Peter

Hi Guys, Sorry to bring this old thread out from the dead, but........ I just purchsed an Innovate LC-1 with a DB Gauge Wideband Oxygen Sensor. I am going to run the Innovate to output three signals for me. The first will be to the gauge and will be displaying the A/F Ratio in real time. The second will be to an EMU for tuning purposes. The third will be to the factory ECU - the Innovate can wire into, and simulate a narrow band sensor,rom what I have read.... What I am wondering is whether I can simply unscrew the factory narrowband sensor from the dump pipe and replace it with the Innovate Wideband? I am wondering if this is ok, as the Innovate says that the "maximum temperature at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500 C (900 F)". Would the temperature at the dump pipe exceed this, or is it safe to assume that because the factory narrow band is located there, the wideband would be fine? Apologies for long explanation. Thanks in advance, Pete

Hi, Can anyone tell me what the correct size piping is too fit onto an RB25DET please? Is it 9mm, 15mm, or 19mm. I know that Toyotas and Evos use 9mm, and S13,14,15s use 15mm - do Skylines follow suite and use 15mm as well? Thanks, Peter

Hi, Love those installs and about to do mine, but the piping that came with the can is too small! Was looking on Nengun and there seems to be piping options of three sizes - 9mm, 15mm, and 19mm - which is the right size? Thanks! Peter

Thanks Aif, I followed the links to the threads and now know how to change the plugs and tape / silicon the coils (cheers mcdoof) - it doesn't look too difficult at all, just a bit cumbersome... But I do want an aftermarket unit to help better manage the engine, and I am still trying to decide between the SAFC-NEO and E-Manage Ultimate...for the current situation (and future mods if I decide to go down that path), which one do you think is better? I am asking this as I know very little about engine management systems.... Can anyone offer advice? I have heard you can get to the stage with the SAFC when it really can't help anymore?? Thanks, Peter

Could anyone point me to a thread that takes you through changing the Spark Plugs in a R33....I have searched, and only found the following, which doesn't load... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...mp;postcount=41 Thanks, Pete

Cool, thanks....anyone got a picture of a coil? Cheers, Pete

Motoman - what do you use to tape the coils? (Sorry if this is a stupid question...) Thanks, Pete

Thanks for the advice Tails Tails, but I've decided to not go the bandaid solution and fix this problem (and possible future problems) once and for all.....so is which is better - an E-Manage Ultimate or SAFC-NEO?? Cheers, Peter

Hey Guys, Thanks for all the replies! Sorry been away for a while, been really busy at work, and moving house atm..... OK, once things settle down for me I'll try the following...hopefully the plugs do the job.... 1. Regap / buy new plugs that are 0.8mm. 2.Check for vacuum leaks. 3. Coil Packs. 4. Fuel Pump. Also, I am very intersted in getting a aftermarket engine management, as nearly everyone has suggested, and after looking at Nengun, have found that they are not really THAT expensive.....I am trying to choose between an E-Manage Ultimate and SAFC-NEO....for the current situation (and future mods if I decide to go down that path), which one do you think is better? I am asking this as I know very little about engine management systems.... Thanks, Pete

Ok, cool...thanks for the additional info VB, sevenangry, and evil weevil....I'll definately look at the plugs as numer one priority (hope that's all it is!)..(BTW thanks for the reference number for the plugs sevenangry). Hopefully this wont lead me down the path of replacing coil packs or the fuel pump....so I'll sort the plugs out first and see what happens... I'll definately consider an aftermarket engine management in the future as well, evil weevil and sevenangry - once funds permit.... Pete

Thanks axe s and tridentt150v...I'll regap the plugs using feeler gauges to .8mm or .7mm and see if it makes a difference.... race snooze I didn't get the car retuned, nor am I using a SAFC, I only reset the ECU - should I be considering these options for such low level mods?? Thanks, Pete

