chicane

Hrmm whats the easiest way to get access to the clutch fork to lubricate it? Cheers

I've wondered what that cable under the seat was for and the pretentioners sound about right.. Found this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/seatbelt4.htm Why would the ones installed @ compliance not have this sort of pretentioner? Cheers

Hi All, Got this annoying problem with my R33 - when I push the cluch pedal in it makes a squeak noise - you can hear it quite loudly outside the car. Any tips on fixing this? It sounds like its coming from the engine bay rather than in the cabin. Tnx! chicane

they are pretty strong in the skylines unlike some other cars

Make sure u get one right for an NA (non turbo) car otherwise it will drone!

any spares in any colour? :}

Yep agreed.. I think the key is a good balance between allowing the braid to have plain copper so it allows flex (and doesn't break), and enough plastic in there so the button remains at the right height and doesn't sag. Cheers chicane

Fixed up the button tonight (took a bit of time!) however I did it, and now its as good as new. Here is the tutorial solution on how to fix a busted button! I used some soldering braid Size #4, its about 3mm wide. Just used a normal soldering iron and wiped the tip clean (no problems) with a wet cloth afterwards. Hope this helps someone else! cheers chicane

Thats a good idea Bozz! Thanks for that, ill give that a try this weekend. An idea i had so i dont stuff up my iron (i only have 1) is to wrap the tip in aluminium foil.

Hi All, So a button on the the Climate Control in my R33 has broken (AUTO).. and now looks like this.. So i decided to take it out of the car and have a go at opening it, which is done by levering up the tabs as indicated by the green arrows (both sides): Now the problem here is the button was floating around pretty much, as the two broken hinges which hold the button in place have broken - The off button shows how it should be. The button is actually connected only at the top 2 points, and when the button is pushed in the 'tactile feel' of the button is from the white switch underneath. (The broken button) Now what needs to be done is somehow for the button to be re attached (using the button to the left as a guide) with some form of bridge where the orange arrows are. Previously, I have put a dob of Araldite on the top of the white switch directly so it held it in place, but that wasnt strong enough and didn't last too long. On the weekend I'm going to try and fix it properly.. anyone tried fixing it before? I'll post back with how i go

Does your button look like my one in the pic? <EDIT: I have posted a thread in Modifications & Maintenance > General Maintenance with pics of this problem, and eventually how to fix it..>

The oil drains to the sump anyway.. so id suggest just do it as normal.

ATTN: Original Poster, have you filled up your tank yet (so the bowser clicks) and then noted the status of the fuel meter?

I'm doing the 100km Century from Sorrento to Melbourne.. Thanks for the tips Geoff!!

sweet mate thought it was along those lines.. cheers

got the brace, well made and looks good whats the deal with fitting it? obviously remove and refit the suspension tower bolts with the brace in between them, whats the best way to get it nice and tight?

What style of muffler/model magnaflow is it? How much you pay for it?

hey mufro, what muffler you got on your R33 GTS? cheers chicane

anybody else care to reply to this thread and mention anything I should look out for when getting a new muffler on my R33? Cheers, chicane ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ An internet forum is only as good as the quality which is contributed..

anyone received their brace yet??

Partsco have Coby ones (popular it seems) bout $300 posted from NZ.. so around that figure!

nice ascii work [d4rks1d3] hehe.. check http://auto.howstuffworks.com/muffler3.htm ppl.. some go around in the fashion like d4rk mentioned, some go thru a more 'inline' series of sound absortion material/chambers etc, but the gist of it is the same. I spoke to an exhaust shop (perf exhaust in ringood) about a muffler today. I told him how I want to go to a quieter (ive got a noisy rev-flow muffler on there now, and 3" pipe from bends to the muffler) one and he said a canon style (round) won't be the ideal one. He recommended an oval style one. Also quoted about 380 for a maganaflow oval one, but im not thinking only maganflow, but any good brand (post if you can recommend) which will quiet it down a bit, but not strangle it (and have _some_ noise when on the throttle). Cheers chicane

no prob!

A turbo timer just makes your car run for a preset period after you take out the keys, so the turbo has time to cool down a bit before it turns off. Obviously it works on ALL vehicles. NA included, if one desired.

HEY PPL Well I don't know what this talk of not being able to contact them or whatever - I've corresponded with them via email and they are indeed around and trading. I'm interested in a set of the extractors..