Peter

Sorry, I'm not exactly sure what the coil harness is - is it the insulated wires that go over the top of the coils that you see when you pull the allen keyed Nissan 2500cc thing off? If this is it, mine was quite brittle... is this the culprit?? PS: My RB25DET is Series 1 if that makes a difference? Thanks Pete

Thanks for that Strik3r. I'll have a play around with it and if it all goes pear shaped I'll reset it and book it on for a dyno tune. I suppose I am just a diehard DIY'r...

OK...an update of the work in progress..... Innovate Wideband Oxygen sensor installed, plugs now 0.8mm, coil packs removed and taped / siliconed up (temporary fix until I get Splitfires) - car definately drives better, pulls alot harder, but still hesitates / misses around 5000 rpm+. So....I bought a second hand SAFC NEO - I know that it's not ideal, but I am making do for now, until I can afford an EMU or PFC etc. I initially thought the solution would be simple - lean the top end out - as when it does miss/backfire the A/F ratio goes down to the high 9s! BUT then I met up with a guy who has an SR20 at a cruise recently who said that if the spark is still getting blown out due to the coils / ignitor / spark plugs not working properly, then the Wideband would read rich, as alot of unburnt fuel is in the exhaust system (makes sense), and that if I lean it out with the SAFC, then it may in fact run too lean - any thoughts on this?? Do I not tune the SAFC (just monitoring at the moment) and get new plugs, coils, ignitor etc., or should I try and lean it out and see what happens? Thanks! Pete (confused....)

Thanks Strik3r - are these conservative A/F ratios or are they "right on the edge" so to speak? Should I run it a bit richer to be on the safe side? Quricha - I have downloaded both manuals from the Apexi Website, and used them to wire the NEO as well as complete the initial settings. I know how to adjust the cells etc., just wan't sure what A/F ratios I should be aiming for... Thanks for you help so far! Pete

Hey Guys, I have recently bought and installed and SAFC NEO and was planning to have a shot at tuning it. I have an Innovate Wideband Oxygen Sensor already installed and will be working with this to get the correct A/F ratios. I have searched the forums but can’t seem to find ideal A/F ratios for a Series 1 RB25DET from an R33. Other relevant mods are: FMIC Pod Manual Boost Controller set to 10 PSI Turbo Back 3” Exhaust Copper Plugs gapped to 0.8mm I suppose I really just need an idea of desired A/F ratios in differing circumstances such as: Cruising Under load WOT low revs WOT medium revs WOT high revs etc. I did try and search but couldn’t pull up anything – if this has been discussed please link me to the page. Thanks, Pete

Thanks for the suggestion Rhys. Nissan was very helpful and ordered in two in for me, but they were both the wrong type (they were used in different parts of the door mechanism). They then took down my chasis, model number etc. and put it into their computer...as far as they could see it comes as part of the handle assembly, and is not a separate item So....Kev (kevr32gtst), I am wondering if you have the correct one can I buy one of you please? I have nearly finished up my door repair, and would like my handle to work again... Thanks, Pete

Thanks Rhys...I've got tom off so I'll head out to Nissan as well on my run... Cheers, Pete

Ok, cool...thanks for the help...I'll follow up on the advice! Peter

Thanks Gazza I'll give them a call...... What is KYP xtc? Thanks for your help! Peter

Hi Everyone! In the process of doing a DIY door repair (panel beat, bog, sand, paint etc.) due to a recent car park incident whilst I was away from my car (no note left etc of course!). So I have taken all the door apart (it's the passenger door on a R33 Coupe BTW), and went to remove the handle - SNAP - broke the orange plastic clip which holds the door handle to the rod, which operates the door latch.... ....without this you can't open the door from the outside! I think second hand ones from the wreckers are out, as the plastic is so brittle, when you try and prise them out, they also break... Can anyone recommend a place to get new ones? Such a little piece of plastic, but yet so important! I have included two photos for viewing pleasure! Thanks, Peter

Sorry for late reply mate, been off working.... Yeah, it does go back into the intake pipe....I was toying with the idea of blocking it off with one of those little breather-filter things, but was worried about getting fumes and a light spraying of oil around the engine bay, as some people reckon they get. I am hoping that the blow-by is slowed enough by the baffles (stocking filled with stainless scrubbers), to drop the oil out and then flow back into the system... Pete

Hmmmm....I'll get onto this weekend then... Cheers, Pete

Hey, I've got the same problem and it's been bugging me for years.... Just a quick question, besides the fuel smell is there anything bad that can happen with the tank not pressurising? Thanks, Peter

True, but at the time I didn't know better. BTW they were empty when I got them, but after reading the extensive posts from Sydneykid etc. on catch cans, they are now both baffled with stockings filled with stainless steel scrapers....quality stuff....lol....

