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thechief

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Everything posted by thechief

  1. If you can't afford to run a gtr on pulp you can't afford a gtr
  2. If you have no clue on the condition of an r32 gtr engine why would you know anything about the condition of an r33 gtst donk? IMHO if you're after looks then its simply personal taste. If performance is your ticket then a gtr for the same $ may be older but there is no comparison between the vehicles. An r32 gtr is the real deal, a gtst is simply the shopping trolley version sharing very little mechanically. Look at the price of these cars when new and its quite clear where the value now lies.
  3. thought the following comments were interesting, remember this is the old code 45 from Melbourne, was on the market for ages before the right buyer was found. no idea mate, i bought the car with no idea what engine work it had done, but ive been killing it for the last 18months, and seems to be holding, it has really loud piston slap when its cold but after i warms up it goes away, i was told thats a tell tale sign it has forgies, but im not sure, so ill race it till it dies, then rebuild from scratch. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
  4. hmmm. I had purple nismo's and they were 550's
  5. The 5 speed getrag in the 32/33 gtr is stronger than the 6 speed in the 34gtr. The best of the bunch is the 33 series 3 due to the larger syncros & hubs. If you're running a 34 its not just a case of throwing in the 32/33 box as the diff ratios are different. I've heard of a few trust dog boxes destroyed at around 500rwkw but not OS Giken gear sets at this power level, bonus is they are still a heli cut gear set so street driving is more pleasurable.
  6. I've got an hks one kicking around. Pm me if its of interest.
  7. these yanack guys out to produce the ugliest cars in the world or what? Thats a disgrace what they have done to that car, hows the riveted on guard extensions...eeeekkkk.
  8. I've got a set of teins to suit gtr. I'm willing to let go of the whole set for $600.
  9. I've got a crossmember mount to suit R33. Give me a pm if you're still chasing one.
  10. I've got a crossmember mount to suit R33. Give me a pm if you're interested.
  11. doubt you'll get another 44kw with .4 bar more boost. the first few kw are the cheapest / easiest then you start hitting the old rule of diminishing returns.
  12. The rb26 is fitted with steel wheeled turbos on all r34 models.
  13. silver gts-t, its unusual that the clutch on your compressor will engage if you have no gas in the system as there is a pressure switch to combat this. Ask yourself, if you have no gas how did it escape? Usually its due to an o ring failure. If the system hasn't had gas for sometime then the problem is multiplied as a lubricant is added with the gas to keep the o rings moist etc. Plenty of places will be happy to gas the system for you but ensure they use a "squeeler" afterwards to detect if any gas is escaping under load, otherwise you'll be visiting them quite regularly for the $150 privilege.
  14. Usually there is a drain near the bottom. If not just remove and empty the contents.
  15. Nismo afm's are the best option. They are a direct replacement for standard rb26 afm's, no need to expand inlet piping or modify loom.
  16. r34n1 actuators are adjustable and do not have any markings. They are good for 1 - 1.4 bar and will fit the 2530's..
  17. I wouldn't be starting the engine with only 2 litres of oil in the sump.
  18. SK as usual is on the money, the SS's are 1mm smaller in the compressor wheel so hit earlier, but for greater average power you can't go past 2530's.
  19. Been there, they are not the same. N1's are a homologation turbo so they could use the larger housing. Check compressor trim.
  20. Sounds like excessive blowby pressurising the sump. A dry comp test will not always show ringland damage in its initial stages, I'm with fats, but rather than retaining the dipstick with a spring run both breathers to atmosphere to relieve all pressure, start saving some $ and pull her when she really starts breathing.
  21. For an extra $68 i'd be going with an Australian based insurer, even if it is AAMI, not one situated on an island off the UK.
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