Hotwire

I appreciate what you're saying 4door sleeper about increasing low down torque with the autos, and no doubt in 1/4 mile can be made just a quick/quicker. However spirited hills is what I enjoy most, and nothing beats the fun of a manual. Im not going for record HP, but I can promise it won't remain standard

Well, I think a factory manual is going to have to be the way then

Do you mean at the wheels? Cos I thought that would be obvious due to more loss through the driveline. Quoted figures for output at the flywheel are the same though (I Thought)

So if 4 doors are supposed to have same engine, trans, diff etc. how come the times are roughly 1 sec slower? would it be likely that time is in a auto then? If buying an auto and do manual conversion, is a new ECU required, ie. is the trans control in the ECU or is this a separate module? The reason Im wondering is because in one of my last cars (EF Fairmont) to go Manual, a manual ECU was a must as the ECU controlled the trans too, and putting in manual and tricking ECU to thinking it was in neutral would cause all sorts of loaded fuelling problems etc.

Cheers for the help people. 4door sleeper, what mods have been done to your 4door for a 13.0 1/4? cos that is the time that I was aiming for from a 4 door, wanted 13 flat

Hey all, I’m currently looking at importing a S1 or S2 R33 4 door 5sp GTS25T Type M, and am looking for some information. I have been searching for specs etc. on the vehicles, but am not having much luck. I have tried searching the forums, but could not find what I was after either. Now I’d definitely be looking for a 5sp, and the questions I have are: 1. Is the box the same for the 4 door as the 2 door? 2. Is the diff gearing is in the sedan different to the coupe, as I have seen 1/4 times quoted about 1 sec slower, yet it only weighs 20kg more? 3. Do they come with the same 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes as the coupe? 4. How much have people paid for their 4 doors from japan? Thanks for the help :wavey:

What rotors and pads had you just put in? if they are slotted rotors may be interested thanks.

I'm in Adelaide, southern suburbs. I currently have a '31 as a daily driver, but soon will be getting work/lease vehicle. When I do, will be selling '31 and wife's pulsar (as she will drive lease car), and upgrading to a '32. From the photo's yours seems like a nice clean car, and I would like a 25 inside . Just need to wait for approval of lease car etc. then sell the '31. So will be around 3 months at least before I look to buy.

Has the car had a respray at all? How many kms has the chassi done? Would the 5sp be the same one behind the RB30 (if so what box is it?)? With a low km RB25 and RB25 5sp box, I would probably pay 15k. I'll be looking to buy in around 3 months time

Cima is powerd by a single turbo VG30 I beleive.. same as turbo Z31 300ZX's

Hey guys, have a few things I want to clear out as im getting my diff rebuilt which is costing me a bit more than I thought. Items are as follows: Item: RB30E AFM Location: Adelaide, SA Item Condition: Good Reason for Selling: Funds for LSD rebuild Price and Payment Conditions: $30 FIRM on pickup. Postage at cost. Extra Info: Bought for use on my R31, but was not needed as not problem. Want back what I paid for it. Contact Details: PM meAFM Item: R31 Series 3 LHS headlight Location: Adelaide, SA Item Condition: Good Reason for Selling: Funds for LSD rebuild Price and Payment Conditions: $80 on pickup. Postage at cost. Extra Info: Was given this with my new car, but want to sell to help fund the diff. Contact Details: PM meAFM Item: 12" Pioneer TS-W303C sub and Sentrek SDA-232 Amp Location: Adelaide, SA Item Condition: Excellent Reason for Selling: Funds for LSD rebuild Price and Payment Conditions: $350 on pickup. Postage at cost. Extra Info: Link to Sub Specs: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/prod...DetailComponent Amp is Sentrek SDA 232 320W 2/1 Channel amp with Mosfett transistors, adjustable x-over and gain. RCA and high level inputs. Bought this amp off installer who used to work for Cartronics. Is not well known brand but powers sub beutifully with NO clipping. Contact Details: PM me Cheers Lee

Hey guys, have a few things I want to clear out as im getting my diff rebuilt which is costing me a bit more than I thought. Items are as follows: Item: 12" Pioneer TS-W303C sub and Sentrek SDA-232 Amp Location: Adelaide, SA Item Condition: Excellent Reason for Selling: Funds for LSD rebuild Price and Payment Conditions: $350 on pickup. Postage at cost. Extra Info: Link to Sub Specs: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/prod...DetailComponent Amp is Sentrek SDA 232 320W 2/1 Channel amp with Mosfett transistors, adjustable x-over and gain. RCA and high level inputs. Bought this amp off installer who used to work for Cartronics. Is not well known brand but powers sub beutifully with NO clipping. Contact Details: PM me Cheers Lee

