daneprostamobrown

You should have abs, so go the abs manifold

Yea I back Ben’s call. Bad idea and no engineer will even bother

i would suggest afew things for reliability. get a crank collar fitted and billet pump gears. very cheap insurance and may as well be done while its out. these stock sintered gears break not just on limiter, but randomly too. nitto head drain. once again cheap as and great for oil control. forged rods of whatever brand with arp studs. not only stronger but lighter so engine will accelerate faster due to lower inertia. balance with crank and stock pistons if arp main studs you will have to get the tunnel measured and probably honed to get it round again. new genuine balancer and arp balancer bolt if the balancer is old as with lots of km's. brand new tensioner and idler bolt and stud and new bearings spend money on a good ecu with oil, fuel and coolant pressure and temerature sensors for engine protection. you can flog the living shit out of an engine with all that. big turbo and supporting mods is just optional for the future at that point.

sorry to bump this, but did you have these original photos? I am about to put a taarks block adapter, grex thermo filter relocation in my RS4S stagea in the void infront of the front diff and a 21 row pwr oil cooler where the factory SMIC sits. thinking of utilising 2 m6 sump bolts and some 4mm bent steel plate but thought these missing photos could provide some insight into other good options.

Are the ikeya parts still available?

My s2 c34 rs4s type b Definitly did not have a factory clutch switch.

The return flow should have been good enough to provide much better results than what you got, so would definitely not be the issue. Dosepipe's suggestion above is a good one. I disagree I have dyno pressure drop tested my blitz return flow and they are crap. It’s my limiting factor currently but will be doing back to back comparison with new plazmaman pro series gtr cooler when I get around to fitting it

Yea Mca 100%

return flow intercoolers are shite. i have one and my next upgrade is to a plazmaman or similar. why you running a plenum spacer?

Bump

What power are you trying to support? deatschwerks dw300 is a good e85 rated pump that supports good flow and is 39mm diameter body so is a “drop in” solution. Get like 3m or so of raceworks 400 series push loc hose (e85 rated) and change in tank lines, soft lines from tank to hard line, soft lines from hard line to fuel rail and also the short sections that are in the fuel rail. You will also need a 10 micron stainless filter. Not too sure if the oem fpr is suited for e85. This is my plan for when I get around to it.

chasing a used pwr or plazmaman intercooler 76mm or thicker. if you have anything or want to upgrade to even bigger nows the perfect time to sell your old unit to me! location: gold coast qld price: gonna say im willing to spend 500 or potentially abit more if its pretty well brand new cheers

ok so bit of an update of things i did afew months ago, finally got another brake/clutch switch and late a32 maxima / early y61 gu patrol steering wheel switch and put those in. it is the oem switch that bolts in to this steering wheel got a full a32 nissan maxima cluster for some pins and the "cruise" light in the cluster. i took apart both the stagea and maxima clusters and cut the "cruise" light out of the maxima one and slowly using acetone on a cotton bud, removed the black tint stuff and orange from the "O/D OFF" light as my c34 is manual so i dont need it. clear nail polish cleans up the acetone job and makes it more clear then i superglued the "cruise" light to the c34 cluster strip. i then had to cut a small slit into the trace for the light pin i chose as unlike i originally thought, one end of the traces is NOT connected to ground so i needed to bridge it to ground with the solder pads i made and a bridging wire. you cant see it very well as the photo i took is terrible but the final product is a fully oem looking clearly visible "cruise" light when i activate the cruise control. next in the list of things to do is take the steering wheel off and investigate a bolt in solution for the clock springs by testing a early y61 gu patrol clock spring i got from a wrecker and i might then if successful make up some "kits" that will be a little bit more difficult to install than a headunit/sub amp and will require some amount of mechanical knowledge. ^ some testing i did with acetone on the junk maxima cluster. i found to make it as clear as possible it is best to do one small light wipe with the cotton bud then use a fresh section of cotton but to limit contamination. ^

This was stolen only a few days ago so it could potentially have been this one. Should notify police

Any other details? C34 Or m35? Series 1 or 2 etc or any other identifiable features? This kinda shit deeply angers me. Hope yours didn’t cop too much damage