Hey everyone, I’m a bit perplexed…. Have had the Skyline (Series 1 R33 GTS 25t) for about six years now…came with a 3inch cat back exhaust system….was running well….in the last six months I have done the following…. Full 3 inch exhaust system Greddy V-Spec FMIC Apexi Pod Filter Apexi Mechanical Boost Gauge Turbotech Manual Boost Controller (the eBay one). After I installed the exhaust, intercooler, and pod, I noticed that when flat out accelerating, in 3gear, a slight hesitation (miss??) around 5000rpm would occur – boost was at 7lbs (0.4Bar). This would happen intermittently, in cold and warm weather. Just recently installed the Turbotech Manual Boost Controller and increased the boost to 10lbs (0.7 Bar) and this hesitation (miss(?) with a backfire) was more pronounced at the same RPM – around 5000. Took the car out today on the highway and gave it flat to the floor acceleration from a standing start in 1, 2, 3, 4 gear, and it seemed to backfire when it reached the higher revs (above 4000rpm), making popping noises out of the exhaust, and surging forwards – it would lose power with every pop, then pick up again….so I stopped this very quickly, and drove it home, off boost, and it ran fine. It also runs fine when accelerating hard at low rpm, but as soon as it gets to around 4000 - 5000rpm+ it seems to miss and backfire – can’t hear any pinging though? I have read on these forums that re-gapping the spark plugs to .8mm may help when turning up the boost (as they are 1.1mm stock I think), so I’ll probably buy some new plugs with the smaller gap, but was wondering if it could be anything else? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Pete PS: I reset the ECU after every modification as suggested in other threads.

Hmmm..... I went from an Apexi Pod Filter (CAI with heat shield) and full 3 inch exhaust, and then solely added a GReddy V-Spec FMIC with no furthering mods - lag seemed less, and car "felt" like it pulled alot harder (running standard boost). No stats to back it up, just the feeling after driving the car for four years prior....?? Maybe it's the fact I have a large shiny thing hanging down the front now??

Hi! Can anyone tell me where I can buy an Apexi EL2 Boost Gauge Psi in Australia? I have searched and enquired with Nengun and Greenline, and they only stock the kPa versions. I have found alot in the US, but I'm not sure how safe the on-line stores are, and compared to Nengun / Greenline, they are very expensive to buy the item, as well as being pricey for the postage to Perth. Any help would be appreciated. Peter

Hey Guys, Thanks for the prompt replies...I'll take into consideration the advice given, and the size of my wallet, and see where it leads me.... Thanks again for all your help! Pete

Hi! I am going to buy an electric boost gauge for my car, and have narrowed it down (due to financial reasons) to either an Autogauge Shadow Boost Gauge 60mm, for $75.00 AUD, or an Autometer 3301 Gauge for $143.00 AUD. I was wondering if anyone has used, or heard of the above mentioned brands/guages, in terms of reliability, accuracy etc., or if anyone can give me any other brands that are better, and around the same price? Thanks for your help! Pete

Thanks alot Lazy-Bastard & colgf, I'll give it a go and see how it goes......I am worried though as Haynes Manuals normally start with "Simply remove....." which often turns out to be a massive job! Apologies for my stupidity by what is the reo? Cheers Pete

Hi! I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to remove the front bar off an R33 Series 1? I have searched the forums and found instructions for the Series 2, but not 1..... Also, I will be installing a FMIC, so if anyone has any hints or tips it would be much appreciated. Thanks Pete

Thanks for the advice everyone ....based on what you said, I will have a bit more of a look at the coolers and different options available....I'll search for that thread on nengun and see what is says..... Michael, you said "remeber you got the vspl kit which has a tube and fine cooler, the m-spec uses a bar and plate and the core is very similar if not the same as the china spec core" Is a tube and fin cooler better than a bar and plate cooler?? The tube and fin coolers seem to be more expensive in general, but do they perform any better?

Thanks for the prompt advice In between checking for replies I was searching the net for prices and come across these web site... http://www.nengun.com Alot of things, including the branded intercoolers appear to significantly cheaper than say modyourcar, as Onthehunt suggested ($880 compared to $430 for the M-Spec!)...Has anyone had any dealings with them before? I'll check the sponsors too, thanks for the suggestion MMM Cheers, Pete

Hi! Searched the forums but couldn't find any comments on this particular cooler.... Is a Greddy Spec-M Intercooler any good for an R33 with an RB25DET? Here is a link to one.... http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=5101 Or do you have any other suggestions for FMIC kits around the same price? Thanks! Pete

No problems Brad, thanks for the advice! I'll start up another thread. Cheers, Pete

Hi! Does anyone know whether a Greddy Spec-M Intercooler is any good or should I also go with a Hybrid, as I have seen these around on eBay etc. and was thinking of getting one for my R33 RB25DET? http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=5101 Thanks! Pete