Peter

Is the tacho in the S13 reading correctly? Sounds like the ECU is hitting it's rev limiter (constant miss noise you mention). Maybe get another stock or an after market tacho and see what it reads? Something like an SAFC NEO or Greddy Infometer will also do the trick - see what the ECU is seeing.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-lambda-oxygen-sensor-genuine-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-stagea-wgc34-rsv-stagea-wgnc34-rsfour-series-p-187.html Couldn't find the cheaper NTK one - sorry.

Hi Mate, Can't remember how much they charged and I will have to check in the shed how many I have left. I have scanned the fuel rail etc. for you below. Looks like the part number is 17520J? Try that with Nissan and let me know how you go? Good luck mate Pete

Thanks for all replies guys. The thing is I have a tin of acrylic paint, premium thinners and the door sanded back and ready to go - so I'll give it crack and see how I go - if I stuff it up I'll sand it back and try again...and maybe again...if I fully fail then off to the shop - just trying to DIY to save some cash at the moment. Any other advice is always welcome! Cheers again!

Hi Mate. I have a series 1 33 and it has five of the hard spacers between the rail and the block, although on the fuel rail removal tutorial I saw that one had 3? Maybe a difference between Series 1 and 2?? Anyway, I picked them up from Nissan easily, as I lost some as well. I still have a few spares, so if you need one let me know - Im in Perth. Good luck!

Thanks mate - will focus on getting the prep work done as best I can. Unfortunately I haven't managed to progress at all as it has been so humid in Perth recently, didn't want to risk painting and getting moisture in the mix. Couple of questions I did think of though: 1. When I sanded it back, on the door it creases out slightly and this has gone down to metal (small hairline section - about 5 cm long and 1 - 2 mm wide, just where the crease is) - will this be a problem, or if I make sure this is surface rust free, can I just spray straight over it? 2. Suppose the second question is self explanatory - have I missed any steps out or got anything wron in my first post? Thanks for your help, Pete

Hi Guys, So I want to have a shot at painting my door due to damage....so far I have: 1. Disassembled door and fixed all damage - panel beating, bogged, primed etc. 2. Sanded the rest of the door back to a matt finish using 800 grit wet and cleaned with wax and grease remover. Now from googling I will have to: 3. mix 1/3 paint with 2/3 thinners and stir. 4. set air pressure to spray gun recommedation - I am using a gravity fed gun - high volume low pressure (HVLP). 5. Begin spraying from approximately 30cm distance with an overlapping motion (15cm fan, 1.8mm tip on gun). 6. Apply 6 - 8 coats of colour. 7. Allow to dry. 8. Sand with 1200 grit wet 9. Apply 3 coats of clear. 10. Allow to dry for 24+ hours. 11. Sand with 1500 grit wet. 12. Polish with a rubbing compund to gloss. Can you please let me know if I have missed anything out or got anything wrong? Before taking it to a shop, I thought I would give it a go myself. Thanks, Pete

Try grounding the wires for the EGT - I have heard this solves the problem. I cut mine a while ago back when I had a standard ECU and never suffered the check engine light. Now I have a PFC and can see it just sits on 5V all the time. I have an R33 RB25DET.

Could it be the sender unit in the engine bay? The one in my old Patrol died and I replaced that with a second hander from the wreckers and it has been working fine now for 3 years...although it is a diesel...? The one in my 33 started to jump a little, but has now stopped...

Have you tried Moroday foam tape from Bunnings? I used this to replace the foam near the top of radiator where it joins the front of the car and what seals the top of the stock intake snorkel against the bonnet. Let me know how you go?

Thanks mate - will do!

Yep - all should have - unless you have a stock ECU in a PFC case? How did you go?

Mine is on an R33GTS-t so I don't know if it is different to the 32GTR, but it still bolts up to the original location - the cases are identical apart from the holes for the hand controller and boost controller. Taking it apart is easy; kinda just like taking an amp apart - some screws and it then just pulls apart. You should be able to tell very easily if it has the socket for the hand controller - as far as I know all PFCs do. I reckon someone has done a stealth install and just switched the cases, as I can quite eaily pull my PFC out of it's case and put it into the normal ECU case and vice versa. If you really get stuck I can dig up some photos - pretty sure I took some shots when I had it apart a while ago.

Is it just a different case - like a standard ecu case? Take apart the case and see if the plugs are on the ciruit board hidden by the case.

Cool - thanks mate! I'll read the wideband manual regarding the simulated output function. Also, does anyone know how the cheaper NGK ones compare to the more expensive OEM Nissan ones? I checked them both out on Kudos' site. Thanks again! **SORRY for the double post - didn't think the stupid phone uploaded the first one!**

Cool, thanks mate! Does anyone know how the $80-$100 NGK ones compare to the more expensive OEM Nissan ones - checked Kudos' website who stock both? Thanks again!

Installed Power FC - doing basic setup for a tune as suggested in the Power FC FAQ. Whenever I put it into closed loop mode it starts to idle really rough, A/F goes very rich on my wideband (12:1), and it barely drives. If I take it out of closed loop it runs richer than standard ECU but idles and drives normally. I know closed loop relies on the oxygen sensor to trim fuel at steady accelerator levels - so does the above indicate it is stuffed? I did a sensor check at idle through the hand coontroller and it sat at 1.3 V. i revved it and it didn't change? Is it time for a new one? Thanks, Pete

Stock ECU will not run a Z32. You need an SAFC NEO, PFC, EMU etc.

