Lunatic Dancer

Forgot...you 100% MUST change the pivot ball nut to a forged one ie.nismo etc... because of the extra clamping force... not worth pulling everything off because of a small nut inside snapped...

well...either one hooks up like nothing.... just awesome grip..... orc does make a rattling sound when clutched in...since two plates they will rattle around when the pressure plate is off them... I reckon it sounds tough ahah There are some brands that has lil springs between the plates to stock this sound... forgot which one...mayb cusco or OS... Im pretty sure orc does make a kit but their manual has nissan part no.'s and also has recommendations on which to use.... To make the most of multiplate clutches at least change the clutch line to a stainless braided one.....and even better change the slave cylinder too... apparently I've heard that the nismo slave is identical to the Z32 standard one...

Another thumbs up for ORC 709D just remember that you will need to change your sleeve bearing and carrier if you are going twin..

hmmm....doesnt sound right. do you know where the defi sender is installed? might have a faulty one... oil pressure gauge can tell you alot about your engine... if there is a leak, if its on its last legs, time to change the oil... its a good idea to have a proper gauge like the defi ones... wouldnt trust the factory same as the water temp..

The Control Unit 1/2 is exactly that only comes with extension cable. All the gauges comes with holder, stand and sensor required. What sort of oil pressure reading are you getting?

hehe...yeh i've got the same problem.....always a wet patch on my floor mat under clutch pedal...and refillin the clutch master cylinder every couple of weeks..... anyways...like dabigbolf said....i went and got a rebuild kit from nissan... only cost me $40.. kit contains complete piston, return spring, piston stop ring, o-ring and the boot - all brand new.... if you going this way best idea is to give the cylinder a nice honing to insure the seal beds in smoothly.. $250 is a bit steep....so $40 and a lil diy is ALOT lighter on the wallet......

also....after installing uprated swaybars, do you usually have to get a wheel alignment?

hmmmmm...its been a while since i installed them on my 180... with the bolts......i just did them so they are tight in conjunction with the top nut... so the bushes are snug and dont move on the lower control arm... if u know what i mean...just make sure that BOTH sides (of bar) are the same length overall.. where bolts, bushes, nuts are ...needs to be identical... the stiffness...looks like its on the 'soft' setting....bolt holes - further into bar is stiffer.. so no.1 = stiffer after installing them...i could definitely feel an improvement...not as much as i thought though, but i already had damn stiff coil-overs...so if u are running standard shocks etc.. you will be happy...

sk....i do get what you mean... if an educated theif really wants your car then they will take it regardless..... and having a tt will make it that much easier..... having a tt is indeed convenient but like most things there are its drawbacks.. ah well..

sk - ur right but nearly all of the current TT's has the handbrake and speed sensors as backup... shuts off when handbrake goes down, or car moves away with handbrake on (while counting down) also its quite easy to connect the alarm so that it can arm while tt is counting down... heiress - you just have to lengthen the wires, if you aren't good with the soldering iron buy a few packets of them wire joiners that you just crimp onto.

hey, does the sard exh.temp come with the sensor?

why does it only come with 3 lines? its meant to have 4... and unless its got an inbuilt thermostat in the remote filter sandwich plate..you gotta think about that too...

can you pm me the pics of the gtr rims? if u were in melb i'd pick them up :|

still for sale!

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got a blitz supersound bov modified trumpet for plumbback comes with wire reinforced tubing as seen on pics..and mounted on pipe direct fit for s13 series sr20det's.. can be plumbback or atmo. $200 Brand new KAZAMA tension rods anodized red, fully adjustable with pillowball mounts, comes with installation bolts. 1 set for s13 and 1 set for s14/s15.. straight from japan.. $350 each set *prices are final... pics here http://members.optusnet.com.au/koguchipowe...r/New%20Folder/

hey, whats the offset? and whereabouts in melb?

Bumpty...

thanks Sydneykid for clearing some up.... so, rattle is normal...even though its so loud normal ppl thinks ur car is stuffed pivot ball hasnt broken - i've whitnessed my other bros gtst when that happened... Emre - yep its a secondhand orc twinplate... very new though 3.9mm plates... i have tried bleeding it again.....this time taking out the dampener system as well like my 180.....to bleed the slave cylinder it needs to be pushing against something right? ie. clutch fork > pressure plate.....i found that it wasnt going anywhere until i physically pushed the fork against the S.cylinder then it started to pick up... i dont think anything is broken......at the start i thought that i might have machined a bit too much off the carrier too but why would it work fine during the 500ks? which leads me to believe that somehow somethings moved, but how? when bleeding i tried putting something between the fork and the S.cylinder tip and it felt much better (pedal) but didnt wanna try starting car on the stands.... i will probably remove the dust boot and take a look inside..

Sydneykid... i need some input on this...i installed an orc twin plate on my bro's s14...straight from the start when you clutch in there is a real loud continues rattle...i didnt think much of this and thought it was just caues its a multiplate clutch, am i right? big problem is...it wont go into gear now.. after the install it was fine, hard to get into first and reverse...then it loosened up after about 500k's and now it wont go into gear... engine off no probs but no luck when on..what could be causing this? i've noticed that the 'rattling' when clutched in is not as noisy as before too.. im thinking somehow the fork as shifted on the bearing holder or something... final question is when you guys installed your multiplate clutches did you need to machine the bearing holder so that the bearing sits further back from that of the factory position? to compensate for the extra width of the new clutch?

ferni...which twin plate was it? does it make any noises when u just clutch in? anyone else installed a twinplate? sydney kid?

not an rb26 but i know that the sr20's are around the 150psi mark... i know that if it is low and a bit of oil raises it its the piston rings, what would cause a higher compression reading? also i believe you are meant to crank the engine till the reading on gauge stabalizes?

good info here... i need some input on this...i installed an orc twin plate on my bro's s14...straight from the start when you clutch in there is a real loud continues rattle...i didnt think much of this and thought it was just caues its a multiplate clutch, am i right? big problem is...it wont go into gear now.. after the install it was fine, hard to get into first and reverse...then it loosened up after about 500k's and now it wont go into gear... engine off no probs but no luck when on..what could be causing this? i've noticed that the 'rattling' when clutched in is not as noisy as before too.. im thinking somehow the fork as shifted on the bearing holder or something... final question is when you guys installed your multiplate clutches did you need to machine the bearing holder so that the bearing sits further back from that of the factory position? to compensate for the extra width of the new clutch? any help would be GREATLY appreciated...

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