PHATGTR

From what I can tell it doesn't seem to matter which one has stronger internals, as the power you're planning on making is going to require a full rebuild of either anyway.

So just to answer a question that hasn't yet been answered....'How much would it cost to rebuild the engine with standard internals including remove and refit?

That depends what duration you go for and whether your looking at top end power or more mid range.

I think you'll find you're wrong! I would hardly call push rod technology advanced :confused:

I disagree. The Porsche is much more tractable than the skyline and the chassis, brakes and suspension are second to none. I have a mate with a 996(911) Porsche. I had at the time a Supra with 280kw@wheels(running 285 tread) which is much quicker and handles better than a GTSt. I found his car so much easier to drive fast because the traction and handling were amazing.

With those mods the car and the standard turbo will easily withstand 1bar(about 15psi) of boost

Good stuff. There is nothing worse than an engine killing lean out!

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I was under the impression that it wasn't really as easy as putting on a high flowed turbo to a standard engine and then running 10's. Don't you still need engine management, bigger fuel system etc...?

All 180sx r turbo in australia its a 1991 Red top turbo S13 with a replaced motor that was outa a 1994 180 180SX Type S came out in 1996 and was SR20DE non turbo. So is it a redtop out of a '94' or a blacktop? The only reason I ask is that if it's a redtop then someone is telling you porky pies because all red top SR's were 91-93 and the black tops were from 94 through to the final Type X.

^^^ He He

High flowed turbos will comfortably run about 1.3 bar

No worries.

1. No standard airbox is fine. 2. Hole in the wheel arch??? 3. It's a straight bolt on and only very minor modifications are needed to fit it. 4. All depends on the size of your current battery as they come from Jap land with heaps of different styles and sizes. 5. Your radiator will still get ample air flow. 6. Flow much better than the standard cooler. 7. If the only mod you have/will have is a cooler and say exhaust, about 12 psi would be ample. If you would like to run more boost, it is recommended that you upgrade your fuel system and either remap your standard ECU or get some form of aftermarket ECU.

Put it on the dyno to check your Air-Fuel Ratios to make sure there isn't a problem with the pump. I don't think the noise is your major concern,. Whether or not the pump is doing it's job properly is much more important.

If it had been detonating that badly for 6 months, forgies or no forgies, the pistons would have fried by now! I suspect it is another issue, but just take it easy until you can get it to Mazfix.

Spend the $50 and get it on the dyno!

My understanding was that forgies were renowned for increasing the knock level on Power FC's? I have had a Power FC in 2 different cars now and I think that if your car was actually pinging as hard as everybody thinks it is, the knock reading would be much higher than 40. How recent was the rebuild, because sometimes things just aren't fastened or tightened properly. Is there a chance it could be something as simple as a heat sheild? :confused:

Do you have an FC?

This might sound strange but in my 180 it was really loud when it was hot or if I had the aircon on for some reason?

Even if that is the case, it still doesn't explain why he's only making 210@wheels on 1.1 bar???

Just a quick one: You say it's an SR20DET conversion, but a 92 180SX comes standard with an SR20DET??

Does it continue to make the noise for a period of time after start up or is it only when it cranks over?

Our best pump fuel is 98 octane, which from what i've been told is less than your low grade fuel?

Don't bother upgrading the cooler on a GTR if your aiming for less than 250kw@wheels and the mods that you've suggested will only get you there if you run about 1.1 bar of boost

Fair enough! That's why I said if he's not planning on increasing power then don't bother. But i suppose you don't want your standard head gasket splitting when you do upgrade