Yeah...really easy...took it out as mentioned above, welded it and put it back in within an hour or so - still going strong over seven years later.

I think my friend with his NA-T Supra got his EMU tuned at C-Red and was quite happy with the result.

Thanks for all the replies! I have taken everything into account and as recommended will look around at what other compressors are avaiable, to see if increasing the price slightly makes a huge difference. I'll also speak to a paint shop to see what they recommend regarding the type of gun and the size of needle required. Will post up what I find out. Thanks again - great advice, and I'm glad I didn't just go straight in and buy something that wouldn't do the job. Cheers, Peter

Hi Everyone! So I am thinking of getting an air compressor to (mainly) paint the damaged door of my R33, touch up my spoiler and front bar, and a few other things around the car. This will be the main reason for purchasing it, but I am also thinking of using it around the house, just to do some light duties, such as spraying the fence, inflating tyres etc. I didn't want to get one that was too expensive, so I have been looking at the ones available through Supercheap, Malz and Bunnings. They seem to all be around the same size and same price - this is what I am considering at the moment - which one would be the best for me? Supercheap $199 - Black Ridge 2.5HP Hi Flow Compressor - 40L tank - 115 PSI max operating pressure - 200L/min free air delivery or $119 - Black Ridge 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor - 40L tank -115 PSI max operating pressure - 120L/min free air delivery Malz $149 - SRT Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor - 40L tank - 125 PSI max operating pressure - 131L/min free air delivery Bunnings $199 Project Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor - 2 x 10L tanks - No other specs or $137 Project Air 2.5HP Direct Drive Compressor - 40L tank - No other specs Also, with regards to spray guns, do I go for a: - low pressure spray gun? - high pressure spray gun? - gravity fed spray gun? Thanks for your help and feedback, Pete

Thanks for the reply! - When the amp stopped producing sound completely, I took my stand alone CD player from my system in the house, ran an extension cord out to the car, and plugged the RCA jack of that into the fron and back channels, adjusted the gains and still no sound? So I thought definately not the RCAs outputs from the deck. I'll switch the RCAs around from the deck again today, and see what happens. I took apart the amp and it seems that the RCAs aren't broken - and A1 Audio checked this, and like I said when they tested it on the bench everything was fine!? But as soon as it goes into my car the rear sub channel starts playing up, and the front speakers crackle and cut in and out as I move the rear (sub) RCAs on and off the terminals? I'll try the wire wiggle as well... The car is not off-roaded that severely, I always take it easy - the deck is detachable face, with the buttons all flush, and a little rotary controller in the middle - I can get you the model if it makes that much of a difference? Any other suggestions? Thanks! Peter

Hi Everyone! Car: MQ Patrol – the bush basher / daily driver! Deck: Pioneer, with front pre-out and rear/sub pre-out. Amp: Sony XM-460GTX, front channels to splits, rear channel bridged for sub. Speakers: Splits and sub. Problem: Installed this about 12 months ago – working fine. Then the sub started to quieten, adjusted deck and amp, all good for a while, then one day the sub cut out completely. Checked wiring etc. all good. Played around with RCAs, when I unplugged one rear channel RCA, sub got loud, as I was plugging it back in front speakers crackled and sub cut in and out. I left only one rear channel RCA plugged in as a quick fix – all good. Sub died again. Completely unplugged rear (sub) RCAs – sub loud again. Left as is. Driving along one day – normal road, sound cuts out. Next morning back on, then when driving to work, crackles and cuts out – all speakers (sub and splits). Think it is possibly the deck, take home CD player with RCAs outside, power-up and plug into amp through RCAs – no sound on any channel – can’t be deck – must be amp. Play around with RCAs – no good, no sound at all – all fuses good, power and protection light still green. Take amp into A1 Audio (Perth), who test on bench for a week in different modes – no issue. Take hone last night and put back into car, working fine, and then sub cuts out again. Unplug one rear RCA and sub back and loud again, unplug both rear RCAs and sub as loud as it should be, front speakers working, but no sub control through deck as no rear RCAs plugged in. Sorry for the long description, but does anyone have an idea what the problem would be? The guy at A1 said the RCA inputs on the amps sometimes pack up, but when they tested everything it was fine? Any help would be much appreciated, as I just want to have the amp running normally, and be able to control the sub from the deck as it should be. Thanks! Peter

Hi Everyone! All these parts were from a Series 1 R33 Skyline with an RB25DET, and were removed working, as I gradually upgraded the car. As I am moving, I am selling these parts to make life easier. All parts are ONO, but please don’t offer too low, as I do need the cash! OK, I’ll kick it off, and will add more as I find them. 1. AFM (green label) perfect condition with plug - $90 2. ECU (manual transmission) - $70 3. Rear Strut Brace (exactly the same as this one) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/REAR-Strut-Trunk-Br...c#ht_2241wt_773 - $60 4. 6 standard injectors - $60 5. Plastic surround under steering wheel, including fuse box cover - $40 6. Stock front pipe and catalytic converter - $60 7. Stock airbox and used panel filter (no snorkel) - $60 8. Stock side mount intercooler - $70 9. Stock boost solenoid - $10 10. Stock rubber turbo inlet pipe - $30 11. Stock washer bottle - $30 12. Rear parcel shelf - $40 I am currently located in Gosnells, Western Australia, but will be moving to Riverton in about four weeks. Let me know via post or PM if you’re interested in anything. Happy to post, if you pay postage….. Any questions, or if you want photos, please let me know! Thanks, Pete