Targa Tom

Dont be quick to judge... I think all the R34's where under the microscope... Mainly because none were the same! The car that drew attention to this was a black monaro! Now the sprays are just so obvious, and how much difference did did they make. My spin is, Give Jason White a legal car... and let him do what he does best - Drive! We all know how good a Porche is... but Glenney is the only guy to show how good a R34 is.... Tom

but not in the big one. I'm working in Indo so this is all hearsay, but I am told a meeting in TT HQ may see the Whites excluded from the 04 Targa Tas results. (So much for my opinion eh Dunc) But they did kick a goal last weekend http://www.rallytasmania.com.au/rallye/news/index.htm? Roll on TT05

The biggest mistake people make with bikes, Karts, and cars is forget the guy who designed the thing had a fair idea.... After all he earns a heap of Yen and would be out of a job otherwise. Safest boost level is standard... end of story! It allows for fuel variables, worn engine components and is working with its mate the ECU who was born the same day. Additional boost = additional performance. and the reliability is inversely proportional. That is why most performance mods are sold as a package... and considering you can hardley notice <20kw, it becomes a game of chance, you decide at what level you wish to play... Good Luck

$AUD800 crank and rods

R31 was where I started, to build a classic Targa Car, but then the R31 GT® like the hot model was ¥500,000 so we ended with the HCR32. I have just done a deal on a crank... Have to go to South Korea later in the year, will go via Japan and get rest of bits. Just hope the AUD holds up... Thanks for talking me into it Roy! TT

The basic difference is Roy will find a few dollars in his budget for the odd beer and bourbon, You browny will say, "damm, I didnt budget for that! Gotta go without beer for a week!" Any big end bolt is use once in the performance world. Well you got me excited Roy... We just bought a house and now I have a base to work on projects! So might try and put together a 2.4 for the local circuit races (Tomie piston kit bout AUD2k). Thats if I dont decide to get a boat! Check the view Is that a realistic price for Crank / Rods (I have no idea) or would it creep up from there? TT

Guess you need a girl friend with no morals, and a loud stereo... That will overcum the noise problem. Good Luck.

I notice my EBC Red Stuff Ceramics have a ruberised shim molded to the pad... maybe the stuff they are using these days means you cant just throw your shims away. The shims are just soft metal to dampen the high frequency vibration. Slip the pads out, use as a template to cut a shim from a can that had your fav drop in. This will stop it if it can be stopped... Also there should be an anti rattle clip on the back of the caliper. Hope this helps TT

Yes Please, All the peices outside the engine bay... 2 x brackets, 1 x 45° rubber bend, 1 x steel 65mmdia pipe. How much? TT

Anyone who has changed out their intercooler, I would like to purchase all the brackets and piping (behind bar) Cheers

..if your car doesn't turn up with adjustable coil overs. The springs will be about 7kg front and 5kg rear - (Normal Jap AM) So just wind it down to suit. Because of the ratio 1mm on the shock is about 1.5 on the car TT

We run our 335mm - 345mm, DMS std is 330, Tein is 320... What he said! TT

Standard swaybars vs Whiteline Having said that we removed our whiteline and returned to standard OEM bars. Please be aware, what provides grip and stability on the race track will be less than ideal on the road... particularily in the wet. Be careful! Thats why many people are now building a club day racer that is not their daily driver. We will be doing a lot of testing before next TT, and finally we will have cab adjustable bars for setting days. The bushes that whitline have available remove all the forgiveness in your car... great for full hook into turn one at the creek, but in the real world, I dont think so TT Pics = with bars/shox & without

You're almost there... Need ECU and EBC, dunno if your turbo is ceramic, if so you will struggle to maintain reliability. Use only quality fuel.. 1.0bar should get you round 200rwkw. TT

Well never under estimate a two-head with his back to the wall! The Telecast version of the Targa Video that went to air included the "delta hydraulics scoreboard" I think I can safely say that there will be no issues with the #934 car... Also had some onboard stuff that showed the car on "Fuel Cut" for about 10sec. The Sydney boys didnt make the TV version with their showboating at Ross, but the guy driving the Bunnings Skyline who altered his line to fire rocks at the film crew did... LOL TT

Q: What do you do when you are a car manufacturer and you look like being hosed by a couple Tassy Hillbillys? A: Tell everyone who wants to listen that the offending hillbillys have a car that does not comply. In order to do this you spread rumour and hopefully it will do the hillbillys head in.. (All this is only my opinion) I think strut braces, dump pipes and intercooler issues where going to be questioned. But as far as I am aware, they didn't go ahead... (therefore no need to prove legallity). The Whites are very clever, and if there is a way to gain advantage I am sure they would do it... but they have also been doing the car thing for a while and would be able to stay within the rules. There maybe some washup but doubt it. The actual finger pointing was at a few R34 "N1's" -not just the Whites - as there were three top running cars and they all looked different under the bonnet. A good N1 is hard to find LOL TT PS The car manufacturer had nothing to gain after two excursions and a tire penalty.