Hi, Simple set maybe of interest to you? I got given a catch can with 10mm piping but had already ordered in a GReddy from Nengun with 15mm piping, so rather than relocating the PCV etc. to try and make one can cover both sides of the PCV, I used the two cans. Both of them bolted up quite easily, with the use of some L-brackets from Bunnings. Pete

Thanks for the help! Took it back and they connected it to a big ass battery tester and charger, which then printed me out a little receipt saying "Warranty invalid, extremely discharged, user abuse." I saw the voltage of the battery on the screen - 2.1V - which is pretty low! BUT, they are following it up for me with the company that makes the batteries, as they said they will sometimes come to the warranty party...so I'll see what happens... I must have a continuos small discharge somewhere in my car, as from what I understand, large discharges such as amps will flatten batteries, but small continuos discharges will really kill them over the long run....wonder what it could be? Pete

Thanks for the replies! Took the battery out and checked the water levels - all good. Stuck the charger on, still nothing....the battery has one of those little circles you look through with a legend next to it - green = OK; red = water low; black = ! (return to shop)....mine is black so I think it's stuffed. Well at least it's only 12 months old, and has a warranty of 3 years.....I'll take it back tommorrow.... Cheers, Peter

No rgr34, battery's completely dead, nothing works! Ok blind elk, I'll give this a shot and post up what happens... Thanks, Peter

Hi Everyone, I have had my Skyline (R33) at the back of my girlfriend's house for the past six months. Driving it occassionally, and keeping the battery charged through the use of an automatic battery charger (Projecta 4300 I think), which charges then maintains. Wanted to move the Skyline today, went out and battery was flat (this is a 12 month old battery BTW). So I went to stick the charger on it for a while, and the charger showed power, but no connection for charging (battery is in the boot, and I connect the charger positive to the battery terminal +, and charger earth to where the ground wire meets the chasis). So then I try and connect the charger directly to the battery terminals - still no connection, but power is going through the charger (power light on). I then try and connect the charger to the jump start terminals in the engine bay - still no good! So I assume the charger is buggered. Take the charger out and plug it into my old MQ Patrol - all lights up and starts charging the Patrol?? What am I missing? Is there a fuse that is responsible? Is the battery that buggered it won't charge even when connected directly?? Any help would be muchly appreciated.... Thanks! Peter

Thanks Everyone, QWK 32 - At the moment I am running a standard ECU - Series 1. PSI Parts - thanks for that, one less thing to worry about! MunkybOy - thanks for that also, I suppose then, in manufacture they link up the auto ones, and leave the manual ones blank like yours and mine... Thanks for all your help! Pete

Hi! Couple of questions.... 1. I've just installed a catch can and couldn't get appropriate 15mm piping, so I used 16mm instead (was imperial sizing but converts to approximately 16mm - you can see the red piping in the JPEG "My Engine Bay" attached to this post...). My qestion is how much pressure are the blow-by gasses under? I have tightened the clamps as much as I think they should go, but is it that pressurised that it will still seep out, as it is the wrong sized piping? 2. In the first JPEG (my engine bay) I have circled a plug (grey one), which is attached to the throttle body, but has nothing going into it? I have attached two other engine bays pics, I found within these forums, with second having both a brown and grey plug connected, and the third only having a grey plug (like mine), but it is connected, whereas mine isn't?? What shoud I do? Is this of concern? Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks! Pete

PM Sent....

PM Sent!!

OK...cool....thanks GeeTR. I think that mounting the sensor in the factory position wont be feasible then, as there is lack of airlfow around that area to adequately cool the heatsink....whereas in the exhaust under the car (or something) there would be alot more airflow...so I might install it there, with a heatsink as well. r33cruiser, I am wanting to eliminate the stock narrow band completely by installing the wideband. The factory narrow band is not accurate as it only reports 14:1, rich or lean. A wideband sensor tells you exactly what the ratio is. The Innovate Wideband can simulate a narrow band (for factory ECU purposes), output to a A/F Guage (wideband accuracy), as well as output to an E-Manage Ultimate, which can use this output to attempt to reach a target A/F Ratio (from what I understand). Thanks for the information on the wiring however, as this will make it easy for me to tap into, as the Innovate will put it's "narrow band signal" through these wires. Peter

Thanks GeeTR, I had a look at the mounting options down the dump pipe and it seems quite easy to do - that's one option. But, if I were to pursue the stock mounting location, and put a heatsink in, do you think this would be ok, as in would the heatsink be able to keep the sensor cool enough? Also, do I need to buy the heatsink from Innovate, or where can I grab cheaper "commonly available heatsinks"? Thanks, Peter