DN14

thats the thing, even if that did get rid of the squeaking a week later it wil just rise again i need to know the root cause of this

one thing i know is that its definitely not a copper grease issue iv used a kilo of anti squeal behind the pads aswell as applying copper grease without no effect what do these marks mean? http://i.imgur.com/kKX9wcv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/8V7yyrX.jpg iv only had these pads for less than 10 days now

took the r33 to another mechanic (works on alot of performance cars) it was apparently the rear pads, they swapped over the Bendix pads with Repco thermoquite ones & the squeak did go away. now a week after it squeals again .. imsomadritenow f**k wat to do? really considering selling the car after getting the brakes done by mechanics twice and 10 times myself just for it to squeak again

please do mate after tons of work done on the brakes to stop the squeal they still bloody squeal, cosidering taking it in to a brake specialist now

new pads didnt come with shims i used the old shims for fronts, but for rears i dont have shims could using a fluid with lower boiling point then recommended also cause to overheat my mechanic bed them in, he also told me if it squeaks again i need to replace pads with a softer compound one i dont know if this is the case

so iv had this issue for a while now and it is really getting annoying now at first i had alot of squeal though after machining my rotors i had got rid of most of all that though now my brake starts to squeal after about 15 minutes of city driving why is this? ill note brand new bendix general ct brake pads pads bedded in & edges smoothed new rotors very recently machined brakes components should be all clean anti squeal compound has been used behind pads i know that last time i did i brake fluid flush i used dot 3 which repco rep told me was what i needed though i found out my car actually uses dot 4 could this possibly be the cause?

yes gtsboy

a little update.. few days after i posted this thread my turbo comepltely f**kd up i took a look and the shaft had like 3cm play literally so im guessing the turbo was the reason why my car started stalling just finished removing & installing the new turbo few hours ago (first time & did it alone) and everything seems fine the actuator on the turbo is set at 11psi though when i took it for a run according to my gauge it got up to 16? i know the actuator is rubbing against the side of my car could this play a role in this?

the auto trans fluid was in nick condition & plenty in there, didn't need replacing but i did a quick flush anyway as i already had bought the fluid its never stalled while at a stand still both the times it happened was while i was moving in for a turn i truly dont think its due to not having a bov iv been running without one for a fair bit now and has never ever done this till just recently as a matter of fact started happening couple days after i put in a catback system ill just have to take it in to a mech to get it looked at

currently not running a bov

this has been happening very recently, yesterday i was driving then while going in for a turn my r33 stalled on me happened again today was turning then stalled on me i noticed it happens when i press the acceleration firmly then let go and go in for a turn it stalls could the OD function be the cause for this? ill also note that i usually have to press down the gas pedal when starting the car otherwise it just wont even attempt to turn over

would this fit my bugatti veyron

yeah rotor was off but still didn't know exactly, so i just left it intact with hub but disconnected it up from the tailshaft

quick question, im removing my rear wheel hub how is the ebrake cable disconnected from the hub?

looking to buy a cheap r33 series 1 reinforcement bar, located in VIC front bar only!

impact wrench is a very useful tool

yeah they were all like that picked it up from repco, its Autotecnica anyway earthed to lighter socket all seems working fine

yeah i was surprised to but the battery was there for demonstration purpose, outside the box theres a "test me" button currently confused were to earth now lol

thanks mate!

So i either didn't receive an instruction manual with my gauge kit or i just lost it, anyway could someone enlighten me on how the wiring works in this particular setup please ? (which is what) so far i have the vacuum hose routed to inside the cabin and just need to wire this thing up but am having difficulty without this manual

well this makes so much sense now so I guess the worn part wasnt the tie rod end but the balljoint in the steering arm. anyways thanks both

Iv been told my rear right hand side tie rod end is worn so i ordered myself a replacement from eBay and he confirmed its the right fit via the VIN number, I received it & tried fitting it earlier today but i noticed its completely different to mine? here is a picture of the one i ordered and here is the one on my car am i not looking at the correct part? i removed my tie rod end & its just a long piece of metal completely different to first pic there's no ball joint how could that be worn?

hmm what bout a Emanage piggy back ecu ? and yes its auto

alright if I were to get an aftermarket I would still have to get nistune installed on it?

yeah though so, I doubt its toshi tuned either according to a quick look up his located in NSW and im from VIC so back the the actual question what would be a slightly inexpensive alternative then getting nistune installed?