Targa Tom

Got one... thanks for interest. TT

You may have revised arms, but if you park level, jack up the front till Ride height is standard (Jack in middle of K bar) then look at your camber. Basically the lower you go, the more you got.... Accentric bushes in the top arms will normall allow you to dial it out TT

Scoot round to JustJap with a pair of scales tucked under your arm.... TT

We run ours fairly rich on a trailing throttle... helps cool turbo and I would guess stops similar problems to what you are having. Helps with the flames too... Which can't be bad LOL TT

PMLOL...

Well there you go - While a UK site, seems fair enough. So just do one up on your 'puter same as sample, print on "Avery" sticker sheet... done job. TT

Think you will find OEM are 8.5... 9" = Mod TT

Santa's lead deer is on to it. If you don't have line clamps, vise grips will do. (these lines shouldn't be going back anyhow) Fill your res to the top and replace cap. Clamp and remove rubber jobby from calliper... then fit new line. A quick change of the solid to flex line shouldn't lose too much fluid. Keep hose handy and wash residue off strait away. (NB remove pads so errent fluid doesn't get in em) "BrakeClean is the the go... Good Luck (Be thorough) PS Try not use vise grips on nuts. Better to buy a ringy and make it into a nut spanner. (or buy nut spanner) TT

I reckon you could learn to mix two pack glue and apply for a lot less than the price of splitfires... Can you see them tracking in the dark? If not I would start by gapping your plugs. Even if your car has Jap heat range plugs will give drama's We have on car with Splitfires one with OEM. For mine and anything less than a fire breather OEM. TT

Aussie compliers fit these and the OEM one becomes redundant. They are normally fitted "In da gluv box" TT

Seems if you need to ask the above questions, you better get someone to give you a hand... Your bleeding procedure is wrong... and we don't want your career expanding to a crash test dummy do we? Better rubber lines and brakes, than trick braided and no brakes! TT

...for a high reving engine you would take both hoses to the catch can and disable the plumb back. Bit without the top end oil restricters in the block, high rev/boost will pump out about 1ltr/10 laps. For street the plumb back maintains the pollution control... TT

We are still finalizing a navigator for TT2005. If anyone out there is interested, then maybe a PM to me would not be a waste of time... If you are a current or past motorsport competitor, know what it takes to fit in a winning team and are capable of bringing some budget to the team please continue and PM. If you're idea of fun is long days of extreme concentration, capped off by overcoming the challenge of one of the toughest events on the Oz calender, then tell me why I should call you. Primmadonnas dont waste youre time... TT

bits of string vary in length. Park your car on a level surface, measure all four corners from centre of the wheel to the guard lip. The from the sills to the deck front and rear both sides. Now years ago we used to measure glad bags of stuff with two fingers... but the accepted method for measuring a car suspension is tape measure. mm since '74 put the results up here and you may get an answer with some sense... Good luck TT

LOL. and you had the courage to let other people know.... I'm still grinning. Merry Xmas brake guy TT

Sounds like it has been fitted with a leak if its hunting... all hoses pipes etc. snizen? Would have to be convinced it is a turbo fault, weather too big or not. More like the new levels of performance are making the engine run lean?? Anyhow, ring the guys and if it is their problem they will move mountains to fix it... like most specialist turbo people their work is tops... There may be others round as good - I just haven't dealt with 'em. Call em before you bag em tiger. TT

....twice. For less than 2k you'll get great work, service and experience. TT

But being a 33 you should be able to get it sorted thru the site in the states with english manuals... Sometimes you need to take a shuffle back in order to walk forward. A PFC with HC would have to work out cheap if you fence all your exsisting fruit... An a path well warn is littered advice... TT

The Old ie 370/(new) 440 = .84 or 84% remember it is a correction from OEM to new.... you are telling the PFC to deliver less. The lag is done by subtracting specs. eg new - old .73 - .64 = .09 lag You might have to knock back your lower air flow voltages if its messy down low Hope this gets you started... You are doing stuff for pros or people who are responsible for their own actions... if you are not one of these, get someone who is!! 6 cylinder grenades are expensive TT

I showed my engine mate who has shagged round with circuit cars for yonks the Tomei poncam specs. He has seen my car on a dyno and immediatly pointed to the 260's (matched) "That's what you're thing needs!!" As for the springs, I think I would put in as a "cna't hurt it" measure. But as a Targa car, we are working within a lot of restrictive rules compared to improved production... and for TT we need to chase 2500 - 3500 kw. Whoever says you don't drive off boost is kidding themselves... more mid range is an old bike trick. Helps carry corner speed and stops the buzzy agreesiveness from what should be suttle throttle resets. Just a bit off, but we put all the gtr's behind one of our projects at Basky a couple of weeks ago. @ a mid 60, maybe only Whitey R34N1($150k+) and Greg Garwood, (X WalkerMC - NSW, Mines R33 Vspec - Cost = heaps) have gone faster... So spend sensible dollars and you will go fast. TT

...@ 2.55bar. Which is standard Nissan fuel pressure. Top feed for top feed and then they should be drop in replacement. The only other base change to begin with is as per attached pdf. Hope this helps, TT

Got it on "Get Right" now... TT

...the weight??....LOL. Seems to me like there is no good reason not to have them on... next thing we will be concerned about the additional latent heat and its hp sapping abbility. My vote 1 800 PUT THEM ON TT

just had a response from the Datalogit forum from an SR20 punter who had experienced the same problem!!! Do you have a wiing diagram - or the rest of the one above. I have'nt seen one so clear before. TT

That saves a lot of rooting round then.... but box OK yeah? Shaft you mean output and not input. We are mainly concerned with bell bousing. We are getting near the front with our circuit car and just planning our next step in the program... Thanks again. TT