Nismo34R

Okay guys so a little update! My hunch about the low radiator level was right. I headed to my mechanic today and got him to do a pressure test on my cooling system and low and behold I sprung 2 leaks! The first leak which was minor was the radiator drain plug was slightly loose and the rubber deal was gone. After a minute under pressure we counted a mere 10 drops.. That was all sorted and under pressure stopped leaking.. The second leak which was the more major leak was the throttle body bypass hose.. Which would explain the high idle! The clamp was not on and when the hose would heat up it would expand causing the leak which was like a tap trinkling water when a rubber washer is gone. The clamp was fitted properly back over the fitting, we re-bled the system just incase I incorrectly bled the system, added a little more coolant and all was good! The car is holding tempreture perfectly, idling beautiful and all seems well so far! If I run into any issues I will repost. I just thought I'd post up the result for any future references. Thanks to everyone for posting replies!

Hey breaker I fitted a genuine Nissan pump! I just bled the radiator and there was a lot of air in the system.. But my radiator level was low aswell ! I might do a pressure test on the radiator/ cooling system just to make sure a welch plug or the water feed line on the turbo or thermostat housing etc isn't leaking. Anyone have a pressure test kit in Sydney? I'm happy to pay you of course!

Ben, that could be it! Quite an easy and simple fix..

89cal it slowly rises and stops just below 3/4 whilst the idling high. Then once the idle settles it drops quite quickly back to just below the half way point where it should be.. It really has me stumped!

The water pump is 18 months old aswell so it surely can't be that? Same as the radiator and hoses!

89cal it's a factory ecu with a SAFC 2!

G'day Everyone.. First happened Yesterday then it just happened again tonight! So yesterday sitting in traffic my idle jumped randomly from the usual 750 up to 1100/1200. I jabbed the throttle to see if my throttle body/cable was sticking. After the jab on the throttle it went back to the 1100/1200 mark so it ruled that out! My temp rose quite quickly! Nearing the 3/4 mark! I then took off from the lights and pulled straight off the road when I stopped the idle came back to normal and my temp dropped back to the usual halfway point very quickly.. I turned the car off anyway and sat for a good 15 minutes to allow for it to cool down. After I left it didn't happen again.. But tonight it happened again.. It was only over a 90 second period just like yesterday.. Tonight however my idle was up to 1500 then back down to 1100 then back up to 1500.. Up down up down lol Then I took off and idle went back to 750 at the next lights and temp dropped again to the halfway point.. I really don't want to cook the car so tomorrow I'm hitting the tools! I'm thinking it's either coolant temp sensor, maybe thermostat(only 18 months old) or clutch fan? I'm not sure about the AAC valve? I was contemplating a smoke test to see if I have an air leak somewhere but the car still boosts fine.. Has anyone else had a similar problem or have any other ideas? Cheers!

Yeah thanks Gtsboy, that's what I thought.. Of course kinkstaah, anything can be made to fit! I love the look of LMGT2's on 34's. Do you have a pic? I also found this on the forum. Thanks to Shoujiki! Seems the offset is perfect.. Just going to need to get some new Michelin Pilot Sport 3's fitted!!

Hahaha Hadouken! I'd be running 265's as well.. But whether they will scrub without rolling guards I don't know.. I was hesitant on the +38 offset but it seems Nismo recommend 18x9.5 +38 on the back with 255/35/18 tyres on the r33.. See below. But I can't find anything for a 34!!!

Thanks for the feedback guys! 34geeteetee thanks for the offer but if I do change my lensos it'll only be lmgt4's going on! I'm a bit of a Nismo whore.. Then again aren't we all? The rims aren't on a 34 lol. They are on an old Toyota crown I believe? That's why I'm not sure about the offset suiting a GTT? To be honest I thought they would be stretched considering the rears are a whole inch wider then my current rims fitted with the same 235 width tyres. I was thinking 235/45/17 tyres for the front. What about the rear? 255/40/18? Then would the rear guards need rolling? Thanks guys

Hey, I have an R34 Gtt with Nismo S Tune shocks fitted all round and currently running Lenso D1R wheels all round which are 18x8.5 all round but not sure of the offset. Tyres are 235/40/18. I've come across a staggered set to of Lmgt4's at a good price but not too sure about the staggered sizing look just yet? Does anyone else run similar set ups? The fronts are 17x8.5 +30 front tyres are 225/40/17 and the rear is 18x9.5 +38 with 235/40/18 tyres. How would this setup fit/ run and obviously look? Any help would be appreciated! Cheers

Just Jap! ?