Mark your diaries now - the Southern Cross Television one-hour special on Targa Tasmania 2004 will be shown in Tasmania on Southern Cross Television at 6.30pm on Saturday 22 May 2004 and will be shown nationally on the Ten Network at 1pm on Sunday 27 June 2004. Enjoy Ciao TT

I think Jason is one of the most under rated wheel men going round... He could have been Marcus Ambrose, but he isn't... could have won Targa a couple of times, but hasn't... We all have if-but-maybe stories - I have one, Cricky has one, and the boys from Sydney have one! At the end of the day Whites finished second, and what a mighty job they did. But please, I'm sick of the - when he's on fire every thing is great, but when they are not having such a good run its a $2.00 part - they prepared the car, and that is all part of the package. And that kilometer of Richo's would have to be on Arrowsmith (42k to 47k mark Snow)- I have an RPM suit that logged quite a few traction issues. Now Phat, thanks to you and all your mates who do the stand on the side of the road and make it happen thing... they dont always do the best job possible, but they try their best I am sure. For those who are unaware, they get yelled at, swore at, and rained on, snowed on... some even blown away. It would be easier to go and watch the stage somewhere with an eski. So a sincere thanks. We are back next year with a bigger budget (Bunnings is bringing in new sponsors) and maybe a N1... So right now I'm trying to buy a house with a decent shed so we can prepare it. Ciao TT

Thanks Steve, I will email you for details... Even though I didnt expect a replacement, as you can understand - being a relatively low budget operation - we are very greatful. (And I wouldnt have named them) Every now and then during racing you have a product that for what ever reason does not perform to your expectation. Given the many variables, it is refreshing and almost unheard of to get this response. For all those wondering, we also run the same model front rotor, without any problems, in fact same car or different car, I will use the same product in Targa 2005... That is not just because I like the way they do business, but I am convinced they have a good product. (Some top brands sold in Oz are branded - I believe - by dba for their clients). Regards TT PS. Yes Gaz, We always roll the car while waiting for time cards etc... even If we have to reverse back to get it. Also you get 200-500 meters of run down, which gives a fair bit of knock off time.

Standard Brake config.. ie no bias adjust, no limit knob, no hydraulic h'brake etc. Pads in rear ebc green stuff, fnt = Red Stuff (V3) - ebc cant supply RS for rear. Drove on the street for 2-3 weeks. 50 dyno runs, and a day at Baskerville (12 laps). But never servere on brakes - my style tends to be float 'em in rather than stop turn shoot (lack of power dictates that) Then Day 0, 1, 3, and this happened at the end of day 4. If we keep the car I will go dual with bias adj for next year, and dial it in on the heat paint/infra thermometer. As for bias indicative symptoms, at the end of symmons plains straights, (damp) it picked up the fronts slightly, without locking the rears. I don't like the slots to the edge... will use oem style on the rear next time. Unfortunately with the wheel size cannot make enough gains to warrant bigger discs (commercial decision). Thats why we are looking to move to an N1 BNR32. Oh, and it does it when cooling. They are fine until cooled - maybe in Tassie they cool too quick??

210 x 225 x 80mm Coil size. End tanks have 65mm out/inlet I wouldnt worry about that little ding if the price is right... Just get a radiator shop to leak test it... Check the price at your Nissan Dealer, and I'm sure you'll be happy to spend $150 Hope that helps.

Tony Sullens WON Targa this year, he just happened to be driving a WRX, A privately imported non Oz model WRX... So he was in an import, not a VW, and he is under 55yo. He'll do me TT

And dont forget to plug GB... a little bit of oil can make a lotta mess.. Good Luck TT

What is the event Roy? I have 200litres of elf I need to use... TT

But leave gearbox on... watch power steer hoses near "K" rail when replacing and a tip if not allready mentioned. Jack the rear of the car as high as possible, that provides exit angle for GB. its best if this is done with big floor jack, (jack stands for safety) I have done em with GB off and it is a pain... top bell housing bolts and starter motor bolts time saved is enough to convince me. TT