GT-R David

I'm going to answer my own questions in here, just for future reference, IF someone uses the search button. Haven't driven the car that much this year, but seems to work fine. Has Tomei orifice, Tomei pump, breather from right cam cover to catch tank. Sump breather from right side of sump to left cam cover. Baffled and enlarged sump. Overfilled to top of "H" mark on dipstick No oil pressure drops anymore when accerlerating hard. I adjusted the pressure to stage 3/5 (single spring and two shims). Max pressure is around 6.8bar now at 6500rpm. Still 3bar hot idle. Cold idle is 4.8bar. 3500rpm is around 5bar now. Everything with Fuchs Titan pro s 10w50 Really happy with the oil system now.

Don't ever try the beach flavored fresh air, tried it once, there's still sand coming out of my exhaust every day. Friends car is running good on the horse air tho...

Exactly. 95% CAS related problem.

This is not normal. There should only be one insulator

What does that mean? Air will be in the hoses, not in the reservoir. Bleed it as stated in the workshop manual first.

COC is only available for cars that are available in the EU. Stagea was for japanese market only, so there is no COC available. But I'm sure there are other ways getting it registered. Maybe register in another EU country before?

I actually like the Nistune and would like to keep it. And they are not old school Sard, they are the new type with 6 hole for better spray pattern. P&P kit for rb26 engine. We also tried a completly new basemap and it was the same. So no problem in the settings. Fuel pressure is spot on, Greddy in car gauge shows no drop or rise in pressure.

Weirdest running rich problem above 3000rpm Hi all. Hope someone can help me with my problem. I have an R32 GTR, freshly build RB28. Mapped with Nistune. Car was running fine while we mapped it and also the day after that. Next day it had the weirdest problem. Car is running completly normal until exactly 3000rpm. Above 3000rpm the AFR drops to 10.5:1 instantly and stays there almost the entire rev range. Doesn't matter if I'm driving oder reving it in neutral. It also doesn't matter what settings we make in Nistune. It's always the same above 3000rpm. What we checked so far: -both AFM have rising voltage with rev and load -TPS has normal Voltage -has 3000km old Splitfire coilpacks -has 4000km old Mine's AFMs -has 200km old Sard 850cc high impedance injectors and resistor delete -tried a different CAS -shows normal water temperatur -shows normal IAT temperatur -problem also happens with unpluged O2-Sensors. Looks like some kind of limp mode to me, but can't figure it out. I'm realy pissed with the car (again). Hope someone can help me.

Just send it to Omori factory Japan and let them do their magic. You can choose if you want an S-Tune or R-Tune fridge upgrade. They will use OEM parts from the manufacturer and label them Nismo and charge you three times the price of the OEM parts, but that's the only way to justify the badge.

Is you stock exhaust temperstur sensor still in place? Is the temp warning light on? When the two cables are cut and stuck together the car will shut of after a specified time.

I think this is what almost everyone wants. Im looking forward to see the results.

It's an 11mm head from memory. Could be M7. But I'm sure it's not M5 with 8mm head.

How much oil pressure is to much? My RB28 has Tomei pump, 1.5mm head restrictor, 0.8mm turbo banjo bolts, 0,045mm main bearing clearance and 0,050mm conrod bearing clearence. Tomei oil pump is at factory setting (max pressure) at the moment. My Greddy digital gauge showing up to 7.5 bar on hot engine at 5500rpm with the 15w40 running in oil. Will go back to 10w50 soon. Seems fine at cold idle (6 bar) and hot idle (3 bar) and normal driving with hot engine at 3500rpm (6bar) Should I go down with the pressure?

Type M spats doesn't fit the GTR well

You could also remove the engine. Will make the weight distribution a lot better.

You have to cut the skirts a little bit. The GTR fenders are wider.

No, they need some work to fit properly.

Yes, it should be just a sticker

Always remove the front drive shaft. Sure there is no preload on the R32 transfer case clutch package, but the clutch discs will still be on contact. This may not be a problem when driving on the road and the front wheels have the same speed as the rear wheels. But it will be on the dyno, the friction will produce a large amount of heat. And also, 2530 are a lot bigger than GTSS. They will be on boost 1000rpm later.

I have the same problem. Googled and everybody said it's 1/4bsp. But it isn't! This will screw in only 2 turns because the original part it is tapered. The hydraulic shop ordered me the "right" one. Same thread as the valve, also tapered. But it screws in only one turn, because it's a little big thicker where the taper starts. I will just use a good silicone end cap on the valve now.

Filling up gearbox oil through the shifter will not work on an AWD Skyline!

Double post. Sorry

Engine is getting rebuild right now. Will add a Tomei Oil restrictor. No track days at all. Only Street driving. Only a few kilometers per year. Don't see any need for a drain back to the sump, will empty it if there will ever be a drop of oil in it. Didn't had a catch tank at all before and had almost no oil consumption, but will make the engine bulletproof this time. I don't wanna do it again. Main question is, will this work as good as going directly from sump to catch tank? Should not make much of a difference?

Does anything speak against this setup: -Hose from right cam cover to catch tank -Stock Hose from left to right cam cover -Properly baffled Catch tank vent to atmosphere And here comes the part I didn't find anything in this thread: -Hose from AN10/12 fiitting from sump (above oil level on intake side) to existing left cam cover connecting point (which normally goes to intake before turbo). Should do the trick same as going directly to the catch tank, am I right? So I can use the existing port on the cam cover, don't need to modify my catch tank and it is a really high point (maybe less blow by than going directly to catch tank)