Matvei27

Something Impul or Panasport, right? Which model specifically? Anyone know what gram light model this one is:

I want ideas for R32 GTS-t coupe wheels. Show me what you have on your car! Period accurate is even better, but give me anything!

Yep, in the doors. How well do they stick back on? Did you just put it over the existing putty and press it down again? edit: It may seem like a dumb question/topic, but the majority of sound deadening kits I am looking at say to remove it, clean up all the putty, and not put it back on. I'm wondering WHY exactly you shouldn't put it back on, especially if it was there from the factory to protect from water.

When you guys install sound deadening on your R32s, do you put back the plastic waterproofing sheet over the top or did you leave it taken out? Just curious.

Looking to buy one. Part # 1418-RN008 Looks like this: Offering $250 AUD for an item in good, usable condition. Please note that the item for the S2 RB25 and RB25 NEO (1418-RN010) is *not* the same and will not fit as the bung hole for the O2 sensor is located on the opposite side. The one I need is designed for cars without ABS. The RN010 is designed for cars with ABS, hence the O2 sensor had to be moved. If you use a RN010 in a car without ABS it will hit the piping for the aircon so you cannot attach the O2 sensor.

I mean for daily driving. People regularly get 300+kw out of them, but remember the RB25 is slightly less reliable. I included the figures for 260/300 as well for those with more mods. And as I said above you *will* begin to see a difference at 260/300kw between the two cars. The difference is in stock form and in heavily modified form. Just not in between the two endpoints, apparently. They're not popular because you have to spend more money to get the same gains that you could get easily from a RB25. Clearly if you intend to go beyond 260/300kw on either engine you are going to be better off with the RB25. But if you don't, I'm not sure there's going to be too much of a difference.

I'm not making shit up. I'm comparing the data on the two cars. That doesn't mean *real world* performance will be the same, but that's subjective. The only way to objectively compare the two cars is with math, unless you have some better idea.

If it makes you feel better here's how it looks with heavy mods: R32 @ 260kw = 3.10 R34 @ 300kw = 2.97 The R34 outperforms the R32 in stock and heavily modified forms, but in between they are quite similar at least according to the numbers.

Out of curiosity I decided to calculate the actual performance difference between a R32 GTS-t and R34 GT-T. One with the RB20DET, and one with a RB25DET NEO. I decided to share my work if anyone was interested in knowing the actual power/weight ratio of these cars. I am calculating using the coupe (Type M for the R32) variants, with manual transmission. For the R32, we are calculating using the zenki which is slightly lighter but not by much Standard figures are 1280kg @ 215PS for the HCR32, and 1410kg @ 280ps for the ER34. Here's the results: Stock: R32 GTS-t = 5.95kg/ps R34 GT-T = 5.03kg/ps Stage 2 mods: R32 GTS-t @ 220rwkw = 3.62kg/ps R34 GT-T @ 250rwkw = 3.55kg/ps More mods: R32 GTS-t @ 240rwkw = 3.36kg/ps R34 GT-T @ 270rwkw = 3.29kg/ps Tons of mods: R32 @ 260kw = 3.10 R34 @ 300kw = 2.97 As you can see from the results, the difference is quite significant in stock form, which makes sense because the RB25 has that extra displacement in addition to a bigger turbo. However, once both cars are modified, the difference is quite insignificant until you get past the limits of the RB20.

Nismo claims that the 2 way "carbon" LSD is actually better than the 1.5 for circuit and street use. "This LSD's operation was perfected to deliver the maximum grip needed for circuit racing. It will give you superior traction whatever the tire or road conditions." and "The great stability of the GT L.S.D. Pro Carbon <2-WAY> also makes it ideal for normal street use, where road conditions can be poor and where too powerful an LSD can actually reduce efficiency. Compared to the GT L.S.D. and the GT L.S.D. Pro, this is the best choice for street use."

YGPM

Looking for the Greddy A-pillar gauge holder for an R32. PM me if you have one! Either 52mm or 60mm is fine.

Ball bearing?

YGPM

waiting to see it off the car

Waiting on the pics.

I'm offering $150 USD for these if that motivates someone to go check their storage shed.

I got a RB20 turbo for $100 to hi-flow. It actually isn't even blown. Thanks guys, sorry for all the questions. The Skyline scene in the USA is much younger so less information out here.

Looking for a pair of these:

SydneyKid has basically told me that changing my ceramic turbo for another ceramic turbo is a waste of time/money, so I'm now between getting a RB20 hi-flowed or buying a 2530. Opinions? Price is around the same. Which is the better choice for my setup? 1bar or so seems low for the 2530, but might be perfectly fine on the hi-flow RB20? Rekin said he never tried the RB20 hi-flow that he had and just went straight to the 2530 (which heat soaked at 15psi), so my inclination is to just try the RB20 hi-flow and see how it goes.

That's not the point of this thread. Obviously that's one solution. At this point all I want to know is how to get the most out of the RB25 turbo with a side mount. My car is barely legal as it is, the last thing I need is a FMIC telling everyone to pull me over.

I have a RB20 power FC already, which was hard to get. I'm thinking if I change the injectors and AFM and upgrade to the ARC side mount instead of the R34 GTT side mount (105mm core vs 80mm core) I should be okay for 12~14psi on the RB25 stock turbo. Sound right?

OK then I am going to order a RB25 turbo and will consider adjustable gears only if the lag bothers me enough to warrant the money. I have a new fuel pump but would you recommend changing the injectors or not necessary?

20psi definitely wouldn't work with my SMIC as Rekin said he had heatsoak on his ARC unit at 15psi with a 2530. I don't care about the price as much as I care about getting the best option within the limits of my setup. What kind of boost do people run the RB20 hi-flow at? That being said, you could also get a RB25 turbo with a set of Tomei poncams and gears for a similar price to a RB20 hi flow. Couldn't you run the RB25 at 12psi and use the tomei kit to fix the low end so it has the same responsiveness as the stock RB20 unit?

I can get a HKS 2530 kit brand new for $1800 USD though. Doesn't that make $1500 for a RB20 hi-flow kind of a waste? Can I run the 2530 at a low enough boost level? And what boost level are you suggesting I run a RB20 hi-flow at?