mddR33

Hey mate, Keen on the fuel rail, would you post up to Ipswich? Also i assume it is to fit Rb26? Cheers

Hey mate thanks for the reply, yep it will definitely plug in just not sure if it will read the fault. I am in Ipswich, can you text me on 0401293652 to sort out some details? Cheers

Hey mate where are you located? Any idea if consult can diagnose and/or clear a flashing airbag light? (Had wheel changed stock for stock with original module, been flashing ever since) Car is running a Haltech ECU but hoping consult could still read the separate SRS system...

Hi guys, Recently had my R33 GTR at the mechanic, for fitting the (I had hoped) last few mods to my car. Upon pick up, they have told me that they have noticed a crack in the engine block (near the turbo oil feed, between cylinders 3 and 4) that is allowing coolant to seap out. They told me that it was enough to form a small puddle on the floor, though I have now had the car back in my garage for 24hrs and the floor is clean. Anyway, unfortunately I guess this means I am probably up for another $10k or so to get the engine out and have an N1 block fitted (Im not a mechanic so can't do it myself), and hopefully forged internals as well. Super bummed, as I had planned to just enjoy the car now, as I've already thrown about 25k at it in parts and labour. A few questions: 1. Are there any common causes for a cracked block? Mechanic said it is common on RB26's, due to some twisting because of front end torque?) I could barely find any info on google relating to cracked RB26 blocks. 2. How likely is it that this crack will get bigger quickly? (Potentially a "how long is a piece of string question", but if anyone has had any experience before?) 3. Any suggestions for the build of the bottom end? Do's or don'ts? Not looking for massive power (currently 300awkw with -7 turbos) but any suggestions based on past experience would be great. I'm not ruling out buying a pre-built engine if it was close to my budget, then just re-fitting any parts needed from my existing engine. Cheers!

Clutch no longer available. Still available: front pipe, turbs/dumps, cams and gears, baffle, ECU, oil pump, water pump, sparkers, belts and brake hose

Sorry mate no just changed parts on the existing motor.

Rotors, mounts, fuel reg, gaskets, fuel pump,injectors, cat converter, oem coils, superspark coils and oil filter no longer available

Rotors, mounts and fuel reg no longer available.

Consider them held, when would you be able to get them? Just so I know how long to hold onto them for before re-listing if you forget or go with another option - no worries to hold for a few weeks but don't want them sitting around for months ☺. Cheers

Sorry Bawgy, would love to help out but just don't have the time to organise packing and posting. Got any friends or family up here that could pick them up and send them down to you? They've done around 8000km under my ownership and not sure how much beforehand, but no warps or cracks etc?

Hey guys, I have just completed a stage of my R33 build, so have some gear laying around to go to a new home, and hopefully help some fellow Skyline enthusiasts out. The parts are off a '95 S1 R33 GTR, with 129000kms (pretty sure genuine). OEM front pipe - free OEM turbos and dump pipes - $150 Various unused gaskets, including brand new Nissan head gasket - $30 OEM sump baffle - free ECU - $30 OEM engine and gearbox mounts (look in pretty good cond') - free OEM camshafts and cam gears - free OEM fuel pump - $20 OEM oil pump - $20 OEM water pump - free 6 x NGK iridium spark plugs (BCPR7EIX), 4500kms/ 6 months old - $20 OEM fuel pressure regulator - free OEM injectors (440cc) - free Ancillary belts (good cond', one is Gates), idler and tensioner - free NPC clutch - unknown age, not slipping before removed - free Front and rear slotted disc brakes - unknown age/life left (seemed OK before removed) - free Catco catalytic converter - free 6 x Superspark coil packs - unknown age, no issues/missing before removed - $30 6 x OEM coil packs - 4500km/6 months old, no issues/missing before removed - $100 Nissan front L/H brake hose, brand new - $40 Brand new Nissan oil filter (small type suit RB26) - free Pick up only please - I am located in Ipswich, QLD. If you are interested or have any questions, send me a text on 040one two93 6five2. Cheers!

Thanks for the replies guys. For replacement of the module, as far as I know the module in the S1 R33s are in the wheel itself, which is the reason for it being so large (changed in the S2s onwards). Not ruling out changing it if it is the problem, but would love to get a scan on it first to confirm if that was the issue. To be honest I wouldn't rule out a drive to Sydney to scan/fix it as it is incredibly annoying!! The worst part is that apparently it is very common for the light to flash after the battery is disconnected or flat. From what I have read this is normally fixed with by doing the door switch reset procedure but I can't even get it to go into diagnostic mode by following the steps... Hoping that someone local might be able to help. (Thanks for the offer johnnilicte, like I said wouldn't rule out the drive at the moment ha ha). If I was to get an aftermarket ecu (looking at doing some mods done the track anyway) does anyone know if it could be scanned using the scan tool for the aftermarket ecu? I have however read the the aibags operate independently of the ecu, which is why an ecu reset wouldn't fix it...

Still unable to fix the flashing airbag light problem, any chance anyone has a scan tool or knows a work shop that can plug in to read/clear the fault? Any where in the Gold Coast, Brisbane, Ipswich or Sunshine Coast areas. If you have a scan tool and was willing to check it obviously I would come to you and pay you for your time.

Hi 533 RYC, Thanks for your reply. In answer to your questions: I paid a shop to do it, so unfortunately am not sure how it was done. The same airbag that was on the original wheel (no light before) was put back on. The airbag on the replacement wheel had the module removed so couldn't be used. As I didn't do the work, I'm not sure if care was taken with the clock spring coil. Is there any way of checking if it had been turned without taking the wheel off again? From what I have read, it is VERY common on skylines for the airbag light to flash after the battery is disconnected and/or the steering wheel removed. Apparently mostly fixable by doing that door switch re-set, however it would seem either not in my case, or I'm doing the reset incorrectly. I have also read that, if there is an actual issue, the light will flash in different patterns in order to enable you to "read" the problem code, or just stay on. I cant find anywhere that details what the patterns are or mean, but mine is just consistent shortish flashes, no change. Is there a way to check if it is a resistance issue?

Hi guys, Big fan of the site, first time posting on the forum, hope I'm in the right spot. I recently purchased an R33 GTR S1 (from an SAU member) and last week had the steering wheel replaced with another stock wheel, as the old one was very worn. I am now experiencing the dreaded flashing air bag light... I have spent many afternoons researching the door switch re-set tricks, and have tried each instruction I could find a dozen times, but the light just keeps flashing. (Consistent short flashes) I even got so desperate that I called Nissan willing to hand over some money to check/clear the fault, but was promptly told that, being an import, they won't even touch it.(?) Has anyone experienced this with an R33 GTR and, if so, what worked to fix it? From what I have read, the door switch re-set has worked for many others but I couldn't find any that specifically referenced R33 GTR - most of the positive results I could find online were for R33 Gtst or R34 Gtt. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Or, if anyone is in the Brisbane/Ipswich area (I am in Springfield Lakes) and wants to have a crack at it, I would be more than happy to pay you the $75 I would have paid Nissan if you can clear it. (Without removing the bulb Cheers!