earlier (3rd gear full boost at 3700 rpms now) but also lost a bit of bottom and top end from lower timing (conservative 15.8 deg at 17-18 psi). 5) left all the transitional timing alone in the 2 psi to 15 psi zones (from 2500-3750) but was able to raise timing from 16 psi up by 2 degrees before losing power on top end (wasn't knocking...just lost acceleration in spots). For example at 3 deg advanced from base (18.8 deg total timing) the car was actually a tenth of a second slower accelerating from 5000-7900 rpms...so I left these zones at 2 deg advanced which is about 18 deg total timing advance on top end at 17-18 psi. 6) bumped timing on bottom and midrange rpms in the 0-3 psi range to make the car more peppy to drive around at part throttle. So this is really driving well and actually you barely can feel the reduced timing in the transition area helping spool. Once I nose over this to max boost the car runs and feels great! So yes it was great advice. Next step water injection and adding 5 deg more timing while this is going.

The reamers are different sizes FYI. My local machine shop that has built all of my other heads didn't want to mess with this since they would have charged me for the reamers needed to get them done. I would NOT hone them unless you are 100% sure you are true with the valve seat...hence the reamer to make sure to get the valve guide straight after installation. Then of course machining seats to match valves. It all can be done no problem, and it's not exactly rocket science, but I sure wanted my valves straight in my head and my machine shop agreed when I told them the motor might spin 9,500 rpms one day!

Sent my head to RAW Brokerage...right there near you. They have a machinist. Make sure you get ALL of the things you want done to your head in writing first. They did good work, but we did have a miscommunication on what I wanted them to do overall. It did take quite a bit of time as well.

^^^ 100% correct. I had a machine shop install them and ream them to specs. But you are definitely doing the right thing by dumping the stock ones! 2 of mine were chipped off when I tore my engine down! Good luck. It's not cheap, but worth the upgrade.