Just agian, how many kms, and who has done the servicing? Did you put on the S15 wheels or did you buy it like that? Thanks

Can we get some more detials: Auto/Man Kms cat back exhaust? who has done servicing? any other pics? side shots interior etc. Thanks

Well after reading this thread, im fairly convinced this is the way to go, but im interested in cost, as I couldn’t see it anywhere. This is my guess at costs, can someone tell me if I’m on the mark? $70 .* K&N panel filter inside stock airbox $700* 3inch FGK cat-back exhaust (very quiet and probably more restrictive than some exhausts) $200* 3 inch stainless dump pipe off the turbo 'wrapped' with DEI thermal tape to the cat. This dump does not have a sepparate wastegate screamer or feed pipe. $150* Diff Cradle kit or 'pineapples' , the Whiteline kit No. KCA349. $600* Ogura Lightwieght flywheel 4.8kgs. $500* Ceramic puck sprung clutch and stock pressure plate $20 .* Wrapped turbo to intercooler pipe (DEI thermal tape). Free * Removed panel behind stock intercooler. Free * Timing set around 20+degrees advance. Free * disable the carbon canister fume feeds to the intake. $100* Turbo smart bleed valve (cheap one) set to 10psi boost On Car* Simex 205/50 16 inch rear tyres. let them down to 19psi. $30 .* NGK coppers ...6ES gapped to 0.7mm $2370 Total Cost??? Now im guessing most of those would be NOT fitted, and not having time/tools to do it, I would guess around $200 for clutch fitting, $50 for pinapples and $150 for exhaust, bringing total to approx $2800? Thanks Lee

I just found that thread on the 13.4 how to. Very intersting stuff I would have thought more mods would be required. That makes me happy Thanks for the help

Hi all, Im looking at getting an 5sp R33 GTS-T soon, and am wondering what sort of mods will be required to get into a mid 13sec 1/4. By looking at the time slip registry, it would seem that around the 200-250 rwhp is required (150~185rwkw). What sort of mods are required to produce this? Are the mods such as full exhaust from turbo back, FMIC and boost control (at what psi??) enough to get these times? The reason I ask is the car will be a daily driver, but I want it quick enough to have some fun on the weekends too. The car simply wont be a straight line car either, the suspension will be set up for hills handling (low springs and new shocks, strut brace), so will this affect times too much? Thanks for your help. Lee

Spoke to the owner, chasing $8,500 with damage now fixed.

What sort of price range is he looking at?

hrmmm, well after reading that story, i might just be looking locally, rather than importing. seems a little dodgy to me the whole importing thing. Can't say i would like to buy a car having never driven it. Even if its cheaper, still doesnt seem worth the worry and hassle

Thanks for the info Bl4cK32. You say about which area of japan the car comes from which makes good sense, but what are some of the areas that cars are prone for rust from in Japan? if you could give me some names would be good. I presume its costal areas that are the biggest problem, but then again, every australian city is on the coast, so one would presume cars here are a problem?!? Just one other question i have, is about the difference in performance from the auto to the manual. The cars have 160kw, and only 260Nm of torque. I currently have an EF Falcon which has same kw, but torque is 100Nm higher. I know the skylines are a lighter car, but surely the lack of torque would have to make a difference?!? With basic mods such as new cold air feed to factory air box, 3" cat back exhaust, what sort of rwkw would i be looking at? Thanks for the answers to all my questions Lee

Hi all, Im new to these forums, as i'm currently interested in gettin an R32 4 door GTS-t through the 15 year old import scheme. I have been looking around for a while now, and Yahoo Motorsport here in adelaide seems to have some pretty cheap cars. My question is has anyone from here imported through him, or bought a car from him? I have spoken quickly to him on the phone and he seemed a little short of time for a prospective customer, but i can't ignore the prices of the cars he imports. For example i was hoping to get a 4 door GTS-t with around 100,000k's for about $8-9k complied. Now most importers are charging that before compliance, whereas Yahoo are anywhere from 5-7k uncomplied (plus 1k for compliance). What are peoples opinions? Thanks Lee