Anyone!? Haha After a few beers this arvo/evening over the footy and dinner we think we may if just solved the problem.. Purchasing any Nismo Cluster and removing the 4 Nismo gauge inserts ( Fuel,Speed, Revs, Temp) with the correct globes for the amber illumination and installing into his manual cluster.. Can anybody confirm these can be removed from the complete cluster unit? Cheers

Possible to retain factory traction control/tcs with these??

Hey everyone, My friend and I both own 34 GTT's. My car is fitted with a nismo triple gauge and cluster combo where as his are the stock ones. Being good mates and competitive with one another in a very healthy way I might add.. I might have to get myself a racepak/haltech electronic cluster down the track now haha He has gone on the hunt and bought himself a nismo triple gauge from Japan since they seem to be rare as hens teeth here! He has spent the last month ringing around and scouring the net for a cluster but can't really find anything with very similar km's.. He found a nismo auto cluster which only has 200 more km's then his car so it's as close as you're going to get without buying a brand new one for top top $ and spending $300 for a specialist to wind the brand new one from 0 to his current odometer reading. The dilemma being he has a manual car.. We've both done plenty of research but can't find a definitive answer!? If you could find a manual dial surround to cover the auto gears in the middle of the rev/speed gauge would that work? Or is your issue going to be the auto cluster will only work with an auto ecu? I'm hoping I can get a definitive answer of whether it can be done so that's why I'm asking everyone on here! Cheers, Pete..

Spotted a girl in a white 34 coupe Sky-25L driving into Olympic park as I was heading out this morning.

X2.. Obviously doesn't want to sell the car..

No problem! If you have any other questions just shoot me a PM!

Hi mate, I had the same issue.. If i remember correctly the high pressure hoses come as a complete set and was something like $1000 or so new at Nissan.. Mine was leaking that bad after two days of driving my PS reservoir was almost empty.. I ended up getting the pump and hose out of the car and got my pump rebuilt from the local power steering expert for about $250. The only reason I did this was the reservoir got too empty for my liking so I rebuilt it to be on the safe side. Then i got the local Enzed mobile hose repairer to come to my place and he repaired/rebuilt the hose on the spot in his work van and that was around $150! Pirtek can also do the job if you are no where near a local enzed dealer.. So all up I got the power steering system overhauled for $400 inc a rebuilt PS Pump. Much better then $1000 and no service on my pump if you ask me! If you plan on doing the job yourself make sure you bleed all the air from the PS system well once you have reinstalled and topped the system back up. Cheers Pete..

Pm sent!

PM'ed

Thankyou for the reply. So it seems it is a direct bolt on turbo! Do you mind me asking what power you are making and with what mods?

Stao you have a pm coming your way!

Hey guys, Time to rack everyone's brains! I have been looking into a turbo upgrade recently for my GTT along with a few bits and pieces.. I have done a lot of research across the net, scoured through every possible thread on the forum trying to decide the way I want to go. Ideally I would like to keep the turbo set up low mounted with my factory manifold for the stealth look and keep that factoryish look with a black metal intake I will obviously have to fabricate. I already have a full exhaust from the 6 bolt JJR dump back to my kakimoto oval exhaust. I also want to run an internally gated setup. I have looked into the HKS GTRS kits, hypergear range inc stao's highflow service, GCG highflow and the Garrett GT/GTX3076R All of the above are a direct bolt on except for the garrett which I've found comes in a v-band or a 5 bolt rear. I was leaning towards the Garett's even though it meant changing/ fabricating the dump pipe.. I am aware the Garrett's need a 10 to 14 mm spacer aswell as it will foul on the factory manifold and also longer studs to get it bolted to the manifold. Thankyou research! That was until I found this listing on ebay for a GT3076R which the seller has confirmed they are a direct fit and are a brand new unit with full factory warranty etc etc..For $100 extra the GTX variant can be provided. http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/331086405044?nav=SEARCH My question to my fellow SAU'ers.. Has anyone ever come across these before? Do any of you own one of these? As much as there is the chance I will need longer studs and spacers to get it fitted what would be the odds of this being a " direct bolt on " as claimed? Thanks Pete..

Sorry to hear mate! I started working in and around revesby just before Xmas and have seen you around a fair bit.. I will definately keep an eye out!